How Pants Should Fit – Ultimate Guide To Mens Dress & Suit Trousers – Gentleman’s Gazette

How Pants Should Fit – Ultimate Guide To Mens Dress & Suit Trousers – Gentleman’s Gazette


Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! In
today’s video, we discuss how pants or trousers should fit specifically dress pants. Finding a perfect fit for pants is a huge
challenge and although most people look at the jacket, it’s a more difficult garment
to fit, getting pants to fit properly is very very difficult as well and often neglected.
For one, you want the pants to be not too loose and not too baggy but also not too tight
or skin tight. You want a proper inseam length which means it’s neither too short nor too
long. You also want the right circumference around your waist, your seat, your thigh,
your knee, and your ankle. Overall, a perfectly fitting pair of pants has no wrinkles and
clean lines. Especially if you have pleats or just an ironed crease. Pleats can open
up a little bit underneath the waistband but they should never gap especially around your
thighs and the top part of the pants. From the back, you should always have clean lines,
there should be no break, neither on the knees or the calves, or thighs, and it should just
flatter your overall look. In my experience, pants that sit higher on the natural waist
and not on the hips have a much better natural fit, drape, and they are also more comfortable.
Also, a pair of suspenders might come in handy because it allows you to have a waist that’s
a little wider, it’s more comfortable when you have a big lunch or dinner but at the
same time, the pants stay at the same height all day long. The disadvantage of suspenders
is that you can feel them on your shoulders and some men find that uncomfortable. Personally,
I don’t mind the feel and I like the clean consistent look of my pants all day long.
To understand the proper fit of pants, we have to take a the look of the components
of trousers. First, you have to look at your waistband.
Basically, it’s a strip of fabric around your midsection and traditionally, in the 30s,
20s, those were cut really high because the natural waist is a good point to have trousers
so they stay up and it creates a clean, long leg line that is flattering because it makes
you look taller. Ten, fifteen years ago, a waistband was typically about 1/2 – 2 inches
wide. Recently, it has become very popular to have very wide waistbands so sometimes
you can see 3, 3 1/2, sometimes even 4 inches of waistbands with buttoning points. I personally
believe that’s a fashion trend that will vanish rather quickly. Something that you rarely
see and that usually you can only get bespoke or custom made, by the way, check out our
video here about the terminology if you’re not sure what it means. Something that you
can only get custom made is a pair of pants without a waistband. What that means is you
don’t have that extra piece of fabric but your pants come up all the way and then they
open up with pleats. It’s a very elegant style but it’s only available bespoke and sometimes
you can find it with a half waistband in the back or sometimes with no waistband at all.
Most of the time, you’ll only find that with suspender buttons but you can also find it
with belt loops. Bespoke aficionados want to be different, usually go for the style
without the waistband. The next area is the front or the seat. So
the seat is in the back, the front is in the front. it can be a tricky area if you have
a bigger bum like I do. the next thing to pay attention to is the
so-called rise. The rise is measured from the front of your waistband to the back of
your waistband going through your crotch. Now, a pair of pants that has a high rise
has a longer measurement and a low rise has a shorter measurement. One aspect of pants that depends on the current
fashion is the fit. If you go back to the 20s, they had Oxford bags which are cut extremely
wide, lots of volume, lots of fabric. if you look at today, you have rather slim pants
and actually, they are quite similar to the 1920s, however, in the 20s, they had a higher
rise versus now, you usually find lower rise trousers that are very skiny. So while the
outside seam of your pants depends on the rise, the isneam of your pants always remains
the same. It’s a great measurement to know by heart when you buy new pants because if
you know the pants are too short and there’s not enough material to let them out, they
will never be able to fit you properly. At the same time, if the pants are too long,
you can always accurately hem the,m to the exact right length even if you don’t have
the proper shoes on. Although, if you go to an alterations tailor, I always suggest to
have the shoes on that you’re actually going to wear with that pants which would mean a
pair of dress shoes with dress pants and not flip flops. And now the big question, how should pants
fit? A classic pair of pants should never have
any puckering, pulling, or wrinkling. A wrinkle that shows that something is too tight is
usually in the shape of an X and so you can always tell “Oh, something is too tight here
and needs to be let out.” Of course, you can only do that if there’s enough fabric to let
the pants out. Back in the day, tailors would use heavier fabrics that draped really well
and would create a clean, nice look. Today, most fabrics are very lightweight because
most people assume that they are too hot. The flip side is that those fabrics even if
they’re high-end, will never drape as well and wrinkles will be much more apparent. So
unless your pants are custom tailored y a very experienced custom tailor, even made
to measure pants can look off and wrinkly simply because the fabric is too thin. So
it’s one thing to keep in mind. You also want no ripples or lines that are horizontal, vertical,
or diagonal on the waist, on the seat, or on the pants themselves. Sometimes what happens
is you have legs that are either x shaped or o shaped and that can cause wrinkles if
the pants are not tailored accordingly. The second hallmark of well-fitting pants
are the pleats. If you have a single center pleat, it should go down all the way to your
shoe in one straight sharp creased single line and it should just slightly open up on
top. It’s just a beautiful look and you can always tell if something is custom made by
the way the pleats hang. The number of pleats really changes with fashion. Two pleats is
great maybe even one pleat is a little more popular right now. Sometimes you see people
with three pleats or more pleats, as long as you stay in the middle, you’ll always be
classic and will never go out of style. Pleats are particularly helpful if you have a big
bum like I do because it gives you extra room and so the pants can hug you on your waistband
without being too tight when on your seat. most of the time, pleats face outwards which
is just a fashion style. Personally, I think it’s better for them to be faced inwards because
they open up when you walk, that’s more comfortable and I also find the look is more elegant. Three, the line of the pants should be straight.
there should be no breaks in the front or in the back except for the amount of break
on top of your shoe in the front. Now if you want to learn more about please check out
our video on pants breaks here. The fourth thing I look at in pants is the
knee area because if the crease hangs straight center in the front and in the back, you know
you have a well-cut pair of pants. If it’s slightly off to the side, to the outside or
to the inside, you know an alterations tailor will have to make adjustments. So how can you ensure you get pants that fit? Well, for one, you can go and have them tailored
to a true custom tailor. That’s a very expensive proposition. very few people can afford that
and it’s not realistic for most of us. That being said, even if you have tailored pants
you can still opt with not so well-fitting pants especially for the first pair and it’s
a process that you need to be part of and understand and don’t expect perfect results
right off the bat. If you buy pants off the rack, bear in mind
that they will never fit you perfectly and you have to go to an alterations tailor. There
is simply no perfect fit off the rack because you are not symmetrical, you’re a human being
and as such, there are always slight variations that are never considered in a standard off
the rack pants pattern. Of course, the fewer alterations you have
in a pair of trousers, the better.As such, if you have a brand or a specific fit in a
brand where you know it fits you well around the waist and has enough room for your big
thighs, then you should stick to that brand and then have just made these alterations
over and over again, that way you ensure you get a consistent fit without having to spend
too much money on a tailor. Now fixing pants in an alterations tailor
seems easy and most of them just do hemming or lengthening or taking the waist in or out
but there are probably about 23 different things you can do depending on the wrinkles
you see and we will do a separate video about how to fix pants so stay tuned! Whenever you have pants altered, make sure
you wear the accessories that you will wear later. Which means a belt, if it has belt
loops or suspenders if it has suspender buttons. A pair of dress shoes or boots if that’s what
you’d wear with it afterwards, or maybe a pair of boat shoes if you think that’s what
you are going to wear with it. On the waistband, you want to avoid a so-called
muffin top. That means your waistband is too tight and your belly fat hangs over. Of course,
your figure may change over time and having a pair of pants that has an extra reserve
in it really helps to change it so you can always wear it. Traditionally, tailored garments
have a lot more fabric reserve then especially inexpensive off the rack garments and that’s
the beauty of going custom because even if you change your physique, the pants will still
be able to fit you. On the flip side, your pants are too big if
you can pinch more than about half an inch to an inch. If you wear suspenders or braces
as they’re called sometimes, you can get away with an inch or maybe an inch and a half that
just creates more room, is more comfortable but you may have problems with your shirt
coming unticked depending on how your pants and your lining interact with your shirt and
how long your shirt is. To learn more about that part and how you get a shirt that stays
tucked in, please check out this video. A common issue that you can see in the front
and in the seat are X wrinkles. That’s a sure sign that something is too tight and you need
to let some things out. On the other hand, if you see excess fabric draping around those
areas, it means it’s too big and they need to be taken in. In terms of cut, you know that your pants
are too tight when the fabric clings to your socks and you get these uncharacteristic wrinkles
especially after yousit and stand again. Sometimes it’s necessary to pull down your pants. in
that case, I would either suggest you go with a pants lining that helps to slide back down
or you simply get a pair of pants that’s cut a little wider so it can naturally hang. A pair of pants or cuffs help to pull down
the fabric so you have clean lines.When you see a lot of material around your thighs,
it’s flopping around or material that’s bunched up on top of your shoe, it means your pants
are too long and too wide and you have to have them fixed. The problem is if it’s too
extreme, you can’t do that so consult with an alterations tailor will be able to help
you. Next up is the inseam. There are lots of people
who have different opinions on what the perfect trouser length is. I believe that a slight
break in the front is the perfect look, you can also go without any break whatsoever but
my personal preference is to have a slightly angled hem because it allows you to have that
little break in the front but a really long pair of pants in the back is just the most
elegant look of all. Now, these are just a few points and we have
a lot more in our in-depth guide on our website. so check that out, here. Overall, you may think this is a lot of things
for such a simple garment and yes, our standards are quite high and personally, I would say
that I only have two pairs of pants that I think fit perfectly for me so high standards
are a good thing because there is always something you aspire to but don’t be afraid and here
are a few final tips that help you in getting pants that will fit well. Do not buy goal pants because chances are,
you won’t get it in the shape you want at a point in time so the pants will never fit
and stay in your closet. Do not be afraid of pleats. Most men today
think that pleats are outdated but in fact, you should just look at your body and if you
have bigger thighs, a bigger seat, pleats are always more advantageous for you. If you
are skinnier and thinner you don’t need pleats but they can still look good. In the same vein, don’t ve afraid of cuffs
or turn ups because they provide extra weight at the bottom of your pants so they pull them
down and help you to have a clean pants line. That is especially true if you go with a thinner
fabric. Sometimes you can even add a little bit of weight that is sewn into your cuffs
that help you create those beautiful elegant lines. No matter if you buy bespoke or off the rack,
or made to measure, it helps to know your measurements so you can immediately see if
something is off at the alterations tailor or when the pair of pants are ordered. The
most important measurement to remember is the inseam length because that should never
change and if that’s off, the look is bad. When you buy pants off the rack, don’t take
the pant size at face value. That is especially true when you buy it off the rack because
every brand has a different understanding so size 34, 32, can be very different at Ralph
Lauren than at is at Levi’s for example. So, always measure the pants and try on different
things so you know you get the fit that suits you best. Don’t squeeze into the 32s because you want
to be a 32 when in fact, you are a 36. just because you are a 32 in one brand does not
mean you are in the other. That’s why you have to try them on and measure because that’s
what’s actually there. if you enjoyed this video, please check out
our guide and sign up for our newsletter so videos like this come right to your inbox. Stay tuned for our next one!

100 Replies to “How Pants Should Fit – Ultimate Guide To Mens Dress & Suit Trousers – Gentleman’s Gazette”

  1. Very Informative as always. Please make a video on your tailor taking your measurements. Tips on how you can make sure measurements are done perfect. Thank you.

  2. Would you say pants can be more a matter of choice than a jacket? For example, im a young fit man and I like to have my trousers slim with no break. I think it looks really good

  3. Great video as per usual. Can you please do one on matching different coloured waistcoat, trousers and jacket? It appears to be considered tricky but some chaps seem to pull it off successfully. Is there a secret to matching three distinctly different coloured pieces? Also, could you do a video on safari jackets?

  4. Nice going. I was just about to go in next week for trouser fittings. I had a higher rise in mind. However, I'm concerned how my neckties might end up looking too long because of that.

  5. Thank you! I was so tired of people telling me that my trousers should be tight, which is why i stopped wearing any. I didn't like that they didn't drape, and just felt uncomfortable.
    Please do Jeans Next!!!
    Thank You

  6. In my recent experiences it has become exceedingly more difficult (and more annoying) to find slacks that sit high among the waist, especially since I have lost an amount of weight around my waist due to exercising. I wear a 30" and to correspond with Sven about racks, I always run into off the racks from 32" down always seem to be low rise.

    I have went to tailors but sometimes they ask me why I should want a higher rise when low rise is currently "popular". I always tell them I think it looks silly on me.

  7. The picture of the brown suit at 6:35 is not good. You can't see the pleats properly.

    Also I have some doubts they didn't use lighter materials în the past like they use today for summer clothes. During summer things were a bit more casual.

  8. Hey bud, I am feeling the need to get a hat here in El Paso. I don't want a cowboy hat though. Are there do's and dont's to hats? Certain hats for suits? Please help a hillbilly out.

  9. Sven's style is similar to mine. I prefer relaxed fit pants that sit higher at the waist like on the belly button. Last week I wore suspenders with a loose-fit pair of khakis and it was the most comfortable I have ever been. I wish they made more loose pants, no disrespect to anyone who prefers slim fit pants, it just forces designers to make pants slimmer.

  10. I bought a Hickey Freeman suit at a high-end department store, and had to have it tailored again 6 months later. The pants were lengthened an inch.

  11. I hate pants, so hard to find quality pants for less. Custom is not in my budget at the moment. Make Kilts great again

  12. I wear suspenders but some suspenders make the pants ride up the back and I get a wedgie. Do you know if it's the suspender's problem? or my body shape problem?

  13. Could you do a video about dressing gowns, smoking jackets and other similar articles of clothing ( I have already read your article on your site)?

  14. Love the Channel, since I discovered gentleman's gazette you have really helped me elevate my wardrobe. Keep the excellent videos coming

  15. Thanks for the very informative video. I like how you admitted that you only have 2 pairs of pants that actually fit perfectly. That type of cantor is greatly appreciated and makes your videos very credible. I will look forward to your future posts.

  16. Enjoyed this information thoroughly quite a lot of helpful tips on getting the proper fitting trousers….in one of the clips in the video I notice a pair of pants with a fishtail waist which I find is superb for wearing with suspenders can you recommend where I can get a pair similar to those thanks.

  17. It always looks bad when big guys with beer guts wear their pants below the belly button and allow that same gut to hang out when doing those tuck ins. That's why it's always safe to wear them around the belly button when tucking in shirts. However, most skinny guys never encounter that problem and can wear them below the belly button. But I always believe that dress pants should always be worn around the belly button no matter what the size or age of the guy.

  18. I get so tired seeing the men models that are pencil skinny were pants that are 2 sizes to small and are to high above the shoe. Like this is the gold standard!

  19. Hi, I just bought a pair of navy dress pants. They do not have pleats.  When I have them shortened would I have cuffs or no cuffs?  Thank you.

  20. Gentleman's Gazette: Could you make a video on ZOOT suits ? That would be awesome and talk a little of the history of it. Don't forget the infamous Zoot Suit riot on L.A. back on 1943.

  21. It was a great comfort to hear that even sensei Sven only has two pair of pants that fit perfectly. It surely is a lot to consider!
    Thanks for a great video. This is the only chanel on youtube that I really trust when it comes to clothes!

  22. Your pants is so big, especially at the bottom part ,it covers almost half of your shoes,I think ur style is betwn 1920's-1950's.

  23. Makes me laugh when American chaps talk about pants. In British (Queen's) English pants is underwear. We simply say 'trousers'.

  24. When I was younger I used to just buy OTR and not give a crap about the fit. Now that I’m older and more experienced with fashion thanks to these videos, I am obsessed with the perfect fit so I need to tailor every piece of clothing I own. Even my condoms are now tailored fit to accommodate my slight curvature. I have an exclusive contract with Kimono.

  25. Why are all the pants pleated? I strongly prefer flat front with a slimmer tailoring. You can always have them tailored to fit most shapes and maintain a more modern look. Is there another reason for the pleats other than more room or is it just preference?

  26. Sven where did you have the trousers on this video made? I want to get some made to order or bespoke trousers whats the best option if im in the USA?

  27. I have a somewhat unique but serious question, and I was hoping you, or someone else can help me.

    While I am (biologically) male, I have the waist/hips measurements of 29 inches/35 inches. This creates a female-like hourglass shape. The problem is that if I wear pants on my waist, the curves will show. So, according to some suggestions on the internet for transmen (many of whom have this problem), we should wear pants on the hips instead to reduce the look of curves. However, this then makes the crotch look baggy and horrible.

    I am thinking of having custom made pants (doesn't have to be dress pants, could be chinos, etc). But I have no idea to what to say to the tailor who may not have experience with customers like me. I have been trying to locate tailors in my area who have experience with transmen, but to no avail.

    My questions are: 1) what might be your suggestions for making a pants for people like me? 2) what should I say to the tailor? Thanks!

  28. I'm loving these videos. I have two questions. 1. Do you measure you inseam from where your legs connect to torso or from the bottom of any…external anatomy? Second question; Who is your tailor in Minnesota?

  29. I bought Advantage suits three buttons.. the jacket matches the pants it looks bad it was belonged to a tall man and I'm 5-8 should I get it alter or forget about it? thank you so much

  30. What is this obsession with slim fit trousers???!!!bleugh…most men have skinny legs and it is really unatractive

  31. 1. This kind of advice on dress suits is priceless.
    2. There is something strangely malevolent in the guy's smiling and talking.
    3. Why in gods name is the camera moving sideways? Christ !

    But thank you for the knowledge……

  32. I prefer real pictures of poorly fitting trousers to those drawings. Thanks. Also, it would be nice if you did a video in which you go out and buy trousers, showing the complete process.

  33. Hello, I love your detailed and professional video presentations. I have a question about the dark blue fishtail pants, can you tell me where I could find sewing patterns as these? I would appreciate it very much

  34. Where did you get those first trousers ? I've been looking for high rise trousers and those look perfect sir .

  35. Brand recommendations for 6’ 3, 280 lb guy? It’s heard to find clothes that fit me comfortable my and correctly. Keep up your great content!

  36. Nice video, really helps me a lot:) May I ask what fabric weight you prefer to make the pants drape elegantly? Is 12oz enough?

  37. QUESTION: Does pant rise affect how low the leg of a pant sits? For example, if one increases the body rise from 29 inches to 31 inches and the inseam remains the same, will the pant naturally sit lower at the ankle because of the increase in rise?

  38. I have neuropathy and when i wear pants at my natural waist i get horrible stabbing pains, but they look terible around my hips, would suspenders be a good option for me? i dont wear a belt at all, because even the tension around my hips causes some pain. I was thinking suspenders and a looser pants might give me a better look while not pressing against my sides. Im trying so hard to wear nicer clothes but i dont want to dress like i am 80 due to chronic illness (im 40). My shoes are already that of a great grandpa

  39. I believe that pleats in the front below the waist band are not flattering. If you have a flat tummy then pleats serve no purpose, and if you have a tummy bulge [which is probably most of us] pleats still don't work because they bulge out and emphasize the tummy bulge by making it more noticeable. Better to insist on a flat panel instead, and perhaps allow more fabric to cover the area.

  40. Cuffs on trousers are not for everyone. They tend to make the legs appear shorter, which is fine if you have overly long legs compared to your torso and can help you appear to be more proportional. But for people who don't have a long leg, and especially for people with short legs, cuffs can make you look shorter.

  41. I would really like to see the "How to fix pants" video covering all 21 issues that you alluded to. Please would you post a link if you have completed it.

  42. I have a tailor that made me a 50 $ custom suit in Pakistan. Cloth in Pakistan is VERY INEXPENSIVE. This tailor makes suits for brands in bulk (off the rack suits) which then retail for 300 – 500 $ or more. I went to the guy and got a custom suit made for 50 😀

  43. Sean Connery wore great suits in his 1960’s James Bond movies, can you do a vid on that style ? Thanks !

  44. This is helpful but how do you fit your things in your pockets? I mean without having a big buldge on the sides or without having to wear too loose of jeans. How do people do it? They don't carry their wallets, phones, coins, cards etc?

  45. I am again sitting there blown off by the level of your knowledge! the information will take time to be ingested properly.
    on the flipside, i'm thinking… if people (from west europe) fly to ast europe for dental treatments, why not also to have stuff tailor-made, if they are also for example going like tourists? i once had a pair of bespoke pants, and the material and hands cost me around 70 euros… which i believe is very affordable to be made by an expert. just putting it out there.

  46. All my suits are tailored to fit perfectly I always get my pants 381/4 in. Long 8" tapered with a cuff and they're always perfect the pants never leave the shoe…

  47. According to this video I have never in my live owned a pair of pants that fit me properly. Who makes all these rules anyway?

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