How to sew a garment with a fully smocked bodice | Children’s Corner Jamie View C

How to sew a garment with a fully smocked bodice | Children’s Corner Jamie View C

hey everyone, I’m so excited to get this
video out to everyone – I get so many videos about a fully smocked bodice dress. Of course,
this technique will work for any bodice dress pattern, but I am using the Children’s Corner
Jamie pattern view C. As always, all of the materials used will be in the description
box. So to begin, I cut out two back pieces on
the fold. I assemble mine a little differently than the pattern calls for, and I line up
the lap part on the fold of the fabric. So I omit the facing section. Then I cut out
two sleeve pieces, and finally, one bodice front. Now I am making a dress, and not a bubble,
so if you’d like to make a bubble, go ahead and cut out the front and back pieces for
the bubble as shown in the pattern, and you can use the time stamps in the description
box to skip ahead. If you’re turning this into a dress as well,
then you’ll cut one rectangle for the front and another for the back as I’m showing. The rectangle for the front will be as long
as you desire, keep in mind to alott for a hem treatment – whether that be a deep hem,
a lace hem, or using the selvage edge as the hem. Then the back rectangle will be the same length
as the front rectangle minus the back pattern piece. That’s why you see me holding the
back pattern piece to my fabric so I can see how long to make the back rectangle. The widths of both of these rectangles will
depend on the size you’re making, the fabric you’re using, and the look you are going
for. You can play it safe by making things wider than you think you need, and then cutting
those pleats off later. You’ll see what I mean as the video continues. But generally
a safe width would be 3x or 3.5x. And finally, you’ll want to cut some bias
strips. I cut these two inches wide and plenty long. Just one less thing to think about. Alright, now that the pieces are all cut out,
take the front rectangle piece (or your front bubble piece) to your pleater. I am adjusting
how many needles I’d like to use and then rolling my fabric up on my wooden dowel after
a really good ironing. Then I’m just pleating up the fabric, taking
my time, being careful not to tug on the fabric as it goes through the pleater… just let
the pleater do the work. Then I pick a few pleats out on each side
and tie one side of threads in group of twos or threes. Then I adjust the pleats so they
are a smidgen wider than my front pattern piece. This gives me a little wiggle room.
I’m using the grid on this blocking board to measure the width, but you could just as
easily use a tape measure. Once you get the width correct, then you can
cut the other side of threads off in groups of twos or threes. Now if you’ve seen my other videos, you
know I love to do all my smocking and handwork at the very end whenever possible… well,
it’s not possible in this case. You need to do your smocking at this point since you’ll
be cutting those pleating threads as you construct your garment, and if you haven’t done the
smocking, you’ll be out of luck with your pleats. So once your smocking is complete, take some
freezer paper and cut out the shape of the front of your bodice using the pattern piece. Then you’ll line up the freezer paper on
the center of your smocking. This is why a little bit of wiggle room on the sides is
nice to have. Make sure to have the glossy side of the freezer paper touching your fabric,
and then iron it down. Let this sit for a few minutes to cool. And then you’ll have
this stiff assembly that you can take to your machine and go around the perimeter using
a tiny zigzag. You can take your zigzag just on the outside
of the freezer paper, or you can stitch right on top of the freezer paper, it doesn’t
make that big of a difference size wise. It’s slightly easier to get the paper off if it
hasn’t been stitched through, though. But either way will work. Then I cut the shoulders in preparation to
sew the shoulder seams. I take the back pieces and sew one to each shoulder. Then I sew the
front lining piece to the shoulder seams of the back pieces. So basically you’ll have
one circle – your front smocked piece, then a back piece, then the front lining piece,
and finally the other back piece. You can fold the back pieces down the center
and put your front lining touching the back of the smocking piece and give that an ironing.
I like to add a pin at the shoulder seams to keep things lined up. I will say, at this point, it would be a good
idea to finish the bottom area of the front lining. I didn’t do this, but I wish I had…
just turn it under twice and sew along – like a small hem if you will. This will give a
clean look to the inside of your garment without you having to sew the lining to the smocking
section. Anywho… then I took that two inch wide bias
strip, folded it in half lengthwise and gave it an ironing so I could sew it onto the neckline
of the garment. I haven’t cut the neckline out yet, but I’m just following around the
freezer paper, and again, there’s no harm if you sew through the paper. I tend to prefer to sew through the paper,
although it will mean that you have to be a little careful as you remove the paper – give
it a gentle tear and it should come away just fine. And then you can remove the small bit
of paper on the other side of the seam. If something happens and a few stitches are ripped
when you tear the paper away, just sew over that spot to secure everything back down. Then I cut around the neckline. I also cut
the ends of the bias band off to about ½” or so away from the back of the dress. My
goal whenever cutting around a neckline with a bias band like this is to cut just enough
material that I can fold the bias band over and
hand sew it down using those machine stitches. Okay, we are getting there now.. so then it’s
onto attaching those sleeves. First I sew a basting stitch around the armhole so the
lining and garment fabric are locked together and I don’t have to worry about them when
I go to sew the sleeves on. You’ll want to gather the top and bottom
of the sleeves between the little clip marks. And I always gather
using two rows of stitches – one on each side of where your permanent stitches will
go. So I’ll gather the sleeve top a bit, then
pin one side of the sleeve to one side of the garment, and the other side of the sleeve
to the other side of the garment. Then I’ll pin the top of the sleeve to the shoulder
seam and then I kinda adjust in between those pins to get the correct length. Then I take that to my machine and sew around
the armhole curve. Once I finish that, I remove the remaining freezer paper and trim around
the armhole curve and tidy that seam up. Then I finish by using a zigzag to enclose the
raw edges. At this point, your smocking is all attached
with secure seams and you can remove those pleating threads. Oh happy day! Then I took two more bias strips, again 2
inches wide. The length is whatever the circumference of your child’s arm is plus about an inch
or two for seam allowance and movement. Again, I folded this bias band in half lengthwise
and gave it an ironing. I adjusted the gathers at the bottom of the
sleeve until they matched the length of the bias band and then I sewed the two together.
Then I trimmed up this seam with the same idea in mind as with the neckline – I want
the band to fold over and be able to use the machine stitches to hand sew the band down
with. Then I used the continuous placket method
to put a placket in the back of my dress – but I would do the exact same if I was making
the bubble version, too. And I have a video on how to do this method that I will link
below. Then I put two rows of gather stitches on
each side of the back piece. Be mindful of how you turn the placket sections – remember,
the right side closes over the left side for girls and the reverse is true for boys. So now I’m just matching up the back skirt
to the back bodice section and sewing those together. You can see that I’m starting
at the center of the back bodice sections. Once each side is sewn, give that an ironing
and then you can turn it to the inside of the garment and fold over the lining section
of the back bodice. I’ll sew this down by hand later on and that’ll enclose the raw
edges of that seam. Then I gave the bottom of the sleeve band
an ironing and made sure the bias strip was folded over to the inside of the sleeve as
I pinned the sleeve together. You are welcome to do your hand sewing now, but I save this
for the end, so I just make sure the edges are folded over. Then I sew the sides together
using French seams. And I have a detailed video on how to do this that I’ll link below. And at this point, that’s the similarities
that the dress and bubble share in the construction process. If you are making the bubble, I’ll
link a video that you can pick up instructions on how to finish the crotch and leg holes. If you are making a dress, you can hem it
however you’d like – whether that be a deep hem (always a good favorite of mine),
a pretty lace treatment, or just leave the selvage edge – that’s actually what I’m
doing in this case. I find that when you work with really pretty fabric, often the selvage
edge is something to admire so from time to time, I like to show it off. ANywho, that’s
all completely up to you. I hope this video was helpful. If you have
any questions, please leave them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them.
As always, I appreciate y’all for watching and I hope to catch y’all next time.

13 Replies to “How to sew a garment with a fully smocked bodice | Children’s Corner Jamie View C”

  1. Thanks for the wonderful video. Do you wash all of you fabrics before making the garment? And where do you get your garment stands? Again thanks for sharing. I always look forward to your videos. Peace and blessings.

  2. Sarah you always sewing such marvelous dresses 👗 love the way you say very very understanding and your baby 👶 also very cute waiting for more videos thanks for sharing and god bless you Sarah

  3. Thank you for showing such beautiful dress.
    Can you tell me the measurements in metres required for three year old girl

  4. Really beautiful dress. Love this fabric. I have the Jamie pattern and I really like how you line your bodices (unlike the pattern specifies) because you are creating a more beautifully finished garment. Baby Audrey is adorable. Question- if I leave the selvage edge (love this idea) will the skirt be cut in the opposite direction than the pattern indicates? I plan to try this soon.
    Thank you for your detailed and perfectly demonstrated videos. They are very helpful and inspiring!

  5. That pleater is one of the most amazing devices I think I've ever seen! I didn't even know they existed until watching this video but now I really want to hunt one down!

    And thank you for the wonderful smocking tutorial, I'm making a dress for my sister that has a fully smocked bodice and your tutorial is going to be a huge help! 🙂

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