Classy Dame Dress – Butterick Pattern 5880

Classy Dame Dress – Butterick Pattern 5880


Professor Pincushion: Welcome to ProfessorPincushion,
in this tutorial weíre going to be doing a Retro Butterick pattern and you can see a lovely
example of the dress that we’ll be making here. Now the pattern number for this is Butterick5880,
when you pick up the envelope you’re going to want to make sure you pick up the right
size grouping and you can see that up here above the barcode. Let’s take a quick peek
at an example of the dress that we’ll be making. This dress is from a 1951 design that
lovingly captures the elegance of that period; it has a loose fitting bodice with cut out
details at the neckline, you’ll also notice the front skirt overlay that gathers at the hip.
It’s all set off with a buckled fabric belt at the waist. If you aren’t sure of your size you’re
definitely going to want to consult the pattern flap which is at the top of the envelope and
you’re going to check out the sizes because retail sizing and pattern sizing is definitely
not the same. So if we look at this chart you’re going to see the sizes listed at the
top and then underneath is going to be all the measurements that fit that size. So you’re
going to take your measurement of your bust, waist and hip and these are all in inches
here and you’re going to line them up in a column and whatever column best suits you
that is going to be the size that you’re going to be. Flipping the pattern envelope
onto the back, the first thing I like to consult is going to be the fabric suggestion. So you
can see the fabric that they suggest; is designed for light to medium weight woven fabric so
even if you pick a medium weight woven and it’s not technically categorized as one of
these is probably still going to be fine to use. We’re also going to need a sew-in interfacing
and some lining fabric. Underneath here we have our notions; we’re going to need a 12
inch zipper and one, one inch buckle without the prong. Once you have your fabric you can then start
figuring out how much fabric you’re going to need for each item. So the first one dress
and belt so this is going to be for your fabric, and this is where your size is definitely
going to dictate how much fabric you’re going to get. So if for example I’m doing a size
14, here’s the 14 everything underneath the 14 in the same column is going to relate to
my size. So this is going to tell me how much fabric I’m going to need. Now over here you
see 45 and 60, this is the width of the fabric. If you look at the end of the fabric bolt
it’s going to tell you how wide it is. So if you have 45 inch width fabric you’re going
to go with this row and if you’re 60 inch you’re going to be going with this row. So
if for example Iím using 60 inches I’m going to go across the row until I get to the 14
size column and it says I’m going to need three yards of fabric in order to complete
the dress and belt. For our sew-in interfacing it’s all basically the same width, you’re
going to again go across the row until you get to size 14 and you’re going to get one
and an eighth yards of sew-in interfacing and for the lining it’s the same thing. So
they only give you the 45 inch option, you’re going to cross till you reach your size and
then I can circle that I need two yards of this if I’m doing size 14. Let’s pull out the first page of our directions;
now in Butterick 5880 there’s only one dress contained in this envelope so that make it
a little bit easier. You can see the dress here underneath it these are all the pattern
pieces that are inside this envelope, since it’s only one dress we’re going to have
to cut out all of these pattern pieces so there’s a total of eight pieces and they
actually number the pieces. So here is number four this piece here, when you look at the
actual pattern pieces there’s actually going to be a number four in there. If we look underneath
it’s telling you what each of these pattern pieces are for. So if you look at number four
this is going to be the skirt front. Pull out your tissue paper and you can start cutting
out you pattern pieces for the dress, you can see each one has a number and it tells
you underneath what it is, this is the bodice back so again this correlates to the list
that we were just looking at. Now some of the pattern pieces are going to
have a series of lines just like this, each line is going to be for a certain size. So
again you’re going to be consulting what size you are, if for example you’re a size
10 you’re going to be cutting out on this line here. So everything past this size is
going to be cut off the pattern. Now if it’s a line that has no number or size associated
with it that means it’s going to be for all sizes. You can go ahead and ignore these lines
for petite or fold line because this is if you’re going to make some adjustments,
you’re going to want to cut on the main outside line here and you wouldn’t cut here for petite. Next you’re going to make sure that you cut out some sort of indication for
your notches. So here I have a single notch and you can either just cut into the notch
not too far we don’t want to cut into our seam allowance. You can cut a little inverted
triangle or you can do like I did where I do a triangle that’s going outside of the
pattern, just some sort of indication to yourself so you know there’s a notch here because
the notches are used in order to match our pattern pieces together. Here I have a double
notch so I just cut outward and then I just flatten the top so I can distinguish between
a double notch and a single notch. Youíll notice that there’ll be several number
one pieces and that is because they did a separate one for each size. So to find the
size you’re going to be looking underneath the name and the pattern number, this is for
size 14. So if for example you’re doing size 10 you would not need to cut out this number
one piece instead you’ll be looking for a number one piece where underneath here it’s
going to say size 10. After you cut out your pattern pieces you can then start laying it
out on you fabric so then we can get our fabric pieces to make the dress. So you’ll see the
layout on page one and there’s actually quite a few layouts, what they are doing is breaking
it down to the width of the fabric and the size you’re doing. So you’ll see 45, 45
and then we have 60 down here. If you’re using 45 inch width fabric you can ignore
the layouts for the 60 inch. Then from the 45 you’re going to find the one that has
your size listed underneath. So if I’m doing size 14 I can go ahead, ignore this and then
I would just focus on this layout for cutting out my fabric. Now for reading this the dark shade means
we’re looking at the right side of the fabric, if it’s white that means you’re looking
at the wrong side of the fabric. So this is just a single layer of fabric laid out with
its width and then here at the bottom they folded it out in order to cut these fabric
pieces on the fold. And they also give you that clue here S, S this mean it’s a salvage
of the fabric and F means there’s a fold right here. Now this one here is salvage,
salvage there’s no fold so they just took after they cut out these pieces they just
cut off the fabric laid it out single layer, cut it in half in order to fit piece five
here, so then you can cut out two number fives from this layout right here. Now if you look at your pattern pieces it’s
actually the opposite, if it’s white that means its right side facing up and if it’s
polka dot that means the printed side of your pattern is flip so it’s upside down with
the print of the pattern face down towards the fabric. Now when you pin your pieces or
your pattern pieces to the fabric youíre going to place the pins parallel to the edge
of the pattern piece. And I like to make sure that I put it pretty close so it’s inside
the seam allowance so we’re not going to get holes in our fabric that’s going
to show once the garment is completed. So just pretty close to the edge, now I also
want to point out here, we have seven and you’ll see it’s white and then underneath
t looks like the same number seven and it’s polka dot. Number seven is probably a piece
that needs to be placed on the fold so what you can do so you can pin seven right side
facing up, you can either start cutting out or which even better is just use a chalk,
a fabric chalk and trace around seven. Then youíre going to take the piece, you’re going
to unpin it and you’re going to flip it so now the print side is facing down right next
to that piece and you can either trace or cut it out and also cut out along your chalk
mark for the one you originally did because what they want you to do is you’re only going
to need one number seven fabric piece but it’s going to be double the size of the original
piece. So it’s just as if you cut it on the fold. For number six you’re going to have
to read it, I’m not I’m pretty sure this one doesn’t have to placed on a fold, they
just want you to have two number six pieces one right side up, one wrong side down. After the fabric is cut out we still need
to cut out our interfacing and our lining so that’s going to be the next sort of layout
we’re going to look at and you can see here the only have one layout for the interfacing,
you’re just going to layout your interfacing one layer, no folding and you’re going to
cut out number one and number eight here. Next we have the lining; I’m just going to
scoot this down a little bit so we can look at our lining layout. And for, they only do
45 inch fabric for the layout, you just need to then find your size. So again if I’m doing
in this grouping I would just look at this layout and I could ignore this one and ignore
this one over here. So here we have this layout and they are going
to tell you which pieces you are going to cut out. So we need four, six, seven, you
need another six, three and two of our lining pieces. Again it’s the same sort of thing.
There is laying out the fabric right side up down here at the bottom. They fold it you
