[CC] Flosstube #24 How I Load My Fabric On A Large RolaFrame

[CC] Flosstube #24 How I Load My Fabric On A Large RolaFrame


[Intro Music Plays Hi, Flosstube! It’s Christine from Stitch All The Things. I had someone message me on Instagram, Tina. Hi, Tina! She asked me if I would demonstrate how I
put my Chatelaine fabric… You can see my work right here… Um, how I mounted it on my RolaFrame scroll
rods set. My fabric is really big. My fabric is cut at 31″ square. And so I ended up buying 31″, no, 32″… Oops,
make a bunch of noise… Um, scroll rods. When you buy them you have to buy the rods. Sorry, had to sneeze. When you buy these, you have to buy the rods
and the end bars separately. So, I decided because I need, I personally
want, a half inch gap on either side of my RolaFrame. Because I’ve actually ordered fabric that
was the exact size of the RolaFrame, which is, I think, recommended, and sometimes… You know they don’t cut fabric straight. So when you go to, um, load your fabric up,
if it’s off even a little bit and it rolls into this area, it bunches up and it will
not be smooth. So I always give myself half an inch on either
side. And the good thing about going a little bigger
is that you can always put smaller fabric on this. These are a bit unwieldy because they are
32″ long. And, I did that on purpose. This is a big project for me so I need them. So when you get them, your scroll rods, will
have uh, the number, 32″on one end and on the other end they’ll be color coded. Red or black. And I’m sorry if the lighting is a bit off. I don’t have a good light behind me, and,
maybe I should try and pause this and do that. I think I will pause and move the lighting
around. Okay, I’m not exactly sure how that worked,
because it’s gonna… Where I put the light it’s gonna give me some
shadow over here. But, red, black. The reason they do this is these rods are
split and you need to keep your split rods, the same rods, together because they have
tacks on one side and holes that line up perfectly on the other side. So, you always wanna make sure the color ends,
end up together because if you flip this around, it’s not gonna seat right. The holes are drilled for the other way around. And the brads are put in. So make note of that. And these tacks what they do is you load your
fabric up. You put it over the tacks, and you put this
on. It sandwiches it in there. So you’re not having to sew it, or glue it,
or tape it or whatever. So. I’ve got my rods ready. Now your end bars you can order whatever size
you want. And the size I ordered is written on them. 15’s, but the distance between doesn’t mean
its 15. It just means it’s from here to here is 15″. And I actually have mention- measured- the
distance before. I can not remember what they are, but I will
write the distance from the inside holes and they distance from the outside holes and I
will put that in the box below. Okay. So when you first get your fabric set up,
you want to put your end bars on each side. Oh, I should note the end bars are put together
with a bolt, and then there’s a washer right under this bolt, and then a wingnut. So you’re gonna take your wingnuts off. And I’ll do that in a minute. And then I put these… It’s normally not such a big problem. I don’t know why it’s sticking today. Um, I’ve just got to slide them up evenly. Bottom down. Because I load my fabric right side up first. Um, I didn’t note this right here is a little
magnet strip. So you can set your needle there. Okay. Before you load your fabric up, I do want
to make a note about selvedges. And the zweigart you can see has that orange
stripe running through. You never, ever, ever want to load your selvedge,
put the brads on the selvedge part. The reason is, this is tightly bound here. There’s extra threads and everything binding
your selvedge. So this can take a whole lot more stress and
tension than your regular fabric. So if you load your selvedge up on it, and
then your twisting and twisting and twisting to get the tension, you’ll get a rip right
along the edge. Because the fabric can only take so much tension,
the selvedge can take so much more. So usually keep my selvedge on because I use
the edge of that as a guideline to keep my fabric straight when I’m loading it on. And it is hard to, to do that on a bigger
piece of fabric. You may get it a little crooked, and so you
may have to readjust on your Rol-, uh, on your rods as you, as you go on. So. I’m gonna take these off. [twists off wingnuts] I always find a big,
