How to Sew Darts | Beginner & Advanced

How to Sew Darts | Beginner & Advanced

hey everyone welcome back to my channel continuing our a to z sewing technique series i’m going to be teaching you a little bit about darts and showing you two different ways to sew them but before we do that let’s look at the anatomy of a dart here you can see these two lines that make up the sides of the dart and these are called dart legs at the bottom of the dart legs we have notches and at the top we have a dart tip if you look half an inch below the dart tip there’s a punch hole punch holes tell the person sewing the dart that the dart is ending and it’s always present on industrial sewing patterns now that we have that out of the way let’s take a look at how to sew a dart if you’ve never sewn one before first we’re going to trace off the pattern piece we’re working on when you get to the dart you’ll want to trace off the notches for the dart legs and the marking for the dark tip starting out it’s not necessary to transfer the mark for the punch hole but it’s good practice to start early on once it’s traced off use a ruler and connect the dart tip to each notch once your pattern piece is cut out and your dart legs have been traced onto the fabric you can match your notches together by folding the dart in half and then pin them together up to the dart tip now we can take it to our sewing machine when you start sewing you want to start at the notches and sew towards the dart tip and you’re going to want to keep the center of your foot right on that chalk line that we drew earlier to make sure we have a perfectly straight line when you get to the end of your chalk line you can do a simple back stitch and then we can take it over to our ironing board to get a nice looking dart you’ll first want to press the area that you just sewed and make the intake especially flat so whenever you open it back up there won’t be too much extra bulk and this will also set your stitches while you’re doing this avoid the tip of the dart because you don’t want to accidentally press a crease into the part that you’re actually going to be able to see and then once that’s nice and flat you can open it up and press whichever direction the dart intake is supposed to fold towards so you’ll have to check your pattern to see which direction that is but on a bodice it’s typically to the center and here I don’t have a ham but if you have a tailor’s ham press on top of that you’ll get a much nicer finish to your final garment now if you look closely you can see there’s a little dimple at the dart tip and you’ll notice this regularly with beginner sewers because they’re using this method to sew their dart but once you’re comfortable with sewing darts you should start using the more advanced method okay so for the second method we’re going to trace off our pattern piece but this time we’re not going to trace off the dart tip notches and punch hole only and instead of drawing in the dart legs we’re going to go straight to pinning this method we’re going to start out the exact same way we did with the last which is to start with a back stitch at the notches and then we’re going to sew a straight line to the punch hole now last time we did it to the dart tip this time to avoid the puckering and dimpling we’re going to do it to the punch hole this takes some practice but once you do it a few times you’ll be able to sew a straight line without having to chalk it in no problem now once you get towards the end of the fabric instead of doing a backstitch like last time we’re going to do a slight curve on our stitches right on the fold of the fabric and then for that remainder of half an inch from the punch hole to where our dart tip would be marked you’re going to stitch as close to the edge as possible and this is going to get rid of any dimpling that you might have before and here you can see my finished dart now if you look closely at the punch hole through to the dart tip you can see how I’ve stitched you’re right on that fold and you want to try and get as smooth of a taper as you possibly can now with these leftover thread tails instead of just cutting them off we want to be able to make sure that our stitch is going to last through the wash and through multiple wears so we’re just going to do a couple simple square knots and then you can trim off the excess thread tails moving on to pressing our dart we’re going to do it the exact same way I showed in the last method by first pressing our intake flat and then opening our dart up and pressing in take towards whichever side our pattern dictates now if you have a tailor’s ham once again you need to use it because it is going to give you the best results and taking your time on the pressing and doing it correctly can hide so many mistakes and will make your garment looks so professional in the end now if you don’t have a tailor’s ham a little trick that I picked up is to get in there to press the dart tip really well it will pucker if you are pressing it flat like here you see all these little puckers now if you want to get that little tip right there you take the tip of your iron and you press into the tip of the dart and at the same time you lift up the fabric so that way there’s no dimples being created as you’re pressing because you don’t want to press any of those creases in to the outside of your garment they’re really difficult to get out on some fabrics once you press them in so there’s my little trick that I do but I really need to invest in a ham ok here is my finished dart once it’s done being pressed and if you look closely you can see that those tapered stitches at the dart tip has helped to blend our door into the rest of the fabric seamlessly without any puckering or dimpling now when you first start out sewing darts it’s ok to have these puckers it happens all beginners are going to start out that way but once you get comfortable sewing darts you really want to start implementing these more advanced techniques that way you can avoid having these dimples directly on your bust it’s not a flattering look it’s ok when you first start out but over time you don’t want to keep having these on all of your garments that would drive you crazy ok guys if you have made it this far I would like to know what are some mistakes that you made when you first started sewing and if you’re still a beginner sewer what are some things that you are hoping to learn moving forward if you guys haven’t been following along up to this point I have the rest of the videos for this series linked below and if you’re new to this channel then go ahead and hit subscribe because we have the rest of the alphabet to go before we’re done with this technique series so until next time bye