can see the F for fold and then the selvages and selvages that means it’s the edge of
the fabric. So you are going to cut out one six facing right the right side of the pattern
is facing down towards the fabric; this one over here it’s the right side facing up of
the fabric. Again we have another fold here to cut out this the piece number four on a
fold line and two and three is also cut out on a fold line. For piece number seven up
here it’s the same thing we did for the fabric. So you are going to pin right side up you
are going to trace along the outside; then carefully take out your pins, flip it over
so it’s butting up right next to where you just did it and then you are going to outline
and cut it all out in one time. So you have a piece number seven that’s double the size
of the pattern piece. Now I just want to point out up here this
one looks a little confusing but you’ll see F and F so the folding at the top and the
folding at the bottom. So the bottom fold if going to contain number six, seven is going
to be right on that fold and then you also have four on the top fold as well. The last bit of prep work we need to do is
making sure that we transfer marks from our pattern pieces to our fabrics. So we have
darts, circles, we have triangles, we have stitching line down here I have a small dot.
You need to transfer the ones that are next to your size. So right here this triangle
you have a series of triangles. I only need to transfer the one that has the 14 if that’s
the size I’m doing. I can just ignore the other ones. So what I like to do is we are
going to pretend like this is still all pinned together. I’m going to put my straight pen
through the middle of the mark I need to transfer and I like to make the marks on the wrong
side of my fabric. And then I’m just going to use my chalk or my fabric marker and I’m
going to go ahead and transfer you can see right here which I’ve all ready done. It’s the same thing here with the stitching
line. There is a series of lines but you just have to carefully find your size so here is
14 and then I’m just going to follow the lines up until I see a circle here. 14 and
14 and then I’m just going to draw a line in between them. So you end up with a single
mark like this and make sure you do it to both sides because itís just folded in half.
You are going to do the same thing for any darts you have, any circles and any small
dots. If there is a mark such as a triangle like this and there is no size itís just
a single triangle that means it’s for all sizes. You’ll also notice on pattern piece
number five that there’ll be a series of tuck lines, you also need to transfer those
and put those particular marks. I would make those on the right side. We are going to get started on the directions
but first we are going to consult the sewing information box and this is going to tell
us what the seam allowance is. So in this case it’s five eighths of an inch unless otherwise
indicated. So if there are telling you to sew a seam and they don’t state anything
special you are always going to assume it’s going to be five eighths of an inch. We also
have this illustration shading key this is going to help us kind of figure out what’s
going on in the picture directions. So you can see what the right side of the fabric
is if its shaded; the wrong side of the fabric or garment is going to be white and then you
have interfacing which is polka dotted and then you have the lining which is white with
these little lines here. So we are going to get started at the beginning
of the directions let me just move this down a little bit and you use here we go. We are
going to start with step one and I’m going to be reading the steps and then I’m going
to demonstrate for you what you need to do in that step. Step one: Base front neck interfacing to wrong
side of bodice front. Stitch darts in bodice front press down. Here is the fabric piece
of piece number two and you can see I transferred all my marks this is the pattern piece that
we were just looking at. So this is the bodice front. You are going to want to make sure
that you have the wrong side facing up. You are going to take piece number one which just
happens to be the piece from our sew-in interfacing. And what you are going to do is you are going
to pin it to the wrong side of the neck line right here at the top go ahead and pin it. And what we are going to do is we are going
to baste it in. You are going to baste it starting here and then you are going to go
down the neck line and then across the top here. So this outer curve we are not basting,
just the top part where we have the shoulder seams and the neck line. Your basting stitch
is going to be the largest stitch on your machine and you don’t have to worry about
doing a back stitch. We have to sew in our interfacing because itís not fusible but
it will eventually be sewn into the seam allowance. Now you can do it at the five eighths line.
I’m actually doing it at the half inch line; so then it’s going to be inside the seam
and if I can’t see it or take it out then I can just leave it. The second part of step one is sewing our
darts. So this is what a dart looks like. It’s wider at the end and then it comes to
a point. So in order to create it all you are going to be doing again you are doing
this on the wrong side of the fabric. Iím going to pinch the end of the dart between
my fingers and Iím just basically folding the whole thing in half. So just fold it in
half something like this. I’m going to put a pin at the very end. And then as I I’m
just folding this area in half. My little trick that I do is, I stick a pin in one side
where I can see my line my dart line; stick it straight through. Iím going to flip it
over to the other side if the pin is coming out right where my line is then its perfect. I can just put it in. And I’m putting in
my pins so they are going perpendicular to the folded edge of the dart and I’m just
to continue until I get to the end. You are going to do it for all your darts for the
front bodice. So we have one, we have two and then we have two more on the other side
as well. So again I stick my pin through one side in the line; I flip it over and if it’s
a little off can make a little, little adjustments until it’s going through. So it’s pretty
good put in the pin in perpendicular to the edge so it’s going to look something like
this. And what you are going to do is you are going to sew directly on your dart line,
stitch it on and then stitch right off here. So you are only stitching through this one
area you are not stitching any of this part here until you get to creating this dart.
Once you finish creating your dart you are going to take all of your darts and you are
going to press them down so they are going towards the bottom of the bodice away from
the neckline. But weíll just get a little bit closer so we can show you how I sew this
dart. When stitching your dart you are going to
start at the widest point of the dart so here at the side seam. You are going to do a regular
width stitch, don’t forget to back stitch and then you are going to just follow along
your line. And when you get to the end of the dart you are actually just going to run
your stitches right off the fabric. You are not going to do a back stitch because we are
actually just going to hand tie a knot and that will keep the dart from getting a little
bubble right at that point. So I’m just getting to the end here. This is going to be my last
pin. So I’m just going to run it right off, pull this out; keep it pretty long tail. Because
in here I’m going to take my thread ends, I’m going to form a loop and I’m going to
bring the end right through that loop and pull it and its going to create a knot. You
are just going to do it slowly so you can kind of make sure that your knot gets pretty
close to the fabric. And then you are going to move on and do the rest of your darts. Step two: Stitch darts to bodice back press
towards center. So now you are going to be taking piece three and again this was cut
on the fold so when you unfold it’s twice the size of the pattern and make sure that
you’ve transferred all your marks. So now we are just going to be working on the darts
which is down here at the bottom. You can see one of them here you are just going to
do the same sort of thing. You are going to fold it in half, put in your pins perpendicular
and then stitch on one side of your line stitching off here and then tying a hand knot. And you
can see I’ve already completed one over here and then once you finish you are going to
press both your darts towards the center. So this one is pressed in this direction and
this one is going to be pressed in this direction. Step three: Pin bodice front and bodice back
together at sides. Stitch leaving left side open below large circle. Here is our piece
number three right side is facing up you are then going to take the front bodice which
is piece number two and you’re going to lay it on top of piece number three at the back
bodice, so that it goes right side to right side. What you’re going to be matching up
is the side seam so it’s this area here, and then this area here. So you are going
to make sure that this area matches your double notches match on both sides and this top corner
here matches and the bottom matches. You’re going to pin these two areas, nothing else
just these two areas and on this side on the right hand side you can go ahead and stitch
your five eighths seam allowance. On this side here you’ll notice you have
a large circle between your two darts which was on your pattern piece, so from this corner
you’re just going to stitch until you get to the large circle. That’s because everything
below the large circle needs to remain open because this is where we’re going to be placing
the zipper. Don’t forget you’re going to do your seam at the five eighths seam allowance,
don’t forget to back stitch on both the beginning and the end of your stitch and you’re doing
