Girl’s Dress – McCall’s Pattern 6690

Girl’s Dress – McCall’s Pattern 6690


Speaker: Welcome to Professor Pincushion.
In this tutorial, we’re going to be work on McCall’s 6690. In this particular tutorial,
we’re going to be focusing on a dress D which you can see right here. This
pattern comes in two size groupings. You’re going to want to make sure you grab the right
size. You can see it right here on the side of the envelope. Let’s take a quick look at an example of the
dress we’re going to be making in this tutorial. This is a girl’s pullover dress that has a
button in the back. It also uses a sheer overlay fabric, so you can see the fabric is a little
bit sheer in the sleeves and the ruffle at the bottom. But it has a lining in the main
part of the dress. It also has a fabric belt, so you can tie the dress either in front or
the back. To make sure you’re cutting out the right pattern, you’re going to want to
consult the body measurement chart located on the top flap of the pattern envelope because
retail sizing and the pattern sizing are not always the same. You can see this is split up by children’s
and girls. This top row here, these are the actual sizes, and then underneath it are the
measurements here in inches. So you’re going to want to measure the child’s chest waist
and hip, and you’re going to take these measurements, and try to line them up best you can in one
column. So whatever column works best for you that is going to be the size that you’re
going to cut out, and we’re also going to use it to figure out how much fabric we’re
going to need. Looking at the back of the pattern envelope,
the first thing I like to look at is the suggested fabrics. So here they’re telling you what
fabrics they suggest that you use is in order to complete this garment. So this here is
the main fabric, and then you’re also going to need a lining fabric. Also we have notions
for all the garments in this envelope A, B, C and D you’re going to need one three-eighths
button, and a one package of half inch single fold bias tape, and then if you’re doing A,
you’re also going to need these other things. But if you’re not doing A, as we’re doing
D, then you can go ahead and skip what they have under A. Once you have your fabric picked out, you
can then move on to figure out how much fabric you’re going to need cut. So first you need
to find your view. I doing view D, so here you can see A, B, C and D, so I only need
to look at the D row. You have 45 and 60. This relates to the width of the fabric either
the fabric is 45 inches or 60 inches in the width. Mine is 60 so then I could go along and
follow the 60 inch row. I’m going to find my size. I’m doing size
three, so I’m going to go down the three column until I get to the 60 inch row, and then I’m
going to need one and half yards of fabric. You could see here they also have lining.
We have lining here, and lining here. This is for lining A, B and D. And this is for
lining C. Again I’m doing D, so I had only need to look at this row which is for 45 inch
width fabric. I go again across the 45 down to 3, and I’m going to need a half yard of
lining. Let’s go ahead and break out our direction.
So on page one, you’re going to see a diagram like this with all the views. We’re going
to be doing view D. Underneath that, its going to be going to be a chart of all the pattern
pieces located in this envelope. Underneath that is a list of the pattern numbers, and
these numbers go with these pattern pieces up here, so one and one and then they tell
you what it is. It’s the front. To find out which ones you need to cut out,
you’re going to see up here is top A, B and dress C, D and belt. If you look at number
5, it says ruffle B, if you’re not doing view B, you do not need to cut out piece 5 because
if already designated this is for B same thing with 6. Lower ruffle B. If it doesn’t have
a letter behind it, that means it’s for all views, so if I’m doing D, I’m only need to
cut out 1, 2, 3, 4, 7 there is the D right here and 8. Pulling out the tissue paper from the envelope,
you’re going to see all your pattern pieces printed on it, and they’re going to have numbers
right in the middle just like this one and this again correlates to the list we were
just looking at. But if you’re unsure you can look right underneath it, and it states
exactly what the pattern piece is for, and then it will have the letter of the view that
it goes with. You’re going to cut right either right on the line, or just right outside the
line for cutting out your pattern piece. Sometimes you’ll see a series of lines. You’re going
to cut depending on what size each line is for, so if for example I’m doing 3, I follow
the arrow up to the line where the arrow ends, that’s going to be for size 3. So I would
just cut along here, turn, and then cut along this line, so all this would get cut off. If it’s just a solid line with no number associated
with it, and that’s going to be for all sizes, you’re also going to want to make sure that
you cut out your notches which you can see right here, so either you could cut into the
notch, so created a little triangle going inside the piece or you can do one that goes
outside the piece, so just a little outer triangle there because we definitely want
to make sure that we mark those. Now, some of the pieces 1 through 4, I have
one right here, you will notice that it will have different lengths, and if you look at
the bottom with some of the lines, it will say cut here for A, B and C, and then there
will be a longer line that says cut here for D, so they’re just for using the same piece,
and if it’s a longer dress, you’re just cutting out on the different lines. If you’re still
using the same piece, still following all the rules but if you’re doing say D, you would
cut out one line as opposed to C. After you finish cutting out all your pattern
pieces, you can then proceed with pinning them to your fabric. In order for us to figure
out how we need to layout our pattern pieces in order to make the most of the fabric and
also to make sure that our grainline is going in the same direction, we’re going to consult
the layout directions. You can see some of them here, and you need to make sure you’re
looking at the right view, so at the top you’re going to see dress and belt D, and since we’re
doing D, then everything below is going to relate to us. You can see here we have 45 inch and 45 inch.
So they’re showing you the layout that you would use if you’re using 45 inch width fabric.
The difference between these two is that this one is for sizes 3 through 6, and this is
for sizes 7 through 14. So if for example you have 45 inch width fabric, and you’re
doing size 3, you would just have to look at this setup right here. If you have 60 inch width fabric then you’re
going to keep looking down and you’ll see they have a similar setup 60 inch and 60 inch.
This is for sizes 3 through 6, and this is for 7 through 14. I have 60 inch width fabric
I’m doing size 3, so I just have to look at this setup. Now, you’ll see this is fold and selvages.
This means that the width of the fabric so the 60 inches is folded in half with the selvages
meeting up here, and then you have your fold. So then I’m laying out all my pieces, and
when I cut out say piece number 4, I end up with 2 number 4s because I’m doubling my fabric
when I cut it out. Now you’ll notice some here is white, and some here is polka dot.
The white pieces is for, is telling you that the print side of the pattern is facing up
towards you. If its polka dot that means they turned it, so the print side is facing down
towards the fabric, so this is telling you what pieces you need to cut out of your main
fabric. So for example you have 4, and its right side
facing up, and then you have 1 and its wrong side facing down. Now, 1 and also piece 7
need to be replaced on the fold of the fabric, so when you pin and cut it out, you’re just
going to be pining on this side, and this side, and then this little side right here.
You can also pin 1 on the fold line, but you’re not cutting here. You’re just cutting on the
three sides, so when you open it up, you end up with the piece that’s doubled the size
of number 1, and its going to be the same for number 7. Now, you see number 7 three times is because
they want you to cut this out three times, so you would pin it, cut it out, remove the
pattern piece, place it right next to where you cut it out, and then do it one more time.
You can see its kind of the same thing with piece number 8 because they want you to cut
out three of the number 8 piece so you just pin it, cut it out, you end up with 2, and
then you’ll see 8 with the star next to it. What the star means is, they want you to cut
out all the other pattern pieces first, and then whatever is leftover in the fabric, you
can go ahead and open it up because you only need to cut one more piece number 8. Lastly, you need to cut out your lining pieces,
so you’re going to be reusing some of the same pieces in order to cut out your lining,
and you’re going to do 1, 2, and 3. 1 again is placed on the fold of the fabric, 2 is
placed upside down and then 3 is just up here at the top. One step that’s very important
it’s transferring marks on the pattern pieces to your fabric pieces, and these marks will
look like circles. They will look like dots. They may look like triangles or squares. Whatever
they are, you need to make sure that you what I like to do is I put my needle through my
mark, and you only need to do it for your size, so I’m only doing it for where there
is a 3 next to it. Now, if it’s a square that doesn’t have
a size next to it, then its for all sizes. So I put my pin right through this circle
or dot that I’m going to, and on the wrong side of my fabric, I’ll use my fabric marker,
and I’ll just mark when my pin is coming into or out of my fabric, so I’ll just mark it that
way, but I definitely want to make sure that you transfer all marks to your fabric. We’re almost ready to start sewing, but let’s
just take a quick peek at our sewing directions. First we have our sewing information guide.
Here you’re going to see the seam allowance so its going to be five-eighths of an inch
unless otherwise indicated so if it just says do a seam we’re always going to assume, its
going to be five-eighths of an inch unless they state something differently in the directions. Also we have the fabric key, so this is how
we’re going to be able to read the picture directions that are with the written directions.
So here you have the right side of the fabric if it’s sort of the shaded look, you can
see that here. This is we’re looking at the right side of the fabric or the right side
of the garment. Just white is the wrong side of the fabric you can see that here. We don’t
have to worry about interfacing because there’s no interfacing in this project. Now if it’s
shaded with these little lines such as right here, that means it’s going to be at the right
side of the lining and if its white with the little lines, that’s the wrong side of the
lining, and you can see that there. So at the beginning of the directions, usually
it will tell you which view its for. Now, and it doesn’t say like this one just says
front and back. That’s going to be for all views, so regardless if you’re doing the top or the
dress, you’re going to go ahead and start with one, and you’re going to continue down
into the directions unless it states something differently such as over here it says for
views, A, C and D, so if you were doing B, you can go ahead and skip this step until
you actually find a step that is relating to B. Step 1; reinforce side edges of front and front
lining to the large circles as shown. clip to large circles. Out of your piece number
1, you should have cut out 1 out of your lining and a 1 out of your main fabric. Marks from
the pattern piece should have been transferred to your fabric piece, and you could see some
of my circles here. There should be two large circles, right on the edge here. My two large
circles here so on each of these pieces I’m going to be stitching at my seam allowance,
so at the five-eighths line using the regular stitch just a line from one big circle to
the other big circle. I’m not stitching these two pieces together.
Its just one individual layer stitching from this circle to this circle. I’ve only have
it lay top of each other so I can show both at the same time. I’m going to be doing it
for the lining piece and also for my main piece, both sides, so this side and this side
over here and again I would be doing the same to my main fabric as well. We’re stitching
in this area in order to reinforce this point of the garments so I’m just starting on the
outside of my first circle. You can see it right there. Again at the five-eighth seam, I’m going to
do a couple stitches, and then a couple of back stitches, and I’m just doing a regular
width stitch going to the other large circle and then doing a couple of back stitches
as well. To finish Step 1, on both your lining and your main pieces you’re going to clip
at the point where your circle is. Now, my circle is a little off, so you definitely
don’t want to cut into your stitches just in the same line of the circle, and just cut
as close as you can to the stitches. Step 2, turn front seam allowance to the inside
between clips press. This is my main fabric. This is the area where I just stitched right
there between the two circles, and I went ahead and I clipped it. You can see its just
a little flap now. This, we’re looking at the wrong side of the fabric now, so all they want
you to do on both this side and the other side as well, with the wrong side facing up,
you’re going to take this little flap. You’re going to fold it over, so your stitching is
pretty much going to be on the edge of the fold now, and all you’re going to do is just press
it with your iron. Step 3, turn front lining seam allowances
to outside between clips press. We’re basically going to be doing the same thing we just did,
but now to our lining piece, but the difference is we’re folding it over to the right side
now. So I have the right side of my lining facing up. Again you’re going to take your
flap. You’re going to fold it over, so your stitching is right on the fold line now because
you’re doing it the seam allowance, and you’re going to press it. And you’re going to do
it for both sides of the lining, so with the main piece you’re folding the flap over to
the wrong side and for the lining; you’re folding it over to the right side. Step 4; turn up one and a quarter inches hem
on lower edge of lining. Base close to fold; turn in one quarter inch on raw edge press
stitch close to the inner edge as shown. You’re going take your lining piece and again this
is the front lining. And on the bottom edge here, we’re going to fold up to the wrong
side. So at the wrong side of the lining facing up, I’m going to grab my sewing gauge and
straight pins, and all along this bottom edge go ahead and fold up one and a quarter inches
so I’m just going to measure and once is that measurement I can go ahead, and stick a pin
right, and I’m just going to do all along this bottom part. And then once is all pinned
up, but what we’re going to do is you’re going to use a basting stitch and do all along this
bottom fold real close to that fold line there. For basting on the edge, you’re going to use
your longest machine stitch that you have. The nice thing is you also don’t have to
worry about a back stitch. Its just a temporary stitch to help us do the hem on our lining.
Next, you’re going to take the top of the hem so the raw edge here, and you’re going
to turn it under a quarter of an inch, so then you have about an inch left. You can
go ahead and pin this top part here. After you finished pinning, the whole hem, you can
go ahead and press it, and then we’re going to take it back to the machine because then
we’re going to stitch right along the top of this fold line as well. When I stitch right along the top of this
fold line here, I’m just going to go ahead, and do a regular width stitch this time not
a basting stitch. And you can do a couple of back stitches on both sides because this
one is going to be a permanent stitch in creating this hem. Step 5, pin right side front lining to wrong
side of front matching all centers and symbols baste raw edges together, slip stitch, press
edges together between clips. You’re going to take your lining, and you’re going to lay it
right onto your main fabric on the front. These are both the front. The wrong side of
your lining should be facing up because the right side of the lining goes to the wrong
side of the fabric. So its right side, to wrong side, and then the right of this fabric
is down towards the table. Once its all matching up, and you notice this
obviously its not going to line up with the bottom of this because we went ahead and hemmed
this in the last step. Go ahead and pin these three edges together. You’re going to do a
basting stitch so remember that it’s the longest stitch on your machine, you’re going
to start here, and you can do it at the five-eighths mark again, so you’re going to baste to here,
and then you’re going to stop. Start again here. Baste up, you can go ahead
and pivot, pivot again. You can stop your basting stitch right here. Start it again,
and then baste to at the end right here. You will notice you’re not stitching in these
areas here because I’m going to show you in the next part how to slip stitch these two
pieces close. All right let’s do the slip stitch now. So this is the area remember that
we didn’t do the basting stitch and I went ahead and just pinned it just hold it
for now. I’m going to use a contrasting thread, so
hopefully it will be a little bit easier for you to see. Normally you would like to use
a matching thread so, it shouldn’t show much at all. So you’ll see there’s two different
parts. We have the lining section, the fold on the lining and then you have your main
fabric fold right here. All you’re going to do is you have your needle and your thread.
You’re going to tie a knot at the end of the thread. I’m just going to come on the inside
fold of my lining. Not in my main fabric just my lining only so my needle comes up right
on the fold. There’s my knot. I’m just going to tuck my
knot in there. All right so now I’m on the lining. Now, I’m just going to grab a little
bit of my fabric fold. Try to keep my hand out of the way, and then I would go back and
grab a little bit of the lining so I’m just basically going back and forth between the
two folds, so after the lining, I’ll grab a little bit of the fabric and then back to
the lining until you get to the end, and then you just tie a knot, and don’t forget to
do the other side as well. Step 6, prepare back and back lining sections
in the same manner as front and front lining. Essentially, what we’re going to be doing
is taking our back pieces which is pattern piece number two, and we’re going to do the
exact same thing we just did for the front pieces. So from this piece you’ll make sure
that you cut out two of your lining pieces, and then two of your fabric pieces so you
should have four pieces total. Again we have all of these marks that you need to transfer
on your side seam here so this has like a slight curve there’s going to be two big circles
that’s going to be below the double notch, so just like we did before you’re going to
be doing a stitch at the seam allowance right through the top circle and through the bottom
circle and stop. If we move this out of the way here’s my circles.
I did a stitch and just like before you’re going to go ahead and cut right to your stitching
line. You’re going to do it for your lining. You’re going to do it for your main fabric
and again for the main fabric you’re going to take this little flap. You’re going to
press it to the wrong side of your main fabric, but for the lining you’re going to press it
to the right side of the lining. Then you’re going to create your hem on the
bottom part of both pieces of the lining so you’re folding over to the wrong side of the
lining piece. You’re doing it one and a quarter basting along the bottom fold. Then you’re
going to tuck the right edge quarter of an inch and then do a regular stitch right along
the top of that fold. Pair each of your back lining pieces with your back main fabric pieces.
The wrong side of the fabric piece is going to go to the right side of the lining. Then
you’re going to baste along the side here. You’re not going to baste here where you have
your little square notch so starting here, ending here, starting here going over the
top, and down the bottom. Once your pieces are basted together you’re then going to do
the slip stitch in this area here. Step 7, stitch back sections together at center back
leaving an opening above large circle. These are both my back pieces right side facing
up, so all I’m going to do is take one. I’m going to flip it on to the other one, so they’re
laying on top of each other right sides together. And you’ll see on one side its going to be
a straight edge with a triple notch. This side is more slightly curvy. This straight
edge is going to be our center back so what we’re going to be doing is stitching a seam.
You’re going to do a five-eighth seam starting at the bottom of the skirt, and you’re going
to stop when you get to this large circle above your triple notch so I’m going to do
is just pin from here to here, and then go ahead and do my seam. I’m starting at my large dot here. And I’m
just going to regular width stitch, don’t forget to back stitch making sure I’m at the five-eighths
line now. My basting line was done at the five-eighths line so I’m essentially just
stitching right on top of that. After you finish stitching your seam, make sure that
you press your seam open. Step 8; make five-eighths of an inch, narrow
hem on back opening edges tapering to nothing below large circle. Pivot across seam allowance
one quarter inch below large circle one stitching. We’re looking at the inside of the back. You
can see that I pressed my seam allowance open. Remember everything below the circle is
the seam we just created that’s the one I pressed open it, and everything above the
circle is the opening because we didn’t stitch that part, but I went ahead and pressed
above the circle at the same five-eighths on each side, so it just looks like a press
seam allowance. Now, if you went ahead and press above the
circle as well, then the next step is going to make it a lot easier for you because what
we’re going to do is on each side this side and this side you’re going to take the raw
edge, and you’re going to fold it so the raw edge touches the crease of where your seam
allowance is. So all I’m doing is just lifting it up, folding it to that crease, folding
it back. And then I just pin it into place, and I would do the same thing on this other
side as well. Take the right edge, fold it to the crease
I created when I pressed it open and pin it. Now, you only need to do this,till about
the point where you get to the circle, so if I just got to this point, I can go ahead,
fold it, but then this bottom part you can go ahead and just let it taper back out again.
Let me just raise this a little bit, so I would fold it about here, and then continue
to just let the seam allowance just open back up again because we don’t need to keep folding
it down. The next part what they want you to do is
on one side let’s start with this side. Pretend like this is all pinned. I’m just going to
stitch, a regular width stitch, don’t forget to back stitch right along this fold line
that we’re just creating so start here, and get a stitch right along the fold line. Now,
here’s my circle so I’m going to continue stitching along the fold line until I get
a quarter of an inch below the circle so I probably stop about here, and then you’re
going to stitch across, and this side should also be folded as well. You’re going to pivot and then you’re going
to stitch right along the fold line on the other side until you get to the top and then
go ahead and back stitch again. I’ve already been stitching along one side and you can
see I’m just getting to my large dot here. So I’m going to continue about a quarter of
an inch pass that of course along the folded edge here. And it doesn’t have to be perfect
because it looks like its about a quarter of an inch right there its good. You could see I leave my needle in my fabric.
I left at my foot and then I just turned the fabric and I’m going to just so sew to the
other side until I get to the other fold about right there put my needle in the fabric with
my foot, turn the fabric again and then I’m just going to stitch up until I get to the
other side. Step 9, reinforce side edges the side front
and back to the large circles. Clip to large circles, reinforce and clip side front and
back lining in the same manner. We’re going to be working with piece 3 now. And like piece
number 2 you should have two cut out off your lining, two cut out off your main fabric.
We’re going to be doing the same for all 4 pieces. You will see that we have the large
circles here just like we did before I mean you guys should be experts at this right now. You’re going to be doing your stitching at
your five-eighths mark between the circles. You could see I have already done here and
here, and then you’re going to clip to your stitching right at the circles. Step 10, turn
seam allowances of side front and side front lining to inside between clips. All you’re
going to do is you’re going to turn your little flaps right here so its right where the stitching
is going to be on the fold to the wrong side of the fabric. Now, before when we did this
for the lining you flipped it over to the right side in this particular case for all
four of these pieces you turn it to the wrong side and you press it. Step 11, hem lower edge your side front and
back lining in the same manner as front lining. You’re going to take your lining pieces the
pattern piece number three and just like with the other lining pieces, you’re going to hem
it up one and a quarter inches so I’m folding it up to the wrong side. This is the bottom
of it. You’re going to baste across the fold. Then you’re going to turn over with the raw
edge the quarter of an inch and then do a regular stitch right next to that fold line. Step 12, with right size together a pin lining
to side front and back, stitch upper edge, trim under stitch lining. You’re going to
pair your lining with your main fabric placing the pieces right side together so the right
side of the lining is going to the right side of your fabric, and you’re going to have two
sets of these, so here is one set. All I want you to do is stitch from here along this curve
to here at the five-eighth inch seam allowance which I have already done. Move this guy out of the way. So there you
can see my stitches there at the top. After you finish stitching it all you need to do
is trim your seam allowance because we’re going to be doing a under stitch up here.
So let me go ahead and trim this. And I leave about an eighth of an inch on. Now, also because
its curved. What I also like to do is I’ll clip little notches into the curved areas
being careful and not to cut into your stitches because we don’t want to create any holes. And then we’ll move to the machine so I can
show you what an under stitch is. Here’s the seam I just created. Here’s the trim seam
and my little notches so we’re going to do an under stitch right in the same area. I’m
going to pull apart my lining at my main fabric. So here’s my lining in my main fabric and
you could see where they’re stitched together you’re going to make sure that your seam allowance
again my seam allowance it’s going to stay close, and its going to stay underneath the
lining, so you’re just going to pull all your seam allowance so it lies underneath and the
lining is going in this direction. And then we’re going to start stitching on
the side of the lining right along that seam line, but make sure these stitches are on
the lining side, and it doesn’t switch over to your fabric side because we want to make
sure that our stitches go not only through the lining, but also through the seam allowances
underneath it. For this, I’m going to do a regular width stitch. You can go ahead and back
stitch on both ends, and because its just a little curvy I would take it slow, but that’s
basically all you need to do in order to create an under stitch. Step 13; turn the lining to inside press baste
raw edges together above and below clips. Slip stitch, press edges together between
clips. We’re basically going to take our lining. We’re going to flip it over to the other side
of our main fabric so all this area up here is enclosed and between them, and we’re looking
at the right side of both pieces. So you’re going to make sure that you’re going to press
all along this top part right here, so your main fabric is on this side, and your lining
is on the correct side. And everything is nice and neat up here. We have a nice crisp
curve, then what you’re going to do is you’re going to baste the sides here not where we
had these little notches, but just from here to here same on the side and then from here
down. And I’ve already had one done. So this is
my other one because you have two of them, and you could see my basting stitches and
then all you need to do to finish this up is you’re going to slip stitch these areas.
Step 14, reinforce ends of sleeve through the large circles, clip to large circles.
Stay stitch side edges of sleeve about small circles as shown, turn into seam allowance
between clips press. We’re going to — now we would be working
with piece number 4, so this is the sleeve you should have cut out to out of your main
fabric and you know there’s a variety of marks on this pattern piece. Right now we have these
two big marks on both size, so we have two circles on this side and two circles on the
other side as well. Just like we did with their other pieces, you’re going to want us
stitch through each of these circles, so I would start here. Stitch through and there using
your regular stitch and back stitch because this is where we’re reinforcing that one side. You also notice a small circle here on this
side, and you also have one above the double notch on the other side as well. So you’re
going to start here and you’re going to do your stay stitch which is you’re going to
do a back stitch. You’re going to do a regular stitch at the seam allowance five-eighths
of an inch, and you’re just going to stitch till you get to the top, and then do another
back stitch, so if I remove this pattern you can see I’ve already done it. This is where I started the small circle.
Just did a regular stitch five-eighth seam allowance, stopped here. I did it between
my large circles here, and just like we did before you’re going to clip, and you’re going
to turn it to the wrong side of your fabric and press it, so you’re going to do it on
this side, and you’re also going to do it on that side over there. Steps 15 and 16 are for view A. So we’re going
to skip on to Step 17 to view lower edge of sleeve, stitch one half inch from raw edge.
Turn in and press edge alongside stitching as shown. Trim very close to stitching. Turn
it again along trim edge stitching into place. We’re going to take this one part at a time.
So the first thing is you’re going to get both your sleeves. We have this wide curve
at the bottom of each sleeve piece, and on both of them what you’re going to do is you’re
going to stitch a half inch from the raw edge so you can see my stitches here. They’re half inch away not five-eighths a
half inch. We’re going to start here; you know we’re going to stitch from one end to
the other one. Once you’re done with that, you’re going to fold over to the wrong side
of your fabric, so that the stitching that you just did is going to be right alongside
this fold line. You can still see the stitching because its going to be right next to the
fold line, but you’re just going to press up the whole length of your hem. Next, you’re going to trim to your pressed
up hem, so I have already started here, and this is the part that’s been pressed at, but
you can see that I cut pretty close to my stitch which is right here. So I’m now leaving
about an eighth of an inch. I will see if you leave about an eighth to a quarter on
there that should be fine. And then what you’re going to do is you’re going to take this part
that’s left, and you’re going to fold it over again, so its going to be a very narrow hem
here, and I’ve already started here. All you’re going to do next is just stitched
right along that top fold line there, and you’re going to do it for both sleeves. Steps
18 to 21 are for view B, so we’re going to skip to Step 22. Pin wrong side of sleeves
to right side of side front and back matching symbols baste raw edges together below small
circles, slip stitch, press edges together between clips. Here’s one of my sleeves and
you’re going to be doing this for both sleeves, but I’m just going to show you as an example
for this one. I have wrong side facing up. I’m going to
grab my side front back so that’s — remember this little piece that we did which was piece
number 3. So for both the sleeve we have this little square notches and we have the square
notches as well on our piece number 3 here. This is what we’re going to match up, so you’re
going to take 3, you know turn it over so the right side is facing down to the wrong
side of the sleeve. This is the right side face down to the wrong
side of the sleeve. I’m going to take it over to one side matching up the square notch.
Obviously, its not going to come all the way to the top. Now, we have a single notch on
this side, a double notch on this side. So when I flip this over so the right side is
to the wrong side. I need to make sure I have a single notch on this side, and a double
notch on this side. If its flipped it just means it goes with the other sleeve, so that’s
the only thing you need to pay attention to. So I’m going to match up the square notches.
I got to pin them, and get then make sure that these notches match up so you might to
do some adjustment. Basically, what you’re going to do is you’re going to pin this side
here all the way here. After this side is pinned, you’re going to go ahead and take
this side, and you’re going to match up with the other side of the sleeve. So again I matching my double notch with my double notch, the square notch with the square notch and
pinning from the bottom of the sleeve to here and from here to the top portion here. Now, just like you did with all your other
pieces once these are pinned. You can go ahead and baste the pieces together you can just
fall on the same basting stitch that you have here on your lining. Do the same thing here
so you’re just basting that one side of the sleeve with the side front back. Now, for
these areas again you’re going to slip stitch the folded edges together. Step 23, pin sleeve and side front back to
front back. Matching symbols, clipping sleeve where necessary above the small circles. Stitch
above and below clips as shown. Press seams toward front and back. We’re now going to
attach our sides with the sleeves to the back of the dress and the front of the dress, so
I’m going to and this is my back and I have the right side facing up and I’m going to
grab my two sides so here is one side and here is my sleeves already attached to it,
and then I’m going to grab my other one. And if you look at the back of course we have
the square notch just here on each side of the back we have a double notch and a double
notch. So when I have my sides, right side facing down towards the right side of my back.
I want to make sure I have the same thing, so I’m looking here at my side. I have a double
notch on this side I have a double notch on the inside of both of these I have a single
notch so they’re on the right side. All I’m going to do, I’m going to match the square
notch. I’m going to match my double notches, the bottom of my number three piece here the
side. This outer part is going to go to the bottom
of the back, and your lining piece should also match up. Any symbols that you have on
the side should also match. Now, if we look at this portion here now, this is the top
of the sleeve. It actually fits perfectly with the side seam of our back here. So we’re
going to pin from here all the way down here, and I would do the same thing on the side.
So I would lay it out the top side of the sleeve comes up, and matches the top part
of the back here. So you’re going to start with a regular stitch
don’t forget to back stitch. Your five-eighth then seam allowance stitch here, stop. Start
again here. Stitch down and I would do the same thing on here. Now, we for this particular
case we’re not slip stitching the square notches. So what you’re going to have here, you’re
actually going to have a hole in your seam, and what this is for? Its for when we create
the fabric belt, you’re able to weave it through the dress, so that’s going to be the hole
for the belt. For the curved seams, don’t forget for any
curve seams we do you’re going to cut little triangle notches into the seams just be careful
not to cut into your stitches, so I’m going to go ahead and pin this all together and
we’re going to return like I stitch to end, and then I’m going to show you the next part
of the step. Let’s pretend I already stitched these sides
on to the back. So the next stoop would be to open us up, so I’m looking at the front
or the right side of the top of the sleeve and the side here. Now, this is all of the
rest of my sleeve. I’m just kind of trying to keep it out of the way, so I don’t accidentally
stitch it, got to bring this side out as well. So here’s my back. Here’s my two sleeves.
Here’s my two size, and you can you could see my square notches right here. I’m going to grab my front dress. And I’m
going to flip it so its going to be right side facing down, and then I’m just going
to do the same thing. Could I match up the top of the front with the side of the sleeve,
the square notches are going to match. The regular notch is going to match and the bottom
is going to match here. After this is all pinned, I’m going to drag this over to this
side, and do the same thing again. And then just like we did with our back you’re going
to do a regular five-eighth inch seam here and up here again we’re not slip stitching
the square notches here because that is where our belt is going to weave through when we
finish the dress. Step 24, stay stitch neck edge as shown. So
now we’re dealing with the neckline of our dress, so now its all starting to come together.
We have a front. We have the top of the sleeves. We have the back all they wanted to do is
you’re going to start on one end of the back you’re going to stitch all the way around
and then end here, and you just need to stitch at the half inch line go ahead and do your
back stitches and just do a regularly stitch. Step 25; open up one folded edge bias tape.
Press lightly. Here is the sample of single fold bias tape and you can see its just folded
over on each side. All they want you to do is just take one side. It doesn’t matter
which side and you’re going to unfold it. And then you’re just going to lightly pressing.
You can see I have already done it here. You just want to make sure that your iron is not
too hot because we still want to be able to slightly see the crease because that’s going
to come in handy. And our next step, you can also cut your bias strip so it’s a little
bit bigger than the total of your neckline so you don’t have to do the whole package
as you don’t probably need that much. Step 26, pin bias tape to neck edge placing
crease along the seam line extending and three-eighths on an inch beyond opening edges. Stitch along
crease, trim garment seam even with bias tape. We’re now going to attach our bias tape that
we just pressed open to the right side of our garment. So I turned my dress right outside
out, and you can see I have already started pinning and give a start at one end and pin
it all the way around. And you just want to make sure that both ends you extend the bias
tape, three-eighths of an inch pass the end of the garment. So from here to here its three-eighths
of an inch and I would do the same thing on this side as well. So the bias tape, the side that you can see
the other fold like here is my other fold right here this is the wrong side of the bias
tape so the right side of the bias tape its pinned to the right side of my garment and
the crease that we still have because we didn’t press too hard is going to go at the five-eighths
mark of the neckline. Now, if you have your old basting stitches which I still have from
way back in the beginning I can use that as a guideline because I did that at the five-eighths
line, so I’m just going to follow along with that, and then I’m going to pin it. Once its all pinned all the way around you’re
going to again use the crease as a guideline because you’re going to start here using our
regular width stitch, stitch all the way around the neckline and you’re going to be right
in the groove of that crease. Here is a little bit of a closer look of the bias tape here
you can see my crease so, we’re just going to try to stay right in that crease as best
as we can going all the way around the neckline and don’t forget the back stitch. Lastly
trim your seam allowance so it gets just to the top of the bias tape Step 27 turn bias tape to inside turning under
ends. Press baste in the place; slip stitch ends on outside stitch close to basted edge.
I turned my dress wrong side out again. Here’s the bias tape we just attached. All they want
you to do is on each end, this end, and this end you’re going to fold up your bias tape.
It should fold naturally because its right on that crease that we stitched. You’re going
to take the ends. You’re going to fold them inward so we have a nice clean folded edge
here on the outside and then you’re going to fold this whole thing on to the inside
of the garment. So, on the inside you have the full width
of the bias tape and on the outside you just see your main fabric. Your seam line is right
on that fold line so you’re going to go ahead and do this for the whole neckline and then
go ahead and start pinning this into place because the next part is after its pinned,
you’re going to baste down real close to this folded edge all along the bottom of the bias
tape. Here you can see my basting stitch on the
right side of the garment. So all I would do now is flipping your garment right outside
out, you’re going to do a regular stitch right along side that basting stitch. That’s going
to be your top stitch right there, and that’s going to finish off the collar. I would just
do it on the inside of the basting stitch since I did this right on the fold so this
would be right next to the fold line. Also you’re going to want to slip stitch the ends
here because these are still opened on this side and on this side so I just put a few
slip stitches on there too. Dress D continues with Step 32. Stitch lower
ruffle sections together at ends to gather upper edge of the ruffle as shown. We’re going
to be working with piece number 7 so there’s three of these that you should have cut out
off your fabric on the fold. So when you open it up, it was long one long strip. So you’re
going to take all three pieces and we’ll just take two for now, but what you’re going to
do is you’re going to lay them right side together, so right side to right side and
you’re going to stitch the short end then after its stitched we’ll take this end here. So this is one of the ends, and one of them
that stitch together. I’m going to grab my other one in the place that right side together.
Go ahead and stitch your five-eighths and seam allowance. Now, at this end of the third
one, the short end is now going to be stitched to the end of the first one. So basically
they didn’t get one big circle of these little strips. To finish this step, the last
thing we need to do is to create our gathering stitches so that is creating two basting stitches. You have one at the five-eighths line and
one at the three-eighths line and you’re just going to make sure that you use the largest
stitch in your machine. There’s two rows at the top of the ruffle piece all the way around.
This is going to help us gather the top and create the ruffle. Now, I start one of the
sets in my stitches at the seam line. I have a seam line right here, so I go ahead until
I get to the next seam line, and then I stop and then I start again on the seam line after
that one. That way you’re not just pulling on one set of threads all the way around the
ruffle, but you can just do pieces at a time, so it just makes a little bit easier. Step 33, hem lower as you’ve ruffled in the
same manner as ruffle 5. Essentially what we’re going to be doing on the bottom of our
ruffle piece, remember the top has the gathering stitches and now we’re looking at the bottom
portion of the long edge of the ruffle. We’re going to be doing the rolled hem, and this
is the same hem that we created for our sleeve. So you’re going too, and I have that wrong
side facing up. You’re going to stitch a half inch from the bottom edge of the right edge
of your fabric, then you’re going to fold it up, so you can just see the stitches right
here near to the fold line and you’re going to press it. Then you’re going to trim your seam allowance
which I started doing over here. So you’re leaving just a little bit left near the stitching.
From there you’re just going to roll it up. You can go ahead and pin it or press it if
you wish, and then we’re going to stitch right along that top fold line there completing
the hem. Step 34, pin ruffle to lower edge of dress
placing one seam at center back and remaining seams at large circles on front that just
gathers baste stitch, stitch again one quarter inch away in seam allowance. Trim close to
stitching, press seam toward dress. We’re now going to attach our ruffle to the bottom
of our dress, so this is my dress. This is the bottom. I just have to dress facing upside
down and its right side facing out. Now you’ll notice on the dress front. This is the front
that you have a large circle here, a large circle here. In the ruffle piece there should be three
seams, so we’re going to match one seam from the ruffle with this circle, the second seam
with this circle, and the third with the center back. Now, it doesn’t matter what seam you
start with. Any seam would do. You just need to know seam, seam, and then seam. So I’m
going to pull in my ruffle piece, and we’re going to match right side of ruffle with the
right side of dress and the side that has the gathering stitches that raw edge is going
to line up with the raw edge of the dress, so I could have just find a seam here in my
ruffle. And I have one right here. Here’s the seam.
So I’m just going to match it up with one large circle or with the center back seam.
It doesn’t matter where you start. Grab some pins here and pin it in the place then
I’m going to find my next seam, so I would seam right here going to pin it to the next
circle or the back seam, and then I’m just going to kind of see how it fits, and it seems
like it’s a little big so that’s why we created the gathering stitches, so I’m just
going to pull them out here. And all you’re going to do is pull this stitching
and its going to gather us some more. And that’s what’s going to create the ruffle look.
So you’re just going to have to keep pulling it until it starts cinching in and fitting
the area between these two large circles, and then I would do the same thing by finding
my other seam, and matching it to the back, and then gathering as well, and gathering
this area until the whole ruffle is pinned and attached. Once its all pinned, all you need to do is
first I would baste just attaching the ruffle to the skirt, so then you can take out the
pins after you baste the ruffle to the bottom of this dress, you can stitch your five-eighths
inch seam allowance, then go up a quarter so then that’s going to be three-eighth, so
stitch it five-eighths, stitch at a quarter inch seam allowance. I’m sorry three-eighth
seam allowance, and then you’re going to trim your seam allowance here, so its just above
that second stitch, and then press your seam allowance towards the dress. Step 35, so button to right back opening that
marking. Make thread loop on opening edge, opposite button as shown large enough
for the button to pass through. Now, we’re looking at the top of the back of the dress.
This is our opening to the back. And this is our front dress. The dress is right side
out now if you were to look at the original pattern piece for two, you would notice that
there was an X at the very top of the pattern. This is my X right here. My ink kind of
bled so it doesn’t look like it. What I’m going to do is on the right hand
side I’m going to place my button because that’s where its going to be stitched on.
Now, you can either use a shank button or a flat button. It doesn’t really matter
and if you use a flat button you can either sew it on by hand, or use your sewing machine.
I’m going to sew it on by hand, so I have my needle and thread here. I’m just going
to make sure that when I’m stitching it, I’m coming up from underneath the back here so
my knot is going to be hidden on the inside of the dress, then I’m going to go through
the holes about five or six times to make sure its secure and then finish off by tying
the knot in the back again. On the other side of the opening I’m now going
to create a thread loop, so then I’m able to loop it through the button, so I’m first
going to see about where I want to start my thread loop. I’m going to start it at the
bottom of the button about here, so I’m going to grab my needle and thread, and I’m using
just a long piece of thread that I folded in half and tied the knot at the end, so its
little bit thicker than normal. All right, so I’m actually going to turn this over to
the back, and I’m just going to go through coming up about where I went the bottom of
my loop to start, and pull it through. So you could see now my knot is going to be
hidden on the inside and just to make it a little bit more secured I’m going to go through
this point where my thread came out a couple of times just to anchor the point where I’m
going to do it, just to make it a little bit stronger, okay. So now that’s done, so now
what I’m going to do is I’m going to start here at the top, and I’m going to bring my
needle so it comes out at this bottom point. I’m trying to find out. There we go. Now, I’m not going to pull all the way through
because I want to create the bastes for my loop. So I’m just putting my finger there
to hold it, and then I’m going to test it to make sure that that’s going to be big enough
for my button, so it could probably be a little bit smaller. All right so that looks good.
So now once I have that, I’m going to do the same thing again. So I’m going to start by
going at the top portion of my loop and then coming out at this point down here. Just be careful not to pull this through anymore
because we don’t want to make it any smaller. You know once that’s done we can start the
other part of it. Okay that should be good. So I’m going to put my finger through my loop
to make sure it does getting smaller as I bring the other loop over it, so they’re going
to be about the same size. Here they go. All right so now we’re going to stitch around
the loops in order to make a single loop so you’re going to come through both the loops
and you’re going to be creating another little loop right here, and all I’m going to do is
bring my needle through that loop just be really careful everything stay straight, and
you just essentially tying the knot down here at the bottom so there’s my first part. Then
I’m going go through the loop. You create another loop, so this loop right here and
I’m going to go through it, and that’s going to create second knot, and I’m just going
to keep doing this until I go from one end of the loop to the other end. So I’ll show you one more time. Through the
loop, you create another loop here, and you’re going to go through with that loop. So you
just tying the knot, making sure that the knot is next to the one that you just created
before like that. So as you can see my three knots right there and how is binding all my
strands together you’re basically just doing a blanket stitch around your thread loop here.
So I’m going to start here. Then I’m going to finish here. Step 36, stitch belt sections together leaving
one end open. So now we’re going to be working with our last piece. We’re going to be doing
the belt and then we’re done with our dress, so this is going to be piece number 8. Now
you should cut three out of your main fabric out of this piece. Basically, all we’re going
to be doing is taking all three sections, stitching them together at one end in order
to create one long strip which would be the belt, so I have two of my pieces here. I’m
going to place them at one short end right side to right side, just over a little bit. So, I’m going to go ahead and pin the short
ends stitch a five-eighth seam allowance. Press my seams open. Open this up. Grab my
last piece same thing right size together at the short end, pin and stitch the five-eighth
seam allowance and then press that open, and then that’s it, and you would have one long
strip. Step 37, with right size together fold belt
along fold line, stitch leaving an opening, trim. You got to take your belt strip and
you’re going to lay it all out nice and flat right side facing up. You’re going to take
one raw edge, fold it basically in half in order to meet the other raw edge, and you’re
going to pin all along this side because this is where we’re going to stitch. I’ve started it, and you can see that even
on the short ends, I went ahead and pinned it because what we’re going to do is you’re
going to stitch your five-eighth seam allowance from the top fold line down towards this bottom
edge. You got a pivot, and then you’re going to stitch across the bottom portion here. Now, the thing is we need to leave an opening
because we need to eventually after we stitch this flip our belt right side out, so for me
what I like to do is I’m just picking a point in the middle of my belt. I’m going to take
a couple of pins, make them form an X. And then let’s say about three or four inches
away from that I’m going to do another set. This is going to be an indicator to me where
I do not sew, so I’m going to be stitching along, come to my first X, stop, back stitch
between these Xs, no stitching so that I’m going to start here stitch along the bottom
edge again. Come all the way to the end, pivot and stitch up to the fold line. After you
finish stitching it, you can go ahead and trim your seam allowance, so you could trim
it just to about your stitch line. Be careful not to cut into your stitch line. Last step, Step 38, turn press slip stitch
opening so you’re going to take your belt and from the opening you’re going to flip
the whole thing right side out, and you’re going to press it. Now, with the opening I’m
just turning in the raw edge on each side the five-eighths of an inch, and then you’re
going to pin the opening close, and all that’s left to do is just to slip stitch the opening
and then your belt is complete, and your dress is complete. Don’t forget to remove all your basting
stitches and your fabric markers. This has been McCall 6690. We know that any little
girl who is lucky enough to receive this dress is going to be beautiful in it. Make sure
to check out our other videos and visit ProfessorPincushion.com to view our complete library well over a 150
sewing video tutorials. New tutorials are released regularly. So make sure to subscribe
to be notified of the next release. Thanks for watching.

25 Replies to “Girl’s Dress – McCall’s Pattern 6690”

  1. nice and simple but its hard to get mcCall's pattern here.so nice for my grandaughter.im going to make my own block but follow your tutorial.tq

  2. I really like peasant dress's and tops. This looks like so much fun. I have so many nieces and I think this will go over well. Each of them are with 3 months of each other.

  3. What an absolutely fabulous tutorial – as are all of your others – they are so clear and easy to understand, I have used them many times.

  4. I got my pattern! Thank you very much! Will need to pick a pretty fabric for my daughter, she is a picky one.

  5. Love the links that are specifically for the steps! As always, very descriptive and easy to follow. Care to share what material you used [always a struggle for me: voile, chiffon, etc]? Thanks for all the great tutorials… the girls in my family are always thrilled with the final products!

  6. We love your videos sew much that I am doing a Sew ALong on my FB page!

    The page is Sew Different! We'd love for you all to join and show your amazing outfits!

  7. We have longer ones, but that's what happens when you show how to make a dress from beginning to end. We also have a step breakdown in the description if you want to see a particular step. This is what we do here at Professor Pincushion. 🙂

  8. Great tutorial I am going to order the pattern and sew along to the video, this will be my most complex project so far. Quick question though, at the end of the video you say to ensure that all basting stitches are removed, does this mean that ever single basted hem etc in the whole garment has to be taken out? And what if they want to come out if they have been stitched over etc. Sorry if this is a really dumb question. Nikki

  9. Basting stitches are normally just temporary stitches to hold things into place until you do a smaller, more permanent stitch. When I say remove basting stitches, you typically only have to remove the basting stitches that are obviously showing on the right side of the garment, so that everything looks neat and finished. If the basting stitch is caught within the seam, you can just leave it. Good luck and I'd love to see a picture when you finish! 😀

  10. I have been struggling working with the chiffon. Someone told me to try spraying the fabric with starch or hairspray and it has worked. Fabric is much more stable for sewing.

  11. wow! Great tip! Thanks! Just to be safe, I would only do it on washable fabrics because I would eventually like to get the hairspray smell out and you have to be careful with dry clean only fabrics as they can get waterspots. 🙂

  12. Professor Pin Cushion I think you are left handed and if so , could you please do a video demo of how to do the Herringbone hand stitch for the left handers. I would appreciate this as I believe other lefties will as well. Thanking you in advance.

  13. This is a great tutorial. Is it possible to have the written instructions that appear on the pattern listed right next to the steps that you wrote underneath the video? I am using a different pattern and don't understand some of the instructions, so it would be amazing if your pattern instructions would be written down next to each of the steps so that I can just skip to the part that I need to see how to do.

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