How to Make a Large Jelly Roll Tote | Shabby Fabrics Sewing Tutorial

How to Make a Large Jelly Roll Tote | Shabby Fabrics Sewing Tutorial


Hi! It’s Jen from Shabby Fabrics. I have a
project for you today I think you’re gonna love to make. It’s not only fun to
make but it’s practical. Who doesn’t need another bag for the gym, for the beach,
a day out, maybe a picnic? I had so much fun putting that together using the
Ombre Confetti Metallic Jelly Roll for Moda Fabrics. Normally I’m using Jelly
Rolls to make quilts and I thought well maybe that’d be fun to do a tote bag. A
nice big tote bag and I can’t wait to show you how easy it is. All you’ll need
will be a Jelly Roll, and what’s really cool about this is we only used half the
Jelly Roll – 20 strips – to make the bag. That includes the outside and the lining,
so you can actually make two bags out of one Jelly Roll. Now for each bag you’ll
need 3/8 of a yard of a fabric for the straps and I love the metallic – the
gold metallic circles in this collection so I picked a metallic gold fabric for
the handles and you’ll also need some Fusible Fleece. Now our measurements and
all of that will be available as a download. If you haven’t already
subscribed to our YouTube channel I encourage you to do that because we’re
always coming up with new ideas and even new stitchery clubs and things like that
so go ahead and subscribe so you’ll be the first to know. You’ll be looking for
the download for this project and that’ll be in the link below, so don’t
worry about writing any of this information down. But I love knowing that
I can get two bags out of that. You’ll just need to double your yardage for
your handle and for your Fusible Fleece. So let’s just jump into how easy this is
with the Ombre Confetti Metallic Jelly Roll you actually got two of each strip,
so I simply separated my Jelly Roll into two separate groups and put the second
aside. I’m gonna make one bag for myself as you saw and the other to give as a
gift which is great. I love that there’s one for me, one to give. I think
that’s a great value considering that you can get two bags out of one Jelly
Roll. So let’s put that aside for now. As you can see, once you just lay out
the arrangement of where you want the strips, you’ll sew them together with a standard quarter-inch seam allowance and I press
the seams open. We’ll be putting a Fusible Fleece on the back of that so
I’ll go ahead and put these aside for now and I pieced my units together and I
want to show you just how beautiful it is. It’s so pretty to just look at this.
I’ll put that aside. Now one thing that I noticed when I was laying out my strips
is the strips and I think it’s, well it’s really true of all fabric, there’s
kind of a wider white selvage and on the other end it’s not – there’s no white at
all. Because I wanted to be able to maximize
the size of my bag I wanted to have something lining up on my left side and
so I just chose the wider white selvage to be all on the same side, so as you can
see we just sew them together and press the seams open. Once you have that put
together you’ve you’ve done all that, obviously you’ve pressed all your strips
out, you’re just going to iron the Fusible Fleece on the back side of that
and I’ll bring that out right now. Whenever you’re using any kind of
fusible product on the backside of a large piece of fabric, I recommend that
you go ahead and start pressing that on from the center out. It just helps to
eliminate bubbles and they kind of just go out versus you starting on one side
and ironing and that kind of tends to creep and push along any bubbles. So
that’s just one thing I’ve learned along the way. Now because you do have a big
piece of Fusible Fleece on the back of your strip set we wanted to go ahead and
secure those strips to the Fusible Fleece, so notice the beautiful metallic
thread and I can’t wait to show you all about using metallic thread which is
very exciting and and very new to me by the way. I had nothing but problems with
metallic thread before, breaking. You might have had that
experience too. This is why we are now using the Thread Director. We have
available as the single spool Thread Director and the Thread Director 2. We’ll
be doing some twin needle sewing. Again that’s really new to me. I’m a quilter!
This is all new to me and it’s really exciting and is doable on any sewing
machine so don’t think you have to have a wonderful Bernina. I love our Bernina
absolutely love that, but if you have a different sewing machine this will work
with your machine too. So I left one of the lanes unstitched – we’ll stitch that
together – but as you can see stitching these together with a twin needle
basically means I get to sew on either side of that seam all at the same time
it saves me time and those two lanes of stitching are perfectly parallel with
each other so that’s a great thing to have a twin needle. We certainly have
those available as well if you don’t have a twin needle for your sewing
machine. Now let me talk you just a little bit about a metallic thread. This
metallic thread as you can see here is wound on this
direction. If you put that on a horizontal spool pin it makes the thread
come off rotating and is more likely to break so the Thread Director was
created. It’s a fantastic invention and when you have two spools the Thread Director
2 is perfect. And when you thread your machine you grab a hold of both
threads and thread the machine as if it were one and when you get down to your
needle simply insert one of the threads into one side of the needle and the
other side and the other side of the needle. You might want to reduce your
tension on this particular Bernina 770 Quilters Edition. I did dial down my
tension to 2.5 and I increased my stitch length to 3.0. Just experiment
with your own machine and find the settings that work best for you
practicing on some scrap fabric before you start working on your Jelly Roll bag.
So let’s go to the sewing machine and I’m just going to show you how
beautifully the machine sews. Using the twin needle –
and by the way that’s a Schmetz Metallic Needle. I think it’s really important
that you are getting a twin needle that’s built for metallic thread. There’s
a smoother groove in the in the actual eye of the needle so when the metallic
thread goes in it’s less likely to have friction and breakage. So we’re gonna go
ahead and go to the machine. We’ll stitch down that final lane that does not have
any beautiful metallic thread, so let’s head over right now and we’ll get that
done. Okay so we’ve sewn together our –
actually it’s already been sewn together but we just basically kind of top-stitched
that. You might have noticed I was sewing slower than normal. I do recommend you
dial down the speed on your machine because if you sew too fast you’re more
likely to break that beautiful Sulky Metallic Thread. Now as you can see I’ve
got Fusible Fleece hanging out here, I need to trim that away on all four sides
of our strip set, and of course I’m going to be trying to trim away as minimal as
possible because I want to be able to make the bag as big as I want it to be.
So off-camera I’ll go ahead and bring my rotary cutter and my ruler and I’m just
going to be laying that down trying to trim away as little as possible. When I
come back we’ll take you to the next step of making our beautiful tote bag. I
have everything trimmed up and ready to go. We will now bring right sides
together – we’re gonna make a big tube. So we’ll bring our ends together like this
and I’m just gonna pin the beginning and the end and a couple of places along the
way just so that doesn’t creep and shift on me. One of the things I have enjoyed
when I was figuring out a fun bag pattern is I’m used to a bag having an
exterior and then a separate lining. This is everything all in one, so I think if
you’re a beginner this is a perfect first bag for you. It’s an impressive
looking bag and it’s very easy to make, and it’s not the complication of a
separate lining and how does that work, you’re not using the zipper, it’s very
straightforward. Now you may have already noticed that
I took the Thread Director off the machine because for this purpose I want
a single needle and standard thread and I’m just going to be again sewing a
quarter-inch seam allowance and then pressing that seam open. If you have a
second sewing machine at home you might want to have one have
the Thread Director on it with the metallic needles – excuse me the twin
metallic needle, the metallic thread, and then a second machine with just your
standard 50 weight cotton in both the top and the bobbin, and your single
needle with a standard straight stitch. So otherwise you will be switching back
and forth a couple of times but let’s jump over to the sewing machine. I’m just
gonna sew a standard quarter-inch seam allowance all the way down. Okay so we
are now ready to press that scene open like the others so we’ll go ahead and go
do that right now me bring that over I love my Panasonic iron
I love that it’s cordless more than you dealing with a big project I think this
is a bigger project sometimes that cord is just cut it’s just another thing for
me to deal with so I appreciate so much the fact that that iron is cordless
now to get that open just kind of create kind of a tube and you can even this has
a great steaming feature about it we just kind of want to open up that see
there we go now it’s starting to let go now I’m gonna press that seam okay now we get to turn our tube
right-side out to the pretty side I just love the idea of using jelly rolls in a
new way they’re not always gonna be for quilts and they can do other functional
things now just like we have the beautiful gold metallics red accenting
each of those seams the seam we just sewed needs our gold metallic thread as
well so we will be needing our thread director again our twin needle our two
spools of our silky beautiful metallic thread to just sew down that seam and
because it’s now a tube there are some tricks to that and I want to show you
that it’s very easy to accomplish and I’m gonna show you that right now
so I have a nice big table here this is when you want to put your tube around
here but as you can see this is a really big table and even on my other sewing
machines it’s big it’s too big and this is when you want to go ahead and remove
it and that’s why they make them removable so in this instance I’m going
to go ahead and remove that and then we will be able to maneuver around this
much easier so I’m just going to be sewing slowly like I did before just to
reminder if you’re using now a single machine adjust your settings back to
reduce your tension again on the brininess that’s 2.5 by stitch stitch
length on this machine is 300 so if you are flip-flopping with the same machine
just adjust back you might want to write those settings down now our goal here is
to make sure that we’re sewing this seam open and not inadvertently sewing our
bag together that means you just kind of have to work it around this kind of arm
feeling underneath and kind of making sure that this part of the bag is coming
underneath and this part staying on top you just kind of have to work your way
through and do it slowly alright so I’m going to be taking my time to make sure
I get this right here go okay we have all of our strips sewn
together every seam has the beautiful metallic thread now we’ll turn it wrong
side out and we’ll be working with the ends now like I mentioned before this is
both the outside and the inside of the back there’s nothing else besides this
except for those handles of course there’s something there
with the bottom here we’re just gonna sew a quarter inch seam allowance or
maybe just a little bit greater you want to make sure that is absolutely secure
on the other end will be leaving an opening so that we can turn the bag
through I’d like to leave opening this is a lot of bulk turning through I’m
gonna be leaving open oh we could say it may be a 6-inch opening I’m just gonna
mark that here so nothing unique other than I do recommend wherever you stop
you reinforce a new backstitch here and where you begin before you go sewing
this make sure you reinforce because as we turn the bag through that’s going to
be a stress point I’m going to go ahead and do that off-camera there’s nothing
really unique about that again just a quarter inch or slightly greater all the
way across here and up to here and here here and here and we’ll leave that open
I will be changing to the single needle and then 50 weight cotton thread and
when I come back we’ll take you to the next step now that I have the bottom
completely closed and the other portion again we left our opening to turn
through we’re gonna do something called box the corners depending on how wide
you want that bad side to be will depend on what size
you box your corners this may be new to you if it’s not new to you you know
exactly what I’m about to do because it’s really the same for all bags a lot
of bags are assembled this way and this portion so we have that seam or we sewed
it together and then we have this here now we’re just going to lay that on top
of our table and we’ll just kind of flatten that out and depending on if we
box your corner here you can imagine that side of that bag that bag is going
to be that wide if we want a narrower not so wide bag then we’re going to do
less of a box let’s go ahead and do let’s do I like a nice big bag I want my
towels to fit in there everything from the gym I’m at the gym all the time
let’s go ahead and do let’s say we’re going to box out to six inches so I’ve
got my ruler here and I’m lining up this time I’m like my mat I’ve got guidance
here on my mat if I’m going to do a six inch box for example my three is going
to be right along my seam line with three on the left and three on the right
and I’m going to draw a line that let me draw that over there a little bit better
I don’t want that going anywhere you pin that I don’t want anything just
shift while we’re sewing that down and I like to as I come to this bulkier seam
I’m going to lay that open and so we’re just going to be careful about when we
come here we don’t want to let that seam roll over it’s too much bulk so let’s go
to the sewing machine and we’re going to sew with a straight stitch on regular
tension regular stitch length a straight stitch right along this line okay so I’m
just gonna flatten this out at my machine and I just do one more check
that that seam feels over top of the bottom there and it feels right to me
I’m just gonna reinforce that we’ll just remove our pins and we’re
going to cut our scene not our scene quarter inch away from our
scene with a ruler and a nice good sharp rotary cutter in natural first corner we
repeat those steps for the other three corners
I’ll do that off-camera and when I come back we’re gonna I’m gonna have the bag
actually turned a Saru and we’re gonna take you to the very next step so we
have turned the bag through I’ve turned it through and you know what it’s a
little bit of a struggle it’s a lot of bulk turning through it can get your
fabric wrinkly don’t worry this is all part of the process if you want to have
your points just perfect in those corners we have the point to point
Turner that is wonderful to get there make sure you don’t poke through and
that that’s just to kind of get those little extra points out there in your
back and of course you might want to give your bag a press at this point and
now I have this opening what are we going to do with this opening this is
going to be what’s in the lining of the bag you could get a couple options here
simply turn that under it’s it is bulky so I shouldn’t say simply do this kind
of work it through as best you can having just a little bit of a press does
reduce that I would say kind of the challenge of getting that seam closed then of course the same on the other
side just a quick press now I’m just going to work this through you’ve got a
couple options you could do this by hand I know that my gym bag gets used hard
and I’ll be putting in the washing machine over and over again so I am
going to opt for a machine stitch here I’m just gonna put a pin in and I’m just
going to show you how you kind of feather in starting where the opening is
down here we’re gonna go to the sewing machine I’ll show you how to feather
something in and feather out and that one more time right there I don’t want
that going anywhere so let’s go to the sewing machine and I’ll show you how to
do this so we see this is where our stitching is I’m going to actually start
a little bit here for it kind of coming in shallow at an angle pick it up run
parallel to where I know I need to stitch to and feather away so let’s do
that now snaps which that I’m going to continually check that I’m
catching that rolled edge right there we want to feather out right there as I mentioned this is the lining of the
bag so you’ll just feel the separation and you’re just going to push this in this is a nice sturdy bag
thanks a lot of layers here this bag is going to nowhere really well for you and
I can feel these corners here and I’m just trying to match up my hands kind of
splayed out like this inside those corners and I’m just trying to match
corner to corner down here and again over here you can look and check it there we are now I’ve got this rolled
obviously you saw how that just rolled inside I want to secure that this is
when we bring out our threat director – and I’m going to run a top stitch in the
gold metallic not just for beauty purposes but actual now to just make
sure that kind of that lining stays inside and otherwise when I wash this
this bag could be coming out and be a big long tube I don’t want that to
happen so I’ll do the twin needle sewing and then we will move on to our straps
and finish up our bag I am going to go around this again just like before so
we’re not accidentally sewing this to this and closing our bag and we’ll just
kind of rotate around the arm of the Machine now I’m just going to be using
Priss having my presser foot right along that edge right there you could go a
quarter inch away do whatever you want to do we just want to do a securing and
decorative stitch looking pretty now we need some handles
we need to be able to hold on to this bag
we chose again that beautiful metallic gold but depending on what you’re using
for your project it could be this very bag or something else just pick
something that is pretty and I’ll show you how simple it is to make these
straps let me just come off a little bit here you’ll be using you’ll need 3/8 of
a yard and you’ll be cutting two strips six inches by the width of the fabric so let’s get out right now and I can show
you how easy that is to prepare these handles you have your 6 inch piece
you’ll simply fold that in half all the way down and press I’ll just show you
for a small portion how we do it then you’ll open that up you have a nice
strong visual seam and you’ll fold toward the center and press again and do
the same on this side pressing to the middle again of course you’ll be doing
that all the way down and then just together and press that’s all there is
to making that we used a decorative gold of course gold our same gold and we just
did a slight eighth of an inch stitch on either side I’ve done that ahead of time
I’ll show you what that looks like we have both of those here and as I
mentioned just a pretty in it it’s not just the decorative stitches actually
keeping that closed and then we press down one and a half inches that’s the
portion on our bag where we’re going to be having our X securing stitch here so
go ahead and measure those down one and a half in
and press and you’ll do that on both ends of each strap coming to the bag
itself if you kind of look at that I can see I have one two three four five six
now keep in mind that’s gonna change depending on the box corner you choose I
chose a big wide box corner because I want to have a lot of space for towels
and things like that for the gym let’s say that you chose maybe a four
inch box corner you’re gonna have a lot more visual striping in the front so you
can decide where you want your handles to sit on your back but in my instance I
kind of wanted those to be fairly wide it looks like I’ve got one one here and
then one two three four one two three four five six so kind of a nice opening
I’m gonna put those right here on just like this and we measured down three and
a half inches again you could do a different measure down if you prefer
that strapping to go down a little bit further we liked that measurement and
I’m just gonna use my ruler here to mark that I love my friction pen because I
can take those lines away with heat but I will be covering that with my strap so
I don’t need to really be worrying about hiding those lines so we’ll position
those down here and let’s pin those in place and then I want to show you how to
do that securing stitch that we did on our bag because of course that is going
to have a lot of strain on it as you carry your bag that’s where all of the
basic strain of you the bag will happen and I’m gonna actually mark on my bag
just so that I don’t overshoot it where that one-and-a-half inch line is I’ll
show you what I mean we’re going to stitch down let me secure that just a
little bit better there’s a lot of bulk these pins are going through we’re going
to stitch down hopefully the overhead camera can pick this up will stitch down
come across come up over to my line here across back over we’ve been over this
way here and then back up so let’s go to the sewing machine and we’ll do that
right now if you’re not comfortable doing that just visually go ahead and
draw that on there and you’re just going to beat we’ll get a close-up shot of
that so you can just draw that on if you’re not comfortable visually sewing
that but we’ll go ahead and we’re going to do that right now and I will actually
need to change this out to a single needle at this point and what I will
simply do is unthread one of these and I can use my thread director too as a
single thread director and I will simply be using one of the spools of the thread
and a single needle at that point so I’ve got my bag again the underside is
under this arm so I make sure that I don’t inadvertently so this front to the
back make sure your strap is lined up because
just that maneuvering could be twisting it so we’ll start here and I definitely
want to be reinforcing my stitching I might even shorten my stitch length just
a touch so we’re going to come all the way down
here lift and pivot and there’s a lot of bulk here it can be a little bit awkward
I’ll just smooth it out as best you can making sure you’re not sewing on
something you don’t want to be sewing on making sure your strap is still running
parallel to your seam back up just a stitch there that’s where
I want to be we’re gonna lift and pivot again we’re going to sew up to this line
and then straight across I’m gonna check this I don’t need that anymore that’s my visual target right there let’s lift and pivot now my gaze is
right there in that corner I’m not going to be looking here I’m looking here
where I look is where I will go okay so we’re gonna lift go back over
we’ve been here before it’s great to actually reinforce the bag down here so
that’s okay that we’re stitching there again stitching here and then up my final Lane is here this
is the only area that doesn’t have stitching and will definitely reinforce
once we get there for the other strap or for the same strap I should say when you
bring it around just make sure there’s no twists I’ve done that before you can
imagine you know you don’t want that twist over your shoulder make sure it’s
good and flat again folding under one and a half inches we measure down three
and a half then you’re just gonna repeat that do the same thing for the other
side of the bag and then you’re gonna have a gorgeous bag and again this makes
what you later oil makes two bags I love that one for me one for a friend so
thank you for letting me show you how to make this practical and fun bag and I
can’t wait to show you our next project see you soon

51 Replies to “How to Make a Large Jelly Roll Tote | Shabby Fabrics Sewing Tutorial”

  1. Great tutorial! What kind of metallic thread are you using? I find that they tend to break. I will try using the needle you suggested and that will probably help 🙂

  2. Wow thank you so much, I will make a smaller one for my sheets music, but I need get the métallique thread and support of thread for my janome 9400 first. Does this support fit janome?

  3. O.k., so I seem to have issues with her tutorials. I love how she presents things and the ideas are AMAZING. My only complaint, and maybe a suggestion, is that she needs to show the work. i.e., in the beginning when she is talking about putting the strips together, she should show that. She should show how she organized the strips that she did. Now granted, we all pretty much know how to do this, but if someone who was/is new to sewing and saw the bag and wanted to know how to make it, they wouldn't know how. She should have shown how to lay strips out and also should show how to sew them on. Does she sew them on the same direction or did she alternate the sewing so that there wouldn't be a "bow" when all the strips were sewn on? Another thing, when she talks about the metallic thread and the new thread director that she pointed at and talked about, she seemed very pleased about it, but she didn't show how to attach it to the machine, she didn't show how to thread it. Now, that could have been something as a separate tutorial that she could have mentioned. She could have said, there will be a tutorial about the thread director and how to attach it to your machine and use it. She could have made a link to it in the description box. Another, after she closed the long tube and after pulling the tube right side out and sewed the metallic thread on the newly enclosed seam, she didn't show how she finished it. She only showed about 1/3 of the beginning of her sewing and that's it. She should have shown the entire process so that she can explain how to manipulate the fabric so that you can get the beautiful stitches on each side of the seam. I mean, it's a tutorial. Teach us. Show us how to make it. Even though most of us pretty much know how to make these bags, someone new to sewing who is interested in making a (this) bag and doesn't know how may be a bit confused after watching this tutorial.
    I love SF's and love Jen. Looking forward to seeing more and exciting tutorials. Keep up the great work!

  4. Beautiful bag and very sturdy. For those who have a walking foot this would work great in holding all of those layers. It would be great to use a fusible strip inside of those handles as well.

  5. This is so cute!!! Thinking I might try to make a smaller one for a purse. Would love if you have a suggestion on how to add a zipper possible!!!

  6. Hey shabby the project is very amazing the colors to gather formers the rainbow👏👏👏👏👏💕💕💕💕👍👍👍👍👍👍👍THANK you😄😄😄

  7. Another fantastic tutorial! 👍🏻
    Love to see Jennifer, her videos are always great and so easy to follow.
    I would definitely try to do this bag!
    Many thanks and hugs from France! Merci! 🙏🏻🇫🇷💜

  8. Saw this fabric the other day and couldn’t decide what to make. This is perfect and keeps the integrity of the ombré! Can’t wait to make… one for me and one for my sister! I like the idea of the fusible in the strap.

  9. I always love fabrics that have "friends" in similar colors. Love the way you decorate the studio too. <3 And I want that cordless iron! Ugh, I can't afford it, but some day….some day 😉

  10. What an innovative idea for the bag construction. Plus the beautiful fabric. But most, I appreciate the pattern to go with the tutorial. Great job Shabby Fabrics!

  11. I love this fabric and I have a lot of it. Will make this awesome bag, but if Jennifer has the time I would So APPRECIATE her suggestion for a large throw or a quilt top using this gorgeous fabric line!

  12. Can you tell me how wide (from side to side) the bag is once completed? Want to make a carry bag for my new scan and cut so will probably need to use full jelly roll.

  13. If you cut the quilted fabric in half you could use another sturdy fabric for the lining and make two bags! I really like this design though and will probably make a modified bag with a center zip divider and maybe patch pockets on the lining. Thanks for the inspiration!

  14. Beautiful bag! I love the material. When sewing with a twin needle, do you use two spools of thread? I have not ever sewn yet with a twin needle. Thanks for all you do at Shabby fabrics.

  15. I just want to THANK YOU for your clear instructions! I have a new machine on lay away and plan on making market/tote bags to sell at a local Farmers Market to help supplement my families income! With needing a flexible income due to my families needs this will be a big boost to my hubbys income I Pray!!!! Thank you and many Blessing to YOU!!!

  16. Very nice. I think I would've liked a mention of the finished dimensions. I know it would vary according to the fabric line and the boxed corner size, but with this jelly roll and the corner size that you gave the instructions for, the finished tote is…..?

  17. Oh, I am SO going to make this bag, it's beautiful and a little different in the constructions of most bags. Question – where can I get a Shabby Fabrics shirt? 🙂

  18. It’s so much easier to box corners by cutting out a square on each corner. It will always be accurate and straight. And on those awkward straps, that machine can sew backwards! So much easier than wrestling it! Nice bag, but technique was not great. Very inexperienced techniques.

  19. I would also add some interfacing to those straps, at the very least a few rows of stitching to give them a but more strength. They will be a real mess after using this bag for a while.

  20. What fabric did you use for the handles? I need to replace the handles on another bag and the fabric that you used looks like it could be exactly what I need. I looked in the notions used but could only find the amount used, not the exact fabric.

  21. I made a jelly roll bag from another youtube-demo and had a single layer of batting in the bag and handles. It was made for a work bag to hold my purse and lunch –it SAGGED by the weight and looked awful! 🙁 So this became my sewing/quilt club-guild bag for show and tell projects. YOUR bag is double layered with batting is extra reinforcement for carrying a purse/lunch bag to the office. I agree with one of the comments below on using pellon for the handles, and this was definitely a unique way of making a bag. I'm going to have to give this one more try with your version and will add a side pocket with my initials embroidered like my other bag. I love the metallic confetti fabric and of course all your tutorials. You always use BEAUTIFUL fabrics and lovely ideas–nothing is ugly!! Thank you!! 🙂 🙂

  22. I LOVE Jen! She is so sweet and does such a wonderful job with all of her tutorials ❤️. What I really love about her is how genuine she is. I love to watch her excitement each time she turns a bag right side out!!!! She loves what she does and is a great teacher!!

  23. Jennifer, I just want to thank you. I bought a kit last week – Flannel Easy as 123 (something like that). My Mom fell and is in rehab. It's been a stressful time and having the kit to work on a little each day has helped me so much! Just wanted to let you know how therapeutic it's been for my weary mind 🙂 And I plan to give it to Mom when she comes home!

  24. I love this! I am curious as to what thread is used in the bobbin with the metallic thread? Thank you SF for another great tutorial. Always very well done and easy to follow!

  25. Can't wait to start this gorgeous bag and after with tutorial it will be so much easier! Thank you Jen and Shabby Fabrics!!

  26. Bravo👏👏👏👏as always – you are the best‼️‼️‼️which fusible fleece did you use, so that I can add to my order cart?

  27. I made this very pretty bag, and the construction is unique.
    However,the proportions were no too appealing to mt eye. I turned down about 3” to make a cuff, then sewed the handles on the inset, just below the cuff. My granddaughter loves it.

  28. I LOVE this bag!! I make so many totes, and this is amazing!! I will definitely be trying out this pattern. Love the fabrics too. Thanks Jennifer!

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