a regular width stitch. When you finish with your seam go ahead and press your seam allowance open. Step four; Stitch dots and bodice front lining
press down. So from your number two pattern you also should have cut one out of your lining
piece and transferred all your marks. So you’re going to have a wrong side facing up because
now just like we did with the other piece you’re going to create your darts, so you
can see I have one dart here and same thing as we already did you’re going to fold each
dart in half and then you’re going to stitch along the line. So you can see I’ve already
created three of my darts. Once the darts are completed you’re going to press them
down towards the waist. Step five: Stitch darts and bodice back lining
press toward center, so piece number three the bodice back is another one that you should
have cut one out of your lining, again wrong side facing up you’re going to create the
two darts at the bottom you should be an expert at darts by now. Once the darts are completed
you’re going to press them towards the center, you can see one is already done and is pressed
in this direction. Step six: Pin bodice front line pin bodice
back line together at sides stitch leaving left side open below large circle or basically
just copying what we did with our main fabric. So with our lining this is by back piece number
three I have it again right side facing up, I’m going to bring in the lining piece number
two which is the front bodice and the lining. You’re going to place them so it’s going
to be right side to right side again you’re going to match up the side seam area making
sure the double notches match this top corner and the bottom corner matches. And you’re
going to pin on both this side and this side as well. Now the difference is we’re going to flip
so on this side youíre going to stitch from here to the large circle and everything below
the large circle you’re leaving open, on this side you’re doing the whole length.
So from here to here youíre doing the five eighths, regular width stitch, back stitch
at the sides. On this side you’re starting here same five eight regular width stitch,
you’re going to do your back stitch here and then you’re going to do backstitch here and
everything below the circle is going to stay open . Step seven; Turn in seam allowance on shoulder
edges of bodice lining press, turn in seam allowance on lower edge of bodice lining press.
Here’s my bodice and again I stitch the back to the front so I stitch here on the side
and I’m partially on this side as well. So all they want you to do is on the bottom part
of your bodice so both for the front and for the back you’re going to grab a sewing gauge
and some straight pins and what you’re going to do is as still wrong side facing out. You’re
going to measure up the seam allowance which is five eighths of an inch that’s why I’m
using my sewing gauge and you’re going to pin it up all the way round the whole bottom
edge of the bodice and once it’s all pinned up you can go ahead and press it. You’re also going to do the same thing for
the shoulder seams. So I will take this one and remember these aren’t stitched together
they’re separate. So we’ll take the front one, I’ll turn it over five eighths of an inch.
I’ll press it and then I’ll do the same thing with the back. Youíre always pressing
to the wrong side, so press this five eighths of an inch and I’ll turn it and then I’ll
press it and then you’re going to do the same thing on the shoulders of this side so
shoulder, shoulder and then bottom edge. Step eight: With right size together pin bodice
lining to bodice matching seams. Stitch neck edge along seam lines and stitching lines
pivot in at small circles. Clip to small circles trim next seam stitch arm whole edges trim
under stitch lining as far as possible. So there’s a lot going on with the steps so
we’re going to take it one step at a time. First you’re going to take your bodice piece
and this is the one with the fabric and you’re going to flip it so it’s right side out.
Then you’re going to take the same piece in your lining. Now this is going to be wrong
side out because what I’m going to do is, I’m going to slip the fabric inside the linings
so everything is going to match up. And once I put this inside of this one then it’s going
to be right side together. For both the back neck line and the front
neck line you’re going to bring up the lining so that the raw edge of the lining meets the
raw edge of your neck line of the fabric. So if you have notches like the front has
the single notches you’re going to make sure that those match. So you’re going to pin
all these in a place. You can see I’ve already done the back I’m going to pin all along
the neck line. Now we, remember for the lining we press to the wrong side for five eighths
of an inch. You’re going to keep that folded over. So the top of this lining is not going
meet at the shoulder seam of our main fabric of the bodice. Just keep that folded over
and I’m going to do the same thing over here and then also at the back neck lines. So I’m
going to pin all along here. Then you’re going to take it to your machine
and starting at the fold of the lining you’re going to stitch a five eighths inch seam allowance.
Now remember we have these little marks from our pattern pieces and this is going to create
that cut out at the top of the neck line of the dress. So what you’re going to do is
you’re start to stitch the five eighths inch seam allowance. Once you get to the first
small circle you’re going to pivot it stitch along your stitching line, pivot again and
pivot again continue with five eight seam allowance, come here pivot go right along
on the stitching line, pivot again come up and then finish stitching at the five eighths
inch don’t forget the back stitch, you are just doing the regular width stitch. Now this
is only for the front. You’re not stitching the front to the back
just lining to main fabric, lining to main fabric. So I would start the same thing over
here the top of the lining where itís folded and then for the back is easier because you
can just do the five eight seam allowance all the way down and you donít have to worry
about this parts. Remember you’re only stitching the front
and back neck line only. We’re not doing the shoulder seams or any other part right
now. So I’m starting with front because I’m going to show you how we do that one, triangle
stitching area. So I’m just getting to that point now so there’s going to be right there.
It’s going to be the edge you can see I stopped right there and all Iím going to do is I
leave my needle down in the fabric and I lift my foot. So nothing really gets shifted. I
pivot my fabric and then I can go ahead put my foot down and I could just follow my line
until I get to the end to the point of the triangle. So that looks about maybe one more,
right there. So again needle goes into the fabric foot lifts and then I’m going to pivot
my fabric again. Follow my stitch line until I get to this edge and then I’m going to
pivot it again and continue on. After I’ve finished stitching my seams I
like to clip these little notches into the seam allowance for any curved areas which
is normally the neck line. So you can see I’ve done them here and I’m careful not
to actually cut into my stitches, then you’re going to go ahead and trim your seam allowance
so you’re only leaving about quarter of an inch to about an eighth left. And you can see
I’ve already done the back here. For the cut out you’re going to clip down to the
point again being careful not to actually cut into your stitches. The next part is we’re going to do the same
exact thing we just did but we’re going to do it for the armhole area. So this area
here, you can see here is my neckline, my shoulder seam is going to start at this area.
So you’re going to be doing the same sort of thing. You are taking the front part, you’re
taking the lining which is folded over and you’re starting at the five eighths mark.
So not completely at the top a little a little ways down. And you’re going to pin, pin,
pin, pin, all the way to the back. So going from front to back and then it’s the same
thing. This is still folded over, so you’re not going of the back, and you’re going to
do for both sides. You are going to go ahead stitch your five
eighth seam allowances, starting here at the top of the fold line of the lining and then
you’re going to stitch all the way through one single stitch until you get back up to
here. And then you’re going to go ahead and trim your seam allowances, and you can see
I’ve already done it over on this side. So the shoulder seams are still not attached,
all you’re doing is just attaching the lining to your fabric. The last step of eight is
to do the under stitching for all the areas we just stitched, so all the seams for the
back neckline the front neck line and the two armholes we’re going to do same thing,
which is the under stitch. I’m pulling the lining away from my fabric.
Looking at the right side of the lining and the right side of the fabric here. You’re
going to make sure that your seam allowance; here is my seam allowance right here stays
closed and it’s going to be on the side of the lining. So you’re going to pull it over
so you get kind of see my seam allowance right here and I can feel it with my finger that
on the side of the lining, that’s what you want. You’re going to start and stitch right
alongside that seam line. Sew as close as you can get to the seam line without going over
into the fabric side. You’re definitely sewing on the side on the lining you’re doing a
regular width stitch don’t forget the back stitch, and this is what is going to keep
a lining on the inside of the dress. So it’s going to look like that and it’s not going
to keep popping over to the right side. Again you’re going to do for all four areas, then
back neckline, the front neckline and the two arm holes. The most important thing when you’re stitching
under stitching is that you make sure that there is nothing underneath your fabric beside
the lining and the seam allowance that you’re currently working on. We need to make sure
that we’re not accidentally stitching two pieces of the bodice together. Also, some areas may
be easier than others. When it comes to the cut outs in the front neckline, that may be
challenging in order to get into this cutouts. So you just go as far as you can go, and then
once it gets too hard go ahead back stitch cut it off and then move on to another area
that you can under stitch. Step nine: Turn bodice press, so you’re going
to finish turning your bodice so that all the seams that we just created are now within
the seam. So we’re not looking at any raw edges I the seams that we just created, and
so your bodice is still inside out but you’re looking at the right side of the lining, what
were going to do next is that we’re going to press all the seams that you just stitched
with under stitch so front neckline, back neckline and the arm holes area. Step 10: Stitch bodices from to bodice back
shoulders, slip stitch press edges of lining together over seam. Now we’re going to be
attaching the front to the back of the bodice at the shoulder seams. So this is this area
up here, here is our neckline. All you’re going to be doing is and again your going
right side to right side. You’re going to be matching the shoulder seam of the fabric
only, we’re going to kind of pull this lining out of the way because we don’t want to stitch
this just fabric to fabric. So you’re going to want to make sure that you match up the
edge here, this edge here and then your single notch in the middle. You’re going to stitch
a five eighths inch seam allowance again of the fabric only not of the lining and you’re
going to press it open. And I’ve actually already done that, over here, so here is my
seam. You going to press it open best you can and
then you’re going to tuck it each side so it goes underneath the lining like this. And
then we’re going to get a little closer so I can show you this next part. What you’re
going to is slip stitch, the two sides of the lining together, so then all the seam
allowance is going to be enclosed and you going to have a nice finish look which is
the lining at the shoulder. The slip stitch is done by hand so I’m going to go ahead
and have my needle on thread and you should use a matching thread so it doesn’t really
show. I’m just using a contrasting one, so it’s little bit easier to see. You’ll see
here that on the left side and I’m just going through the lining section only, all I’m
going to be doing a zigzagging between the sides. So here I have it in the left side so I’m
going to go ahead and grab a little bit of fabric in the right side and I try to stay
right along the fold line. Then pull it, so the sides come together, and now that I’m
on the right side I’m going to grab a little bit of the left side. And then pull it together
and then I go back to the right. So I just go right left, right left all the way till
I’m done with the whole shoulder. Step 11: Stitch darts and skirt front press
toward center. So with step 11 we’re moving on from the bodice and working on the skirt
now. So you’re going to get piece number four and this was placed in a fold so you’ll
get one that’s double the size. At the top of four you have two darts, you’re going
to create the darts and then you’re going to press them toward the center. Step 12: Pin overlay sections together. Stitch
outer curved edge and upper edge pivoting across seam allowance at small circle on waist.
Clip diagonally to small circle trim seam. We’re going to be working with the overlay
pieces, and this is pattern piece number five you should have cut out two and remember I
told you that you needed to have this tuck lines drawn on the right side. Now that is
true but the one mark that you also need to transfer on the wrong side of your fabric, is
going to be one of your circles up here at the top which is part of the tuck lines. There
is two of them here towards the top, and you actually going to do just the one circle that’s
closes to this curved edge over here. So just this guy you’re going to transfer
to the wrong side. You’re going to take it to overlay pieces and you’re going to pin
them so the right side together and then you’re going to go ahead and stitch them in certain
parts. What you’re going to do is where you mark your circle; you’re going to start at
the raw edge right above it, you’re going to stitch down till you get to the circle.
You’re going to pivot turn this way five eighth seam allowance regular width stitch
don’t forget the back stitch. And then you’re going to come along the curved area until
you get to this end right here. So you’re going to stop at this point do a back stitch,
so again it’s just this area to the circle and then from the circle you’re going to
go up to the raw edge. This area, this area before the circle is
going to remain free and you’re also going to trim your seam allowance just like we’ve
done before with our neckline, you’re going to trim it for the curved areas I would to
do the little inverted notches because that always helps for the curve areas to then lay
flatter, and up here where you went down from the raw edge and across, you’re going to
clip a diagonal notch to the circle and you’re going to be very careful not to cut into any
of your stitches. Here is a closer look at the top of the overlays so I stitched down
pivoted out my circle and then stitched across, once I’m done I’m going to trim my seam
and then you can see a notch is going in diagonally towards my dot and being careful not to cut
into my stitches. Step 13: Turn overlay press baste raw edges
in a long tuck lines. So you’re going to take your overlay piece and you’re going
to turn it right side out. So you have this nice finished edge along the curve and you’re
going to press it. The areas that were not stitched, this area along the side here and
along the top you’re going to go ahead and pin the two pieces together at the raw edge
because we’re going to sew a basting stitch which is going to be the longest stitch on
your machine no back stitching starting here coming up going across here. They also want
you to do it along the tuck lines. So this is to keep the top and bottom layer together
so we’ll eventually be able to do the tucks. So you can either do the outside perimeter
or like me I’m just going to do every single line I have of my tuck lines. Step 14: To make tacks in overlay on inside
bring lines of small circles together stitch. So you’re going to take your overlay and
you’re going to, we’re actually going to look at the inside part of the overlay, so
what does that mean? It means that the curved finished side is going to be to your left,
the side that has the basting is going to be on the right hand side. So we’re going
to consider this the inside of the overlay. Now if we look at my basting stitches here,
these are the tuck lines and I just stitched over my track marks to create them and you’ll
see that they’re made up of boxes. So we’re going to take one at a time because we’re
going to start at the top and then we’ll move our way down. We’re just going to focus
a little bit closer to this area so you can see exactly what I’m doing. If you look at your pattern piece you’ll
notice that at the corner of each box there’ll be a dart. So I have one here, here and here
and the same thing here. So what they want you to do is bring those dots together so
to create a tuck, what you’re going to do is and I’m going to come up put my fingers
underneath. I’m going to take this square and I’m going to fold it in half. I’m trying
to match up this line with this line and it’s just like when we did the darts. So you going
to fold it in half, I’m going to grab a straight pin I’m going to put it right through that
corner check the other side and make adjustments if I need to make adjustments until it’s
lined up and then I’m going to stick in my pin perpendicular to the fold and I’m going
to do the same thing over in this corner. Sticking my pin need to make a few adjustments
over here and we’ll say that’s good. Everything up here on this raw edge, just tack it underneath
so it’s lined flat underneath the overlay piece right here. You’re then going to go
to your machine and you’re going to stitch right along this line here. So from this dot
to this dot over here you’re just going to do a regular width stitch, don’t forget the
back stitch. Once this is stitched, you’re going to move on to the next box, so I’m
going to do the same thing. I’m just pinching right in the middle because I want to match
up this line with this line now. I’m going to take this set above it and
I’m going lay it underneath so now this fold is on top and everything on top and everything
underneath it is lying out of the way in flat. And I’m going to stick in a pin, stick in
a pin make sure that I’m matching up the corners and I’m going to stitch right along
there. Now this stitch the bobbin thread it should actually follow this line right here.
So that’s what’s going to create the stitch in which it’s going to hold in your tacks.
So then once this one is done then I’m going to move into this one I’m going to do the
same thing, pinch it in the middle. So the tuck is coming up towards me put in the pins
take all this up here, lay it underneath so it’s flat and then stitch across here. And
I’m just going to go one after the other, starting at the top working my way down. Step 15: Press tucks down as shown based across
folds. So here are all my tacks all they want you to do is you’re going to take your tacks
and you’re going to fold them, so all the fold lines are going down towards the bottom
on the overlay. You’re going to press this and then you can go ahead and do a basting
stitch right across the edge of the fold lines right and for the basting stitch again that’s
the largest stitch in your machine no back stitch. Step 16: With right sides up pin overlay
to skirt front machining centers, baste upper and side edges. Here’s my overlay. So now
we’re looking at the front side of the overlay because before the last two steps we’re looking
at the back side so now it’s the front side we’re going to have piece number four. So
this is the skirt front you’re going to have it right side facing up, you can see my darts
up here that’s the bottom of the skirt it’s right side facing up. I’m going to take my
overlay lay it on top of it. You’re going to pin you can see I stared pining right here
right along the side. You’ll notice that the overlay doesn’t go all the way to the
bottom of the skirt it starts about right here. So I’m going to pin all the way up
here and then I’m also going to pin along the top here. You’re going to make sure that the double
notch right over here matches at the side seam and then we have two single notches up
here at the top so those should also match in the overlay and in the skirt front. You’re
only going to pin to this edge of the overlay. So all this extra floppy stuff you’re just
going to move it out of the way. This is not going to make it all the way to the other
side seam. It’s just going to get I’d probably say a couple of inches away from that. Then
you’re going to baste so you can start here or you could start at the bottom but you’re
going to baste across the top and then down the side. Step 17: Pin skirt side back sections to skirt
back stitch. We’re going to be working with piece number seven piece number six. So out
of six you should have cut out two this is the side back and out of seven you had one
side that shouldnít be place in the fold. So end up with one piece number seven that’s
twice the size of the pattern piece. Now what you’re going to be doing is you’re going
to be stitching six to seven then and then this edge is seven to six. So it goes six,
seven, six. So I have both my pieces right side facing, move my pattern pieces here.
So here’s six right side facing up, seven’s right side facing up. You’ll see that they
have the single notch here I’m going to flip it. So the raw edges are going to line up
my single notch is going to line up making sure the top and the bottom also match. You’re
going to go ahead and pin from the top to the bottom to your five eighths seam allowance
and press your seam open. And then on this side, let me shift this down a little bit, I’m
going to take my other six and do the same thing on this other side number seven. Make
sure right sides are together. The single notch matches, the ends match and go ahead,
stitch that five eighths seam allowance, and press your seam open on this one as well. Step 18: Pin front and back together at sides.
Stitch leaving left side open above large circle being careful not to catch overlay.
So we’re going to be attaching the skirt back to the skirt front. Sewing at the side
seams, so this is our skirt front again we have this overlay here and I have it right
side facing up and I’m going to take my skirt back. I’m going lay on top of here right
sides together and I’m going stitch along the side seam here and the side seam up here.
But I want to make sure that I don’t get this caught in the side seam. So I’m going
to do is I’m going to carefully fold it back and you can probably just use a few pins just
to pin it to the skirt front. So it kind of stays out of the way. So here you can clearly
see the side seam of the skirt front and then I have the other one on that side which I
don’t have to worry about. Here’s my skirt back this is what we’ve just completed. Going
to lay on top right side together and I’m going to match up not only the double notches
on each side. I have one here and then one over on that side but also the top of the
skirt portion and the bottom of the skirt portion. And you’re going to pin both sides
this side and this side. Now if you’re looking at it and you have the skirt back on top which
I do. If the skirt was actually flipped this way instead of being side ways on the right
hand side you’ll notice you have a large circle. Everything above the circle you’re
not going to stitch you’re going to leave that open because this is where a zippers
going to be once it’s attached to the bodice. So you’re going to start here and you’re
going stitch down to the end of the skirt regular width stitch five eighths seam allowance
don’t forget to back stitch. On the other side though you’re going to do the whole
thing from the top to the very bottom and then you’re going to press your seams open. Step 19: Open up bodice lining pin skirt to
bodice matching centers baste. This is the top portion of my skirt, it’s still wrong
side out, so now I’m going to grab my bodice and I’m going to put it inside the top of
my skirt so that the bottom of the bodice raw edge meets the top of the skirt. My bodice
is right side out, so here is my bodice and I’m going to make sure that when I stick
it in here that it’s going in the right direction. So this is the back of my bodice, this is
the back of my skirt and then the front of my skirt is going to be in the same position
as the front of my bodice. So I’m just going to slip it in through the top of the skirt
and you’ll notice that you have all these notches in the skirt which should also match
the notches in your bodice so the raw edges are going to match. Now you are only going to be pinning the raw
edge or the fabric of the bodice. This lining you are just going to tuck it in there and
keep out of the way because we are not stitching the lining just the fabric of the skirt with
the fabric of the bodice. Grab my pins here, so double notch on the back. Oops I need to
shift that down a little bit, here it is okay double notch because there is two of them
so I need to make sure they both line up and then I have this other one over here. Go ahead
and pin that and I’m just basically pinning all the way around because we are going to
baste this two pieces together. So then the bodice is then going to be attached to the
skirt and that’s what is going to create our dress. We have this opening edge remember
in the skirt and also in the bodice so those should match as well. So you are just going to go from one opening all the way around the whole top and stopping at the other opening.
Now we are just basting it because it’s just a temporary stitch to hold it so you don’t
have to do any back stitching we are going to do a permanent stitch later. So I’m just
going to go ahead and finish pinning this and then I’m going to baste it. Step 20: Stitch the darts and skirt front
lining press towards center so out of piece four you should also have also cut one of
the four on the fold of the lining which I have under here and again we have darts at the top. So
you have two, you are going to create the dart and for each of them this one and this
one you are going to press them towards the center. Step 21: Pin skirt side back lining sections
to skirt back lining stitch. We are basically recreating our skirt back and our lining pieces
so out of your lining you are going to cut one out of seven and then you are then you’ll
have two of number six pieces so this is the skirt side, skirt back, skirt side back again.
What you are going to do is I have them all right side facing up just like we did before,
you are going to match each side of the seven piece that’s the one in the middle with one
of the sixes. You are going to match the top, the bottom down here and the single notch.
Go ahead and pin the full side and stitch your five eighths seam allowance and press your
seams open. Then I’m going to do the same thing I’m going to take this I’m going to
lay it on this side. I’m also going to stitch the five eighths seam allowance and press the
seam open. Step 22: Pin front and back lining together
at sides stitch leaving left side open above large circle. Here is my front skirt lining
right side facing up. I’m going to go ahead and grab the back lay it on there so I have
right side to right side and you are going to pin the side seams together. So pin this
side I’m going to pin this side up here and you are going to stitch your five eighths seam
allowance from top to bottom. On the left hand side though we are going to have this
large circle so again everything above this circle we are not going to sew, everything
below the circle we are going to go ahead stitch your five eighths seam allowance from
here down to the bottom of the skirt because this is where we are going to be placing our
zipper in the skirt portion. Step 23: With wrong sides together pin lining
to skirt baste to within three inches from side opening edges, stitch along basting.
So now we are going to be taking our skirt lining and we are going to be attaching it
to our dress. So this is the bodice, we are still keeping our bodice lining out of the
way so we have the bodice we have the skirt and here is our seam allowance where we basted
the two together. You are going to pull up your lining and it’s going to go wrong side
to wrong side. So my dress is still inside out and we are looking at the right side of
the skirt lining right now because we want wrong side to wrong side and you are going
to be pinning the raw edge of the top of the skirt lining with this raw edge of the skirt.
So it’s actually the seam allowance between the skirt and the bodice here. And I’m starting
at the opening we have here so you would definitely want to make sure that not only do all of
your seams match for the skirt lining and the skirt but also the opening is going to
match you have the back of the skirt lining with the back of the skirt so everything is
going to line up and I’m just going to start pinning here. If it makes it easier because we are actually
going to be stitching the lining to the seam allowance. You can go ahead and take your
bodice and tuck it back into the skirt because we want to make sure we don’t actually stitch
on the bodice, you are just stitching the seam allowance. After this is pinned you are
going to baste the lining to the seam allowance all the way round until you end back here.
But from the opening edge on each side so this side and this side over here. You are
not going to stitch three inches from the edge so with that I’m going to grab my sewing
gauge which I already have marked it three inches. And so right here may be I’ll make
an X with my pins. So that way I know that once I get to that I’m going to stop. So I’m going to start here go all the way
around and then three inches before I get to this edge I’m going to make sure that
I stop. Now what I want you to do first, is you are going to baste the pieces together
so the lining to the seam allowance and the after you baste it in you can go ahead and
do a regular stitch right on top of your basting stitch at that five eighths seam allowance.
Again you are only stitching the lining to the seam allowance so if it’s easier take
all this bodice and this lining and tuck it back into the skirt that way you are not taking
any chances. Step 24: Unpin skirt lining at opening edges,
stitch reminder of waist seam keeping skirt lining free. Press seam toward bodice. So
here again is the top of my skirt. I just have my bodice tucked into my skirt so it’s
out of the way. So remember in the last step three inches from the edge we did not sew
the lining down. You can see itís free here and it’s free on this side of the opening
as well. All they want you to do is on each side you are going to pull back the lining
and then at the seam line of the waist here. You are just going to go ahead and do a regular
width stitch and stitch from where your lining is to the edge at the five eighths seam allowance.
You are going to do for this side and this side as well. And you are doing it because
at this point this area right here is only basted so what they just want you to do a
final stitch just to make sure everything is going to be secured. Once you are done
you can go ahead take your bodice you can pull it out of the skirt and then you are
going to press your seam allowance up towards the bodice. Step 25: Baste opening edges together along
seam line between large circles as shown, press. I just turn my dress side ways so this
is the bottom with the skirt and this is the bodice and I’m just pulling my lining to
the bodice out of the way. I’m also going to pull my skirt lining out of the way because
what we are going to be doing is we are going to be taking this opening remember we had
this opening here. Now we are finally going to start putting in our zipper. What you are
going to do is you are going pin the raw edges of the opening together. So front to back
and you are going to baste at the seam allowance from the top of the opening down to the bottom
of the opening and then you are going to press that seam allowance open. Step 26 is in three parts so we are just going
to take one part at a time. The first part is width stitch across upper end of zipper.
So here at the top past the zipper tab it’s all open and all we are going to do is whip
stitch across the two inside parts here so they come a little closer together. So I’m
just using some needle and thread. I’m going to bring up my needle from behind, and then
all I’m going to do is come over to the other side, bring my needle back up to the original
side that I was on. Don’t pull it to fast or it might knot up there, I’m just going
to pull it so they come closer together. And then I’m going to do the same thing. So I’m
going on the left side, bringing it so I’m coming back over on the right side, pull it
together. And it’s probably better to use a matching thread, I’m just using a contrasting
and so it’s a little easier to see. Oops and make sure you don’t get it caught in
the tab there. And then once I get to the top I can go ahead and tie a knot. Next step, place zipper face down on seam
allowances, placing the zipper stop at lower large circle and centering zipper teeth on
basted seam. Turn, pull tab up, base and center of zipper tape, basting across upper and lower
ends. So this is our seam allowance that we just basted in the side seam where we had
that opening, and I went ahead and marked in my seam allowance where I had the large
circle, so this is the top of where I started to baste, right here, so that’s where my
zipper tab is going to go over the top of the zipper, and then down here, I have another
one. So that’s where the zipper stop is going to be or the bottom of the zipper. So here’s my zipper right side facing up,
I’m going to turn it, so now the right side of the zipper is going to go right in the
middle of that seam allowance. This tab, you can go ahead and put the tab so it’s going
up towards the top of the zipper tape and that is going to be, or the top of the zipper
is going to be right at my mark right here. So I’m just going to put my hand on the inside
because it’s just a little bit easier to work with. Grab some straight pins and start
pinning it into place. You’re going to make sure that the teeth of the zipper is going
to fall right in the middle of your seam line. So I’m going to carefully roll it down, and
pin it every few inches. Check, carefully roll it down and then pin it. So here is my zipper stop right here, so I’m
going to make sure that ends up right at my next mark down here. Once it’s all pinned
up, you can go ahead and baste your zipper into place, so you’re going to be stitching
right in the middle of the zipper tape. And you can either do it on your machine or you
can do it by hand. If you do it by hand you have a little bit more control but I would
use a contrasting thread. So something that’s going to stand out so we’ll be able to see
it on the right side of our garment. You’re also going to baste across the top of the
zipper down the side remember right in the middle of that tape, when you get to the bottom,
you’re going to go a little bit past the zipper stop, go across the end of the tape
and then back up down the middle until you get to the top again. Last step is on outside stitch along basting
through all thicknesses as shown using a zipper foot, remove basting. So I turn my dress right
side out, we’re looking at the right side of the dress now and I switch to a zipper foot,
you can see my hand basted stitches right here, so the zipper tape is or the zipper
is attached to the inside of my garment. All I’m going to be doing is stitching alongside
my basting stitches, and you’re definitely going to make sure that you’re not stitching
any other part of our dress, we’re not actually stitching the front skirt to the back skirt,
we’re just stitching the zipper tape to the side seam here. Also make sure that your lining
is staying out of the way because we don’t want to stitch the lining either. You’re
going to do a regular width stitch, do’ít forget to back stitch. And then after you
finish stitching, you can go ahead and remove your basting stitches, both the basting stitches
you put alongside your zipper and also the one that’s right in that seam line there,
and that is going to open up the zipper so we can use it. Step 27: Turn skirt lining down, turning in
opening edges to clear zipper teeth. So remainder of skirt lining to upper edge of waist seam,
slip stitch to zipper tape. Now we’re going to take care of our lining sections because
remember we still have it open here where we put in the zipper. All they want you to
do is on each side, you’re going to turn this raw edge over, so that when you pull
it, like mine is just getting to the zipper teeth, so probably a little bit more, because
it should be on the zipper tape and not close to the teeth because we don’t want to take
a chance that it’s going to get caught in the teeth. So that looks about right there.
So I turned it about five eighths of an inch to a half inch. You’re going to go ahead and pin this. What
you’re going to do next and you might want to tuck the bodice back into the skirt. So
we have our seam allowance right here at the waist again, you’re going to pin the rest
of the lining to this seam allowance and you can go ahead and stitch it down. You don’t
stitch it on to the zipper, just probably right before you hit the zipper tape. So that’s
all that’s going to be attached up here, so you’re just going to do a regular with
stitch at the five eighths seam allowance. You’re going to do the same exactly on this
side. Once itís stitched you’re going to go ahead and fold over this whole edge. Wherever
you fold it up here at the top, you’re going to continue on. So if I did five eighths of
an inch, I’m going to continue doing that. And then you’re going to slip stitch from
here down to the bottom. So you’re slip stitching a lining to the zipper tape, so we’re going
to have a nice clean finish on the inside of our dress. I’m going to do it here and
then I’m going to do it on the side as well. Step 28: Turn bodice lining down, turning
in opening the edges to clear zipper teeth. Slip stitch to zipper tape and press edge
over waist seam. So we’re essentially going to be doing the same exact thing we just did
except we’re going to be doing it to the bodice lining, so we can finally bring the
bodice lining down, and you should still have it pressed under five eighths of an inch at
the bottom here. So here’s my zipper just like I did here, you’re going to turn over
the raw edge. So that it just meets the zipper tape does not cover the zipper teeth, you
probably want it to be even with what you did for the skirt lining here. So I’m going
to go ahead and I’m going to do both sides, you’re going to slip stitch this edge. So
the edge of the bodice lining to the zipper tape only, and I will do the same thing over
here. You’re going to make sure that your pressed edge is all pressed under and it should
overlap with all the seam allowance here, so it’s going to cover it up and then you’re
going to slip stitch again along this folded edge at the bodice to the top of the skirt
lining. Here you’re going to do that all the way around, so it’s going to look nice
