Crochet Baby Pleated Dress

Crochet Baby Pleated Dress


And welcome back to RedHeart.com, as well
as The Crochet Crowd. I’m your host, Mikey and in today’s tutorial, I’m going to
show you how to convert your Little Sweetie Dress into being a different,
completely different, Little Sweetie Dress with only one line being changed
throughout. So this Little Sweetie Dress has gone viral online, eighty thousand
clicks. There is a lot of people loving this little dress, but also a lot of
people emailing me on how to change the pattern so that the dress can be little
more poofy instead of straight down. So I give you the Little Sweetie, with a bit of poof. And this is a little
fabulous idea, in order to make your dress to be
absolutely brilliant and to provide a lot more poof on the bottom, and I’m
going to go through a little bit of what I’ve done right here. So in the world the crochet, I just want
to put a disclaimer right now, I never designed the Little Sweetie
Dress. My job is to educate and basically my job is to listen to the crocheters on
what they like. And so a lot of crocheters, and I mean a lot of crocheters,
emailed me and said “how can you change the Little Sweetie Dress so it has poof” so it just does not come straight down. So that’s what I’ve done here. So all I just done, is I’ve changed one line. So one row going all the way around, I
just changed it and what is happening here, is that you have three times the
amount of dress as a result of changing only one line. So you’ll notice in this pattern, and
Daniel was commenting to me the other night, is that you see how it does this? There’s
not more stitches being added as you’re going throughout this project. All I’ve just done, is that I’ve added it
in the one row, therefore it’s going to start off and it’s going to look weird
to you, but the weight of it and as you get more, it’s going to start draping down
just like a does right here. Now can you imagine visiting grandma and
grandpa, going to church, Thanksgiving, Christmas, Easter. This is the kind of dress that people
are requesting for, instead of having such a dress, that just goes straight
down. So whether you’re a fan of going
straight down like this or with a little bit of poof, we’ve got you covered. So in
today’s tutorial what’s going to happen is I’m going to start you off with the
regular Little Sweetie Dress and then the video is going to cut out when we
get to that particular line, show you how to do it, and then the video is going to
carry on from that point. And all you just have to
do, once I show you how to change that one line, you’re just going to be increasing the
amount of stitches in that line going straight down and then what’s going to
happen is that you’re just going to follow the pattern. So regardless of what
size you’re working with, if you just change only one line, you’re
going to end up with the dress that has a lot of pleating, just like so. So on to it and have a
great day. And welcome back to another edition of
The Crochet Crowd, I’m your host, Mikey and in today’s tutorial we are working
on a fabulous little baby dress. This is called the Little Sweetie Dress, and I
know firsthand that people are using this particular pattern in order to do
christening gowns, and it is really simple. Now you’ll notice in the
instructions, that the pattern looks really intimidating, because there’s a
lot of instructions, but it’s just a lot of words for something that’s really
quite simple. In today’s tutorial I’m going to be
using the James C. Brett Marble, it’s meant for baby and it’s extremely
soft and you’ll need, even for the six months size, one ball and just a smidgen of another
or you can use what’s recommended in the pattern. You can do the Red Heart Soft
Baby Steps or the other version that I did in this is the Red Heart Gumdrop, either way, all three are
particular winner in this case. So let’s get started on this particular
tutorial called the Little Sweetie Dress by RedHeart.com. So we’re looking at the pattern, it’s got
different sizes available, and you will notice that there is parentheses, and
those indicate the size difference so you have 6, 12, 18, and 24. So when you see parentheses, just like
this, six months, you have 12,18, and 24. That’s how it’s
separating here and thoughout this pattern, no matter where you see that, it’s always
in the same order so you have 6, 12, 18, and 24. If I were you, and it would make it
easier for yourself as well, if you’re doing a different size other than the first, I
would circle it. So I would, if you were doing maybe the the 18 month version,
circle the 58 and just keep going down throughout the instructions to pass it
off. And what we’re going to be doing, is we’re going to be going down through
here and the row number two for 6 and 12 months only, this is row number three. So when you have other sizes, when you
flip the sheets, you’re thinking to yourself, okay well
wait a minute, there’s 18 months and 24, but it says for size six and twelve. When
you go and look on the other side here, here by rows for sizes 18 and 24,
here’s row 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7. So you can see that it is significantly
changes, so if you are doing this pattern, all of these instructions are not even
for the six months, so you can see that when you’re going through this is that
all these instructions are really for all the sizes, which makes this pattern
look incredibly long, but it’s not, only if you’re doing a bigger sizes, I suppose.
So let’s begin and lets grab your yarn and a size H, size 5 millimeter
crochet hook and let’s pull up your yarn and get started. So let’s begin, it says I’m doing the
six month version throughout this entire tutorial. So today it is chain 50, so just simply
rock back so 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 and go all the way to 50 if your doing the six-month
sizes. For the rest of this tutorial, if you’re doing other sizes, you can still
follow along with me, but just change it in order to match it with the pattern. So go all the way to 50 if you’re doing
six months. So let’s begin row number one. It says two double crochet into the
fourth chain from the hook. This is the beginning chain, counts as
as double crochet, so in actual fact there will be three into the first one. And then says double crochet into the next chain and then two into the next and
repeat that. What I’m going to recommend to you right now, is to make a nice clean
finish on the top of this dress, is that you’re going to want to do this. So
you’re going to count back, so count back four. So 1, 2, 3, 4. Once you do that, turn the chain over, pinch
this down and go into the back just like so. So you’ll always see a bump on the
back of the chain. So you’ll see the chain is like flat on the front side. If
