Bad Vs Quality Dress Shoes Construction | Cementing Vs Blake Stitch Vs Goodyear Welt | Shoe Design

Bad Vs Quality Dress Shoes Construction | Cementing Vs Blake Stitch Vs Goodyear Welt | Shoe Design


[0:00:00]
Pop quiz, gentlemen. What’s the difference between a pair of
shoes that’s been Blake-stitched, that’s been cemented, or that’s been Goodyear-welted? Do you know the difference? Most men don’t and that’s where the problem
lies because you’re out there looking at all this information online trying to decipher
through it. You’re seeing these terms and you don’t
know what you’re buying. So, you could think that you’re buying a
pair of shoes that are of great quality and they end up, ah, not being of good quality. Or you could be oversold something that you
don’t really need. The purpose of today’s video, talk to you
about the three forms of shoe construction and why they matter. [Music]
So, I’m going to divide this video into three parts. Part one, I’m going to talk about shoe terminology. You need to understand the terms in order
to kind of make your way in and around the shoe. Part two, we’re going to about the various
forms of construction. And then, part three, we’re going to talk
about the advantages and disadvantages of each form of shoe construction. Now, throughout this video you’re going
to see some amazing images of dress shoes, dress boots. You’re going to see some dress shoes with
great looking contrasting leathers, with blue suede, some of them are going to be much more
subtle like what we have right here. If you’re wondering where can I purchase
any of these shoes, you’ll see the images up in this video, go to Ace Marks, guys. I’m going to link to them down in the description
of this video. I’m also going to put a discount code there. They are the paid sponsor of this video. And I’ve worked for Ace Marks for now over
a year. I’ve been testing out their shoes, testing
out their dress boots actually. I’ve got a pair of suede dress boots on
right now that I can tell you in the last hundred and fifty days, I probably worn at
least a hundred times. They’re that good. All these shoes made in Italy. And I’ll be talking about their construction,
why it’s a great deal. So, make sure go check them out, support this
company. And while you’re over at their website,
check out their about us page. Guys, I love their story. They went over to Italy, they found the artisans,
they’ve worked with them. They have had some amazing success on Kickstarter. So, definitely go check out all of that stuff. But, at the end of the day, I can tell you
guys, great company great shoes. Definitely take advantage of that discount
I’m putting down in the description. To start things off gentlemen, let’s talk
about terminology. Terminology is important so that we can actually
be talking about the same things. We’re going to keep it really simple here. I’m going to call all of these the upper. And the upper does refer to the leather upper
part of a shoe. What most of us are shining, what most of
us see whenever we buy a pair of shoes. The upper is actually broken up into many
other parts, so we’ve got cap, we’ve got the vamp, we’ve got right here the tongue,
we’ve got the heel, we’ve got the eyelets. I’m going to throw all that into the upper
right now because that would be the subject for another video. But, I will say that this in general is going
to be the part of the shoe that wraps around your foot. Next, we’ve got the insole. The insole is going to be the inside of the
shoe. This is actually what the bottom of your foot
touches. Next, we have the outsole. And the outsole is going to be what touches
the ground. After that, we have what’s known as a welt. A welt isn’t always going to be visible. In the case of a Blake stitch the welt is
inside here, so I’m not going to be able to see, but the welt is what connects the
outsole to the upper. Finally, we’ve got the last. The last is going to be the form that actually
was in here whenever they form – every company has got a different last and that is how fit
is different with different brands. Oftentimes the width can be affected, but
also the length and the overall shape of the foot. That’s why when you buy something from another
company sometimes it doesn’t actually feel the same, but the last if you can imagine
is a form that goes in and the shoe is built and is shaped around it. So now, that we’ve got the terminology out
of the way, let’s talk about shoe construction. As I talked about earlier, there are three
main forms of shoe construction. Number one, you’ve got cementing. That’s going to be the most common out there. Next stop, you’ve got the Blake stitch and
then, after that you’ve got the Goodyear welt. The first type of shoe construction that we’re
going to discuss is cementing aka gluing sometimes called other things, but the point is they’re
using an adhesive to connect the outer sole with the upper. What they do is that they put the last in
here, they put the upper in and around that and then they take the outer sole they connect
it to the upper and they put in a very strong adhesive. Many oftentimes called cement that is specifically
designed to be able to deal with heat to be able to deal with friction and the wear and
tear if you can imagine of stepping on in thousands of times. For particular shoe types, this is actually
what you want. For running shoes, for athletic shoes, for
certain types of combat boot, you want to look for actually this type of construction. It’s going to be lighter in some cases,