and seamless right here at the waist. Step 29: Baste interfacing to wrong side of
belt, sew invisibly along fold lines. Now we’re going to be working with our last piece,
this is the belt, so you should have cut out one out of our sewing interfacing and the
one out of your fabric, you’re going to lay your interfacing piece on top of your fabric
piece and you’re going to baste them together, and I make sure that I baste inside the seam
line so not at the five eighths but maybe at the half inch line, just so I don’t have
to worry about it might accidentally be showing once I flip it right side out. Now if you
look at your pattern piece, you’ll notice that you have fold line, fold line and we
have a fold line here. You’re going to want to transfer these lines to either your fabric
piece or your interfacing piece. I did it to the interfacing because it’s a little
bit easier to see, and what we’re going to be doing is we’re going to be sewing invisibly
along these lines just to mark them and to hold the interfacing and the fabric together.
So what I’m going to do is we’re going to get a little bit closer so I can show you
how to do that. You are going to get your hand needle and
some matching thread. So thread that’s going to match your fabric. I’m just going to go
ahead and use a contrasting thread to my fabric because I want to make sure that you are going
to be able to see it. So what you are going to do I’m actually going to start on the
interfacing side. I’m just grabbing a little bit of the interfacing because I want to make
sure that my knot is going to be on the inside of the belt on the interfacing side and not
show on the right side. So I’m going to just grab, I’m going to go through both layers
my interfacing and my fabric but I’m just grabbing a little bit of my fabric and then
I’m going to go up about a quarter of an inch and again go down and grab through both
layers and interface and just a little bit of fabric. So the trick is you can make your stitches
on the interfacing side a little bit bigger but once you are grabbing your fabric on the
bottom you are going to make sure that you grab as little as possible. So then the stitches
are not going to be that noticeable. So again I’m grabbing the fabric and I’m going to
do this all along the fold lines its including the short one that’s on the end. So if I
flip this over you can just barely see my stitches this is exactly what we want. So
if I was using thread that actually matched this color you would hardly notice my stitches
at all. Step 30: With right sides together fold belt
in half length wise stitch long end trim. Your belt is right side facing up all you
are going to do is fold it in half lengthwise. Bring the row edges together pin the raw edges
and then you are going to stitch your five eighths seam allowance on the long edge only
not the short sides and not the folded side. Just the side after you’ve finished stitching
it you are going to go ahead and trim your seam allowance. Step 31: Bring seam to center press open with
point of iron. Stitch pointed end trim. So originally when we stitched this our seam
allowance was like this. this is where we stitched it and I went ahead and trimmed it
all they want you to do is you are going to open up your seam allowance and you are going
to fold your belt so that the seam allowance ends up in the middle of the belt. At the
other end you should end up with something like this. What they want you to do at this
point is you are going to go ahead and you are going to stitch this pointed end right
here at your five eighths seam allowance and then you are going to trim it. Step 32: Turn belt press. So here is the pointed
end that we just stitched and trimmed now the trick to turning this right side out is
you are going to take the pointed end and you are just going to tuck it in. So it starts
to go inside the casing then you are going to need a, either a skewer with a blunt end
or a long crochet hook and then you are just going to push it and its going to come through.
After you finish turning it all the way go ahead and press your belt again. Step 33: Slip straight end of belt through
bar of buckle turn back along fold line whip stitch in securely in place slip stitch side
edges. We are going to complete our belt by putting on our buckle so this is a one inch
buckle this is what they asked for in the notions. You are going to have your belt so
the seam side is facing up this is the under side of the belt and you are going to flip
your buckles so you are looking at the underside of the buckle. Now on the short end you should
have done a sew invisibly for the fold line. Mine is really hard to see because my thread
matches pretty good. So what I did is I just marked it with chalk so you know exactly where
it is. I’m going to take the end the straight end here and I’m going to slip it through
my buckle and then I’m going to come back up once I go past this bar. And I’m going just keep pulling it through
and you’ll see once I get to my fold line here I’m going to go ahead fold my buckle
or my belt and instead of just having this raw edge I’m just going to fold this under
so I have a nice clean folded edge here and you can go ahead and pin that into place.
For the end this end right here where you have the fold you can do a whip stitch and
then they want you to do a slip stitch on the sides. This side and this side. So that’s
going to secure the belt into place with the buckle. So to do a whip stitch we’ve already
done a whip stitch but just to give you a reminder again, you are going to do this by
hand with a matching thread. I’m coming up right on the fold here of my belt and I’ll
cut off the tail end of my note later or you can just tuck it in. And then all you are
going to do is grab a little bit of the back of the belt you donít have to do too much
and then you grab the fold. Grab a little bit of the back of the belt and grab with
the fold. So I’m just going to do this all along side here and then I’ll do a slip stitch
on each side. Step 34: Turn up hem base close to fold finish
raw edge sew hem in place easing in fullness if necessary press. So it’s the last step
of making our dress all we need to do is hem you need to hem your fabric in. You also need
to hem your lining. If you look at a skirt pattern piece at the bottom they actually
tell you how much. So for the fabric you are going to hem two inches and your lining you
are going to do two and a half inches. So you are doing each one separately but you
are going to be doing the exact thing so I’m going to show you on the fabric then you could
just repeat for your lining. So for the fabric the pattern says we do two inches. So I’m
going to grab my sewing gauge and my straight pens and I’m starting here at the raw edge
at the bottom of my dress. Make sure you have the wrong side facing up because you always
fold over to the wrong side when doing the hem.
I’m going to fold up two inches and for the lining it’s going to be two and a half inches.
So Iím using my sewing gauge to get an accurate measurement here and then I can go ahead stick
in a pin to hold it and I’m going to do this all the way around the whole hem. Once you’ve
finished pinning all the way around on the bottom folded edge so this edge down here
you are going to do a basting stitch right alongside that fold line. So that’s going
to hold it in place so we can finish the top part of the hem. You can go ahead and do the
largest stitch in your machine and you don’t have to worry about backstitching. After you have finished doing the basting
stitch then you’ve got to figure how you want to treat your raw edge here. So we have
a couple of different options. Now you are just stitching the raw edge. I’m not actually
stitching this top part to this skirt yet. Just the raw edge by itself. So if you have
a serger you can go ahead and serge the end. With my machine I did an overcast
stitch or you can do a zigzag stitch. If you don’t want to see the raw edge, you can just
turn it over about a quarter of an inch or so. That way you get a nice folded edge at
the top here. Once you’ve decided that then the only thing
left to do is to stitch the top of your hem into place. What you can do is if you can
just do on a machine stitch and just stitch directly across. Since I’m working with crepe,
which is more of a delicate fabric and I want it to stay light, I’m going to go ahead and
hand sew the hem into place. So I’m just getting some needle on thread here. Now I’m
going to come up with my first stitch underneath my raw edge its pretty close to the top here
and you can see I’m not grabbing any of my skirt fabric just the raw edge. Pull that
through and then I’m going to grab a little bit of my skirt fabric its kind of similar
to sewing invisibly since the part that you grab with the skirt is the one that is going
to be showing on the right side. You just want to make your stitches really small. So
they don’t show that much and then again we are going to grab a little bit of the raw
edge coming from behind raw edge to in front staying pretty close to the edge. You don’t
want to be to close to the edge that the thread tears through the raw edge. Maybe about an
eighth of an inch or less 1/16ths. Then grab a little bit of the skirt above that and then
back to the raw edge. After you finish stitching all your hem into place and don’t forget
you still need to do the lining if you haven’t done that. Go ahead and press your hems so
they look nice and neat and you can remove all you’re basting stitches. After removing your basting and the fabric marks
you will end up with a vintage inspired dress. This has been Butterick 5880. Enjoy wearing
this dress. You’re sure to capture the glamour of yesteryear. Make sure to check out our
other videos and visit Professor Pincushion.com to view our complete library well over
150 sewing tutorials. New tutorials are released regularly so make sure to subscribe to be
notified of the next release. Thanks for watching.

61 Replies to “Classy Dame Dress – Butterick Pattern 5880”

  1. this is a great pattern. I would like one made like the original, but I would also like to use the bottom to make a hawaiian print sarong style dress 🙂

  2. A great Dress! I'm looking forward to making it…I might try ti make an apron like it, too!
    That should be interesting! 🙂

  3. I love your tutorials, and I love anything 50's. I have some 50's Vogue and 50's Butterick patterns that are wonderful.

  4. dress fabric is crepe (JoAnn's casa crepe-color Lyons blue) and lining is just a polyester fabric that feels like a lightweight cotton. I hate using the traditional lining fabric and my model says that the dress felt really comfortable and light. 🙂

  5. I think so, especially with that overlay giving a nice drape over the front. If you make it, I'd love to see a picture of your finished dress. 🙂

  6. I followed along to sew simplicity 1777 and it was my first project couldn't have done it without you. Now I'm addicted!!! Thanx

  7. Thank you for posting this i have loads of patterns to start and i understand them more now and cant wait to start 🙂 x

  8. I am so glad you are you doing Butterick and McCall Patterns!! Hope you can put up Vogues pattern videos soon too 🙂 love your channel.

  9. Thank you so much for making all these video's! I have never sewn a garment before, let alone even held a pattern (envelope) in my hand but really wanted to make my own vintage/retro dress. I thought I would never be able to do it but with your video's I think I will be able to!

  10. First I would like to thank you so much for the time u take to make all the vids…next if at all possible plz help!!!!… I'm fairly new to sewing and I seem to be having problems with zippers in the back of dresses…each time I install the zipper which goes pretty well…directly under the zipper well give or take but either I have puckering, bunching, or something funky always happen …don't know what I'm doing wrong plz help

  11. pick up pkg of Dritz wonder tape. I use 1/4" tape & it's basically a double sided adhesive. stick it on your zipper tape, peel of paper, & then stick zipper on your garment. Hand baste the zipper into place, using a contrasting thread and making sure you're going through the right side of the garment. Use your zipper foot to stitch with your machine using your basting stitch as a guideline. Make sure the right side of the garment is facing up so you can see if there will be any puckering.

  12. I enjoy watching the tutorials they help alot. but i would like to see a dress pattern done completly by hand. i am unable to use a sewing machine and would like how to translate a pattern to hand sewing.

  13. Thank you soooo much for your sew along video tutorials ! You are such an amazing teacher. Please if time permits do more of these videos because I only buy my patterns based on the tutorials you do lol

  14. Hi I am looking for help with pattern B5297 from Butterick I would like help with pattern B. If you could please show me I will be so grateful.

  15. Hi again I had previously asked for help with pattern B5297 I have made a mistake it is pattern B5797 from Butterick  pattern B (PLEASE HELP)
     

  16. another great tutorial from my favorite tutor.  I do have an account at your website, I will start my $5 subscription as soon as I get a chance to go on the site. I don't think I remember my password…lol, it been await since I visit the site.

  17. thank so much i'm a  beginner and ur step by step was so clear and understandable i'm going to attemp to make this as soon as i purchase the pattern i will be following you step by step . thanks again to you  and for the video 

  18. i really like the way the gathered fabric on the side fans out on the pattern illustration.  if i were to use ultralightweight interfacing on the lining do you think it would fan out rather than hang down?  my fabric and lining are lightweight 100% cotton. 

  19. I bought this pattern as soon as it was released.  Finally getting around to making this lovely dress.  Can't wait to wear.  I pulled up the video just in case I got stuck on the instructions.  Great aid!

  20. I really want to make this dress but the issue i have is that I am shaped like an hour glass. I have about 49" hip, 39 upper bust (since I'm larger than a b cup, and a 37-38 natural waist. I wonder if I can cut 2 sizes? I'm afraid it won't piece together right. What do you suggest? I'm a beginner to intermediate sewer.

  21. Professor pincushion thank you for creating this wonderful video. I bought the pattern intending it to make it for a wedding and I realised you had a full instructional video on how to make the dress and voila! My question is for the fan of the flounce I really want to make it stand out and wondered if I should interface with silk organza and and some horsehair braiding to the interfacing on the hem do do think that this would work to make the flounce stick up and stay up without being too stiff and still have some movement? Thanks again for your wonderful videos and of course I will post a picture of the dress on your fb page! 🙂 xx

  22. Thank you very much for preparing all these sewing video tutorials. I appreciate this type of instruction so much. Please continue.

  23. I have been sewing for 1 month at the last week on Nov 2017. I just decided to get a sewing matching to make my bedroom curtains because I did not find what I wanted. The curtains turn out as store brought which I was amazed at. I had help with my cousin but I did the sewing. My second project is a 1940 long sleeve blouse that we both learned together and it came out beautifully. My third project is a 1930 gown which we had trouble with because of the two front bodice which had the darts on the right side of the fabric, temp stitches, under stitching and top stitching. I want to wear vintage clothing and I have a lot of vintage wardrobe matching pieces of 1940's and 1960's and modern suites. It is great to have a Dressmaker as you to really explain the instructions which I am learning to understand them. great video

  24. I made a gorgeous dress to attend a wedding with this pattern. The fact that this tutorial was on YT was one of the factors which decided me for this pattern. The tutorial was so very helpful, I don't think it would have turned out as well as it did without this tutorial. I wish I could show you how great the dress turned out to be. Thank you so much!!!

  25. Thank you for this great video and crystal clear explanations. I was stuck at the ruffles step and you helped me finish in no time. You are an amazing teacher and I hope you make other videos for sewing vintage dresses. I have quite a few patterns I would gladly follow along.

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