How To Slim Fit Or Let Out Suit Coat – Part 1

How To Slim Fit Or Let Out Suit Coat – Part 1

So I’m going to show you how to modify
the fit, to either let it out so that it’s more comfortable for a gentleman or
to take it in or “slimify” it, a word I’ve recently coined, so that the fit is
perfect. The best way to handle a man’s suit is by taking it or letting out
either the center seam or the two side seams. If the center seam has a vent
below it, don’t take in that seam – take in the two side seams. If the two side seams have vents below them, don’t take in or let out them – utilize the center
back seam. Before starting in the first place, you’re going to want to make sure
that a man’s suit coat fits properly at the shoulders. If they hang too far off
the shoulders or sit too far in on the shoulders, it’s probably not a good bet
to alter this garment. Here’s the suit coat of a very powerfully built young
gentleman. He’s very broad in the shoulders, but a great deal needs to come out through the middle of his body in order to shape him the way he needs to look in this suit.
Because he has side vents, I pinned them closed. We’ll now map out our
strategy for taking in this great excess amount of material so that he’s
shaped perfectly in his suit. Meanwhile, back to the navy blue suit because it has a center vent. We’re going to take in on the two side seams not nearly as much as on the other suit, just enough to make a very nice slim fit for this young
gentleman. Now were we taking out and letting out seams on these jackets, there
would be no way to of course pin in advance. You would simply have to take
the suit apart and see how much seam allowance you had to let out. A lot of
times you can feel through the suit how much you will have to let out. I can
feel out to here, so there would be a substantial amount of be able to let out
if need be. So that’s the strategy when letting out. Now mark all along your pin
line with chalk how ever you desire, whether it be little dots or elongated
lines mark at each pin having made sure first that the other seam is marked as
equally well with pins as this side. If you like, you can do it on the other side
too. It doesn’t really matter. That will become clear in a moment. Now take your pins out and you can see your marks. Now that the seam is marked, rip away the lining so that you can get in there. Don’t be concerned that we haven’t
marked the lining side. Now having stuck your hand inside so that your hand is
right underneath all the chalk mark,s pinch in what looks to be half an inch
from the seam to your mark and we’ll pin these seams closed that half-inch. Go
back and forth to each mark, make it disappear into the seam. Pin in this
manner all the way up and down the seam. When you get to the shoulder blade, it’s
tight quarters – alterations always is – it isn’t a half an inch seam up here, it
tapers to nothing. Don’t be surprised when you can’t get your zipper foot – or
your presser foot, rather – all the way up to the seam where it joins the sleeve,
that’s impossible, and you don’t want that; otherwise you have to then reduce
the sleeve. You’ve got to do the math sometimes on this. Just get as close as
you can, tapering to nothing up at the shoulder blade. Make all of these marks disappear into a
pinched seam. Okay, this seam turned out nicely. We
trimmed it not too close, we left it so that it can be let out again should he
desire, and when it comes to taking in the lining seam now, that corresponds to
the jacket seam we just took in, I didn’t mark it. I feel confident that all
I would have to do is up at the shoulder blades start out at nothing and advance
out to one half inch seam allowance all the way through the hem and it would fit
beautifully. If you feel like you need to mark it, find a way to mark it much like
we did the outer part of the jacket and go from there. Reattach the lining and we’re done with this suit coat. At last, this suit coat is nice and slim fitted for this gentleman. All right, time
to tackle this pinstripe suit, the one that we have to take a great deal out of
the back middle seam, and we’re forced to take out that much through the back
middle seam because of the two side vents. Let’s mark as before at all the pin marks. In this event, I
think I’m going to mark on both sides since there’s so much to deal with. Here
are all the marks then – tapering, tapering – and we’ll finish up here as before.
Release the lining from the jacket and that would be between the two vents in
this case, getting ready to turn this inside out. But before we turn it inside
out, I want to transfer all these marks to the underside because it’ll just make
the job easier while I’m sewing that seam if I can see the marks from the
wrong side. So take your pin so that you can see it on the underside and make a
little mark in between. Won’t I be glad that mark is there. My
seam is pinned and ready to go having followed all the chalk marks. Pin some more all the way down to the bottom. I’m going to start up at the top where it’s narrow, where it’s tight quarters,
and get that part over with, and when I get down to the bottom, all will be well, and if you have to adjust the pins as you go, you do. These are just guidelines for now.
If you eyeball it and it seems like you’re lining isn’t as straight or as
wonderful as you’d like, trust yourself, add extra pins, add extra marks or
eyeball it, and you’ll do well. A-sewing we go. In the end, I decided to go a little short of my marks, and now I’ll just erase them with the steam press. Before we trim the seam from the underside, there’s something you’ll want to do and that thing that you want to do is stick pins all along the seam that you just sewed. Why? Because you need to copy this seam onto the lining, so by turning everything inside out and, yes, it will be awkward
take several minutes, match up the bottom of your lining with the bottom of
the jacket all the way up to the shoulder blades match the lining as
perfectly as you can to the jacket. Pin up to the shoulder blade,
and now you’re in a position to make those marks that you’re gonna be so glad
to have when you’re sewing the lining seam, and what I do when I sew the
lining seam is I take it in a little less than I did the jacket just to make
sure there’s plenty of movement room in the lining. We don’t want the lining to
be tighter quite as tight as or tighter than the jacket. Make the lining a little
more forgiving than the jacket. Okay so we’re down there and ready to sew the
lining seam. Remove the pins. See now how you have your marks that you’ll turn
around and pin that all together. There now, pinned from the shoulder area on down, pinned quite a lot. Notice how I did pin my line inside of the chalk marks. And before I forget, this is where I want to show you – naturally, if you were letting
out either the jacket seam or this lining seam, all of your marking or
pinning would be on the other side of the original seam line here. So in other
words, if you were letting out you would be pinning over here – as far out as
possible which isn’t very much, the most you would probably be able to let out on
this jacket would be a half inch total, but it would be a relief to somebody so
putting my pins back, we’ll go forward with taking in the lining seam. Now the
seams may be trimmed. To press the seam flat now – otherwise it looks bunchy
unless you press it flat – you have to kind of stick your hand up here and feel
and spread that seam, smooth it, press it, Takes a little practice, I realize, but
that’s how you’re going to make it look perfect is by a really great press job after all that concentrated sewing. Sew the lining
back down, and we’re done. We’re all done now, and this is much better looking than
that great big wad of material that was all pinned up in back. It’s all out, he’s
going to be shaped up beautifully in this suit coat.

6 Replies to “How To Slim Fit Or Let Out Suit Coat – Part 1”

  1. I'm just getting into tailoring. I've done some costume work but, I have a million questions about more practical tailoring.

  2. Thanks to your strait forward, clear instructions, I think I'll be able to take in my son's jacket. Thank you!

  3. I wanna this to be done to two suits i have a yellow one and a dark grey one, does anyone know a place were they do this..

  4. Thank you for this informative video. I can now modify someone's suit jacket. How can I modify my own suit jacket seeing how it is impossible to mark it while wearing it? Thanks again.

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