it’s going to be more comfortable and it definitely fits in with mass manufacturing
practices. The second type of shoe construction I want
to talk about is the Goodyear welt. For many people this is on the opposite end
much higher quality than we’re going to see over with the glued together shoes. Now, the welt actually who is Charles Goodyear
Jr. because before that what you had – well, you had to actually by hand sew the upper
and the insole to the outsole. [0:05:06]
What he did was he added another part, the welt. The welt if you could imagine whenever the
upper is formed in and around the last, they attach the welt. This is going to be made from various different
materials, but the point is is that you had this new layer and then you would sew that
on the outside of the shoe to the actual upper and then you will connect the outer sole it
was all brought together and this allowed much faster manufacturing processes. Oftentimes it was done by hands still, but
it was also done by machine which enabled it to go quicker it enabled the re-sewing
to be a lot easier. So there were just all these advantages and
it definitely made a more sturdy shoe. The third type of shoe construction that you
need to know is the Blake stitch. So, imagine taking the Goodyear welt actually
moving the stitches on the inside and getting rid of the welt and instead, simply connecting
the upper with the innersole with the outer sole all together with one stitching going
through. That is the Blake stitch. It’s a more modern type of stitching process. It does require a machine. It’s not something that you’re going to
be able to do by hand, but what you’re able to get is a shoe that actually doesn’t have
to have a welt, but has many of the advantages of actually being stitched together. So now, that we’ve covered the three types
of shoe construction, let’s now talk about the advantages and disadvantages of each. First stop, cementing. The advantages are it’s cheap, it’s fast,
and this is how most shoes are manufactured. They’re able to keep the price low. The disadvantage is that once they come apart,
you pretty much have to throw the shoes out. You can try to apply certain glues and try
to redo it, but the problem here is that the upper and the lower of shoes made with this
are not made to go back together. So, the problem here is that the upper could
look beautiful, but you still have a useless shoe. Now, let’s talk about the advantages and
disadvantages of the Goodyear welt. The advantages are that this shoe is going
to stay together. The stitching on the outside there is going
to stand up until basically the outsole falls apart. And then, at that point you can actually replace
it, you can send it off to the company, send it off to a cobbler, and he can simply go
in there and simply put on a new out sole and that shoe you can keep wearing. There are people that have had shoes like
this for thirty years that they take care of and they get better and better with time. In addition, because of the welt, you actually
have cork that’s been laid on the inside of the shoe they can start to form to your
foot and can become very comfortable. The disadvantages of the Goodyear welt, number
one, cost. Anytime you see handwork involved in shoes
and the Goodyear welt built, does oftentimes require handwork. You’re going to see the shoe price go past
$300, $400, $500, $600 because of that additional time and artisan work that goes into building
the shoes. Number two, oftentimes the Goodyear welt makes
a less flexible shoe. So, if you like your shoes to have some bend
to them, it may be an issue when you’re looking to buy a Goodyear welt. Now, let’s talk about the advantages and
disadvantages of the Blake stitch. Number one, you get all of the durable advantages
of the Goodyear welt at a lower price. So, the manufacturing processes for the Blake
stitch is oftentimes going to be more streamlined. So, right there you’re going to see the
same durability, the ability to get these re-sewed. You’re going to pay less than you will for
a Goodyear welt. In addition, because there is no welt, oftentimes
they’re more flexible and therefore more comfortable. Finally, let’s look at the stitching on
the outside. Notice there isn’t any, so that enables
the outside and the overall look of the shoe to be more sleek. But with all these advantages, there are some
disadvantages. One of them being actually in the construction
here, you’re going to be less waterproof because we don’t have a welt in there that’s
tying the upper altogether and adding that extra layer, you can get a little bit of seepage
if you’re walking through puddles which I advice not to do with any type of shoe. So, guys in today’s video, you learned quite
a bit about shoe construction, shoe built. And I want to hear from you guys down in the
comments what do you think, what did you learn, what did you find interesting? And don’t forget, go check out Ace Marks. If you like any of the pictures I used in
this video, you are going to find it over at Ace Marks. And I can tell you guys, again, the real deal
I’ve been wearing their shoes now over a year and this particular pair of dress boots
I’ve got on I’ve worn a hundred times in the last hundred and fifty days. Great company. Use the link down in the description. It’s got a discount code. Great company. Take advantage of the deal. Guys, that’s it. Take care. I’ll see you in the next video. [Music]
[0:09:50] End of Audio

