⚔️ HOW TO MAKE ARMOR – FANTASY SPAULDERS 🛡️ Leather Shoulder Cosplay Armour / Pauldrons DIY

⚔️ HOW TO MAKE ARMOR – FANTASY SPAULDERS 🛡️ Leather Shoulder Cosplay Armour / Pauldrons DIY

Again and welcome to this next tutorial, I’ll show you every step you’ll need to make a Fantasy Spaulder, and throughout the video, I’ll be sharing additional tips about Armour making and Leather working. So you can learn from the video, even if you don’t make this piece I’ll leave info about the pattern below and if you want to see more video tutorials like this and build videos of future custom projects, be sure to subscribe and hit the notification bell Before we start, I want to give a special thanks to Tandy LEATHER for sponsoring this video. They will be an excellent resource for any stage of your leather craft journey with an enormous variety of leather tools and supplies. Their support is allowing me to take more of my time and making these tutorials for everyone and I hope you’ll be inspired to try this rewarding craft for yourself. Spaulders are worn on the shoulders in our smaller variant of pauldrons. I’ll do a full reveal at the end of the video, so let’s get straight to the crafting process. If you’re following along with the patterns, the first step is to print and cut them out. Once you’ve cut the patterns, you can trace them onto the leather. Spacing them close enough to each other, so that you don’t waste the leather and far enough away that you can comfortably separate the pieces without fear of accidentally cutting into the lines of adjacent pieces. Note that you will also need a two inch wide and one inch wide strip later in this build, so plan accordingly when you trace the patterns If you scaled the patterns up or down to resize the project, make sure to keep the strap pattern the same size, so that it fits the width of the buckle. This design is completely symmetrical, so you can double it to cover both shoulders. Now we come to cutting, just for the sake of demonstrating and different technique in each video, I’ll be using a box cutter razor, or most people getting started, something like a box cutter or utility knife will be their starting point, and it was mine as well. The point is you don’t need a fancy pair of shears, or head knife, or round knife, or any specialty leathers, specific knives or tools to get started. Just a quick tip on this, even if you’re using a fresh new blade, I advice dropping or even buffing your blades, it’s always a good idea to keep her cutting instruments sharp and polished. Just take your time and try to keep the blade perpendicular with the leather, and always work on keeping your cuts smooth and consistent. It’s fine if you need to make multiple passes to cut the leather through. Just focus on the quality of your cuts and the speed will come with time. The next step is to transfer the design lines onto the letter, but to make any transfer work well, you have to dampen the leather slightly. I’ll mist the leather with water and wait for it to start to dry on the surface, then I’ll proceed with the transfer. On a project like this with fairly basic design details, I find a ballpoint pen is sufficient to traced over the patterns. You can also transfer the designs from paper to something like a transparent transfer material, and then onto the leather if you wish because the other center plates will be overlapped and not visible at the top. Also note that, only one of the center plates that will sit at the top needs to have both sides transferred and tool. I’m using a wing divider to create a consistently space guideline for most of the edge of the border. Also note that, only one of the center plates that will sit at the top needs to have both sides transferred and tool. Your designs and images pop, I suggest you carve your lines with those swivel knife. In this tutorial, I am again using the one with the ceramic weighed. The process here as to what the leather, and then let it absorb. Once the surface starts to become bright again, that is usually a good indicator. It’s fine to proceed with the carving. If the leather is too wet, the cuts can be muddy. If it’s too dry, the cuts will drag into shallow. And you might think it’s overkill to carve the edges on the piece, it just comes down to preference. It does take extra time, but it’s good practice and helps make the piece stand out more. For all of my pieces, I like to do at least a moderately slick edge. My preferred method for most of Armour pieces is with a simple wooden edge slicking tool. I also have motorized burnishing wheels, cannabis and dark cloth and so on. We can explore those things in future videos. Or with just a bit of attention to the edges during and after the tooling stages, it can give you a great result. Just use a little bit of friction and pressure to compress the edges. I’ll be using three different sizes of bowls for this project. A small size for the ribbon holes, a medium size for the Chicago screw holes, and the larger size for the belt tongue holes. I’ll be using a hole punch with the interchangeable head as well as a rotary punch tool. You can use whatever suits your preference, but there will be instances where you can only reach the hole with the former. For this design, I chose a peddler stamping tool available from Tandy. It is one I ground down slightly to have a street edge to make border tooling as demonstrated here a little bit faster. The unmodified version is great for back-filling larger areas with a pebble texture. I’ll also make use of the rounded shape to contour the various barbed designs. I’ll be demonstrating a slight variation of shaping compared to the last two tutorials. Instead of pounding a heavy crease, I’ll do a basic pinch mold, and then I’ll add a little bit of roundness into each piece. The effect will be subtle, but when it’s all together, it will provide its own distinct look. I’m just using my hands to work in the desired shape. To