nice, flat area to work on, a table is perfect. And then I separate my rods. Making sure to keep the colored ends same
side. [separates rod] Okay, so. Then I pull my fabric out and I start by loading
the top. Now, what I do. I should stop and say Vonna has an amazing
video, um, already done on how to load your, your fabrics up. I’m just showing you loading it up on a really
long 32″ piece of wood, but I use Vonna’s technique. So I would recommend going and seeing Vonna
because she puts hers on a, a, some smaller rods and that’s a really great video to watch. Okay, so. I eyeball this. I look and make sure there’s about half an
inch on either side. And then
I put one side on one brad… This side doesn’t quite go all the way over,
to the far brad. I don’t know why that is, because that’s not
half way on. But, basically I pull it taut, and using the
edge of my selvedge, and the top edge of this… rod, I’ll load on the sides, er, I’ll tack
down the sides first. And then I will go to the middle. Now the middle likes to bow up on me. So I have to pull that down, and I will, I’ll
push on the two middle [tacks]. And then what I’ll do is just keep an eye
on my selvedge edge. The selvedge is really cheating, ’cause it
really does help me. And then just press down all the way across. And I can see I got this side higher than
I had it last time. Um, once you put these holes, the, the thing
on, you’ll have some little holes, especially on evenweave, where you did it before. The evenweave holes will usually close back
up. If you do it on aida, they may not. So, just make sure this is still about the
same edge there. And then because I pulled taut to begin with,
I can just pop these down. And you don’t want too much wavy up top, because
those waves will, they’ll um, they’ll go down your fabric. So when you go to roll it tighter, um… I can see a wave there… It’s not really this complicated, I’m just
making it a bit more complicated than it needs to be right at this moment. As per usual. I’m “Christine-ing” it. I’m trying to find my, um, holes from the
last time because I know loaded it on fairly straight, and it was working out good. Okay once you’ve got that fabric on there,
your just making sure you’ve still got your colored ends together if you were moving your
rods around and what-not. And you just push that down. Now, what I do, is I will take my fabric and
put the excess up out of the way. Get my bottom frame [rod] close to this, and
the reason why is I want to make sure that my fabric is going to be loaded in the same
area. If I put it too far one way or the other,
then when I load my fabric it’s gonna load diagonal. It’s gonna load wrong. So I like to get, and make sure that the bottom
edges here load up on this rod, pretty much the same as they [I] did the top. So I want that fairly well in the same place. So this is still the front side. You can see there’s my front stitching. This is still the front I just kind of put
it up out of the way. Make sure my, my, my um, this little indent
right here is about even with the other one. Now I don’t have a selvedge here to make sure
it’s straight. When I cut my fabric I made sure my fabric
was cut straight. And I also have already loaded this up, so
you can see I actually have a line to go down. But, when you’re putting this on make sure
you’re, you’re threads, you’re cross and you’re on- grain and you’re cross-grain threads are
straight. Um, that will help you, just by looking at
your fabric. And that’s not right… Put it right about here… I wanna get the end on, about the same place. And again, taut. Holding it taut. And then I’m gonna put the middle down. Like I said, that middle likes to bow up once
you’ve got it taut on the ends. And then just press down, all the way across. One side at a time. So the middle one way and the middle the other
way. Be careful not to poke your fingers. Those little brads are hard. Er…hard, sharp! Okay, so, you can see my fabric is pretty
well in the same place on both sides. Now, here comes the part… I start to roll these up. And this can get just a little tricky, not
too tricky. I think the trickiest part is getting, getting
that, um, on the rod. Now I roll these, and do try to roll them
tight, like I’m rolling up a scroll. Until I know where I want them here. Now the good thing about these bigger, um,
end bars is they do give you multiple places to, to put your, uh, load up your rods. And in this case, I want as much well area,
as much stitching space as available. So I’m using the two end pieces [holes]. This is the bottom. So I put, I load these in here. And you can see how if you had fabric over,