100 Replies to “Bad Vs Quality Dress Shoes Construction | Cementing Vs Blake Stitch Vs Goodyear Welt | Shoe Design”

  1. https://www.acemarks.com/?utm_source=rmrs&utm_medium=youtube&utm_campaign=june – Click here to check out AceMarks – Use code RMRS for 20% OFF – Thanks to AceMarks for being a paid sponsor of today's video.

    http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/quality-dress-shoe-guide/ – Click here to read the article – How To Spot Quality Dress Shoes

    http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/dress-shoe-anatomy-infographic/ – Click here to view the infographic – Dress Shoe Construction

    Video Summary:
    2:11 – Part 1: Shoe Terminology
    3:43 – Part 3: Shoe Construction
    3:59 – Cementing aka Gluing
    4:45 – Goodyear Welt
    5:45 – Blake Stitch
    6:21 – Part 3: Pros and Cons

    https://www.facebook.com/groups/rmrscommunity/ – Click HERE To Join our online Facebook Community

  2. Good video, great presentation but we need a video about how to judge between a good quality and bad quality . I am in Saudi Arabia and it is difficult to identify good Italian shoe, also they are over priced here. I tried purchasing online but due to difference in size it didn't worked well.

  3. I've been on the lookout for some good black Oxfords, looks like I've found them "
    Wholecut Oxford Plain Toe Black Antique "

  4. We do Blake constructed ahoes with welt and leather sole  or other midsoling to which further EVA or rubber sole can be glued. Glued shoes can be resoled in most cases just as easily if they have  leather or EVA soles.  It is wrong to mislead customers. Vulcanized soles and TPR (thermoplastic rubber soles) are more challanging because they require removal of the sole unit but if the upper is in good condition, the shoes can be resoled.
    Bad shoes vs quality shoes are not just characterized by their construction methods but rather by their biomechanics and comfort factors where italian shoes often fall short.

  5. Try these too. The fourth Doctor Tom Baker wears a similar brogue and he's always climbing through quarries and sand dunes and it makes them look so cool. They have the goodyear welt and they're only £68/$90.
    https://hollandscountryclothing.co.uk/products/catesby-brogue-leather-shoe-with-commando-sole-rich-brown?variant=42171417107

  6. Great video, although a bit commercially flavoured. Loved the explanations, keep up the good work! Also, your speaking is very understandable and the explanations given are clear to understand!

  7. It takes ~8 days to make a goodyear welted shoe so it's hardly 'faster' than the cement method. I agree that Ace Marks are awesome (and had backed them before watching this) but IMO the goodyear is the king and it's simply better in every category. Also it's not that expensive when you consider that you can repair the shoes. A $300 shoe that you can get fully fixed after 2-5 years for ~$80 isn't really all that expensive IMO.

  8. Overall this is an informative video on basic shoe construction, Antonio. There is one part of the video however that is providing false information. When you describe the disadvantages of cement construction it is stated that shoes made this way "can't be resoled". You say that when the sole comes apart you can't repair the shoes. That isn't true.As a cobbler for over three decades, I can tell you and your audience that those types of shoes can be repaired AND resoled.

  9. You're missing one of the largest disadvantages of the Blake Stitch. You're literally sewing straight onto the upper every time you resole. This damages the leather, creates additional holes and after 1 or 2 resoles, a pair of blake stitch shoes are going to start falling apart when the stitches stop holding.