you go into the back, what this does is it turns the hook or turns the chain
upside down, and you end up with the most perfect finish at the top. And remember
what it said. It said to two double crochets to the fourth. So that’s what we have and now the
next chain is going to be by itself, so a double crochet, like this, and so the next one is going to be two.
So the repeat pattern all the way across this, is that there’s going to be
one double crochet by itself and then the next chain is going to be two double
crochets into the same one, and continue to repeat that all the way down. So continue that and I’ll meet you back
up in a second, moving on to row number two. So we’re coming up all the way to the
end and the final one will have two double crochet in there, and you will
find that when you turn this over, it is going to be the most beautiful finish
you’ve ever seen on the other side of the edge. So there you go. So see how you can
actually double crochet on both sides so you now you have a beautiful finish, and now that we’ve just done this, you
will notice that this is forming a circle, which is the
very top of the dress. So let’s move along to row number two next. And let’s turn our work, just like so. So now that we’ve turned our work, we
need to chain three, and it says count as a first double crochet here and throughout and
double crochet into the first stitch and this is an increase made, and then double
crochet in the next five stitches, and then two double crochet into the next,
and repeat all the way through. You can see that the parentheses because
it changes depending on how many chains that you did. So to begin, we’re going to be
chaining three, and it says to double crochet into the first. So normally we would go into this stitch
here, but we’re going to go right underneath, because it says an
increase is made. Just like so. So you have two appearing to go on the
inside. And now it says to double crochet into the next five. I should
also say, if you fast forwarded, the first chaining video part of this, the row
number one is very slow going. Just take your time with it. It’s just
one of those, once you get started it’s just being able to hold it into your
hands and getting it a lot to be a lot more speedy. So that’s just a very honest and blunt
tip for you today. So we’ve done five double crochets by itself. The next one is going to be two, just
like this. And what I want you to do is repeat that same pattern, so five double
crochets in a row and then the sixth one you put two in there. So do that and we’ll be back up the end of the
line. So now on the end of row number two and it says to DC into the next four
stitches, so you’re repeating the pattern then says DC to the next four stitches
and then double crochet into the last, and then that is the top of the turning
chain. So just happens to work out that’s how many stitches you have left. So let’s do our four. So 1, 2, 3, and 4, and essentially now we
have to make sure we get into that side chain and that would be the top of the
turning chain. Just like so, and that will complete row number two. So moving along to row number three in
the size 6 pattern, it says to chain up three. So let’s begin
so 1, 2, and 3, and it says to a double crochet into the first stitch. Don’t move over to this stitch here. Go
right underneath its almost like a v-stitch, well it’s almost
like a shell, or almost like putting two together. (laughing) I will get it right, but what happens is
that you need to put two into the same one that appears to be the same. So here we go and it says two double
crochet into the next eight. So let’s begin to do that, so 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. And then after you get
eight done, the next one is going to be two double
crochets in the same one and then repeat that. So the next eight are going to be
by themselves and go all the way along. If you do not do this extra stitch here, what happens in the next row is that
you start to notice that you’re running out of stitches as you go, so you make
sure that you do that. So carry on eight single or double
crochets in a row and the ninth one will be a double and carry on all the way to
the end of the road and we’ll meet back up in just a moment. So you’re at the end of row number three
and then what’s going to happen here is that you have the repeat pattern, which
ended here, and it says in the last two stitches there’s going to be double crochet. So it
just happens to be working out. See how the doubles there, that there is only two
stitches left and if that is happening to you, you know that you’ve done it right. So
that will conclude off row number three. Let’s turn our work and begin row
number four, for the six months size pattern. To begin row number four,
chain three and double crochet in the first stitch, and then double crochet into the
next 12 stitches and then two double crochets into the next. So that whole double crochet into the
first stitch, is exactly what you just did in the last one, so we’re going to
chain up three and we’re going to come immediately into the one that it’s
coming from, and what this is doing, its putting two together, just like that. So now what we’re going to do is the
next twelve are going to be by themselves. So it’s just double crochet
into the next twelve. So this is 2, this is 3, 4, 5, 6, we got 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12. Just like so. So there is your twelve. The next one is going to be two into the
same one. And so it just carry along that same
pattern going all the way across twelve double crochets in a row and then
the next one will be a double, just like you see. So let’s just continue
along and I’ll meet up at the end of this row as we go. Coming up on to the end of row number four, we have two more stitches left and you look at the instructions it says
double crochet into the last two stitches, that’s because the repeat pattern just
finished and there is only two stitches left. So that means that I’m doing a
fabulous job here and hopefully that you are too at home. So let’s turn our work now and move
on to row number five and you can see that the yolk is really starting to turn
out really nice, loving the colors of these, is so fabulous, so baby like, it’s so amazing, so let’s
move on to row number five and I’ll stop oogling my work (laughs) right now. So back again we
have row number five and it says to chain three, so let’s do that 1, 2, and 3, double crochet in the first stitch, just like before, it’s the one right
underneath. That one. That’s not common for double crochet, usually it’s always
the one over, but as per these instructions, you always
do that and it says to double crochet in the next twenty. So I’m not going to make you go
through twenty, so just double crochet by themselves for the next twenty and then next
one after that is two into the same one and do that all the way around. The
reason why you doing that is, that this has to grow on an equal basis, on an
equal level, and it’s just and it’s just part of the characteristic of it. So
double crochet twenty in a row and then two into the next one and them we’ll meet back up to
the end of the line. You will notice that your only repeating
this for four times, you will not be able to go right to the end. It says double
crochet to the final sixteen, next sixteen, two double crochet into the end. So just be aware of that at the end,
we’ll cover that as well, so move along and I’ll meet you at the
end of the line. So we’re coming up all the way onto the end of the row number five, and I happen to be on sixteen, so I know that it says on the last stitch that we have, is
that there’s going to be two double crochets. So just happens to be out when
you’re going through one to twenty that when you go to over here and you’re
going and ready to do another 20 you’ll end up stopping on 16, if you have
the right count. So the final stitch is going to have two double crochets in it,
and remember that final stitch is actually part of that chain, and we can
never forget that. So we’re going to move up to, turn our
work and move up to row number six next. Row number six is the final of doing
the top of the yolk and then we’re going to move down to shape the armholes if
you doing the six months size. This is how quick this pattern can be. So
let’s move on to number six next. Moving along to row number six it says to chain three. 1, 2, 3, double crochet in the first stitch. So again just like what
you’ve been doing, right down into the beginning. Just like this, and you’ll
notice that when you put these together, this will be on a slight angle because
that’s the one it’s asking us to do. So this edge is not looking flat and that’s
the whole point of this. Maybe I should have said that before, but I’m not, I didn’t so. Let’s begin. It says to
double crochet in the next twenty. I’m not going to make sure you go through that
again, but this is just like the last row of one to twenty by itself, and then the next one will be two double crochets into the next.
Continue that all the way around and then on the very last one, there’s going
to be two double crochet into the last two stitches. So it’s very much like
we’ve been doing from the rows all the way to number four and this is very
similar. So now carry on. So one to twenty by themself and the next one is double and
then one to twenty all the way through. Meet you at the end and we’ll start doing the arm
holes next. So coming up on to the end of row number
six and it says to double crochet in the last two stitches, and when we’ve
gotten this far, there’s only two stitches left, as you can see there, and
this, see the doubles in there. So that just works out to be perfect. So the next part of this tutorial, I’m
going to show you how to do the armholes next. And I need to show you something
right off the bat, in just a moment, because this may surprise you, because
you’re thinking to yourself, you’re doing it wrong, and in actual fact, you’re doing it right. Before I
do that though, you will notice that you have a big horseshoe shape here and this
looks super big, but just trust me on this folks, is that it’s really going to
come down to being a baby size, in just a little moment. So let’s move along and I’m going to pull the other project up and show you some tips. So the next part of the project, we are
going to be doing the shaping of the armholes and essentially you see how the
yolk comes down, just like so, and then the yolk goes over top of the armholes,
like so, and then comes back down the other side. So in the pattern, it says that the sides
will not be even, and what this means is that, see this here? It’s not in the center. So if you’re
thinking to yourself, when you’re doing this next part, your thinking, wooh, one side is just way off. It’s
intentionally done like that so that you do have an overlap, and it looks just
like that, so don’t be too hard on yourself. The hard part really is over, because the
next part of the stitch work is all really easy from this point going forward. Let’s move
on. We’re going to do and shape the armholes next and we’re still working on
the six month’s size, as we can see, and also by the way, before I let you go, on
this here this extra stitching that’s all the trim work afterwards. We’re going
to worry about that after as well. So we’re now moving down to shape the
armholes in round number one, and round number one means that the outfit is now
going to start going around. So the entire project right now this whole top
part here, is just the open part of the back, that is going to be but enclosed
and now the rest of this particular dress is going to be now going
in complete rounds. So let’s begin, it says to chain three, so 1, 2, and 3. Like so. So let’s go through this
very slowly and we will go on there. So it says double crochet into the next, okay, eighteen. So we’ve been going down into
the same stitch. I don’t want you to do that anymore. I want you to officially do
what it would normally do. So in the six month size, it’s eighteen stitches ,so that
was 1, and 2, 3, 17, 18. So now we’ve done the eighteen, so now it says
to skip the next twenty-two stitches for the armhole, DC into the next thirty-two. So what you need to do, I’m just going to
pull this out, and I’m going to count. So I’m going to skip over and I’m going
to grab a stitch marker, in my case a piece of yarn, and what I’m going to do
is that I’m going to count over, in my case twenty-two, there is parentheses, so if
you’re doing different sizes then pay attention to that, so I want to skip twenty-two. So
I’m just going to go along the line 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, and I’m just going to immediately go into the 23rd here and
put a stitch marker in. It’s so much easier to do this than it is to worry
about this and count it and just try not to lose your space. So I’m going to just put it in nice and
loosely, so I’m going to take this out and afterward, and now I’m going to slip
this back in. So it says to skip twenty-two and then says double crochet in the next
thirty-seven. So it doesn’t matter if you bend it like this or you bend it forward. It doesn’t matter, because you can play
with that afterward, so and I’m going to do is, the blue was the very next stitch,
so that’s where I’m going to start. So it says to do in the next thirty-seven okay, and that’s for the six month’s size. So this is 1, so see, this just completed the first armhole. That was hard, right? So let’s, that was one. And what I want you to do, is that you
don’t need to see me do thirty-seven, so I want you to continue to move down this line thirty-seven double crochets in a row and we’ll meet you back up in the second and we’ll do
the other side as well. So now that I’ve just finished my thirty-seven, what we have here is that we’re going to skip over the next twenty-two
stitches and DC in the last fourteen. So again, I’m just going to pull this out,
just so it’s easier and then begin to count over twenty-two, so 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22,
and I’m going to put a stitch marker into the twenty-third. And again it’s
just more for my convenience so that I can see where it is and move along
quicker. It really is, seriously, easier just to do
this than it is to fumble around. So now that is where my next stitch is
and what we have here, is that it says to in the last fourteen, so we’re going to
double crochet into the last fourteen and then essentially, when we started this we
started off with eighteen going in before we did the armhole, this one is fourteen therefore
this is the shorter side when it comes to the end. So now I just want to simply just need
to bend forward or bend it back doesn’t matter, just completely jump over and
double crochet into where you have the stitch marker. See how I’m kind of fumbling with that. If you’re having to count and not
marking at the same time, it becomes a real chore. So let’s, so we’re going to double
crochet into the remaining stitches that are left. There should be technically fourteen, when you
go, so do that to the end of the line and we’re not
completely done this yet because this is the starting of the circle of the dress
going around and around. When you get to the end, all you just need to do, is grab
the other side of where you started, and we are just going to slip stitch into
the top of the chain three, and this then begins the formation of going all the
way around. So this is the top of the yolk right now,
going to lightly put it down and essentially, you have your now sleeve
holes. And so now we’re starting to ready to do the dress part. And remember what I
said in the very beginning, is that the stitches will get shorter, and what
happens is that you’re going to be skipping all of these stitches going
around the sleeves, and just focusing on the middle. And, as promised, remember what I said as well, is that
this will appear, the one side is bigger than the other
and that says per the instructions. So this is working out just perfectly. Let’s move along to the next row which
is going down to the skirt. So right now you’ve been watching the
tutorial of the Little Sweetie Dress, but now it’s time to change the material in
order for me to create the bottom of the dress. So this line right here is the skirt and
it is the first round number two and this round is where we’re going to
change the pattern. So this is the only part or the only
line that we’re going to change, because it’s going to change the rest of that
once we go on. So what I want to do, is that I want to
just join the yarn and I’m just going to be using white for the bottom of my
dress here and essentially I’m just going to attach it. So it says to chain four and that counts as one double crochet in the chain one, so 1, 2, 3, and 4 and we come
down into the very same stitch from where we just joined, and go in for a
double crochet. Now as per the pattern, if we were going to follow the pattern as
like the Little Sweetie Dress, we would skip the next stitch and then
go into the next, for another v-stitch. Here’s what I want you to do. We are
going to triple size the bottom of the dress to give it more flair and we’re
going to do it right in the second one. So to begin we’re going to do another
v-stitch. So we’re just going to wrap and going in for a double crochet, we’re going to chain one, and then double
crochet again in, right there, and so we’re going to do that twice in the same
stitch. So let’s do that again. So we’re going to wrap, and going in to the same
stitch, chain one, and going in, just like so. And so what’s going to
happen is that we have two v-stitches in a stitch that was normally skipped and
then we just the next one is just a v-stitch on its own in the same one. So this is what we’re doing all the way
across. So then the next one here would be the identical to what you just start
over here. So we’re going to put in two v-stitches, into that same stitch. So
what this is doing, so that was one. So what this is doing is that it’s
providing more stitches for the next layer as we go around. Therefore, it’s going to cause it to
really bulk out. So I want you to do one V-stitch in the first, two in the
next, and carry along all the way until we get to the next round. When you get all the way back around we just want to join, just like we did before on the Little
Sweetie Dress. So all we’ve done at this point is that
you see how ruffly it is. So this means that this dress is going to be three
times bigger, as far as more drape here on the bottom. You are still going to follow the directions right from now on. So this is the only line that will have
changed. So to begin the next line, just to get you started, is that we’re going
to, what does it say, it’s going to slip stitch in the first chain space. so I’ve, so the chain spaces right in the
very first one and we’re just going to slip stitch there and we’re going to
chain up four. So 1, 2, 3, and 4, and then we,
what we have to do is just double crochet back into that same space. So this is how you would complete the
Little Sweetie Dress, as if it was normal. Okay, so what we have to do then is that we
have to separate and look at where these are all separated. So this is a v-stitch. See how these are joined. So there’s two in this one here. So that
means that the center these two centers are the the v-stitch.
So all we just have to do is just go to the first one and do another “v”. And this
one would not have existed in the regular pattern. We go to the second one,
that is in there, and we do another “v”, and we’re just creating these all the
way around, on this, and the only difference is that you just have to pull
these apart so you can see them very clearly. So there’s one right there. So do you see how it exists at the
bottom it’s “v”ing at the top? So that’s the next one that’s in line. So
I need you to go all the way around and I’m gonna put this video back on regular,
because you know how to do it. Your stitches now are going to start looking
just like the pattern. The lengths are absolutely identical. It’s just this last line that we just
did, is the only difference. So have fun and we’ll hope to see your
photos on facebook with your updates with this particular pattern. When
looking at this dress pattern, you want to follow the instructions what we’re
doing is the V-shape and the and if you really look carefully you’ll see that
there’s a change at some point in here, and that’s because it’s fanning out to
be even more wider. And so what’s happening is that, maybe hopefully you
can see this on camera, is that a certain point in what we’re
doing now is that you’re only going to do it so that the skirt measures three
inches down. So right where was just started right now is that we want to do
it so it goes down three inches. Then once we get to the three inches mark,
we’re going to change our stitching just slightly, and you will notice that the v-stitches here are look bigger than what they do up here. Right, see how tight they
look? And then it just opens up to be even more so. This is what we’re doing
right at this point. So when you’re pulling up your project right now, I want
you, for the sixth month size, to continue to go all the way around, a slip stitch back
into the center like you have been and only and grab your tape measure, just like so, and just leave it out and
just keep measuring until you get to the point that it’s three inches down from
the very point of the yolk area. So you can actually see it right here where the
v-stitches start. That’s right, so that’s where we’re going
to start our three inches. So what three inches from this point just
following exactly what we did and then I’ll meet you back up after I get it
done here and I’ll show you what how to finish off and do the next part of the
skirt in order to make it bigger. So again, v-stitch just right into the
center of the current v-stitches and just going to carry on like that. So we’re back again and I now have
my three inches here, and if you can always change the length of your dress,
but I would not do it here. I would wait until you get to this next
section that I’m about to show you. So what we’ve been doing is just a
v-stitch and now we’re going to to a large v-stitch. So I’ve just slip
stitch and now I’m going to start this row off like at it was before and we’re
just going to slip stitch and now we’re going to chain five. So 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, and then
double crochet into the same space …down. This is a large “v” that we’re doing.
So the difference is, let’s start, is that we’re going to “v” into the next center
and then chain two, 1 and 2, and then “v” again in, like a double crochet in. So then we go to the next one just
double crochet, chain two, and coming back in and what this does is it adds more
space in between so that the dress will fan out and it’s just really quick and
easy. So now when you’re looking at the
instructions it says repeat the last round until the skirt measures seven
inches. So the seven inches is right from the top of the yolk here, going all the
way down. So continue this particular step, going
all the way around and around and around, until you get about seven inches and at
the end you can make a decision whether you think the dress is either too small
or too large for length, and you can always add on more before doing the
final edging in the round number one and two. So continue along and I’ll meet you back
up in just a moment we’ll have this whole section complete. So welcome back
and I have now completed all the way down. Isn’t this absolutely gorgeous? I love,
love, love, Mikey approved here. And now we’re ready for the bottom edge,
and if you are not happy with the length of your trying it on a youngster, the
edging is going to go about it maybe an inch and a half and then that’s it. So if you want to try it on with
somebody that you know, if you’re thinking to yourself, well it’s a little
bit too short, then you can just continue the same revolutions going all the way
around, but this looks amazing. The yarn is just fabulous. So let’s set begin. We’re going to start
with the edging and our round number one. First, the edging it’s actually a lot of fun. I’ve been excited about getting to it. So let’s do that next. So to begin, what you’re looking at here
is two edging areas. So we have round number one and round number two. So essentially, what we’re doing is that
in this round number one, is that we’re creating what looks like to be a v-shape.
Okay, so we have half double crochet, 2 double crochet, we have some spacing, then
two double crochet, and then half, and then we come around for the second row
and finish it off, to do these beautiful, they almost look like gorgeous leaves.
For my tutorial purposes, I’m going to keep it using the same color cuz I
really love, love this color. So let’s set begin. We’re going to slip
stitch into the first chain space. So we have joined it. We’re just going to slip stitch like you
have been to start, and it we’re going to chain two. 1 and 2. Now this counts
as half double crochet. So if this helps you then great. (laughing) So we’re going to do two double crochets. Terrible teacher, am I. So we have two double crochets here and then chain
one. Okay, two double crochet, again and the
chaining of two counted as half double crochet. And so what’s happening
on one side has to happen on the other. So we do a half double crochet to finish
this off. Just like so. So you cannot see the
gapping space yet. You won’t be able to see that until the next round. So now what we need to do is we need to
repeat this all the way around inside each one of these “v”s. So the next one, we just skip to it, we’re
going to half double crochet first. Okay, we’re going to double crochet, twice. We are going to chain one and then
finish the other side. So pretend it’s a mirror. So we’re going to do two double
crochet again. Okay, and then the last one is going to be
half double. So continue to do that same thing in each one of the v-stitches all
the way around. I’ll meet you back up in just a moment
where we will carry on and we’ll start on the next round and you’ll love this
particular project at this point. I really loved the edging when I did it
before, so I’m doing it again. I’ll talk to you in just a moment. So we’re still working on the edging, round number one and we’re just finishing off and we’re just going to
join it to the top of the chain two, to bring it to a full conclusion. So now we’re going to move on. It says
skip the next two double crochets. Okay, so these two obviously and what we’re
going to be doing is that says skip the next two double crochet, four double crochets, a
picot, three double crochets into the next chain space. Okay, so what we’re going to be doing here
is that we’re going to be doing four double crochets and I want to explain
something to you, but I’m not going to do it quite yet, because you’re going to
think to yourself well that’s just not right. We’re going to do four, okay, so now it’s
going to do a picot. So let’s do a picot and how you do
that is chain three. So 1, 2, and 3, and coming back down into the middle,
just like there. See how I’m going in between the stitches, just like so? Grab
the yarn, pull through and this makes it a little point, and then it says to do three
double crochets into the chain space and you’re thinking to yourself, well at least I was when I was doing it, is that well gee you, you crocheted four
double crochets then a picot and then three and you’re thinking to yourself,
well that doesn’t make the picot in the center. This is what I want to explain to you.
Here you have 1, 2, and 3, the 4th here. the picots sitting on the
fourth and then 1, 2, 3, so, in actual fact, what you’re seeing
here is a total of seven stitches combined. Okay and the picot is right in the middle,
one of the seven, so you had six or three, three, and the ones in the middle. So let’s
begin the next section over here. So we’re just going to reach over, okay, and we are going to double crochet
ourselves four times into the middle of the next section. So now when I was showing you the
original you saw the gapping space. So this is going to cause it. So we do
four double crochets again and we’re going to be doing this in every one of
them that we’re going around and this will conclude the bottom edge of your
dress. So we have our four. Let’s do a picot
again. So 1, 2, and 3, we come down, see how
coming into the front, right there and pulling it through and through and then
double crochet back in again to the middle section for three more times. So continue to do that all the way
around. I’m glad I didn’t change the yarn color on this, by the way. I think it’s
going to look fabulous. So I’ll do that off-camera meet you back up to finalize that
and we just got a little bit of trim work and the picot idea is all in the
side arms as well as the neck area as well as the back. So now just coming all the way back
around and we just have to slip stitch to the very beginning on where we
started. Just like so, and we just need to fasten
off and what I would strongly recommend is just take your scissors and leave an
extra long tail and then at the end we’re just going to use a darning needle
to hide those in and sew in professionally so it doesn’t pop up,
especially when a child is wearing it. So this is where we have so far. This
dress is turning out to be absolutely amazing. You have a nice frill at the bottom. Love, love, love. So now what we have to do, is that we
have to go and fine tune the rest of this. We have to fine tune the armholes,
the neck, the back area, just like so. And it’s really easy. So with the back area,
we just come around the top. So we just go around the top like so and come back
down and fasten off and then do the same here. So I’m going to only show one section
here on how to do that because it’s the same. The edging is the same and it goes really quick. So if you’re you’re thinking to yourself, wooh, when is this
project will be done? You’re almost done, you just gotta
finalize off the little bit. So we’re now ready to begin the edging
and this is the same across the board. so Please and do what I’m about to show you
for the neck and the both of the armholes. So in the armholes, or in the neck, sorry you’re going to start down at the bottom and just makes sense go up
and go all the way back around and come back down and then what we’re doing is
that we’re just going to start off. So it says to start off anywhere within the
armhole. I’m not creating a slip stitch slip knot, sorry, and I’m coming in and
they’re just fastening on. So just do this, like that. So it says to single
crochet in every stitch around. So we’re just going to single crochet. So
go into in single crochet where you’ve joined just to finalize that off and
just go in around. So 1, 2, and 3. So every time you
get three done, I want you to do a picot. So 1, 2, and 3, and then coming down in there. picots are no big deal. So I find some
people, like really, regret, really don’t like them, but they’re really a
nice finalizing touch. So we’re going to single crochet again
three more times. Just a row three more times and a picot. So 1, 2, and 3 coming down in and like so and then 1, 2, 3. So continue to do this all the way
around. When you get all the way around, you just going to fasten off and then
just and restart the next section on the other armhole or the neck whatever you
want to do next. So 1, 2 and 3, and picot. When we
come back, I’ll have all of that done and finalize today’s video. And now it is time for the final touches,
and on the back you can apply a button and you’ll notice that there’s a big side
and a small side. So you’re going to apply it to the big
side because the small side is going to overlap at the top making the back even. So when you’re applying buttons I
know people going to email my email me about using buttons and baby projects,
make sure that they are securely fastened and make sure you’re using
extra caution when you’re using these buttons. They have to be able to fit
between the stitches that you’re using. So you have to determine the size before
you apply it to your project. So that’s how they’ll work and you can see that
the top is finished just right. So now let’s do the final trim work and these
are all the little ends that you have. And what we’re going to do is we’re
going to use a darning, you don’t really going to show one here and we’re just
going to apply those ends everywhere we had loose ends, and just put it in and
this technique is really handy because, especially when it’s on a child you
don’t want these loose ends coming out. So essentially, we have to hide these
stitches in, so we’re just going to go into our project along on the inside of
the stitches. We are going to go one direction, this like so, we’re going to
come back and when we go back in the other direction, we want to go in
somewhere different, so that the strings kind of overlap each
other. These get stuck and then we go a third time. So by going back and forth three times, it locks it permanently in to position
and once you get that done you can safely trim that and you’ll never have
to worry about those falling out. Just like so. So go along in your entire
project and you are going to have an amazing little baby’s dress by the
time you’re done. So here we have our complete dress. Isn’t that beautiful and even on the other side we have the overlap and this is great. So in this particular project, we did use
James C. Brett Baby Marble and you can find this in more independent retailers
across North America. So until next time, I’m Mikey, on behalf
of RedHeart.com as well as The Crochet Crowd. And until next time, stay tuned for more
free patterns and ideas we’ll see ya.

99 Replies to “Crochet Baby Pleated Dress”

  1. Hello there Mikey 🙂
    I sooooo <3 <3<3 this pattern & u for this wonderful tutorial !
    May I please ask ?…..How would I make a 0 – 3 month old size.
    Cheers Monique

  2. when i do the first row of 2 dc in 4th ch from hook *dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch; repeat I end up with 1 dc in the last stitch I've had to undo and redo multiple times always same results

  3. I made this for my niece when she was just a baby… but love the poofy style better.. is it possible to enlarge it for a 6 year old

  4. thanks for all your tutorials I made this dress for 2 of my granddaughter's . I have a question do you have instructions for making this dress in larger sizes?

  5. thank you so so much for this video my cousin really liked this dress for her birthday and it's all thanks to you Mikey thank you

  6. I"m i one of the armholes. after I made the 1st armhole OK. but one I count 37 dc and skip 22, but I have only get 9 dc instead 14. doing something wrong. need helo

  7. If I am not using the same yarns as shown in video but different yarns and they are different in thickness, so how do I have determine the size of the dress I want to do it for 24 months ????

  8. why not measure the person neck and just follow Mike instructions he is very easy to follow thank you I enjoy the out look of the little sweetie Dress

  9. I am crocheting this dress and I have to keep watching this video to make sure that I am getting the instructions right. I really enjoy watching your tutorials.

  10. I love your dress so much butt I have a problem understanding the double v shape on the first line and confused on the second one you need to show it clearer with the camera and a little slower in talking I would appreciate that so much

  11. I felt that the fullness was too much. So I changed the pattern a little and am very please with the finished product. I did my pattern at the ruffle change with…1 V, 1 V, the third stitch was the 2 Vs. Using all of the stitches at the change.

  12. Help!!!! Has anyone made this dress. I'm having problems with the back. I'm trying to place buttons on the back, but it will not close properly. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks.

  13. Does anyone know how to alter the pattern for a newborn or 0-3months.? If I use a smaller hook – maybe a 4 or 4.5mm- would that work?

  14. I'm making this in the 12 month size and I'm have problems with row 7. After repeating the pattern 7 times I have 22 sts left. I have started over on the whole project 2 times and repeatedly counted my sts. Can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong. Thanks

  15. Mikey i have a Question to ask you bout this dress tutorial .

    for about the yoke prt of the dress do i just keep increasing as like if i was to make this dress to the size i want it as like 24 months old – 1 yr ? or to keep increasing at the skirt or both ?

  16. Hi Mikey I'm crocheting this right now and all my rows matched up from 1-6 but when I got to the arm holes I did everything as you did but I didn't have 14 stitches left after the 2nd arm hole ??? Help

  17. I love your tutorials and your personality and your designs. I hope you continue for a really long time as I would like to continue making your projects for my 4 granddaughters.

  18. Great tutorial ! I've come back to this one over and over again these past few years ! Thank you so much for sharing your time and effort with us !

  19. Hi Mikey, the dress I've making is looking fab, although I was a little confused, as the pattern indicated a slip on the edging round 2 which you omitted from this tutorial. Mine looks fine with the slip stitches and also the 2 chain picot 😉😊

  20. I'm making my first baby dress and I'm 67yrs old if I can do it so can every one else under the guidance of Mikey my later mother would be so proud of me as a young girl I'd never would have picked up a crotchet hook and look at me sitting here and learning from Mikey…
    Thank you so much for your great awesome videos I have made 4 blankets and now a baby dress …love you Mikey

  21. was just wondering how the change effects the yarn totals…..would love to get enough and not worry about running out and store be out of stock..that is my luck

  22. How do I make this for a size six and six seven in kids I'm guessing you just keep going till it fits aroumd there arms then go with the rest

  23. I'd like to know the brand and color way name for the dressier pleated version. It's green with flecks of color in it. Does anyone know the brand and color name of the yarn?

  24. saya sangat senang dg rajutan baju dan sepatu bayi. smuanya bgus2 saya hobi merajut tapi semua petunjuknya mmkai bahasa ingris saya mhon tlg dg mmkai bhsa indonesia terima ksih atas ptunjuknya.

  25. Does anyone know the name of the green variegated yarn that’s coupled with the white yarn on the ad for this video tutorial? I have looked but can’t find anything similar. Help!!

  26. So had fun with this dress. Want to try the original version…. Made great Christmas gift… Thank you so much for sharing this amazing dress 🙂

  27. Hi Mikey..I just love your tutorials! I've learned a lot and the patterns are easy to follow. I'd like to know if you have a pattern for a toddler's Chevron dress? There is one on Youtube, but sometimes it's hard to understand because of the ladies accent…Thanks a lot.

  28. I know this is an older video and chances of questions being answered are very slim but I have to try. Besides changing the hook size and possibly the yarn size, what else would I need to do to make this a preemie size? My daughter wants it for her baby and needs it for pictures in less than two weeks. Please help! Thanks in advance!

  29. I love it very much
    Now l make a dress as it to my brother's daughter
    When l finished i will send its pic to you

  30. Mikey , I am confused do I skip row 3 if I am making size 24 month, I am on row 2 and row 3 says for 6 month so now what Thank you love your tutorials.

  31. Thank You.Mikey For this tourtorial. I have a new grand baby coming By the end of June. and I wanted to make it a baby dress so she could wear it.

  32. Hello from South Africa, love your baby clothes, do you have a pattern for a baby sweater 6 to 12 months please, many thanks

  33. Mikey the dress that you made doesn’t pleat like the dress you showed us at the beginning.
    You said that you change that one row so that the dress will flare out and have a pleated affect. It’s a beautiful dress and I can’t wait to make one

  34. I absolutely loved this pattern! It is reversible? Meaning, can the button be worn in front, or the back? I am looking forward to making this in some beautiful self striping yarn! 🙂 Thank you, Mikey!

  35. I am a little confused with the first pleat row. To do a double V stitch, do you do 1 DC, ch 1, 1 DC, ch 1 and 1 more DC all in the same stitch? Or do you do 1 DC, ch1, 2 DC, ch1 and 1 more DC? Which it looks like you are doing in the video tutorial. Which then gives you 2 DC's, side by side. To me, a double V stitch would be the first scenario that I outlined. Which again is, 1 DC, ch 1, 1 DC, ch 1 and one more DC. Please tell me which way is correct. I've got the yoke done, but I am stumped on the first pleat row. Thank you!! 🙂

  36. What if I wanted to use a weight 3 yarn? I don’t have the money to get new yarn so I’m using what I have. What size hook would I need to make this fit a 6-9 or 6-12 month baby girl?

  37. Mickie I am having a hard time getting the count right or ending the rows 1-4 right what am I doing wrong this is the only video from you that I have issue with

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *