How to Powder Coat A Stainless Yeti Cup – Powder Coating Tips & Tricks – Eastwood

How to Powder Coat A Stainless Yeti Cup – Powder Coating Tips & Tricks – Eastwood


today we’re going to be going over and increasingly popular topic it’s going to be how to powdercoat your stainless-steel tumblr if you’ve never turned in one of these before we want to be as interactive as possible so we have Matt over here on the computer another one of our are Eastwood fabricators will be answering questions or you can be shooting them over to me but today we want to go over some of the challenges that you’re going to face in powder coating stainless steel tumblr so we’ll start off the stand is probably going to be one of the most important parts of it obviously mine I just quick whip together out of some scrap aluminum I had sitting around but it gets the point across and makes it really easy for me to show so obviously one of the things i can show right now it’s neat is the progression from your basic you know kind of a generic stainless steel tumblr that everybody has to mean this is just real quick this is our bright red powder so you can see quickly at a moment’s notice you can you set yourself apart from everyone else you know around you you know which one’s yours and go from there so when the first thing I’m gonna do is this particular cup I’ve already wiped the whole thing down with pre so I want to make sure not to touch it not to get my fingerprints on it because all that kind of stuff can mess up your powder so quick throw some gloves on here so I can walk you through what I have on here so the first thing i do is a quick pop it off and you’ll see i have a wad of aluminum foil up there just kind of jabbed at the top of the stand reason I’ve done this is it just gives you that much more contact point inside the the cup of the mug for the ground to go through to be able to attract the powder the next thing you’ll see is I have built a movable stand on here so that way while the cup is sitting down you have a nice flush surface because one of the questions I get from time to time is how do you make this nice crisp edge here because one thing I want to make a disclaimer with our powders there none of you should be anywhere where food is gonna come in contact with your lips going to come in contact with none of the FDA approved but there’s no outside we’re just hand touching their perfect is because you can tell you have a nice little on these things so you know as long as you have a nice crisp edge you don’t have to worry about ever we can get into the food so it’s all external and that’s it it’s just for appearance so I’ve made this stand because it would be very hard to sit there with a fine line high-temperature tape and get it all the way around without you know having any differences with its going to stick so being able to set it down flush on here gives that and then obviously with powder you can’t touch it once it’s been powder-coated because you’ll knock it off so what I’ve done now with mine mine’s very rudimentary there’s a lot of guys out there who have really nice designs where you can actually spin it so it’s nice and smooth and drops it down slowly some guys have pins we just pull pin out and again the plate drops away mine was real quick just got slapped together get this video up and I don’t do this a lot if I did I would build one much you know that goes quicker and one of the most important things i do on here is if you can see I do have a shop towel you know paper towel because i don’t want to go straight to the metal in case the metals not quite straight whereas the lip on this is I might have a gap so this gives me just a little bit of cushion to give a nice crisp edge and that crisp edge is something you absolutely need so i put that on there they’re disposable you’ll see in a little bit when i’m done powder coating it that it’s very easy to strip it and get it out the way so that way when you go in the oven there’s no fear so again most important while I have it here talk about get the pre and is our it’s a wax and grease remover and thoroughly clean the surface from any contaminants that are going to affect your overall powder job you know give you a nice smooth appearance to your powder when you’re all said and done so we’ll quick we’ll go over to the powder coating area and we’ll get this thing set up so we can show you kind of the steps behind it and what I do when I’m powder coating get this over here grab the powder today the person who’s having this one done has requested a metallic purple so we’re going with today’s is the hot code purple metallic it should turn out to be a really nice color on their get the ground clamp onto our base so that was going through and any point make sure if you have any questions you shoot him out to match that way he can read them over to me if we need and get them answered here live on the video so let’s start off with some powder coating one thing I like to do is I like to quick grab a flashlight see how my coverage is because usually it’ll you know kind of give you an indicator if it’s a little bit light somewhere if it’s not you know fully covered so usually look around it one of the places it’s easy to miss it on is right on the lip right the edge just because you know is down low and you’re hitting more in this region up around the center so little spot of mr. here’s a quick touch it up and that should get me the coverage i need one things you always want to have with your powder gun is you want to have a regulator right on it because the pressure you’re looking for is anywhere between about 5 12 PSI is the sweet spot to play on the size of what you’re doing and how do you write out the gun allows you to set it right there you don’t have to worry about setting up for how much line pressure you lose for the distance in the line just makes it super simple another good thing to have depending on where you’re shooting would be an inline moisture separator write out the gun reason I don’t have it on here is we have a really good drying system here so it’s not really necessary but certainly one of the downsides to are not downsides but moisture is a is an enemy to powdercoat same with paint so you don’t want making it all the way through so real quick now I can go over why I built to stand the way I did you get you guys will see because right now our to put this in the oven and bake it as is when you go to pull it out the powder is going to be stuck to this edge that sitting on it can be stuck to the part and that’s something you can’t have so i can just real gently unclip the device scripps and then yes you can see now my base can drop away the vice grips aren’t there you can see that has a really nice clean edge on here you know indicating you know it’s a nice clean edge up on the actual cup itself so then I’ll just come back in here i can do with scissors but have any soldiers to it’s easy to tear Galloway and now you don’t worry about when you put it in the oven so go ahead and get this in here the oven has been preheating for a while before we started so it’s sitting it right around 400 degrees the perfect temperature to be a baked this powder to be 400 degrees for roughly 20 minutes and that’s actual part temperature so one thing i’ll be keeping an eye on is the part itself and see where it’s at get that in there and start going i’ll come back and see if there’s any questions over here from Matt yeah we actually have a handful some good ones here ok so we had a question about does the heat from the oven does it affect the installation of the cup that’s a good question and as what we’ve seen so far no because the the way the insulation is designed on these there’s nothing actually physically in side the cup it’s just a double wall design so it’s relying on the pocket of air to become your insulator so putting the cup or putting the cup in the oven all you’re going to do is just temporarily during the Cure process heat up that inner part that’s all you’re going to do it will call back down i haven’t seen any degradation for many of the cups that are powder coated I’ve done this one I did one of the the the screw down style ones for my wife put our clear coat on it over stainless steel with a vinyl behind it and it’s still to this day holds the cold in just as well as mine which is never even touched so I’d say it’s have doesn’t do anything another we have is is there a recommended material to use as a stencil if you wanted to leave the stainless designer lettering that’s a good question as well one of things you want to look for is you want to look for vinyl that is designed for high temperature because if you grab just any vinyl they don’t all handle the temperature correctly and they can actually slide a little bit while they’re in the oven i came across this when i did the one the the flash for my wife because i couldn’t find the vinyl I wanted in high temp so I took a gamble and for the most part it’s perfect most people can’t tell there’s just a little sag in the in the vinyl you look closely at move just a little bit down but it’s very very difficult to see so there are places out there and sell high temperature vinyl and then there’s some computer-controlled colors that are relatively inexpensive at your local craft store and that would allow you to cut out designs of your choice if you do use stencils one question I get to is when to peel it off so we recommend leaving the cuttlebug in there for the entire cure process letting it cool down and then roughly when it’s you know just cool enough to touch have a good time to peel it off that way it’s still warm it’s still supple makes it easier to get the the vinyl off another one we had in the same realm is they asked it can they use the this process to refinish decorative items in their home ok that that’s a good question as well ask if you can use this to refinish decorative items powder coating is not limited to metal items you can use it on pretty much anything that can withstand the Cure temperature now obviously the powders fluctuate a little bit but for all intensive purposes your go-to temperature foremost powders is going to be roughly 400 degrees so the item your powder coating can withstand that temperature you can certainly powder coating you can do glass vases we do have some examples over here we can always pull out of glass that we’ve done that makes for some really neat stuff quick go grab one just because of how dramatic it is so these are a really nice representation of exactly what you can do with our powders so each one of these was done with you know our translucence and you know when it’s all said and done it almost gives a stained-glass look so certainly anything around the house that can withstand four degrees like this glass can be done with powder coat that’s all i have for right this second ok let’s go check in on the mug and see how it’s doing them mug sure looks like it’s flowing out nicely you guys want to come take a peek know when you’re done yet but certainly flowed out very nicely so we had a question about the the glad you mentioned about the glass someone asked how does the glass get charged to hold the powder what’s the process for powder coating glass ok excellent question so actually the question was if you can how you charge the glass and you actually don’t have to charge the glass at all so how this was done was actually done by putting the glass into the oven bringing the glass itself up to approximately 400 degrees and you bring it out while it’s still hot you don’t have to apply any charge at all you can just hit the part directly with the powder and because the parts already up to temperature is going to flow out right away and or begin to flow out not completely but you begin to and stick to the park so that way when you’re done curing it or done coding it you can put it back in the oven bring the part back up to temperature for the 20 minutes and cured good shit here ok that’s all that’s all the questions we have so far sounds good we’ll hopefully this was a very instructive for you guys if you want to be able to take your your stainless-steel mugs and tumblers from bland 22 all the way you know something that has some pop you can do regular colors ombres where you can do one color up to about the curve finish it with another 1i have some people vast a high-temperature stencil so you can peel it off leaving the nice stainless looking through so as we go out for the day let’s take a look at the mug one more time sure interlaken certainly shown in there was it sitting right there so you can get in there correctly to get you the light you’re looking for we have another question come in here at the end can you mask off areas that you don’t want to get coated and they recovered a little bit but yep you certainly can there’s a couple different ways you can do this you can either do it with a high temperature tape for areas that you’re not trying to get nice naturally clean edges you’re just trying to tape it off or you can also go ahead and you can use a high-temperature vinyl so that way you know those areas that don’t have any powder on it if you’re doing things other than mugs we also have high temperature silicone plugs that can be putting holes but certainly it’s very easy to be able to stop it from getting powder on it so make sure you tune in next time we always look forward to having you here in these woods garage thanks for tuning in

14 Replies to “How to Powder Coat A Stainless Yeti Cup – Powder Coating Tips & Tricks – Eastwood”

  1. A friend of mine made an oven using a large metal cabinet that he insulated with firebrick on three side, and fire-X board on the doors, and heated using 3 electric oven elements, it seems to work fairly well

  2. What would be the process in powder coating a tumbler with a base coat, and then a low temp clear coat? I've read that heat flocking isn't easy unless you're a pro at it, and the instructions in the powder coat gun manual states to cure the first coat completely before curing a second coat. I've also read online that a partial cure, let's say a 60% cure, is a better method before adding the clear coat and finishing off with a full cure for the clear coat? What do the pros at Eastwood recommend?

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