    Blake stitch, is a cheaper, quicker way of putting shoes together, its not more "modern", and its definitely not as high quality. Its a cheaper simpler way of making shoes at a lower cost point, and is useful for lightweight shoes that need to work in hot climates. Apart from this application (e.g. loafers and hot weather shoes), there's literally no advantage to a blake stitch over a welted shoe.

    Also a welted shoe doesn't NEED to have a thicker sole, or visible stitching my Gaziano & Girlings show barely any visible stitching of any kind.

  10. I like the blake stitch as they are cost efficient but still maintain comfort, You just have to be a little wary of snow as this could lead to some leakage. Very informational video it was very entertaining Antonio!

  11. I was worked for a major shoe importer. The best man's shoe regardless of price sold in the USA is Allen Edmonds. In Europe Saint Crispins. if you can afford. Popuar Price shoes Rockport or Florsheim. Just because made in Italy does not always mean quality. Allen Edmonds and JFKs Co Alden are the last two fine shoes made in the USA. Saint Crispin is made in Romania.

    www.allenedmonds.com
    http://www.saintcrispins.com/

  12. I know there are three types, but I don't know how to spot the construction merely by picking a shoe up.  How do I spot a. Blake Stitch vs a Goodyear welt?

  13. very interesting i just bought a pair of leather shoes on amazon for $19 ha ha i will check out what kind of soles they have

  14. Telling us you wore shoes for 2/3 of the time you've owned them tells us: you know nothing about good shoes. Wearing them this much is going to destroy them

  15. Hi Antonio, love you videos but I have to tell you something. I am a professional shoe technical support person who is working with different companies all around the world . U just said that "blake stitch is not possible to do by hand" it was done by hand in the earlier days and is still done by
    artisan all around the world . So please don't tell everyone the it can't be done there are people earning there living from this particular skill the have .

  16. As I’m out looking for shoes what specifically should I be looking for on the shoe itself? Do you have images to show the difference between the types when I’m looking at shoes in the store? Some of my dress shoes appear to be Goodyear Welt but could they be “fakes” (the company adds stitching to the rim of the outsole to make it appear to be stitched)?

  17. English made Goodyear welted shoe, can’t be beaten, john lobb, Crockett and jones, cheaneys plenty to pick from

  18. Very informative. I find myself buying shoes for my nephews and this video really helps. I didn't check out yet that AceMarks website but hopefully I will find what I need. The problem buying shoes is that our family falls on shoe size that are small. I'm an adult but I fit size 5 to 5.5. I even can fit size 4 on boys sneakers. My nephew is size 7.5 (but not on men's size). I tend to find it in boy's size. It's frustrating because it's hard finding him a good shoe on the men's category. I have to do some conversion each time I buy his shoe.

  19. This is the 2nd video I have watched from you (the other just going over the outer soles). I do appreciate the direct breakdowns of all the information. I have a better idea of what to look for, but do you have a website or series of websites that breakdown all these features, so I can zero in on a specific shoe? I need comfort and I need waterproof (deal with lot of water issues), but I still need to look professional. I can add inner soles to assist in the comfort, but the "look" combined with the "functional needs" (waterproof) is difficult to find for me.

  20. Great topic and as always well done video. My wife has noticed the quality of my clothes I'm purchasing and so have other woman. The style has refined my look. Thank you!

  21. Hello friend, I would like to send you a pair of goodyear welted shoes, I am wondering if you can help me to check the quality of the shoes.

  22. Hi Antonio, just wonder is there a need to have additional thin rubber sole with the leather sole Oxford shoe? Thank you

  23. Blake Welt is garbage and these ace marks shoes are garbage. They wont last. The only way to go is Good Year, why spend $300 on garbage acemarks when you can spend $400 on Allen Edmonds that will last a very very long time and are man in US by a US company.

  24. I Bought a pair of Brown chealseas and Their qualite by the price i bought them for is great they have a Goodyear weld, great qualite leather and just looks stylist so definetly got lucky

  25. Great video and much appreciated. As a videographer, I do have a suggestion – watch out for fan noise from your lights 🙂 It's probably not something that most people are going to notice, but it was immediately apparent, for me.

