How To Iron Shirts Like A Pro – Easy Step-by-Step Dress Shirt Ironing Guide – Gentleman’s Gazette

How To Iron Shirts Like A Pro – Easy Step-by-Step Dress Shirt Ironing Guide – Gentleman’s Gazette

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette and
part 2 of our ironing series. Today, I’ll show you how to iron a shirt or
a dress shirt for men and women and I’ll share all the tricks with you that I use to get
the perfect result. If you have not checked out part of one of
our ironing series yet, please check it out here where we discuss all the things you need
to iron properly. The dress shirt is the easiest thing to iron
in a classic man’s wardrobe and it’s the easiest one to begin with when you’re just getting
into ironing. It may surprise you but it all starts in the
laundry room, a proper prep work is essential to get it right. The
higher the spin cycle on your machine, the more wrinkles you will get. So keep that in mind when you launder your
shirts in the first place. When you take them out of the machine, they’re
still wet and ideally, this is a good time to smooth out the wrinkles. Now, in theory, you’re ready to iron. For the most efficient way, always iron a
number of shirts at the same time because a lot of effort goes
into prep work and you can save time on a per shirt basis, the more shirts you iron. Now should or should you not use a dryer? The big advantage of the dryer is that it
helps to release wrinkles and makes ironing easier, on the other hand, the huge disadvantage
is that 99.99% of shirts have a glued interlining; either in the collar, or the cuffs, or in
the placket, a dryer is very hard on those interlinings and chances for it to blister
and come undone are much higher the more often you dry it. Because of that, personally, I never put shirts
my dryer and I’ll urge you to never put your high end shirts in a dryer either because
it will ruin your investment. So should you iron your shirts when they’re
still wet? The answer is yes and no. Yes because if they’re damp and not soaking
wet, it’s easier to iron them at the same time, it will take more time because the cold
water has to be heated up and evaporated by your iron. Personally, I’ll try to find a good middle
ground so it’s not too wet but also not dry. If you happen to have a dry shirt, I suggest
you spray it with a spray bottle of water then put it in a plastic bag for about 10
to 15 minutes, let it sit there that way, it can moisten up and ironing will be much
easier on you. Shirts that are hard to iron are prone to
wrinkling and waves which are unsightly and I’ll show you how to get rid of them. First of all, lay out all your equipment. At the minimum, you need the ironing board. If you are right-handed, the ironing board
tip should face to the left. Now, check the label of your shirt and turn
the iron to the proper temperature. Usually, they have settings based on a material
such as linen, cotton, polyester, or nylon blends. Cotton requires a relatively high temperature
but if you have a polyblend shirt, make sure you lower the setting, otherwise, it will
ruin your shirt. Two, make sure everything is clean. Look at the shirts to see if there any recent
stains because if you iron them now , the heat will set in the stain and it will be
much harder to remove it then if you take action right away. Also make sure the ironing board cover is
clean and there are no stains on the bottom of the ironing sole. What I’ve seen sometimes is there’s plastic
from plastic buttons or some dirt and if you iron with a hot iron on the shirt, you will
set a stain in it for good. Three, add water. You definitely want a steam iron and that
requires water. I suggest you go with distilled water because
it is not hard water but soft water being it has few minerals such as calcium and magnesium
and that can cause your iron to clog up and you’ll get a grayish whitish substance onto
your shirts that will also cause stains. If you live in an area where the water is
soft and you can tell by looking for example in your showerhead and if there’s no residue,
you can also use it right in your iron. Also make sure there’s water in your spray
bottle because the mist it produces is much finer and much better suited to ironing than
the spray head that’s usually built into an iron. Once your iron has reached the proper temperature,
it’s time to go. Keep in mind, it’s much easier to iron, you
get much better results if you use a professional-grade vacuum table and to learn more about that,
please check out part 1 of this series. Five, start with pressing the cuffs and the
sleeves. No matter if it’s a barrel cuff or a French
cuff, I start ironing on the inside of the cuff. Once that’s done, I look at the outside and
if there’s still some wrinkles, I iron again. Always make sure to iron from the outside
of the cuff in, otherwise, you’ll get little wrinkles by the stitching especially on shirts
with a sewn interlining. It can be quite frustrating but practice pays
off. Once I’m done with the cuff, it’s time to
iron the sleeve. If you just have a regular ironing board,
I suggest to lay down the sleeve flat because at this stage, you are ironing two layers
at the same time. If you don’t do it right, you get wrinkles
and it will take you much long. It truly pays to have a system here. I always start in a corner of the armpit and
I iron at middle parts and not the top edge because that will leave a crease. I also always start in the backside and once
I’m done, I flip it over to the front side and repeat the motion. Try to iron in the middle part and when you’re
done, you can add a crease on top. If you like a strong crease, you can now add
the clapper which is a piece of wood that really helps to get a strong crease in it. Personally, I’m not a big fan of the crease
and because of that, I use a sleeve board. The big advantage of the sleeve board is that
the results are much nicer, you’ll have fewer wrinkles, and you have no crease all the way
around. I start by pulling the sleeve of the sleeve
board so the seam is on top. Now, I work my way around until I get to the
seam again and I’ve ironed everything. Most dress shirts have one or more pleats
sewn onto the cuff to create volume for your sleeve and the sleeve board really helps you
to get nice creases in the exact length that you want. The key to success in ironing is not to use
broad motions all over the place but short controlled movements that have enough
pressure. As you may know, ironing is also known as
pressing and that’s because you have to press down. You can see me going back and forth with my
iron because I have two pointed ends. If you have just one pointed end, you have
to always go in a direction with a point, otherwise, you’ll end up with wrinkles in
the shirt. Once you’re done with one sleeve, move on
to the next cuff and sleeve. It doesn’t matter which one you start with. Six, press the collar and the yoke. First of all, you flip up your color and you
remove any collar stays if that’s possible, if they’re sewn in, just leave them in there. Now I iron from one side to the middle, stop,
and I go to the other side and iron again to the middle. Avoid ironing from the inside out or in one
motion because it will create wrinkles. Because the collar has so many layers, you
may have to go over it once more simply to get the right result. Once you’re done with the underside of the
collar, flip it open so you’re now ironing the outside of the collar. Again, outside to the middle from one side
and outside to the middle from the other side. If you have a collar with a sewn interlining,
it can be a little more tricky. Try to pull the fabric so it stays flat especially
along the stitched seams. Again, use short strokes and not bold long
motions. Now some people like to fold the collar back
down and iron on top of it so it gets its natural shape. If you want a soft roll collar, especially
on top or if you have removable collar stays, I suggest you skip that step. Once your collar is done, it’s time for the
yoke. Most ironing boards have a perfect shape to
iron one side of the yoke at a time. Make sure the yoke lays flat and then with
short motions, iron it nice and flat. Move on to the middle, iron the middle of
the yoke and then go on and move on to the other side of the yoke. The technique is the same. While you do that though, make sure you don’t
iron deep wrinkles into the back of your shirt. If you do it’s not the end of the world because
we iron that at a later stage. The order in which I iron is well thought
through so don’t skip it up, otherwise, you end up with a more wrinkly shirt. Once around with a collar and a yoke, it’s
time to finish the body. First face the buttons on the board and iron
it from the back. That way I can go all the way one nice clean
motion make sure there’s no wrinkles. Now flip the shirt so the buttons face up. If you have a solid shirt, you can quickly
go into the areas in between the buttons. If you have a striped shirt I suggest to simply
tap down your iron lift it up move to the next section tap down again and so forth. I do this because otherwise your lines will
become wavy and it’ll show on the front of the shirt. Most ironing boards are shaped slimmer at
the end and so you can lay the shirt down and pull it flat. Once I’ve done that, I start in the direction
of the pattern. If it’s a stripe, in a striped pattern, from
the bottom to the top. Since the front of your shirt is the most
visible part, you’ll make sure it looks extra clean and neat. Make sure the area around the armhole is neat
as well as the area on top next to the collar. If you happen to iron a crease, flatten it
out, spray some water on top of it, either with the iron or with your spray bottle and
go over it again. In case your shirt has a pocket, that can
be tricky to iron. make sure you pull it flat iron it separately
in short strokes. If there’s excess fabric, you can avoid creases
by ironing along them, never across them. The pointed tip of your iron comes in very
handy here, just like in every area where there’s a little corner. Because most irons don’t have steam holes
right in the tip of the iron, it pays to separately steam them or use some water and spray it
on. At the end of the day, you want a nice smooth
result especially along the seams. Once the button front of the shirt is done,
I move on to the back. It’s the same procedure again. I start on one side and pull it flat so I
can then start to iron. If the shirt has pleats in the back
align the pleat and iron over it so it looks neat exactly that what you want. If you have a hand made shirt especially an
Italian one, chances are, it has grinze along the seam of the yoke in the back. To get them to look right, use the iron in
short strokes pointing towards the yoke seam and you want that wavy effect that’s part
of the craftsmanship and the handwork and it’s not a defect or something that you can
eliminate by ironing. When you’re done with one side of the back
slightly rotate it over the board and keep ironing the middle and then the other side. At this time I also check the yoke on top
and see if there are any wrinkles I can go over it again and voila now you’re done! Simply pull the shirt off the board, put it
in the hanger, and button the top button or sometimes the top two buttons if you have
a big collar. Now you can just hang in your
closet and your shirt is ready to go next time you need it. As I mentioned before, because of all the
time it needs to set up it really pays to iron all your shirts at once. If you enjoyed this guide give us a thumbs
up hit a little bell so videos like this come right to your inbox and stay tuned for part
three we talk about ironing dress pants you want to see how I earn a dress shirt from
start to finish step-by-step from different angles with all the intricate details without
being rushed please watch this video here in today’s video wearing a more relaxed outfit
which is ideal for ironing consists of a pressed dress shirt which is striped in blue and white
cotton I’m using barrel cuffs and the French cuffs because that way that won’t interfere
with the ironing wearing a pair of navy blue denim with a brown crocodile belt and a silver
buckle which works well with my silver and carnelian green the shoes are antique brown
penny loafers and they work well with a belt my socks consist of red and blue their shadow
stripes socks from Fort Belvedere which can find in our shop here they tie
together the shoes the jeans as well as the ring I’m wearing

100 Replies to “How To Iron Shirts Like A Pro – Easy Step-by-Step Dress Shirt Ironing Guide – Gentleman’s Gazette”

  1. You have too many buttons undone on your shirt (at the end of the video) and this makes your dress too informal or untidy. M.

  2. I'm a medic and I like my uniforms sharp. How do I iron around the patches so they look neat and proper? I have sleeve and a over a pocket patch. Thanks

  3. Does anyone else find it ironic that this video (and several others I've just watched on How to iron a shirt) have ads for no-iron dress shirts?

  4. I've just discovered that I actually iron my shirts the right way. I follow the exact same order you do and I didn't learn it from anyone, I just came up with it after about 2 years of ironing my own shirts in college. Does that mean I am a natural gentleman? or are we lost relatives?

  5. Talk about stretching the lesson out, with all that detail about the water. Just say, use distilled water instead of all the garb!

  6. i'd recommend not putting the ironed shirts immediately in the closet but to let them hang out for a little while until the steam has left the shirt completely

  7. This is a great vid. I love that you dress sharply, even while ironing… But, never ever use distilled water in an iron. Distilled water has a low pH and can corrode your iron. Most manufacturers recommend you use filtered water. Britta is fine.

  8. I've worked with guys who never wear an ironed shirt. Looks like they just grabbed it out of the laundry basket or the dryer.

  9. You really need to do the yoke before sleeves / cuffs. It's very hard to properly flatten / smooth the yoke without crumpling the top of your sleeves.

  10. As much as I like the convenience of a dryer, I do enjoy spending time to iron my shirts and trousers. I started doing this in high school because I was a Air Force JROTC cadet, which requires that we wear the Air Force uniform and adhere to military dress and grooming regulations.

    Call me crazy, but I find folding clothes and ironing to be relaxing.
    Sven, thanks for the tips! They are much appreciated 🙂

  11. I had to check if this was actually being legit or a mockery…MY GOODNESS hasn't skillsets changed in less than a lifetime.

  12. Good thing Sven was ironing light-colored fabrics in this video. His rubbing technique is the best way polish your fabrics to a brilliant shine!! Think of your technique this way… "Iron" is a noun, "press" is a verb. You want to smooth then press your fabric moving the iron slowly over the fabric. Ideally, use a pressing cloth of 100% cotton or linen (Some people swear by silk organza but it doesn't tolerate the higher temps that cotton or linen do.). NO SYNTHETIC fibers in your cloth! A good, old well-laundered men's white handkerchief is great option. Smooth out your shirt fabric, place the pressing cloth on it, spritz the cloth with water from a spray bottle and then PRESS the fabric. A too-hot iron and friction are the surest ways to quickly gain a wardrobe of fine POLISHED cotton!

  13. 1-Gentlemen don't iron shirts,they have servants for that (Europe)
    2-Hang it against the wall,steam it,spray starch,let it dry,that's the American way.
    Courtesy of the US Army

  14. Great video as always. Does anyone know where to get a wide base sleeve board like Sven has in this video? I can’t find any that look as sturdy as his.

  15. Fantastic video and series! Thank you. One question, how do you know when to actually use the steam and spray bottle?

  16. I never knew you cat get university degree in ironing a shirt
    I am 40 years old and just now enrich my vocabulary with a lot of shirt anatomy

  17. What!!?? There is a sleeveboard!!?? 😱I always wondered how you properly iron sleeves. I LOVE this video. Thank you!

  18. If I follow this way it will take me 30 mins for every shirt that's why I do it my own way only 10 mins per shirt and the results are very close

  19. Why did I just watch an 11 minute video of how to iron a dress shirt. I don't wear dress shirts and I don't even own an iron lol

  20. Its always weird how its only longsleeves if its short sleeves people don't bother to iron it. I just wish my job excepts short sleeves shirts it will save time of me just iron my shirt all the time.

  21. Any tips on minimizing wrinkles at the bend of the arm area when wearing it. Or am I buying the wrong shirts?

  22. It's quicker to iron one side of the front from bottom-to-top, the pull the shirt around the top of the ironing board and across the yoke, then continue down the other side of the front. When done with the front, pull the shirt over the edge to iron the back. There is a lot of time saved positioning the shirt if you follow this order, especially if you're doing several at one time.

  23. Way too much time, way too fussy and way too many implements. I've been ironing for at least 45-50 years and I can iron a shirt to perfection in a whole lot less steps and less time. I couldn't watch this video to the end. Ooops, I forgot to say that I'm a perfectionist so I just don't throw a shirt on the ironing board and do it any old way.

  24. Thank you and most informative. I actually love to iron my shirts but was getting the order wrong. I also use a little spray starch on my collars. Another great video though and enjoy them all.

  25. Eh, sorry to interrupt.
    Mother here.
    High spins do not cause creases. Over loading the washing machine causes more creases.
    When you remove clothing from the machine hold the clothing tightly at the shoulders or waist band and give it good flick.
    Once should do it.
    You can use the tumble dryer. Use a cool setting.
    Do not overload the dryer.
    Lastly remove clothing from dryer one at a time.
    Flick out as before.
    Hang on a hanger right away.
    You will have no creases or rinkles.
    A quick run over with the iron is all that's needed.
    Bless you all.
    Some women take being a mother seriously.

  26. No steam,starch or seizing ? Most irons today will spray water or steam. Steam always helps get rid of wrinkles. When you use water always use bottled water never tap water. Tap water may contain minerals that will ruin a shirt or make a big hassle. Another reason to,use spray starch or seizing. At dry cleaners light starch with medium on cuffs and collar. We want creases as sharp as a knife.

  27. I have been working at the cleaners for 19 years in California. I wish I have chance to make videos to show how to press shirts and take care your own clothes (professionally) at home for anyone who wants to save money from bringing clothes to the dry cleaners

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