give this Spaulder some extra fullness, I’ll be dishing the side plates slightly. I would normally use some form of rounded surface, but it’s fine to just use your hands. It’s an important skill to learn. I’ll be demonstrating much more complex while molding in the future tutorials, so this will be a good primer. The effect for this project only needs to be subtle. The basic concept is to stretch and compress the damp leather in such a way that it begins to have some extra dimension. I’ll use the palm of my hand to support the peace, and press into it to stretch out the middle area, then I’ll also work on manipulating the edges, so they don’t end up looking wavy. Most of the shape from this project comes from the design itself. Now it’s time to dye the piece. For this project, I decided to go with the blue. I’ll be using a a probe oil dye from Fiebing’s , for this one called Royal Blue. Though any color you choose is fine. Just go with your preference. To apply the dye, I use a high density sponge from Tandy. I cut off a section and proceed to saturate the pieces with the dye. A lot of people have asked about dying techniques and how to get consistent results. That topic really deserves a standalone video, but a big part of it’s going to be practice. Also, paying attention and making sure you’re consistent when applying the dye. And before you commit to the final piece, takes some scrap and do some dye test first, you’ll get a feel for it and get better results. Quick side tip, if you work with jugs of dye like I do, it’s worth buying some cheap conical water cups like this, so you can trim the ends and have a clean disposable funnel for each project. For the top core, I’ll be applying a generous coding of Satin Sheen with a small section of sponge. As the pieces start to dry, I’ll take the sponge and give it a second quick pass to ensure consistency and bring the cloth up just just a little bit more. If you prefer a shiny finish, you can go with a similar product called Super Sheen. For my purposes, I very commonly use acrylic finishes like these because when it absorbs into the leather, it helps bind the fibers, so it makes the leather more firm. So this project has something a little bit different to delve into and that’s buckles. For this project, I chose to go with the two inch wide buckle, and design the strap in to go with it. To make this Spaulder function as a standalone wearable item, we’ll need to make the buckle strap that will span the chest. The length will be unique to each person, so that is something you’ll need to measure. You can either make a paper mock up using the patterns, and then measure the length you’ll need or wait until the Spaulder pieces assembled, and then measure the strap then. I suggest just making a strip longer than you expect to need and trimming it to fit. To make space for the buckle, I’ll two large holes and cut this space between them with an exacto knife. Now, we also have to make a keeper loop. The function of the keepers is to just help keep the end of the strap in a fixed place once the buckle has been attached. Same as on a belt. If you don’t want to do stitching for this project, you can also use something like heavy-duty staples or overlap the seam and set it with a rivet. One more new thing, here is a bit of stitching, Nothing major though. We just need a way attach the ends of the keeper together to make a loop. First, I’ll use some pronged pliersto make some holes for the stitching. You can also use an awl or a pronged punch. To begin the stitching process, I had a few loops of the star for extra support, and then crisscross the stitch over the front, and then straight across the back. Rinse and repeat and end with a few loops at the end as well, and then tie it off. Just like in the previous tutorials, I’ll be using double capped rivets in this project. I’ve chosen some brass plated rivets to compliment the color scheme chosen. To begin the assembly process, I’ll start by attaching the strap in to the side plates since it will be easier to attach now while it’s still mostly flat. Then I’ll take one of the side plates and starting from the bottom. I’ll rivet the the center plates to it. Just remember to save the plate with both lines of tooling for the top. Now repeat the riveting process on the other side. To attach the bottom pieces, I’ll be using Chicago screws, which will give the piece a minor bit of articulation. Chicago screws, also known as crew posts, are a way to join the pieces together without being fit tight. So effectively what you have are points where their pieces can hinge on the access of the screw posts freely. They’re also far stronger than the double cap rivets. if you plan to partake in any combat, you might even want to reinforce the buckles with these instead of rivets for example. Once the Spaulder assembly has done, you can test and adjust the chest strap to its final fit. Just make sure you have a little bit of wiggle room in either direction for your buckles. Changes in garments and fluctuations and holiday dinners can adversely affect fit. So plan accordingly. To give this piece a bit of extra embellishment, I decided to go with metallic gold trim for this one. Again, you are free to choose any decoration technique you want or none at all. Metallic trim is one of my go to processes to make a piece stand out. We’re just about to finish the project, so let me take a moment to say thank you for joining me on this tutorial. If you liked it, be sure to share and leave a like and a comment and definitely be sure to subscribe and hit the notification bell to catch future content. I also want to thank my patrons for the support they have given. Every bit helps and I appreciate being able to invest in quality of life improvements like, LED lighting that doesn’t melt my face off, for example, or faster memory card. And, eventually, better video gear to produce better tutorials. Thanks for your help.

