[Gunpla LAB] EP.1 Seam,Weathering,Top Coat, A Beginner’s Guide (Eng Sub)

[Gunpla LAB] EP.1 Seam,Weathering,Top Coat, A Beginner’s Guide (Eng Sub)

GUNZIZAK TV GUNZIZAK TV Translated by : Alexdadoof (알렉스 김) Produced by Gundam Studio Korea Hello Everyone, I am Professor Lee of Gundam Studio. I’m known online as Smong Guitar SeongDong Lee aka: Smong Guitar
Currently striving to promote the hobby in any way he can. We here at Gundam Studio have decided to start up Gunzizak TV The point of this venture was to answer questions that you: the viewers-ask us, and answer them But being our first video…We don’t have any questions!
So, we thought about what you guys might want ask or want to learn We came to the conclusion that we should cover the basics on how to make a simple kit look like great. So, we’re going to try our best to show you as simply as we can In a second, we’ll start teaching you how to make a simple kit like this: Look like a battle-tested warrior like this! Gundam Studio This is a simple snap built HG Origin Zaku 1 [ Tip 1 Seam Line Removal] The first thing I will show you is seam line re moval Tip 1 Seam Line Removal It is the line that forms in the spacing between two parts We’re going to start by removing that seam line. Begin by separating the parts with a parts opener and get your modeling plastic cement ready It melts the plastic, so make sure to apply a good amount, because we’re going to sand away the excess anyway Next, push the parts together and hold firmly until the cement pops out of the seams. He wouldn’t stop talking while he waited for the cement to dry… Next, we’re gonna take a 180 grit sanding stick/sponge and sand down the excess cement. Again, he won’t shut the fxxk up while he’s sanding… Q.If you use rough sand paper, won’t it leave deep scratches? Yes, that’s why I have this (400 grit) sanding stick. You work your way up to finer grits. Little by little, you can bring it to a shine
600 grit>800>1000 and so forth He’s bringing out a shine to the part with his mouth again.. Let’s see what we have now Of course, we can still see a little bit of the line, but it has become a lot cleaner Now, we have step 2, Panel-Lining Tip #2 Panel Lining Some people use a Panel lining pen… When you use a pen, you end up with thick pen marks. (THIS IS NOT A SKETCHBOOK) Tamiya makes Panel Line Accent Color. To be honest, this is much more economical than the pen How much was this? 4 bucks?… I think it’ll last you a couple years (Anyways, it’ll last til you die) POINT #1: SHAKE vigorously before use as the paint often settles on the bottom. POINT #2: Wipe on the sides first, before application! If you don’t take off the excess, you’ll end up with big issues. This is what we call Panel-Lining. Let’s drop some.Just make a quick dab in a place like this. KkgKggKGKKgG~~ Did you see that? It just spreads along. When you get a PERFECT spread. The feeling is amazing. Kkkkkggggkkkkkk~~~~ Q.What do you call that feeling? Per… PER-GASM??? ROFL~ LOLLLL KI-MO-CHEEEEEEEEEEE~~~~~ KI-MO-CHEEEEEEEEEEE~~~~~ (2) Kkkggkkkk~~ Amazing….! After you apply your Per-gasm… I mean Panel liner- When you do your clean-up of the overspill, get some cotton swabs/Qtips and Enamel Thinner. Warning: Don’t soak your swabs with enamel thinner. You could crack the plastic parts, or even erase the panel line or paint. I’m going to erase the overspill like so. Just lightly dab. It looks a lot more detailed and sharp. [TIP #3. Partial Painting and Detailing] Next, we will talk about Partial Painting I think this might be the most asked-about topic from most of you. We’re going to work with the easily accessible and versatile Gundam Marker I’ll show you how to partially paint, using a Gundam Marker. Instead of using the markers to cover a whole kit, we use it on metal piping like on the Heat Hawk (Pipes, Verniers, Magazines, and other small enhance-able parts) …and other places like that to give details more accents. First, we need to shake this Gold Marker A LOT. (Shake it! Shake it!) Just simply slap it on there! Pretty simple ain’t it? You don’t need to be King Midas to give it a golden touch… Was that not funny? (Oh God, please spare us the terrible jokes~! ) In thecase of the Heat Hawk, painting the edge like a blade is also an option In the case of really small details Press down on the tip of the marker like this to make it leak,
and use a brush to paint small areas. Detail Up! Realism Up! Partial Paint Done! [Tip #4 Sticker application] Up next is Decals With decals panel lining, your kit will look exceptional. There are a lot of people who put on stickers by hand. By using a pair of tweezers, the adhesive will stay on the kit longer. Use a pair of tweezers for stickers. Once you take off the sticker, try to get the placement on the first try. Afterwards, grab a Qtip and flatten the sticker flush to the part. If you just stick it on, it’ll become white and fall off later on. Press firmly down on the sticker with a Qtip to insure a good seal. Line up the sticker, and finish with the Qtip! Even if you don’t want to bother with dealing with all the smaller decals, it’ll give you a much better result. There are probably many of you who already know Partial Paint, Panel Lining, Stickers will give you a decent enough result. From here is the step you take to surpass the ‘toy’ level and go onto a ‘model’ Gundam Studio [Tip #5 Top Coat – Matte ] This is the ever popular Matte Top Coat This gets rid of the plastic-like shine that all model kits have – giving it a nicer finish. Lets try it out on this kit. First disassemble the parts and put them on alligator clips for spraying. Ensure a good tight grip on all the pieces. After we shake up the can, lets go paint the kit. Paint?? I mean top coat it… Shake ShakeShake Shake it Mania~~ When topcoating use a spray booth, if you don’t have one – go outside to a place with no wind. SeongDong Vader TRANSFORM!!!!! Always use a mask when spraying anything to protect yourself from harmful fumes After giving it a good shake, From ~30cm away, spray and move PAST the part you’re spraying. Press down firmly on the spray head to avoid sputtering of the spray. Never staying in one place too long, Spray before – and PAST the part. By turning the clip, spray evenly without soaking any one area. Let dry for at least 20 minutes~ FINISHED~ This is now a top coated Origin Zaku 1 The color looks much better now doesn’t it? BEFORE AFTER The plastic shine is much more subdued giving it a nicer texture. [Tip #5 Weathering?! It’s not that difficult~] The next step is weather. Its purpose is to depict exposure to the weather and the elements as well as battle wear and tear. There are many different techniques, but this is the simplest one to begin with. This is a weathering Pastel Even if you don’t have this specific product, using art pastels is possible. Before weathering: Applying MATTE TOP COAT is highly recommended. If you don’t top coat, the smooth plastic of a bare kit makes it hard for the pastel to adhere. When you open the weathering pastel kit, It looks like an applicator from your mom’s make-up kit. If you don’t have one, just steal one from your sister. We take no responsibility If you get caught stealing your sister’s make-up tools First apply a darker color first. Apply to the edges and corners of the kit as Applied too much? Just brush off with the other side of the applicator It’ll look good even if you just apply freely on the edges. The feet will obviously be quite dirty. Only applying dark colors will look strange, so we use a brighter color. This will look like sand and dust. It’ll look great with just simple pastel weathering. Next, is my special technique I’ll show you. Tip #6 Sponge Chipping / Dry Chipping It’s not difficult. You can do it with household sponge products lying around. First rip off a piece. Since this is for beginners, we’ll just use a Gundam Marker (Enamel paints are better) First take a Black Gundam Marker and leak out some paint. Dip the sponge into the paint, and dab off if it’s too wet. Focusing on the edges, just dab on to create a little scratching and damage effect. Think about areas of common wear and tear. If you want a less subtle approach, just apply more. Try to keep an even balance on where you weather. Using a variety of different colors will add to a more realistic finish. For areas with deeper damage, use silver to depict metal scratching. Use the silver on the darker areas for contrast. Even with minimal effort and simple techniques, you’ve got a great looking kit. Now he looks like he’s come back from flying around in space. Creating the illusion of experiencing battle Simple Toy> Clean Model > Battle-Tested Warrior So, in our first episode, we’ve simply closed seam lines, applied panel liner, partial paint, and weathering. I’m Professor Lee here to solve all your Gunpla questions and needs. Please Like and Subscribe to see more content on our new channel. If you have any questions you want us to answer,
feel free to ask them (in English) below in the comments below. We’re gonna wrap up our first episode here, Thank for watching! Please Like and Subscribe I guess I’ll see you again soon~~~~ Produced by Gundam Studio Korea

100 Replies to “[Gunpla LAB] EP.1 Seam,Weathering,Top Coat, A Beginner’s Guide (Eng Sub)”

  1. 건프라 연구소입니다. 건담이 지키는 작업실에서 건프라 연구소로 이전 오픈하였습니다 🙂 앞으로도 잘부탁드려요!!
    건프라 연구소 : 서울 마포구 양화로6길 50 3층

  2. 저이박사님 제가건담을처음으로 만들라고 하는데 뭐부터시작해 야하나요

  3. 86년 겨울 Z건담에 심취했다가.. 사는게 무언지 무려 30년만에 다시 건프라 시작했습니다. 바로 이 강좌~ 신의 한수네요! ㅎㅎ 그때 그시절만 생각해서 도색부터 다 해야 하나 걱정했는데.. 시간은 안되고.. 고민이었는데.. 이 강좌대로 따라해서 요새 쏠쏠한 재미 보고있습니다. 30년만에 추억을 다시 만들어 가니 좋네요! 고맙습니다 .구독눌렀습니다.

  4. This is really helpful, it helped me buy the right products. thank you for the subtitles. great work I subscribed

  5. 전 웨더링이 왜 하는건지 잘 몰랐고 더럽다고만 생각했는데 영상을 보니 왜 하는지 알겠네요… 리얼한 맛이 사는게 정말 너무 멋진 것 같아요 ㅎㅎ 작업 오려주셔서 감사합니다.

  6. Hi, very informational tutorial. I noticed that you didn't put top coat after the weathering, is it okay to top coat again just to be sure the weathering wont smudge off? Thanks!

  7. 어 나 주말 아침에 씰붙이다가 (이땐 핀셋 없었음) 접착 안되서 겁나 욕하다가 엄마 깨서 영원히 건담 못만들 뻔….

  8. The video is very useful for newcomers (such as me). I'm about to get my RG zaku and i want to make him look well. Because of your video i have chance to make it look better than regular built model like i normally do (I've built few tank models). I was worried about weathering. I didn't want to destroy the model but because of you I'm not afraid. The methods you show look very easy and with the pastels it looks too easy. YOU are the first one that made me want to try weathering the kits.

  9. 진짜 유익하네요 ㄷㄷ 먹선펜으로 먹선만 넣을줄알았지 웨더링도 간단하게 할수있는거였네요 ㄷㄷ

  10. 박사님 궁금한게있습니다 도색접시 사용후 도료가남는건 물로씻어내나요 아님 휴지로 닦으면되나요?

  11. 와 ! 건프라 입문자인데 너무 도움이 되었습니다. 어려울수도 있는 작업을 굉장히 쉽게 설명해주셔서 너무 좋네요~

  12. Thanks for all the videos and the tips within them. You inspired me to start building gunpla and I am officially addicted.

  13. Hello i'm new subscriber from indonesia, tks for the tutorial its very helpfully, i have questions, how about weathering before coating?

  14. 취미가 시절에는 없었던 새로운 아이템들과 새로운 기법.. 흥미롭습니다. ^^

    에나말 2~3가지색 조색해서 신너에 희석해서 넣던 먹선들..ㅋ
    평붓 끝 잘라서 거칠게 만들고 신나게 문질렀던 드라이브러싱
    접합선 수정은 무조건 퍼티로
    사포는 공구상가에서 구입해서 일일이 작은 나무블럭 만들어서 거기에 감고 문질렀었고..
    스프레이브스 따위는 꿈도 못꾸던 시절 무조건 날씨좋은날 옥상에서 신문지깔고 스프레이 뿌렸고..

    당시는 프라모델 하면 무슨 오따구 취급받던 시절이었죠..

    좋은 영상 감사합니다. ^^

  15. 박사님!!
    저는 자쿠, 구프, 등 지온군 기체(?)를 좋아하는 5학년 초딩입니다!!
    얼마전 일본에서
    제가 좋아하는 샤아+제가 좋아하는 자쿠=샤아자쿠를 샀는데요^^
    아빠가 보고 좋아하셨으면 좋겠어요!!
    (아빠가 이박사님 팬, 건담, 마크로스 덕후)
    이박사님 앞으로도 파이팅 하세요!!

  16. Thank you I learned so much more even to use woman's products for the gundams and thank you for having English subtitles I love your Channel my brother builds a lot of Gundams and I'm going to show him this video that he can also start watching your videos as well again thank you new subscriber

  17. 이 박사님 PG건담 을엄마 아빠가 사줜어요 제가 조립을 했어요 8시간 넓었어요 이박사 님이직젋 만들어주세요.

  18. 근데 붓 어떻게 딱나여..? 어디서 본것도 같고 잘몰르겠는데 알려주시면 안돼나여?

  19. 도움되는 영상입니다 조립하고 데칼작업 끝나면… 그냥 그대로 두는게 이쁘다 생각했는데 이렇게 작업해주니 훨씬 멋지네요

  20. This an awesome guide for a beginner to GUNPLA. Some other beginners guide are a little too advanced and require a bunch of paints.

  21. is it ok to put another layer of top coat after weathering the kit? I mean, won't the weathering powder come-off from touching?

  22. Question: After using the Tamiya Enamel Accent, do we need to clean off the excess immediately with thinner or wait until it dry then use the thinner?

  23. 마커가 손에뭇으면 잘안지워지는데 어떻게 지워요?(답변을해드리면 감사하겠습니다. )

  24. Thanks for the tutorial. 1 question. When I applied Matt finish (with spray cans), it always leave a frosty white coat after dry. Tried many brands of Matt Coat with same outcome.
    Did I do it wrongly or I have not come to a brand that works properly? Hope to hear the remedy from the good professor.

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