1940's Style Shirts – Weekend Sewing Vlog

1940's Style Shirts – Weekend Sewing Vlog

hello everyone and welcome to a new video it is currently Friday and I'm really hoping this video will go up on Sunday which might be a little bit ambitious since this is the first clip I have found for it I've been filming a lot this month and this week but unfortunately none of the videos I've been filming for are done yet or I'm not allowed to share them yeah which is why I'm filming a new video and today we are going to be following a pattern specifically pattern 275 – by an unnamed mail-order brand for the 1940s so this pattern consists of a playsuit which is this very modest looking romper as well as a blouse and I've already made a blouse following this pattern or at least I've mostly made blouse following this pattern and I attempted to film that process that quickly stopped because it's clear I didn't really know what I was doing and I was explaining things really poorly so I decided to just make that on my own time today I'm going to be remaking that blouse out of this jungle fabric and sharing more of the process with you since I know kind of know what I'm doing this is a cotton fabric which I got from a new collection at Joanns it has been pre-washed so it is ready to be made into a wearable garment which I'm really excited to add to my wardrobe I've been branching out my wardrobe a lot recently and making it more vintage apparel themed and I will probably have videos up apopka at some point in the near future too because you guys did show some interest so I'm hoping once I make the shirt out of this I can add it into rotation with some of the other 1940s inspired pieces they have and for the robber I'm going to be using this beautiful pale yellow buttery colored cotton which is covered in fish now I know what you're thinking that is a beautiful combination of fabrics you've acquired such gorgeous contrast making up on the subtle tones I'm kidding of course these obviously don't go together the first time I followed this last pattern I made it from a orange and white striped cotton sateen and the orange of white not really brings out the details in this pattern so I'm intending to wear the play suit with that blouse and then this is going to be paired with something else in the future which I will probably also film the process of making since that is what I do lighting is still okay I'm going to cut out the shirt and show you the beginning steps of making that and then this evening we will make the mock-up for the romper and try and tackle that so let's go ahead and get started and get my fabric laid out you so I went ahead and got everything cut out this is the front panel of this is the collar as well as the yoke and this is the back panel and this is the sleeve you may notice that I've added a half inch of seam allowance on to the edges that's because I'm going to sew the side seams as French seams as opposed to the half inch seams and pinked edges which this pattern calls for I'd really like this to be durable I'd like to be able to throw it in the washing machine the material will let me do that and I would like the construction to allow me to do that too so I'm going to be finishing this beyond what they recommend doing in the pattern instructions so as you might notice these pattern pieces are unmarked though there are some forties patterns with markings this is very common up until the 1950s especially by lesser-known brands that couldn't afford the printing presses to print on to the tissue so instead everything we need is marked with perforations they're a little bit difficult to see but these perforations mark the center front these mark the button placements and then two perforations near the edge of the material indicate that needs to be caught on a fold so you can see here in here and then there are notches and more perforations that mark where the fabric needs to be gathered and stitched together so it isn't too difficult to follow it's just different to follow than a normal pattern it instructs me to make the darts and the pieces first so I'm going to go ahead and mark the darts on the front panel as well as the back panel and get those sewn at the same time I'm also going to sew the two collar pieces together to finish off the edges and I'm probably also going to sew up the side seams for the sleeve though I'm following what they tell me to do instruction wise I'm not going to take it step by step since I have followed this before and I kind of know how to do it so I'm going to mark all the perforations on to this get the darts pinned and then I will show you what we're working with so I went ahead and got everything marked on to the front panels it's always difficult figuring out what to use to mark printed materials when I use darker solid colored fabrics I use chalk and when I work with lighter colored solid fabrics and I usually use water soluble markers and by water soluble I mean like markers that are specifically meant to be used on fabric and to be rinsed out this doesn't have a brand on it but this is the one that I use and we just got it from Joanne's it doesn't show it particularly well on this but I did use it to mark the center front line as well as the buttonholes which I think I'm gonna have to go over with pencil later to make them look more defined and the darts since they are marked on the back side the fabric I used a pencil for them so I pinned the darts for the other side and I'm going to go ahead and repeat the process for this panel I also pinned together the sleeves with the wrong sides facing each other since this will be sewn as a French theme so I'm just going to stitch a half inch away from that edge and then I pin together the collars I'm going to sew all the way around this edge using a 1/2 inch allowance to neatly finish the edges and I might touch it around it too depending on how I'm feeling so that is what I'm going to be up to you and I will report back once it's done ish you you so a little bit of progress has been made I got the back panels ironed and I'm going to go ahead and gather them down so as you can see they're the notches here and these not just line up and these notches line up and I gather in between the notches so this lower back portion fits on to the yoke so that's what I'm going to do next I also unfortunately have to recut and sew the collar because I sewed it together with the wrong sides facing each other and I clipped the corner it's gonna be difficult to rip out my stitching Emery so this so I think I'm just going to recut it since I have plenty of fabric left I also got the darts sewn into this and you can't really see them since the pattern is so dense which is good and I got those ironed and then I got these leaves sewn together and I trimmed the edge and I earned it and re pinned it so now it can be stitched as a French theme so that is what I am up to I'm probably going to gather this and recut this off-camera and give my camera battery a few minutes to recharge and then I will show you what we're working with alright so we have quite the jungle look going on in here I showed you the front panels in the last clip and those are the darts and a little bit more detail I also folded the front edge inward by a half inch and stitched it down eventually this portion will be folded inward and hand stitched down so as opposed to just ironing or basting this edge in place I want it to be really securely stitched so that'll make it more durable when it comes to washing it as I got the back panel gathered and sewn onto the yoke and then I covered the seam allowance with matches bias binding so once again this isn't going to fray when washed here is the newly recreated collar I liked how it came out I think it looks very sharp and I opted not to top stitch around it I think I misunderstood the diagram they weren't showing the top stitching they're showing the initial stitching of the two pieces together from the interior so I kind of messed up on my first attempt at this I guess also I really like how the framing turned out you just see a little bit of this tiger peeking out over the edge which i think is really cute and these seams for the sleeves are done so now I'm going to hem the sleeves they have a one and a half inch hem allowance and I believe they intend for you to hand stitch the hem but I'm going to do it by machine since this has a more utilitarian feel to it I'm not as bothered by visible top stitching I'm also going to use sew up the side seams with a French seam and then I will sew up the shoulder seam and bind this edge with the bias binding which I just showed you so I just tried filming for half an hour with the servo autofocus off so I have no idea how much of that was blurry and how much I decide to include but that's unfortunate so I went ahead and sewed all the seams just like I said I would I also added binding TV ones that aren't sewn as French seams so nothing is going to fray I say is there a thread sticking out everywhere I'll trim those in a minute so the next job after sewing up the side seams and shoulder seams was folding the front portion so the right sides are facing each other and sewing up to this notch so this is going to be part of the lapel and this is going to turn right side out and create a nice little point come on yeah this is really difficult to do one-handed the rest of this is going to be sewn in does that make any sense probably not but I'm going to go ahead and turn this outward properly and pin it and then hopefully you will get a vision of it I got everything pinned and ironed and this is what it looks like very roughly positioned on my dress form but here you can see how nicely finished this edge is and this slips outward and shows you another nicely finished edge and then this edge needs to be bleep stitched down but it'll be hidden once at the blouse is buttoned so really happy how that looks it looks much sharper than it did on my first attempt which is good and those little blue spots you see our water-soluble pen so that'll come out alright so it's a little bit later on and my camera has had time to chart I've also have indeed off my memory card so we should be good to go for the rest of the evening so I followed there's chat that went ahead and set the collar on and then I just found the raw seam allowance and whip stitched it upward so when the collar flips out it's going to be hidden the next thing I have to do now is so this lapel to the collar so when it flips out it looks like this instead of them being separated and floppy like they are over here so I'm going to go ahead and just sew this by hand using slip stitches and then we can move on to sleeves and hems and buttons and all that exciting stuff so after tacking everything this is what the collar looks like I think it looks really nice and sleek and it would look even better if it actually fits a dress for him I'm really happy with the shape at this collar and I love this shirt so much and I love this fabric so much it's nice seeing it all to come together so now we are going to go ahead and tackle the sleeve I didn't end up using some scraps to make some shoulder pads and these are just rektd and these are just and and these are just every time I try and talk the dog barks and these are just squares of quilt batting that I covered and then fold it in half and bound the edges of so they give it a nice little amount of lift into the shoulder and they are washable which is really really nice so they don't look super pretty since they didn't do a great job finishing them I just use scraps but they will definitely eat do thejob and they will be hidden away so you won't see them these are the sleeves and to fit these into the shoulder I do have to lightly gather the top between the notches and we will set them into the arms I you so unfortunately my first attempt at shoulder pads are too small and the bias binding around the edge causes too big oh the lump underneath the very thin cotton shirting so I'm making larger shoulder pad and instead of binding the edges and just exact stitching around them to help prevent fraying without creating that Ridge so here you can see the size difference this is actually gonna look like less volume since it's the same thickness but it tapers off whereas this has a little Ridge around it so hopefully these look a lot better I still have one left to do I'm also gonna go ahead and zig-zag stitch around the raw edges of the sleeves I got these sewn on and I think they look pretty good I did a fitting and always well so I just want to prevent these edges from fraying and the reason I'm not using a bias binding instead is because I think it's gonna add bulk and using a smaller binding like lace binding is gonna be a little bit scratchy so I feel like this is the best thing to do so I just want to do a little fitting with the shoulder pads before sewing them in and these look much better you really can't see the line where they end at all which is exactly what you want and these are placed so the center of them the longest portion are in line with the shoulder seam and the thicker edge goes to the outer portion of the shoulder and then it slopes inward neither just tiny shoulder pads so they had a little bit of structure just beyond where my shoulder actually ends and helped flare out the top this leaves a little bit these don't actually straighten out the shoulder dramatically the way that some would have during this part right so these shoulder pads have been sewn in which reminds me I really need to add shoulder pads to the bodice up there too as you can see I'd have covered shoulder pads I just didn't get around to sewing them in they look like this from the inside and the front is tacked down the back is left free to fly so you do kind of have to rage them over your shoulders when you're putting these shirt on but that isn't difficult to do by any means and you can't really see any of the stitching attaching them from the front side which is what we want so after doing that I did another fitting and we are all good it looks great I also did a little test for the buttonhole option on my sewing machine and it seems to work pretty well on two layers of this fabric which is how many layers are at the front so now I'm going to go ahead and get my buttons out and then we can get those sewn on as well but this means we get to fill out the button box again you guys were very fond of this last time and I actually organized it a little bit so I will show it to you once again tada I realized that I have a totally unnecessary amount of buttons but I will say that these two guys I stacked on top of a box of buttons which was $15 they think and then these are all bags of buttons that were a couple dollars each so I don't have a very expensive button collection even though I do have quite a large quantity of buttons and for this piece I purchased these buttons there now I'm not sure if they'll match so these don't match as perfectly as I thought but I do think they work well with the tones and the shirt so I'm going to use them anyway if I had pink buttons I'd probably be tempted to use those but I do like the idea that the base color of this is green and I can pair with something that is black or red or gold or all of these different colors and I feel like using contrasting buttons would kind of limit that so I'm gonna stick with these I also found these cute little orange ones which I'm going to use for the blouse up there I had originally planned on using white buttons but these are actually the only real button auction I have for the romper I'm going to save these for that and use these little orange ones on the other blouse instead so now I have some buttonholes to sew and I shall share and speed up that process with all of you you you you so the buttonholes have all been sewn and hopefully they were sewn successfully though I won't really know until I get the buttons on and see if they will go through the holes I'm actually going to cut these open and Stitch the buttons on downstairs and then I shall be back and I shall show you what it looks like so I finished sewing the buttons onto the shirts and I can open the buttonholes and I also hemmed the jungle printed shirt and now they are both almost done I'd like to say that they're done but not quite the buttons are placed really far over and it ends up doing kind of janky thanks to the collar which is really prominent on this one you don't notice it as much on the jungle print one since it has a much denser print but with the stripes it's really obvious so I think I'm gonna add another button right there and make it almost double breasted at the top and then the collar there's still oddly situated will be permanently situated that way instead of kind of flopping around the way it is now but overall I'm pretty happy with these shirts I really like how they fit I like how they look I'm excited to make pieces that will go with them and to continue expanding my wardrobe and to incorporate these pieces within that I'm also really excited to make the play suit so it is currently after nine o'clock and I usually start turning my brain off around 10:00 so I don't think I'm in any position to follow their assembly instructions tonight but I would like to get this cut out and then I'll have a head start on the mock up making process tomorrow I don't think anything is cut out on a fold or anything so it should be pretty oh I guess this panel is it should be pretty self-explanatory to cut out I'm probably going to add an extra half inch I'm gonna say is gonna add an extra half inch to the hips because I know the hip measurement is smaller than mine but the tops themselves run quite large so I'm hoping that the Collatz pattern will run large too and because of that it will end up fitting me so I might follow there's exactly and be prepared to let it out when I make the final garment so I'm gonna go ahead and get some cotton laid out and get my patterning tissue laid out and hopefully we can get this cut out as well also this pattern tissue smells amazing I know that sounds weird but it smells like old books which is one of my favorite smells people talk about the new book smell but it has nothing on old book smell it's just like it makes me think of antique stores and wonderful things if you feel that way about old books too then you need to tell me in the comments so I feel less weird and alone so got everything cut out and I'm gonna call it quits here for tonight this might end up being the end of this video depending on how much I've filmed and if that is the case then thank you for watching the video about making this romper thing is going to be up tomorrow so definitely keep an eye out for that and if this ends up all being one video then I've just made myself sound really silly haven't I anyway that is it from me for today and I'm looking forward to getting started on this tomorrow and attempting to work my way through their instructions I will definitely be following the instructions a lot more closely as I said since I had made the blouse before I knew what I was doing and I knew the various steps and I just heard to zoom through them without reading them but I am going to try and follow their instructions word-for-word tomorrow or at least to the best of my ability so I shall see you then you

50 Replies to “1940's Style Shirts – Weekend Sewing Vlog”

  1. I have a little pointer for you. When you have sleeves Sew your sleeves in after you sew the shoulder seam. Then when you see the side seams you just sew

  2. Very impressive but SUPER fast. I feel I'd have to know everything you're doing already to learn anything from this.

  3. Thank you so much for sharing what you do with all of us. I always enjoy watching your videos, from the planning stages to the sewing stages. And, your costumes are truly amazing!!

  4. You can always use coloured chalk on lighter materials. My mom always use pink chalk for marking.

  5. I thought I was the only one that love the smell of old books. ๐Ÿ˜‚ thank god I am not the only one.

  6. แšฑแšฎแ›’แ›…แšฑแ›‘ แ›‘แ›‚แšพ แ›‹แ›แšฎแšฑแ›‚ says:

    Aahh the good old days

  7. Great work ! Fun choice of fabrics, it's really pretty, you complement your garment.
    By the way I like the old book smell too

  8. Suggestion, for new sewers, you need to mention to watch the pattern so that for example the lion on your fabric isnโ€™t up side down. Also, an auto store has a silver bowl (magnetic) that mechanics use to throw nuts and bolts in while working on cars. Well I found one very cheap ($1 or $2) each. The bowl can hold the pins as you are working on your project.

  9. These days books come on a Kindle or as a PDF file. I collect books. Real books. I know that light musty smell of old books. Older the better. You weird? Yehp! We both are according to those who may never see an actual book, hold it in their hands, caress the cover or admire the binding. Spare them any pity, they don't deserve it. We know value when we see it!

  10. This is really unrelated, but that beautiful orange blouse reminds me of Whataburger cups… lol I guess this video made me hungry!

  11. I've said it before, but it is worth repeating: I love these in-depth, informative videos where you work on a single project and talk in detail about the steps. Thank you!

  12. I love the shirts! And old book smell. I have a candle that is called Old Books. It's amazing. I burn it whenever I'm studying. As an online student, that's the closest I'll come to a "real" college experience.

  13. Hi Angela, I'm going to be making a podcast series soon on sewing and fashion during the Second World War in Australia, I was wondering if I could interview you via skype on your experiences sewing 1940s sewing patterns?

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