100 Replies to “⚔️ HOW TO MAKE ARMOR – FANTASY SPAULDERS 🛡️ Leather Shoulder Cosplay Armour / Pauldrons DIY”

  1. This is incredible. But one question, you used ''little screws'' to join the parts. Does arm movement not cause them to fall over time?

  2. what is that device you use for the lines in the leather? it looks like it has a cradle for your finger (time: 5:18)

  3. Very cool video. Not sure if I am going to get into leather working but if I do I know that your channel will be a great source of knowledge

  4. Hey! I plan to do a pair of those spoulders for a complete armour (I made the helmet, I'm doing the bracers, i'll modifie the right spoulder but the left will be like in the video (except colors and a little carving-thing), for the greaves, I will work on some modifications on the base of the bracers.

    But I've got a question for you, how would you adapt these spoulders to an armour? (I mean, replacing the stand alone strap by some fixation on the armour) a simple strap that will cross the shoulder back/ front armor part? (Sorry if I'm not very clear, english is not my mother tongue, so I can be a bit confused when I'm trying to write it.)

    Cheers =)

  5. That was incredible! So creative and inspiring. Can't wait for you to explode and get the hundreds and thousands or millions of subscribers you deserve!

  6. Great video! My few questions are; is it easier or more difficult in the long run to add the accent trim color before riveting the piece together? And for paintjobs, is it possible to airbrush leather with dyes or acrylics, and if so what brands are best? Thanks!

  7. Been working the whole set so far, helmet, bracers, and now spaulders. For an upcoming Renaissance faire. Thank you so much! More tutorials with pieces similar to these!

  8. I enjoyed your video but I will make an Steel with it always dreamed to be a Traveler in a modern life.
    Step by step lol

  9. i love your work… it is just insanely good… just bought those patterns… one quick question though, i have seen that on a lot of your projects, you painted the leather to look like metal, can you tell me how you did that? Did you use normal acrylic paint?

  10. Ah, thats amazing! Also thank you so much for the idea. This is something I really would like to do when future comes, (cause I’m pretty busy at the moment) and I’ve drawn out the idea on a character! So I appreciate the depth of design I was able to give her.

  11. do you have an etsy account or anything like ebay? i really want something like this to be commissioned as i dont have the equipment nor talent to do it myself 🙁

  12. I noticed quite a bit of dye bleeding onto your hands. How do you stop that? Or were you you just working before the leather was totally dry?

  13. "…and fluctuations in holiday dinners"

    Absolutely hilarious😂😂

    Beautifully done. Ive just started making leather armour for a friend of mine, and with how this piece turned out, i cant wait to dtart on his shoulders! Thanks for such an in depth, and informative tutorial!!

  14. What are the odds of convincing you to do a pattern for beginners? The offspring is inspired by your work, but I don't think he's ready for something so elaborate and, let's be honest, the attention span is not there yet.

  15. Awesome tutorial! My interest levels are high! You’re tutorial is very detailed yet simple, instant sub! It doesn’t help that I’m already a crafter, this video makes me want to pick up another hobby!

  16. The difference between a highly skilled great leatherworker or armorer and a backyard hack that usually overcharges, is an attention to details that will never be seen. It's clear which category you fall into.

  17. I am not a leather worker but I do work sheet steel. I think I will try this in metal. It would be pretty cool armor. OH, great viedo,

  18. Went to Tandy leather today for the first time today and was blown away, thank you for the recommendation!!

  19. Question: If this was to be done as a 2 sided piece (e.g.; one for each shoulder) would you advise changing the front and back straps accordingly and put adjustment buckles on both?

  20. Your work is incredible. Just went through and took note of all tools used, thinking of ordering them and buying your template for a ren fair!

  21. Hey! How about to teach the best way to make a roman lorica o the gladiator armor? It would be awsome!

  22. Love your work dude. I am in the process of making this for my missus.
    Where did you get the belt buckles? I can't find similar style 2 inch ones anywhere. Thanks

  23. wow, this piece is very beautiful, the texture is very real, could tell where you get these texture tools.

  24. Phenomenal, love the finished product! This is some inspiration for a costume I'm putting together to wear to the Texas Renaissance Fair.

  25. wonderful piece and even better tutorial!
    just as a question, wouldn't it be easier to paint the gold rim right after forming and squishing them, before assembly?

  26. Hello im shouting out a company called Myco works they create a form of mycelium from mushrooms and turn it into things like bricks furniture or leather, anyway id like if you'd check it out. ☺

  27. awesome ! note : to make sure have precise gold lines it can be more confortable to use masking fluid above these

  28. Why do you add the gold colour after the sheen? Would it be more protected if to was under a layer of sheen?
    I'm currently working on the helmet bit in this colour scheme and plan to do the whole armor like this.

    A tip for anyone else wanting to so the same: the colour disintegrated the gloves I was using and the colour made my skin blister.

  29. thanks your easy to follow instrustructions and clear voice made this so easy. Ive played with leather before and had some success. but after watching your video i will have greater success!

  30. Haven’t even finished the video only a minuet in and already subscribed, your the perfect thing to watch to go to sleep or have a headache or sick or just any time. You really are great.

  31. Obviously skilled! But also commenting to congratulate you on badass music choice because so many tutorials use stuff that puts me to sleep but this makes me wanna do things!

  32. what a valueable video… I came here to get started on a journey and walked away feeling like I have a lot of tools already at my disposal. I own a few leather working tools but WOW I learned some things I didn't know existed, like that nifty punch for pre-punching needle thread. I disagree with the riveting of the plates into no moving parts tho, instead they should each be riveted to a pair of straps running underneath so that they can freely move, like real spaulders. It looks awesome for costumes tho, and leather does have some give that steel doesn't.

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