How To Iron A Suit, Blazer or Sport Coat – How To Press Suits, Sleeves, Back… Gentleman’s Gazette

How To Iron A Suit, Blazer or Sport Coat – How To Press Suits, Sleeves, Back… Gentleman’s Gazette

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette and
part four to our series about ironing. Today we discuss how to iron a suit jacket
or press a sport coat. Many people are hesitant to press a jacket
and even a tailor can sometimes takes 30 to 45 minutes to completely and accurately press
a jacket. Unfortunately the procurement tailors
use is very expensive but I’ll still show you a way on how you can press a jacket at
home with a very minimal investment in equipment. First of all the easiest way to remove wrinkles
from a jacket especially that is made out of wool is with the steam. The least expensive way is to hang your jacket
on a hanger with wide shoulder pads because it keeps the shape
of the shoulder and then simply hang it in your bathroom, turn on the hot water, let
it sit in there so you create a lot of steam. Let the jacket hang there overnight in the
morning at least the most extreme wrinkles should have come out. An even better and faster alternative to the
bathroom is to invest in a steamer. Usually about 100 bucks will get you a long
way then you will end up something that produce a lot of steam and you could just steam your
jacket when it hangs on a hanger. It has the advantage that you can de-wrinkle
specific areas such as the sleeve head, the sleeve or the back and honestly it works really
really well. I had a suit shipped to me in very little
packages and they came out looking really really bad but if it’s a quality cloth it
will release wrinkles when it’s steamed as long as it is made of wool. If you have a jacket like with linen or cotton
you’ll have to iron out and press it. They’re a little more difficult to iron but
it’s not impossible. If you have a linen jacket you can skip the
cloth because it can bear a lot of heat you just crank up the temperature all the way
and you go to the maximum steam setting. The more steam the better! If you just have a regular ironing board and
an iron you’re quite limited in what you can do when it comes to pressing. The easiest areas are flat areas such as the
front quarters maybe the pockets and the pocket flaps the center back seam and if you really
want to you can also try yourselves on the sleeves. Just like with pants, drying two layers of
fabric on top of each other which is not ideal but doable. If you want to iron your jackets at home I
strongly suggest to invest about $35 into a sleeve board and into a tailor’s ham. Those
two things will make it much easier to iron your jacket and you can actually iron any
part of the jacket to achieve a really wonderful good proper result. If money is of no concern to you definitely
invest in that vacuum table because it sucks away all the steam and it will give you better
result without any waves and it’s just also quicker to iron. First, I suggest you start with the body and
you can lay it over the tip of the ironing board similarly to a shirt. Carefully work on the front quarters. To prevent your jacket from getting shiny
it pays to have a pressing cloth which could be made of linen maybe an old t-shirt that
you cut and generally want something that has no lint and no fuzz. Simply put between the iron and the garment
and pull at the edges so you can see what’s going on while you iron. The next step up from this is to get a Teflon
sole because it will prevent the fabric from getting shiny but you can see everything that’s
going on. Once you’re done with the front quarters it’s
time to go to the lapels. Personally I really much prefer to iron the
lapels on a tailor’s ham and a sleeve board because you get that natural rounding that
the lapel has on your body. A quality handmade jacket is always identifiable
by their lapel roll. Cheap suits or some that were pressed cheaply
have very flat pressed lapel area and you should avoid that at all cost because it makes
it look cheap and you don’t want that. To increase the lapel roll you can even iron
the lapel in the beginning part from the back which really helps to achieve this beautiful
bespoke style roll. Don’t iron over the lapel line that’s folded
because otherwise it’s stiff and flat. Once you’re done with that you could iron
the back area of the jacket. That’s easily done even on a regular ironing
board with a regular iron. Just pay attention to the seams which is the
center seam and try to not press hard on them but slightly on the side that way you won’t
see the pattern of the seams on the outside of the fabric. That’s especially important with thinner more
flimsy fabrics. The same is true when ironing for example
the corners of your back vents. If you want a crisp result you can use a clapper
to get that nice crease. Next up it’s time to iron sleeves and that’s
when a sleeve board comes in really really handy. Better than ironing two layers of fabric at
the same time I prefer to have one layer of fabric but a sleeve is usually never just
straight. Don’t worry if there is a slight curve and
you want to maintain that curve by ironing in that same fashion. Mostly for this I know are straight and so
it’s a little challenge but you can do it by follow the patterns on the jacket sleeve. If there’s no pattern simply take that motion
in a slight banana curve. When you do that try to keep the curve of
the sleeve and don’t press the edges otherwise you get
a military-style look that looks very un-advantageous on a regular jacket in my opinion. Similarly to a shirt sleeve you simply rotate
the sleeve and that way you ensure to have a nice even result without any wrinkles and
without any military crease on your sleeve. Stay clear of the sleeve head which is better
ironed using a tailor’s ham. You can really prop it in there, try to adjust
it, pull things flat ideally over the sleeve board because that way it drapes more easily
nothing is in your way and you can just focus on ironing. It’s a lot easier that way. Use steam gentle motions and don’t press too
hard on it so you remove all the wrinkles. When you’re done with that slightly adjust
the tailor’s ham so you can iron the front part of the chest
as well as the back. Again think about jackets when it’s worn. From the top here you want to go and iron in
lines down and keep that same shape, same in the back. With that center seam and so you go in the
shape it drapes over the body. Gently use steam. Now you can also iron the back area underneath
the collar and also the collar itself. It’s very difficult or next to impossible
to iron a collar on a flat ironing board. You need the sleeve board and a tailors ham
so it can roll and drape nicely and just iron little parts of it. If you have patch pockets you can use the
sleeve board as well to iron them and then maybe the clapper on top to get a straight
edge. At this point you’re basically done with your
jacket. Ideally you put it in a hanger or even better
a mannequin so you can really look it over and see any areas that you might have missed
or it just got wrinkles while you were ironing other parts. Again take a look at the lapels. Make sure the roll is there. There is no puckering or any waviness. Look at the shoulders, look at the sleeves
again because sometimes you see creases on the inside of the elbow or usually jackets
crease above the bum around the waist level in the back. Last but not the least you may not be happy
with the wrinkles in the lining. Now ideally use your iron and hover over it
with a steam and pull it at the same time that will likely release most of the wrinkles. If it doesn’t you can gently press it or use
a steamer that produces even more steam than the regular iron and you should be good to
go. Just be careful not to press too hard because
otherwise you may end up with wrinkles on the outside of the jacket which is a lot worse
than in the lining. Alright now you know how to iron a jacket
at home! If you haven’t already done so please check
out part 1, 2 & 3 of this ironing series. We talked about the equipment, how to iron
dress shirts and how to iron dress pants. In today’s video I am wearing a red, white
and blue check shirt with barrel cuffs because it’s easier than French cuffs when you iron. I also skipped the jacket because I wanted
a full range of movement so I’m not hindered when I iron. So I just opted for a blue Harris tweed vest. I combined it with a Bordeaux red silk knit
tie from Fort Belvedere and a pair of off-white wool flannel winter pants. White or off white winter flannels are not something
you typically see these days but they were quite popular in the 30s. My shoes are full brogue derby wingtips in
a nice chestnut brown and I combine them with a pair of light pink and gray socks that provide
just enough contrast between the shoes and the pants. They’re from Fort Belvedere and you can find
out all of the accessories in our shop here.

34 Replies to “How To Iron A Suit, Blazer or Sport Coat – How To Press Suits, Sleeves, Back… Gentleman’s Gazette”

  1. Wonderful!I have a tweed jacket which is ironed in a wrong way!The laundry lady ironed the lapel rolls,is that still repairable?It was ironed a year ago 😫😩

  2. Those pants are very nice and go well with the blue vest, but the cuffs on the pants are too wide. They need to be about half the width, otherwise, they make your legs look too short.

  3. Hey Sven. I see you are ironing the jacket with the regular iron and then in another clip with the more professional looking one? What's the difference?

  4. What would be your reccomendation for really sensitive fabrics, for very loose/open weave garments (like fresco), I typically use a steamer and leave it at that.

  5. Raphael, thank you for the incredible suit ironing tutorial! Your demonstration illustrated how woefully inadequate my ironing equipment is (a simple iron & board). I will be adding the items you showed to my "workshop". I do have one suggestion for you, in terms of equipment upgrades: your spray bottle.

    My fiancee used to be a hair stylist and she introduced me to the 360 degree, misting spray bottles, that can be used upright, upside down, sideways, or any which way. Not only are the easier to use because of their directional flexibility, but they provide a much nicer, finer, continuous mist, that spreads evenly over the intended target in what I would describe as a wet mist. As much as I could try to describe it, it's really not possible to truly put into words, it's something you must try in order to understand how different and better it is over regular spray bottles. Once I tried it, I could never go back to the regular sprayer! Just google "mist spray bottle" and you'll see several options come up; I bought mine at CosmoProf, but I know that they're available at many other salon retailers. Try it out…you won't be disappointed! 🙂

    Thank you again for this and all of your excellent videos. I watch every single one as you release them and I even have my fiancee watching them too. Keep up the great and very necessary work of informing men about the gentleman's lifestyle. Cheers!

  6. Good sir what are your thoughts on wearing a flannel and a tie with a peacoat and a nice black fedora with black pants.

  7. Of the vacuum boards available, which do you recommend. I mean, for me, it's a huge investment so I want to get a "one and done" quality, dependable board and haven't the means to try out the various models.

  8. Hey, Hello there, I have a question that I would love to hear your thoughts on. I am going to a wedding in a couple weeks, and I am thinking about wearing my new charcoal grey morning coat. However, it is not a super fancy event, and I am unsure if a tailcoat would be appropriate. What do you think? Are tailcoats appropriate for you average wedding, these days?

  9. I have an expensive Philips Steamer and it just adds more wrinkles to my suit! Also what's that white cloth for?

  10. Is there a way to tell which heart seeing to use? I'm always nervous I might have a polyester blend, thanks!

  11. Hey Raphael, how about ties? Can you use a pressing cloth and small motions like you recommend for the sleeves? Anything in particular for a grenadine tie?

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