Comparing Denim & Twill Fabric

Comparing Denim & Twill Fabric


Twill is a type of textile weave that creates a pattern of diagonal ribs. On a loom, the yarn running vertically is called the warp and the yarn running horizontally is the weft. On a plain weave, the weft runs over and under one warp yarn. For a twill, the weft runs over and under more than one warp yarn. Then the pattern is offset on the next row, which creates diagonal lines. Twill is strong and durable, resistant to tears, drapes well, and is wrinkle resistant. Denim is a type of twill. In jeans, the smoother side is used as the front. Typically the vertical warp yarns are dyed blue and the weft yarn is left natural. Then the natural yarns go over one blue and under either 2 or 3 blue yarns. This means that the diagonal ribs are on the back, and blue is the predominant color on the front. Going over 1 and under 3 creates a heavier, more durable fabric, than over 1 under 2. Bull denim is made using the same weave as typical denim, but the fabric is dyed after it is woven so it has a uniform appearance. It’s used in apparel and also home decor for upholstery. While denim is still a twill, it’s often considered to be a heavier weight fabric. There are many other twills found in apparel like micro brushed twill, gabardine, and poly cotton twill. And twills are also used in some drapery fabrics as well.

4 Replies to “Comparing Denim & Twill Fabric”

  1. Good day. I did not understand the technical difference between twill and denim. Denim is twill turned 180 degrees?

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