How To Prep Car For Blending or Clear Coat Only

How To Prep Car For Blending or Clear Coat Only

(rhythmic electronic music) – Hey YouTube, Donnie Smith here and welcome to another
video in the Integra series. In this video, we’re gonna
go through the steps to take to prep a panel for blending,
when you’re blending into a panel and clear-coating the panel, or just clear-coating a panel, you know, what do you do if you just
wanna clear-coat a panel? So we’re gonna show you the
steps we take in this video. (high energy music) Now the things you’re
gonna need to prep a panel is wax and grease remover,
because you wanna be certain to get all the contaminates off. You need some clean shop
towels to wipe the wax and grease remover off. You need a six-inch sander
that will sand the surface, and you also need an interface
pad to use with that sander so you don’t sand through edges. And you’re gonna use 800 grip DA paper. 800-1000, I prefer 800. Also some grey scuff pad. Now one option is to use
these foam-back hand pads. And to use this method,
you’re not gonna need the DA, the interface pads or the
800 grip DA sand paper, because you’re usin’ this,
you’ll have to sand it by hand. Now that will take a little bit longer, but it works well also. Now the first thing you wanna do is protect your adjacent panels. You know, cause we’re gonna
be prepping this door, get it ready to blend, and we don’t want to hit
the DA on the adjacent panel and scuff those, ’cause if we do that, you’re gonna have to be
blending into the next door. And you sure don’t want
that so we’re gonna do that by taping off all the
adjacent panel edges, that way if your DA does
slip just a little bit, I mean you wanna have
good control of your DA, you don’t wanna be wild
with it or anything, but if it does just barely
hit the adjacent panel, it’s gonna hit the tape and not the panel. So we’re gonna go around these
edges, protecting the panels. Also don’t forget about the glass. You know, you want to
protect your glass as well ’cause if the DA hits the glass, you know, it’s gonna scuff that glass up, and that’s not gonna look good, so. It’ll look very unprofessional
if you got scuff marks on the molding and glass
in adjacent panels. Or, you know, you’re gonna have to be repairing or replacing them so this just takes a couple of minutes, so it’s a good idea to always do that. And we’re gonna wipe it down
with wax and grease remover, just to make sure
everything is good and clean before we start sanding. ‘Cause ‘member if you got
a clean surface to work on, it not only provides a clean
surface but it also helps your sandpaper last longer,
’cause you don’t have contaminants and silicone and waxes getting up your paper as fast. So it’s gonna make the life
of your sandpaper last longer. So it’s gonna save you money and it’s gonna sand faster as well. So we’re gettin’ that all good and clean. Wipe it down. (light rock music) And, you know, brushin’
through these few steps is really gonna cost you
more time in the end, so just take your time, make
sure everything’s ready, protected, and clean before
you start workin’ on it. It’ll save you a lot of headaches. Okay now on the front of that
door I had just a little bit of a ripple there so I’m
gonna straighten that out, hammer on dolly technique. It wasn’t bad. Just needs a little bit of straightening. (light rock music) Okay now it’s straight enough, it really does not need filler, but I’m gonna get a DA and
just sand it down to metal so I can prime it, and block it, and that should be straight. It just needed a little bit of help there, wasn’t quite straight enough
just to sand and paint over but I’m gonna sand it down
and apply some primer. Okay now I’ve got that sanded down, and now I’m gonna go ahead
and prep the rest of the door and the hood. Now on the door and hood,
we’re just blendin’ into that. A lot of that’s gonna
be just clear-coat only. So I’m gonna use an interface pad, and I’m gonna use 800. I’m gonna scuff basically
the entire panel, ’cause we’re gonna clear the entire panel. So we’re gonna use 800. (light rock music) Now keep in mind, any time
you’re finished sanding, like if you’re using 500
for paint, or 800 for clear, you wanna be sure to
use that interface pad. If you’re leveling, like
we was doin’ with the, that first area there that
I was, had some damage. You take the interface pad
off and that acts more like a block, you know, gettin’ it
good and level and straight. But the interface pad
basically kinda helps go around the curves and the
contours and things like that. And doesn’t, you’re not going to burn through your edges near as bad. That’s somethin’ you need to keep in mind whenever you’re blending for paint, is you don’t want to
burn through your edges ’cause at the end of the door, you know, we burn through an edge,
that means we’re gonna have to prime and paint there
so, be real careful of that. If you’re nervous about usin’ a DA, if you notice that you’re
burnin’ through a lot, they’ve got foam padded
hand pads that you can use. You can use 800 sand
paper on a block by hand. There’s a lot of different options. The DA is a little faster than
a lot of the other methods, but those foam hand pads,
I really like those too, those work really well and
you have a lot more control, and a lot less chance of burning
through, sanding through. And notice that I have a scuff pad there, and I’m also cleanin’ that pad and that helps keep your
sandpaper last longer. Every once in a while just raise it up, run the scuff pad on the
top of the sand paper. That’ll knock all the loose dust off. (light rock music) Now some of those are hard to get, even with that interface pad, it’s hard to get in some of those concurve areas, concave areas. But that’s where a scuff
pad’s gonna come in later and we’re gonna scuff the entire door too and that’s gonna be good for, you know, you’ll do the entire panel but
especially those hard-to-get areas that you couldn’t
get real good with the DA. I’m going around it with the scuff pad. Like I said, concentrating on the edges and on the hard-to-get areas. And whenever you’re sanding for a blend, you wanna use the grey scuff pad. The maroon one’s a little bit
too coarse and some colors, you might see the scratches
so always use the grey for blend panels. And also be careful,
even with your scuff pad. It might hit the tape a little bit, but you don’t wanna be
hittin’ your adjacent panels or anything like that ’cause
if you put scuff on ’em you’re gonna have to spend time tryin’ to buff and polish ’em out or, you may have to even, have
to repaint that next panel. (light rock music) So I’m keepin’ this video,
you know showin’ you the full process, not speeding
it up like I do some of them, just so that you can see in actual time how much work this takes,
about how long it takes. I know it’s probably
long to sit and watch it, but really to prep two
panels for blend and clear, it really doesn’t not take that long. (light rock music) Okay, now I’m gonna do that
same thing on the hood. I am gonna go ’round and get it all sanded with some 800 grit. First there’s that little
spot on the front of the hood, I’m gonna have to blend in ’cause there’s a little
bit of damage there, still it’s not enough to add
filler, anything like that. But it’s enough I’m
gonna have to sand out, apply a little bit of primer, and then block it out. Okay now I’m comin’ with the
800 and an interface pad. I’m gonna do the entire hood. Cleanin’ the pad. And really, keepin’ the pad clean, that really will allow
the sand paper to last a lot longer, which is
gonna save you money, and save you time ’cause
if you keep it clean it’s gonna sand faster as well. Notice I’m goin’ both directions. I’m goin’ long ways with the hood, then I’m coming back and cross-sanding it. That just assures
everything is sanded good. I always go both directions in areas where I can. Cleanin’ the pad again,
keep it nice and clean. And again, this hood’s mostly
just gonna be clear-coat only. There’s those few little
spots that had just minor, minor damage that we’re
gonna paint and blend into, but basically, most of the door, and just about all of the hood,
is gonna be clear-coat only. The reason we’re blending into these is just for a good color match, so that it matches the fender whale. ‘Cause we just try to butt match these, especially with metallics, a lot of times it’s not
gonna match perfect, and it’s not perfect, you can really tell. Even if it’s just a shade off, you can tell that it is off. And if you wanna learn more about blending I will put a video down in the description that talks more about blending
and the purpose of it, why you do it, how it works. (light rock music) And again, you can wet sand with 800, you can use one of those
foam pads by hand usin’ DA, there’s different ways you can do this. There’s not just one way. And some people may prefer
a little finer grit, especially with waterborne
it may go up to 1000. Just keep in mind the finer you go the longer it’s gonna take, but the main key, the main point here, is whatever method you use, don’t burn through the edges. You may wanna start out
usin’ one of those foam pads that you sand by hand ’cause
those work pretty fast. Not quite as fast as a DA, but you have a lot less
chance of burning through whenever sanding by hand. Okay, now I’m just gonna
follow the same procedures I did on the door, I am
goin’ around the entire hood with the scuff pad. Gettin’ the edges really
good, the hard-to-get areas, and makin’ sure that they are sanded good and there’s no glossy spots left. (light rock music) Okay now I’m just goin’ around
and gettin’ the dirt off. I’m just using the vacuum that we have to remove a lot of it. The reason that I’m
usin’ a vacuum is cause if you blow it off, it just
gets a lot more dirt in the shop which could eventually end
up in your paint booth. So anytime you can vacuum,
or some way to get all that dust and dirt off, or
the majority of it off, without blowin’ it all over the shop, it’s gonna be a better way to do that. If you have a shop vac or
something like that you can use to vacuum up a big portion of the dust. (light rock music) Okay now I’m gonna use
some wax and grease remover to make sure the surface is nice and clean because I’m gonna get ready to
prime that spot on the door, and those two small spots on the hood. I’m gonna prime those
so I can block ’em out, and then it’ll be ready to paint. Now whenever I get this
primer and start priming, I want you to keep in mind
I just wanna get the area that needs prime, so I’m gonna kinda, try to keep the prime area small, ’cause the bigger the prime area is, that means the bigger area
I’m gonna have to blend, so I try to keep that small, adjust my gun where it doesn’t shoot out
quite as much over-spray, kind of a small pattern, so that I can just spray just those spots, block ’em out, and then
it’ll be ready to paint. ‘Cause if I get primer
half-way down the door, that means I’m gonna have to
paint halfway down the door. So I’m gonna mask off this
areas that need primed. And I’m not gonna mask the whole car off, because, like I said, I’m gonna
shoot at a lower pressure, smaller pattern, and I’m
not gonna get over-spray all over the car. Using the back masking method here. I use that a lot, works out really good. It’s basically just where I apply the tape to the back part of the panel, the sticky part’s gonna be facing up. And that’ll give you somethin’ to tape your masking paper to. And again, I know this video’s
longer than a lot of ’em, but some of you said you would like to see more of the actual time, instead
of me speeding it up a lot and, or cutting some of it out. This video, I decided to
keep it as a actual time. So you can kinda see the process it takes and how long this really takes. So I’m maskin’ that door edge off so I don’t get a lot of over-spray inside of that jam area. (light rock music) And I would recommend, until you become more comfortable with knowin’ how to set your
gun and your over-spray, it would not take much longer just to drop a piece of plastic over the entire car. (light rock music) Okay now I’ve got some self etch primer, and I’m gonna spray a coat
of that on the bare metal. And notice I spray it on the paper first. You always wanna do that to make sure that it’s sprayin’ right
’cause you don’t want clumps or anything comin’ out ’cause sometimes you might have a chunk come out. So kinda get it, spray some on the paper just to make sure it’s spraying correctly. And notice I’m not
puttin’ it on real heavy, I’m just kinda puttin’ a light coat on. Just enough to coat the bare metal. Allow that to flash and
now I’m gonna spray some primer surfacer on there. So I’m adjusting the gun
where it doesn’t spray a lot of material out. A narrow pattern, thin fan pattern, where I don’t have odor spray
goin’ all over the shop. Just gonna spray these few spots, just to give me something to block out, to make sure it is perfectly level and there’s no imperfections left behind. And also notice I’m shootin’ towards the outside of the door. I’m anglin’ it towards the outside, I”m not shootin’ towards the
door where all the over-spray can be landin’ on the door area. Anywhere over-spray gets,
you’re gonna have to paint that, and we’re trying to keep
this prime area small. Now I did cut out the flash times, but be sure that you allow
it to flash in between coats. If you don’t, that can
cause a lot of problems. Well we have the car primed
and now we can block it and wash it and get it in the booth so that pretty well wraps
up it up for this video. I would like to talk just
a little bit about blending and clear-coat only. This kinda gets more into
the technical side of it. If you’re a DIY, this probably
is not gonna matter to you, but if you’re kinda wantin’ to wonder, how do they come up
with the times for that? I mean we all know like for fenders, each panel has a specific
time that CCC ONE or whatever estimating
system you’re using, you know, it gives you so many hours. For example that door, let’s
say it gave three hours. So what do you get just for blendin’ that? You don’t get the full blend time, or you don’t get the full paint time, because you’re just blending. So the way they figure that,
if that door said three hours, well you’re gonna get 50% of that. So you’re gonna get 1.5
hours to blend that door, as opposed to the full three hours. Now, there are cases where
you’re gonna do clear-coat only. You’re not blending. And that’s like a lot
of the quarter panels where they go up to the roof. There’s no break line. And a lot of the paint
manufacturers recommend no to do a solid blend there, that you wait until there’s a break line. So in this case, if you’re
doin’ a quarter panel, you’re gonna have to go up past the roof, you’re gonna have to clear-coat the roof, and then you gotta go down and clear-coat the other quarter panels. And there really hasn’t
been a time for that that you can go by an estimating guide, this has been kind of a judgement thing. But there is a calculation
that they have came up with and that’s 40%. So let’s say the roof panel pays an hour, and the other quarter panel pays an hour, of course it’s gonna be more than that, but if the roof said one
hour, well you’re gonna get 40% of that, so you’re gonna get .4. Same with the quarter panel. So if it’s three hours on the roof, you’re gonna get 40% of that. So that’s kinda how that’s figured out. Now whether that’s fair
or not, I don’t know. That’s the calculations they came up with. Because really, in my opinion, it takes just as much
time to prep a blend panel or just clear-coat. It takes the same amount
of sanding and time, in my opinion, but that’s just my opinion. That’s not what they
have agreed on to pay us as far as insurance and things like that. So I just wanted to
mention that real quick just to kind of give you an idea of how they come up with
the times for blending and how they come up with the
times for clear-coat only. Well I hope you enjoyed this video. If you did, be sure and
give us a thumbs up, give us a like, share this
video with your friends, subscribe to us is you haven’t, and remember, if something’s worth doing, do your best and have a blast doin’ it. Thanks for watchin’, take care, and we’ll see you in the next video. (“Wildwood Flower” by The Carter Family)

16 Replies to “How To Prep Car For Blending or Clear Coat Only”

  1. Is a dual action sander (DA) any better than a random orbital sander as far as body work goes? (no guesses please – just facts from experience – thanks)I prefer electric sanders and a DA is almost impossible to find in an electric version (as far as I've found anyway).Thanks

  2. hey donnie I got a devilbiss type mbc siphon paint gun will it work as a primer gun an be able to paint single stage metallic paint thanks rob

  3. why use the scuff pad after the 800? I would think the 800 would give you enough mechanical bond for the clear. Thanks for the video!

  4. Probably the best autobody & paint videos on YouTube. Sometimes I watch "Learn Auto Body & Paint" videos for a chuckle. Then I watch yours, so I still know how it's done properly. You obviously have skill & pride in your workmanship.

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