100 Replies to “How to Sew Darts | Beginner & Advanced”

  1. Great tutorial! I use the second method but I also reduce the stitch length on the last half inch. I learned to do that from an old article in Threads magazine. It's just another way to make sure that the dart tip is flat and secure. This series is so awesome. I'm so happy to have stumbled not it. Thank you!

  2. I have been sewing for 5 years, by this point I've made multiple dresses, bags, overalls, bloomers, pillows, bought patterns, created my own patterns probably a little bit of everything and yet I still cannot master installing a zipper. of all the things I've successfully done the zipper is not one of them

  3. I was guiding the fabric under the presser foot of a commercial sewing machine and the needle went right into my fingernail. Believe it or not the tetanus shot hurt the most. I'm 64 and that happen when I was 26 yrs old. Still remember it☹

  4. Darts 101, one ABSOLUTELY does NOT backstitch on a dart. One should decrease the stitch length substantially when reaching the end of the dart.

  5. i have been sewing since i was 12 some 45 years ago you learn new things every day only thing your fabric is to dark for me to see exactly what you were doing at the end of each dart

  6. My biggest mistake was when I put lining into a coat for the first time. I did the sleeves and all and when I wanted to turn it inside out, I suddenly knew how straight-jackets were made. XD

  7. …great idea for the dart point…although with such a deep dart, I would have trimmed away the excess fabric to what ever the seam allowance is….also, could not live with a tailor's ham…have it on the ironing board at all times & use it constantly….

  8. Could hardly see what u were doing since both the fabric and thread were dark and the same color. U should show this with contrasting thread so viewers can see it

  9. So after when you make the dart do you cut off the excess fabric. I'm a beginner and most of my work has been lounge pants and heating pad rice bags. I've only made one shirt. It was fine for it being my first time but I know some darts would help.

  10. Im a beginner sewer and i was actually taught how to do darts with your advanced technique but i still get the pucker. Lol. I guess i just need practice. Another thing i am having difficulty with are princess seams. I am new to your channel so i am hoping to find a video on princess seams since this one was so helpful.

  11. After you do this, do you cut the fold that you made with the dart and treat those like you would a seam so that it's flat or are they just suppose to be like that inside of a garment?

  12. I think this was a great tutorial? I think it'd be a lot more helpful if I knew what a dart was and, what they're used for. And how to do one on a dress or skirt. I've seem them before I just don't get what they are exactly. Off to research.

  13. When I first started sewing… I was 7 and only made plushies (still do) but I abused the hot-glue gun, thinking it would hold up just as well as stitches. That, and I used cheap felt, which made everything practically whither away. Yeah… I'm glad I'm smarter now, lol.

  14. When I first started out sewing on the machine I practiced sewing straight lines on lined paper without thread (it basically just poked holes in a sheet of paper). Now I can sew straight lines no problem. Thanks, grandma!

  15. I didn't know that I had to tie a knot when I was hand sewing. So all of my doll clothes eventually fell apart

  16. What is dart , bodice, etc. Can you please make a VIDEO on how to apply our measurements to draft a dress a plain dress no sleeves FOR BEGINNERS PLEASE

  17. AWESOME video!!! very easy to follow, very good explaination. thank you very much 🙂 biggest mistake i made in the beginning: being impatient and fucking it up pretty hard 😀

  18. I’m a beginner and I’m teaching myself so I know all my questions will sound stupid but I’ve never been taught how to do stuff so basically I don’t use patterns so I don’t know whether you’re supposed to allow extra fabric for the dart like cuz when you fold it in surely if you didn’t the fabric would we a wierd shape? Thanks x

  19. As I learned it you shouldn't do a backstitch at the tip of the dart. So you don't have pulled fabric. Simply leave the thread at the end longer and do some knots.

