How To Properly Clay, Polish & Coat Your Car! – Chemical Guys

How To Properly Clay, Polish & Coat Your Car! – Chemical Guys

– It writes just like a normal pen does, but this one’s rubber. Also, bet you’ve never seen this before… Ugh. (chuckles) (reverberation) What’s up guys. If you’ve been following along with our mini detailing
series on this BMW E36, you’ve seen that Octavio’s
learning the proper steps about how to detail his car; starting with the wash process, moving on to the interior. And today we’re going to show you how to properly clay it, as well as remove any kind of contaminants in the pores of the paint. To correct the prep of our polishing, as well as adding some kind
of durable layer protection. And we’re hoping to apply Carbon Flex C9. Now, obviously Octavio’s
not here with me today. He’s very busy doing some other things. And it’s also very busy here in the shop so bear with us with any noise. But for today’s purposes
I’m going to show you guys who are new to detailing, how to clay, what a clay bar is, and then also how to polish. So we’re gonna jump right into it. Down here we have a medium clay bar which I’ve selected because this car, it’s been sitting outside and it has a lot of fallout in the paint and it’s got a lot of contamination which gives it a rough feeling. I can even show you real quick, just a quick demo: (scratching) That’s a lot of fallout, rail dust, contamination that are stuck
in the pores of the paint giving a real rough feel and also a rough look. Because as you look at it you can see all these
tiny little brown spots all over the paint. So a clay bar, what this does is it absorbs it and
pulls it out of the pores to give you that real slick finish, but it also preps you for polishing or if you’re going to
apply any kind of coating. And I’ve also chose the medium because a light’s not gonna do it. An OG might do it, but I want to be for sure, and a heavy’s just a
little bit too abrasive for what we’re doin’ today. So I’ve already cut my
clay bar into three pieces. This isn’t a necessary step but I like to do this just
so that I have a fresh piece if I need one. Also, once you knead this up this is just about the right size to fit into about three fingers. So you see we just have
a small piece here. Because if you drop this, it’s just like a piece of gum, you have to throw it away. So rather than throwing
the entire bar away you just throw a small piece. (sticky smacking) You can see it’s very sticky, but this is what helps you
remove any kind of contamination and it extracts the fallout in the pores. And we’re also using some Clay Luber which is designated for your clay. A lot of people ask if you
can use soapy water which, yeah, I guess in a pinch you can use it, but it’s really not designed for clay bar. It doesn’t have any kind
of rejuvenating features that will help your clay bar
last as long as possible. Or, if you’re in a pinch, you can also use a quick detail spray which helps you absorb and
also lubricate the surface so you don’t mar it or scratch it. (spraying) And I’ll just spray the surface, spray my hand, and also the bar. We’re gonna start right here and just work back and forth. And it’s gonna feel kind of rough at first or it’s gonna sound rough. But as you pull the
contamination out of the pores, you’re gonna feel it get really smooth and the bars just gonna start
gliding across the surface. You’ll also see that
there’s a brown run off that’s probably just
the fill from the paint. But you want to get it
as clean as possible before you do your clay bar. And also you want to get it really clean before you do any polishing because anything that’s left in the pores, the junk in there, it’s gonna start pig tailing
or marring the paint, so you’re not gonna get the best finish. It’s all in the prep work. So if you’re gonna do somethin’, do it right and overdo it. That’s why: Do your proper
steps and take your time and get it done the right way. You can see here we got this run off here, but it’s pulling out the fine material that was stuck to the surface and it’s clings to the bar. It’ll give you that kind of brown effect. And then this is what we’re gonna repeat in the same process
over the entire vehicle. People ask me if there’s
a special clay bar for different colored vehicles, which in fact they all are
safe for any color vehicle. You can use it on painted surfaces. You can use it on glass, you can use it on chrome. Anything that’s basically
painted, shiny or clear, to remove anything that’s
stuck on the surface such as fallout or over spray or basically anything else
that you want to remove. And then this is again going to help you prep your car for the next step in
the detailing process. (ambient techno music) So I’ve just finished
clay barring this BMW, now a lot people wanna know what a clay barring necessarily does. And again, all that’s doing is pulling all the junk out
of the pores of the paint. Some people have the misconception that that removes scratches and swirls, when in fact, it doesn’t. Also, when you’re using clay bar you wanna make sure that you’re
covering the entire surface of maybe your palm or your hand. And also, you’re using
plenty of lubrication so you’re not marring the paint. Again, marring is the… It’s inducing scratches and swirls, very fine scratches, and that gives your car a very cloudy, or it gives it a tiger striping effect. So taking your time, the extra precaution with plenty of lubrication. This way you’re not adding
more damage to the vehicle. But now we’re gonna move
on to the polishing step, and over here I have our Torq 15DA, which has 15 millimeter throw. ‘Cause this car has a lot of flat panels so this will cover plenty of surface. And it’s also got a
five-inch backing plate and a five-inch pad so I’m getting the perfect combination of covering the right amount of space while also giving myself some control. And to start off I’m going to use V36 which is a Cutting Polish so it’s got a very fine abrasive, but it’s also going to
finish off very nicely. So in some cases you can
use this as a one-step. But if you really wanna jewel your paint, come back with a white pad and V38. This will really just clean
up any kind of hologramming, any final scratches, and bring out the bring out
the real shine of your vehicle. We’re just gonna add five
dime-sized drops to our pad here. And I’ve already taped off the rubber and plastic trim pieces that could stain easily. This is just a precaution again because I don’t want to add
any more work for myself. But, if you guys choose to run it without putting any kind of tape on there, you like to live dangerously, that’s up to you. But I recommend taping off, or removing anything
that could stain easily because it’s gonna create
more work for yourself and it could be permanently damaged. And we’ll just move over here, back to where we started claying. I’m gonna blotch it out in a small section about
two-foot by two-foot. And if you’re new to polishing, what you wanna do is work
in one small area at a time. Don’t work panel-by-panel. And also what you wanna do is keep your machine
completely flat at all times. What I like to do is put my hand here, just underneath the analog screen. That’ll keep my hand from
tipping one way or the other. And also you wanna make
sure you’re not diving one forward or backwards too much. So this is going to prevent
the pad from spinning. It’ll stall the pad and in fact you’re not gonna be doing any polishing, it’s just gonna be wasting
your time necessarily. You wanna make sure that your ridges, or the lines on your
pad are still spinning. That’s how you know you’re
actually correcting. And also you’re using about
the weight of your hand, so you don’t want to put too
much pressure where it will: One, stall a pad, or it’s
creating a lot of heat where it could damage the paint. But also you wanna make
sure moving consistently about an inch-per-second. This way you’re moving
just nice and smoothly, that’s your arm speed. And also you wanna make sure that when you’re spreading it out it’s on the low speed setting. And then when you’re on
your high speed setting, that’s when you’re
gonna do your polishing. So like I said, we’re gonna
do the low speed setting to spread it out on the small section. And we’ll bump it up to
the high speed setting, this way you can remove
those scratches and swirls, any kind of water spots,
bird stain etching, and then also to really
bring out the shine. (whirring) (ambient techno music) So once the polish is gone to basically clear or translucent, you wanna pull off and take a clean microfiber towel and then buff off any excess. This way you can check your work. See if you need to go more aggressive or less aggressive. In this case it looks
like we’ve brought a lot of that shine out of it. It has a beautiful
yellow paint job already but like I said, we’re getting this car
ready for a coating, so I wanna make sure that
any kind of scratches, any kind of imperfections or
any staining has been removed because once that coating’s on there it’s going to be trapped underneath there for the life of the coating. And also it’s going to give you
just a nasty overall effect. So coatings need to be applied
directly to bare paint. It’s best to do it right after polishing because that’s when the paint is going to be completely smooth
and imperfection free. And also, you can layer on
your favorite glaze sealant and wax after it’s cured to the surface. So I’m going to repeat the same process over the rest of the vehicle. Probably follow that with a
V38 just in case to again, really bring out the jeweled paint. And then we can move on
to the coating process. (ambient techno music) Now that I’ve just finished
polishing off this beautiful BMW you can see that we have this
really rich yellow paint job. It’s basically scratch and swirl free. Obviously there’s still some deeper ones because the car is about 20-years-old. But, for the most part we’ve brought back a lot of the life to the paint. Now we want to protect it, using Carbon Flex C9. This is a carbon coating that we can apply to anything that’s painted on this vehicle to help resist water spots, to repel UV rays and also
prevent scratches and swirls during the wash process, while also adding some more candy gloss. And this is gonna last several years, giving you a long-lasting
layer of protection. And you can also add longevity to that by adding your favorite glaze, sealant and wax. And basically what we’re gonna do here is apply it to our micro suede towelette. And to do that we’re going to
take the cap off the bottle, and we’ll invert it so we’re
not spilling it all over. And you wanna work in
a well-ventilated area. And also since it’s
kinda warm in here today, it’s gonna cure pretty quickly. It basically starts binding to the surface almost immediately, so it doesn’t take hours, or even minutes really, for it to start curing. So we’re gonna let it bond
and cure to the surface for about five minutes. Less if it’s hot or warm or more humid. But for today, we’ll
demonstrate using five minutes. I’m using a overlapping: about 50%. Just like we were doing with the polisher. This way we’re ensuring
there’s no high spots. And we’re also coating
the entire surface evenly. You can use a cross-hatching pattern to make sure you’re not
adding any high spots and this will all even out the product. It kind of helps it
spread a bit thinner too. And we’ll just work our
way around the vehicle. If you are in a time constraint or if you’re working in a warmer climate, maybe you work panel-by-panel. Such as doing the hood, letting it haze, cure, buff it off. And then move on to a fender or the door and so on and so forth. But you can see here, a little bit goes a long way. And all you’re look for is that fine film that’s on the surface of the vehicle. You don’t need to build this up or give it a very thick coat. Just a very fine spread; even little barrier. And then give it time to cure, then buff it off. So I’m gonna finish doing this and I know you guys are excited to start coatin’ your own cars so you can check out these products on our website: or at your local detail garage. If you like this BMW, if you like this video, give it a thumbs up and drop
your comments down below on future videos. And we’ll see you next time
right here on The Detail Garage. (pulsating techno music)

89 Replies to “How To Properly Clay, Polish & Coat Your Car! – Chemical Guys”

  1. Is the process: v36, v38 then carbon coating, sealant, glaze, wax or is it v36, v38, sealant, glaze, wax and finish with carbon coating.

  2. 1 I know for the video is is cut.. ~ how long does it take to polish and coat a car that size? 2 Also I asked on another video no answer.. but what Can I use to get micro swirls from a car door mirror? Ready to order if I can get some answers.. πŸ˜‰

  3. What song was in the "How To Add Ceramic Protection With A Wash"? I'd also love to see a new video of your towels and why you have so many choices.

  4. How many pads did you use when doing the paint correction? You don't talk about that!
    Did you use an IPA or equivalent wipe down before coating? I can't believe your products would not require that step.
    You don't show how to do the intricate, small areas either!
    There's a lot you left out or didn't do. A little misleading video πŸ‘Ž

  5. Just did this to my jeep a few days ago. Used soapy water to clay it. Worked beautifully. Theen did the polish & wax…its like new again!

  6. I Just bought jet seal, butter wax, whitelight glaze and clay bar kit what order should I do them after i clay bar

  7. Pretty work! Great looking ride. Side note: is there any way to dial back that music:voice volume ratio? I feel like an old man saying it, but the music is a bit disproportionately loud when paired with Nick's commentary.

  8. Dang Nick, that looks sick. Amazing! Okay, how much would you charge for some one on one training like this? πŸ˜‚ seriously my 31 year old original paint needs this next level of care. I’d do all the work! πŸ˜‰
    Well, one day I’ll be able to invest in your company’s products and do it right. Sincerely appreciate this series of videos that explain in β€˜detail’ (get it, little dad joke there) and your additional knowledge as well. Keep it up! πŸ€˜πŸ€™

  9. When using the C9 ceramic coating, is it only one coat or can u do multiple? Also can that one bottle cover an entire truck?

  10. Did you guys even actually wash the car before you started the clay barring ? Because that's an awful lot of brown run off from just the clay bar, in fact I have never had That much dirty run off when I clay bar a car after I do a deep clean/wash Dawn Platinum in a foam cannon does wonders :O :/.

  11. Could you show images of the panels on when paint correction is finished enough to apply Ceramic coatings?

  12. My boyfriend suggested you guys the other week cause I’m really into the car/low rider community. Since then I’ve bought about 10 of your products …obsessed and broke much? I think so! haha πŸ˜‚ I know most of the products are good for any color paint but I would love to see you guys have more dedicated video(s) on maintaining black paint in particular. Mine is such a pain! Thanks again for producing such great products πŸ™


  14. Would love to see a customer review response video of their reactions when they pick up their cars.

  15. Hi CG, I have a show car 2007 GT Mustang, the color is vista blue with white racing stripes. This car is garage kept, would like to have more of a wet look when I take it to car shows. What is your suggestions for this?

  16. Please for the love of god CLEAN the red car on the lift PLEASE!!!! It gives me angsts every time I watched a video from you guys!

  17. I used to give Chemical Guys a hard time for their marketing, but every time an F11 Top Coat shows up in my dang Facebook feed I want to throw something.

  18. Ok so, you answer someones question who asked if there was a job opening at your store, but you don't answer a question I asked about car detailing! Thats so rude!

  19. What are tips and tricks to maintaining your polish and coatings waxes etc etc if you live in absurdly hot climates like south Texas ? It gets about 100 or 100+ daily in the summer

  20. I'm a beginner at machine polishing and have a bit of time constraints, so how long would it take to polish with v36 and v38 then move to jet seal and finally a wax? Just wanted to get a roundabout so I could plan ahead.

  21. Is it wise to use a "PVA Towel" to dry your car after washing it? Will it pull the wax off?Will it scratch the paint?

  22. Do I have to use the carbon coating. Or can I follow all these steps without carbon coating, and instead just go straight to waxing?

  23. Hey guys I love your content and I’m new to this car detailing stuff and recently purchased the Torq10fx DA polisher and products to go along with what is needed for the paint polishing, correcting, waxing and ceramic coating as well. My one question I have is if the vehicle has a 3M protection on parts of the vehicle or a whole panel what can I do as far as the polishing steps and decontamination also clay bar for these areas. Thanks your input would be greatly appreciated.

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