over-lapping, right in here, there’s no room for extra fabric to be in there. So you really want to make sure your fa-,
you’ve got a little room there in case your fabric has wavy edges. And we know that happens, right?! So both sides… put them in there. Now check again. I will usually like to secure the bottom in
there, then get my top and roll it taut into place. And then I’m gonna stick the top bars down
in there. I’m going to lift the bottom up… Flip it over… Oops, that came out. It’s okay, it happens. Then put your wingnuts on, but don’t put them
down tight. [screws down wingnuts] Oops. All right, so this was the top. I think…[laughs] Doesn’t matter, whichever’s
the top… You get your piece right in the middle or
wherever you want it. That’s… I put some of these down a little tight. I definitely want my medallion right in the
middle. So I’m gonna tighten the top down. Then I’m going to put this back over to the
front and I’m going to tighten this bottom. I’m just gonna roll all the way along. I’m gonna carefully flip this over. Holding this tension. Keep rolling if you need to. And then tighten down right here. Now these will go tighter. There’s actually a little wooden tool, I forgot
to get it, that you can use, but Vonna suggests using like a, a, um, a uh, not “like”, a uh…
a laundry clip. Why can’t I think of the name of that thing
right now?! Mom brain. And you just hook it on there and turn it. I will use pliers sometimes and just put the
pliers right here on the wingnuts and turn them. But you wanna tighten everything. And then you’ve got your thing. And, I mean, [taps fabrics] It’s pretty tight,
there’s some areas where it’s a little loose, right here. I’m okay with that, because this is big. And notice that it will bow just a little,
depending on how big your rods are. Um, you can see just a tiny bit of bowing
here. That doesn’t bother me at all. Um, but just you need to know that. Sometimes I find that if I’m able to get the
split in the rod vertical and have it line up with this [the end bar] I don’t get as
much of a bend in the rod, but you’re not always gonna get that vertical. Um, because just of how you roll up your fabric. So that is how I put this fabric up on a big,
big ol’ RolaFrame scroll rod set. Um, like I said this is 32″ rods, so… I should tell you the measurement goes on
the rods… inside measurements. 32 to 32 to here. Um the end bars, the measurement is from the
very end to the very end. So 15″ here, and 32″ here. Um, when you are done stitching for the evening,
always try to remember to loosen up these wingnuts, and just unroll your fabric a bit,
so there’s no tension. You do not want to stretch your fabric out
over time. That will happen. So every night when I’m done stitching, whether
it’s these, my QSnaps, whatever. My QSnaps, I’ll just roll the, the clamps
in. Um, RolaFrames I just unscrew these just a
bit, uh, because it takes no effort whatsoever to roll it right back up and tighten that
down. Uh, please remember to do that so your work
doesn’t get too stretched out, you’re fabric doesn’t get stretched out funky. I hope this was helpful to you. If you have any questions, leave them in the
comments for me below and Happy Stitching! Stitch all the things! Bye! [closing music plays]

13 Replies to “[CC] Flosstube #24 How I Load My Fabric On A Large RolaFrame”

  1. What do you attach this rolla frame to?? What size rolla frame would you suggest for a 18 x 27 in. piece?? Thank you Christine…LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!!

  2. Thank you so much! Exactly what I was hoping to see. I have a chatelaine in progress as well, and I’m just not happy with my current set up. These look like a great alternative to try.

  3. Nice video! Good to know you use your Lowery with this large of Rollaframe. Mine is about 24” and works with my Lowery in my Lazyboy. I am thinking of getting a couple more at some point.

  4. This was so great! I have thought about purchasing the RolaFrame rods and this was a great video to show how to use them!!

  5. HEY YOU GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL, Awesome tutorial Christine! If I remember to purchase any of these when I have extra stitchy money, then will definitely refer back to yours and Vonna's videos! You rock girl! Ruth

  6. Christine, you are my hero! My just a thought frames (which I love for everything else!) are too heavy for my Lowery without the large frame adapter. I will have to try these!

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