  20. Really clear tutorial. I"m a beginner sewer. My goal is to avoid square boxy designs. I am making my very first top which will be a long sleeve jersey top. I"m going to shape it with the use of darts. To be honest at this stage I will be happy to end up with something I can wear, but it doesn't' hurt to have dreams 🙂

  21. I'm still a beginner, but actually just kinda jumped into the world of pattern drafting because I'm trying to recreate American Girl doll clothes from existing ones I have (without taking said clothes apart as I know they won't go back together the same way), and some things I've learned from it:
    1, seam allowance is pretty important.
    2, remember that the clothing has to fit around the doll, and adjust for that in your patterns.
    3, easing in sleeves isn't particularly difficult for me (that was actually the first time I'd tried it) but would probably be a little easier on a larger scale.
    Something I've learned from making a bag: If you're working with pockets on a lined piece, sew the lining together, sew the pocket to the lining, then sew the outside together, and attach the lining. Or at least, that's what I should've done for the bag.

  22. Having asked for some sewing challenges, when I was 14,I made a dress for Easter. I managed the darts and all of the special secrets of sewing this particular pattern. When I was finished, I tried it on and it was perfect. Then I washed it and readied the dress for Easter Sunday. You have probably guessed what happened. When I dressed and finally put the dress on, it absolutely did not fit because it had shrunk in the wash! I now prewash everything beforeI proceed to cutting and sewing the pattern. It was a very hard lesson for me at the age of 14!

  23. Very good tutorial. Every trick counts. If you have an remnant of denim or duck or heavy muslin, you can sew your own ham VERY easily. Go to Craftsy dot com. There's half a dozen FREE patterns for hams and sleeve rolls. Self explanatory. Btw, the best stuffing for a ham (if you should decide to make it) is the shredded pine you use to line your hamster cage. Get a big package of it at the pet supply store for a couple dollars. Watch for twigs. It smells good, too!

  24. I am home sewing winter garments for hobby.As i understand using darts in a clothe the purpose is to make it smaller to a particular area or in some cases can work reverse to make it bigger by adding some more fabric?This is very useful in the case of countless errors due to undersizing estimation because of the farbic thickness even.

  25. I'm actually practicing sewing so I can make and sell dice bags for table top gaming.

    Not sure a dart would be handy for that sort of thing, but its nice to know.

  26. The angle is the crutial part. Large angles on the dart will create pointy or cone-like outcomes. Not flattering, no matter the method. And for most darts, I found a curved line to produce the best outcomes, not a straight one with just a tiny curve towards the end.

  27. Great tutorial. I'm new to sewing. I particularly like sewing Barbie clothes because they are small and easier for me to handle. I just sewed my first darts into a Barbie dress using this tutorial, and it looks really good. Thanks.

  28. Just found your channel and I’m in love! I love seeing but really just don’t have an technical skill. So cool to see how it really should be done! You’re super talented! Here to support you! Hope we can stay connected! ❤️

  29. big mistake? cut out the entire pattern on lovely crepe fabric…….forgot the seam allowance…

  30. I have been sewing darts wrong. Darn. Too late to pick them out of my daughter's completed dress. Fortunately, they are mostly covered by the cape.

  31. You can use a rolled towel as a taylors ham. If needed cover it with a cotton tea towel. It's multi use then, can use it for sleeves as well 😊. And as an ironing surface if your area isn't heat resistant.

  32. i guess i don't understand why you would extend the tip of the dart with stitching if you still have a pucker to press out…now the tip of the dart is above and over the breast point…just draw the line from the pinpoint to the dart end and sew it.

  33. Thank you for the great tutorial 😊 you can make your own ham with hamster shavings as filler. There are free patterns and tutorials online. I made one awhile back. It turned out well

  34. Subscribed! Who wouldn’t with such clear and well presented advice! 🤗 How about a tutorial on how to make a Tailor’s Ham ? I bought sawdust from a pet store ages ago with that intention but haven’t got it done yet🤪. I’m sure you would think of a great method to do it. 🤩

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