  26. Most good quality combat boots are not cemented. They’re direct attach. Everything is put together using heat and pressure when the midsole is still almost liquid. Because glues and cements can fall apart if it gets wet repeatedly.

  27. About the Blake stitch I would mention that it can be resolved to a certain point, the stitching is blind and done with a machine so everytime is re-soled new holes are added to the upper, eventually cutting the upper itself

  28. you only mention low types of shoes, with little protection for use at office and such … normal people use shoes for daily use, long walks, dirt and rain, driving cars… they should be more robust and at least higher

  29. There are so many brands out there who cheat people by a fake Goodyear welt. It looks like its all stiched together, whereas its just cemented, stitch is just on the soul

  30. Work boots are often Goodyear welted, even the KMart sold Texas Steer boots I had in the early 90s were Goodyear welted. Those boots were over the top in how good they were for the price ($30)

  31. Does anyone know what the hot stamp symbols mean on the soles of used shoes? I bought some nice used Johnston & Murphy shoes and they have a symbol in a diamond shape with the letters "PS" inside the diamond shaped heat stamp on the outtersole Any help? Thanks!!!

  32. I wonder if their is such a thing as a high end commercial kitchen shoe? Slip resistant soles and safety toe dress shoes is what I'm looking for.

  33. i personally don't buy shoe online is a bad idea. i prefer to buy in store so that i can try the cutting of the shoe to my foot. everyone of us the foot contour is different. you have to try for experience.

  34. The problem with spending the money on a goodyear welt is that if you ruin the leather it doesn't matter. If you can't take care of your shoes, then save the money and buy a cemented shoe every other year. If you do take care of the shoe from damage, you oil it ones a year to keep the leather conditioned, etc. Then investing in a goodyear welt is the best way to go. Because it comes down to two considerations: (1) Cost per wear (if you wear a $400 400 times and a $40 shoe 40 times then they have the same cost per wear) and (2) the tear (If you are not committed to keeping a shoe in good condition for 20 years then you are wasting your investment).

  35. This is my first time watching this video. I just bought some brown lace up boots finally from Thursday Boot company today as well. I have to learn some of these terms more and guess what, I spent about $200 for a Goodyear welt! Praise the Lord!

  36. Great video but those “dress” boots are HIDEOUS ! Please tell me that’s just a passing fade. Actually I’m certain those are the exact same style boots worn by Granny on the Beverly Hillbillies !

  37. Appreciate for the Information you provided, I had no idea before this video.
    In about 2 months I will buy a pair of shoes from there .

  38. Why can't you talk about something without selling selling sick and tired of these guys talking about selling dont watch their videos ignore them

  39. How do we identify a blake stitched leather dress shoe over the cemented type when we buy a new pair (most store saleslady don't know what a blake stitched & goodyear welt is & they tell you whatever you want to hear so they can get a sale) ? Some shoes they make it look like a goodyear welt type but it's just fake stitching.

  40. I have purchased a Kurt Geiger derby brogue laceup and I'm not sure what stitching it has or if it can be re-soled… Need some advise please 🙂

  41. That shoe you're holding at intro seems to be to fine for any man to wear and yet none of the boots on Ace-Mart suit my needs.

  42. All of this is new and I've learned. Still wondering if it's possible to get a dress shoe to feel and perform like a sports shoe given the different construction, appearance and materials? – money no object.

  43. Antonio! I need your help. I want to find the best quality men's oxfords in a Oxblood colour, for around or under 600$. I picked up a pair of Church Pamington Cap-Toe Oxfords (made in Northampton England) in a Burgundy colour for about CAD 550$ with taxes- but I'm not 100 percent sold on them yet. Do you think it was a good deal, or can I do better?

  44. Again, great stuff, Antonio. Hey, I'd love to go to Acemarks but, since the sizing varies so much what would you suggest (when ordering shoes online) for an American working in Singapore? That pretty much goes for all clothing, I guess.

  45. Excellent explaination. I do have 25 year old shoes. Yes there is a break in period with blisters, but that’s only a month. My grandfather worked in the shoe industry had his own tree and bespoke a pair for me when I was still living at home.

  46. can cemented shoes be stitched when its broken? i've one cemented shoes and I go to the cobbler. and they stiched it

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *