Drill press wear check

Drill press wear check


hello Welcome to Enots engineering I’m Alan Today in the workshop I dismantle my drill press to check the main bore for wear the machines now 22 years old and I was interested to see how much wear is accumulated over the years I also have a giveaway which is a digital caliper from Banggood and all you have to do to win that is send your name on an email to me at Enots [email protected] and we’ll draw the winner out next week I must get the email by the 29th of September so let’s go to the workshop and see how we do it well today I have a couple of digital calipers I will show you this one there are two things unusual about this first of all it comes with two batteries and there’s also a battery inside the unit so for some reason you get three batteries and this caliper will measure millimeters inches and fractions you have the usual end for measuring your OD use the other jaws for
measuring the ID the part at the end measuring the depth and also if you want to measure a step you can use the distance between the bottom and the face there to measure the step you can see that reads in fractions also it gives millimetres and inches In millimetres we get 7.85mm In inches you get 0.3085″ and in fractions you get five sixteen It will measure up to 150mm 6″ It comes in the case and I have two of these which we will have a draw for the winners just send me your name on an email to
Enots [email protected] gmail.com before the 29th of September 2019 this is my drill press all I want to do is just take the top of it’s easier to undo it and take the motor and the top mechanism off than it is to try and lift everything up onto the bench so to take the top off it’s just two grub screws here undo the two screws and you should be able to lift the top off to put it on the bench this is the spindle of the drill press motor at the back and this hole here is
where the column of the drill press goes it’s upside down which is easier to
dismantle this way with the drill press as they get old you’ll notice that when you drill with a centre drill you can see the center drill trying to
move around and find the center when that starts to happen you know that the bore in the casting has got larger so I’ve been trying to think of a way of
tighten up on that so it’s more accurate so the first thing you do is take this keyway bolt out The bolt comes out of here and what I’ve done on the end it’s drill a hole in the end of the bolt and fitted some brass so it just fits into the gap and this just prevents a spindle from twisting and the next thing to do is undo this nut here be careful when you undo this I haven’t got this torsioned but this is the spring torsion for turning the head so as you turn it down it will return the head this lock nut comes off then this can come off and normally you would have a tensioned up to about there so just make sure when you undo it this does move back and the tensions gone otherwise it’ll spring around quickly Take the spring off the spring locates in the slot on the shaft through the centre of that once you’ve taken that off this shaft here with the handle on should pull out straight through that’s what you have on the end this is your handle for lowering the drill And all it has is a gear that engages in the spindle and this is where your nut goes and as a tip if you find that this nut keeps coming undone what I do is I put some PTF tape around because once you’ve used a few times the nylok part in the nut doesn’t work I find if I put PTF tape around it’s just enough to hold the nut to stop it coming loose so once you’ve removed the handle this spindles should just come out if you’re doing this with the drill press
mounted on the stand this will just fall out when you remove the handle so be careful on that hold this in when you remove the handle you can see what you have on this is a bearing on the end the quill inside This ones a number two Morse taper you can line up the holes in the side to put your drift through and on the other end there’s another bearing and this has a circlip on it just stops the spline shaft pushing down through the bearings so there’s nothing there that guides except this hole on the casting and that just rubs up against this steel outer case so the only way you can try and stop this moving in the casting is tightening this screw-up which grips and pushes the quill over on to the casting now what I was thinking of doing is drilling some holes in the side for grub screws and then in the end of a grub screw put a bronze cap so you can push the spindle so what happens with time is this bore in here on this one it’s about 40mm starts toget elongated with wear and the more that this wears the more your spindle will drift you could bore this out and put a bronze bush in but you need to do it in the middle of this as well there’s another bore just about three inches down from the top so you would need to do both bores and bush both bores which is quite difficult because you you can’t get at it from the other side I will measure the bore size to see how oval it is. 39.85mm 39.90mm So that’s 0.05mm difference which is 0.002″ that’s not worn that much on this so 0.002″ ovality after twenty years is not too bad now the way the spring works is around the outside of the holder there are cutouts and they register on this so as you tighten the nut up on there the inner part of the spring goes through the shaft down the centre of the shaft and as you turn the outside from one cut out to the next it puts more tension on as you go around the end of this quill with the spline on goes through a bearing in the bottom and then into the pulley there’s a spline in the pulley and so the bottom bearing in here just holds the pulley in position this should go through engage on the teeth The middle of the spring goes through the shaft washer PTF tape and the the lock nut If I hold the tension on there as I go around you can put different tensions on If I hold it about there and tighten the nut down that’s probably a bit too much Thats probably okay if you tighten this up all your doing any squashing the cover It doesn’t need to be tight just
needs to be free so the spring will return it so what happens is as the bore in this end and wears this starts to float and it makes it difficult you’ll can see that when your drilling a hole you will see the drill actually moving around trying to get into the centre of the hole because there’s play so make sure you oil the spindle because that’s the only lubrication that will get into this bore and your machine should last a lot longer now I’ve turned it around the right way and you can open the top here I will show you here you can see the spline coming through from the end of the quill that just goes through the center of this pulley and there’s another intermediate pulley here and right at the end on the motor there’s another pulley now this drill press has 16 speeds the speed range will go from 195 rpm up to 3500 rpm depending on which set of pulleys your using from the motor to the intermediate pulley and from the intermediate pulley to the spindle pulley By taking the top off obviously It’s half the weight so it’s a lot easier to move in two separate parts in the centere of the handle here this is just a magnet and I use that to put my chuck key there when I use a drill press the chuck keys always there to hand I’m not searching around to find out where it is I’ve just started to do that now on my milling machine when I have a chuck fitted the chuck key just fits on my milling
machine like that I found that it will sticky back magnets very useful now all I have to do is put these back on the top of the column and tighten the two grub screws to hold it securely well that’s it for the day thanks for
watching hope you enjoyed it and we’ll see you next time On Enots engineering

7 Replies to “Drill press wear check”

  1. Hello Allan – I was looking at your solution of using tape to hold the torsion spring nut from moving. Have you considered finding a nut/jam nut to use instead? That way you could set your tension and then hold it with the jam nut with less chance of it slipping. I'm putting off (so far) fixing the other end of my spindle as sometime in the past the spindle pulley has been beat up fairly bad.
    BTW – I've not seen it written – is it Alan, Allan, Allen? Thanks, enjoy your videos!

  2. I have a similar drill press and I too had problems with the nyloc stiffnut unscrewing on the pinion spindle. I determined that the cause was the slot (return spring anchor) closing up, and got round this by cutting some strips of shimstock to insert in the slot after assembly to prevent this, now the nyloc nut stays put. Not sure about the wear you measured in the quill bore after 20 year's use – mine was about the same when I first bought my machine.

  3. Not even sure if I can lift my drill press head to remove it now days. I know it needs work. I have had a magnet on mine to hold the key for years. Rather than turn a nut for depth setting I put a collar with thumb screw.

  4. http://bedroom-workshop.com/drill-chio/0drill-chio.html
    i did this mod, cut the housing with jig saw and put clamping bolt, and it is beter then new drill press now.

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