Make a Sleeveless Dress with a Lining from Angela Kane – Part 7

Make a Sleeveless Dress with a Lining from Angela Kane – Part 7


Make a Dress a Second Series I’m featuring my Free Pinafore Pattern again
but this time I am showing how to add a lining This is Part 7
The all important Sewing in of the Lining I will show you the most commonly used method for putting a lining in a sleeveless dress It is considered to be the classic way in couture
featuring hand finishing I think it is the easiest to understand
and will always give good results There are many other methods
which I will be featuring in future videos So we have our main garment and our lining The shoulder seams will be joined
during the process of inserting the lining I chose not to interface this garment I didn’t want to lose the softness of this fabric but it needs a little support
around the neckline and armhole edges I’m going to use a stay tape just lengths of woven interfacing cut on the grain so that it will not stretch and ironed along the stitching line Just cut a length about a half an inch wide It’s helpful to have a variety of interfacings at hand I buy a metre of two of woven and non-woven
in both black and white and in two or three different weights These days I usually buy iron on Occasionally I need something more specific
but it all comes in handy Right, then press on the wrong side
around the neckline and armhole edges Make sure the interfacing is sticky side down Some interfacings need steam to fix them
and some require a dry iron so check when you buy and make a note for the future Do the same with the back neckline and all the way around the armholes This will give you a nice firm edge
when turned to the inside Press long enough for the interfacing to stick You can piece it if necessary So that’s done Now to join the garment and lining together Slip the lining into the dress The dress is turned inside out and the lining is right side out So it’s right sides together We are going to match the centres Our shoulders should line up We will pin the lining just this far Do the same with the armhole Again pin just this far The secret to a good finish
is for the lining to be invisible To achieve this we will use this trick
to make the lining narrower at the shoulders Pin a very small tuck in just the garment
at the shoulder So when we come to stitch
we will loose some lining width So we are pinning just about an inch short
of the shoulder seam You will see why in a minute You see that little extra bit of lining that will be lost
will make all the difference Do the same with the other side and again with the back pinning around the armhole and along the back neck edge When you get to about here take the tuck in the shoulder as before
Just ignore this dart Again, see how the lining extends and so will result in the lining
being narrower over the shoulder and so will be hidden from view So at the machine I’m starting with the back neckline stitch from about this point
an inch or so from the shoulder At the centre back, at the top of the zip I have folded out the seam allowances and I will stitch right to the edges So stitch the front neck
and the armhole edges in the same way Again starting about an inch from the shoulder finishing an inch or so from the edge as before And again, stitch the armhole edges as well Across the side seam and up the other side And again, the back neck from the zip edge stopping well short of the shoulder seam So our edges are stitched We need to trim these edges
and clip the curves at regular intervals so that the seam turns nicely Get quite close to the stitch line with your snips
being careful not to cut the stitches though The interfacing will help to stop any fraying So the edges are trimmed and clipped So, next we turn through for pressing Pull out the shoulder sections The dress is beginning to take shape The next job is to press these edges carefully making sure the seam rolls to the inside
out of view Can you see that when this is opened out because of the tucks we made, over the shoulder the seam is pulled to the inside So we will now get all these edges beautifully pressed Avoid pressing right up to the shoulder We will leave that for when the shoulder seam
is completed That is looking very nice And now the back The lining will be slip stitched to the zip tape We need to press the seam allowances here
to the inside at the top of the neck This will create a nice neat finish
for the back of the dress Continue pressing the armhole edges
keeping the seam to the inside At this stage I like to baste the edges
just to keep them in good shape In the next video we will join the shoulders Stitch the hem and the dress will be finished This dress pattern is free and can be downloaded from my website
angelakane.com All you have to do is register I originally made this pattern up in Blue Denim Watch my first Make a Dress Series and learn about Top Stitching Patch Pockets and Hand Embroidery
as a bonus Thanks for watching

58 Replies to “Make a Sleeveless Dress with a Lining from Angela Kane – Part 7”

  1. I see what you did.You didn't stitch the garment shoulders together and the lining shoulders together. You left that undone so you could pull the lining out.My pattern directions said to stitch the garment shoulders together and the lining shoulders together, stitch along the edges, attaching them, then up out though the shoulder tunnels. But I like this way much better. So now you can put the zip in first, as opposed to fighting the lining and the garment to put in the zip.Very smart!!!

  2. Hey, Angela, can you also show how you slip stitched the lining to the zip? Did you just do that by hand? You can't use the machine to do that? And thanks for sharing this, i'm going to try it as opposed to the other way.

  3. Hi kimdkus, thanks for following this series.

    I'm just finishing the very last episode now. I join the shoulders, slip stitch lining to zip and do the hem. Should be loaded up tomorrow.

    It's been a bit of a marathon I'm afraid. Making the dress is quick – it's describing and filming every bit that takes the time! So glad that it's helpful.

  4. There are many different ways. These shoulders are narrow and impossible to pull the dress through. There are other clever ways but I think this is the best and works for every style. Why are people so adverse to a bit of hand finishing?

    Thanks for your comment. Very encouraging.

  5. Hi Angela! That view you use in the neck and armhole say it's non-slip backing, fusible I could use? passing the backing plate which is bonded to the fabric? Thanks for your videos, I wish you could put subtitles in Spanish. Greetings from Venezuela (using the translator, sorry if you do not understand my question)

  6. In my desire to learn cutting and sewing've seen any number of videos, but these are insurmountable Angela Kane. Everything as well explained, all so clear and simple video editing and fabulous! Congratulations Angela Kane! a "like" is not enough, I am fascinated! Too bad the language barrier

  7. Thank you so much. I'm glad the editing is appreciated. It all takes time!

    I script my videos and am planning to put up captions that can be translated very soon. Especially as I know that it would help many of my keen novice sewers.

    Thank you again for your comments.

  8. You can buy knit lining fabric rather like the silky fabric used for petticoats. I think it is often better to leave knits unlined and team it with such a petticoat. It does, of course, depend on the garment and the type of jersey you are using.

    Thank you for commenting.

  9. I am using a lightweight, woven, iron-on interfacing.

    I script all my videos and shall be adding captions soon. I know that will be popular.

    Greeting to you too and thank you so much for your comment.

  10. Hi angelakane can please show how to cut and sew a men's shirt? And also how can i learn sewing from you

  11. Hello Oheneba, I have a series of videos on making a shirt and it's much the same as a man's shirt, except perhaps for the cuff style. The series is on my site for Members but I have uploaded some episodes here on YouTube – check my channel.

    I have male as well as female members on my site. Guys are making my jeans, T-shirts and the man's cut shirt. My in-depth videos cover all three topics. I think you would learn a lot from joining. I get a lot of compliments.

    Thanks for commenting.

  12. Hi Alicia, I'm uploading a video on sewing in sleeves very soon.

    When working out where the notches go, if your pattern doesn't show them, mark notches about halfway up from the underarm seam on the bodice back and front. The sleeve underarm curve should roughly match the bodice underarm curve, up to the notch. Mark the notch on the sleeve. Then the fullness of the sleeve crown above the notch is eased or gathered to fit the top of the armhole.

    Distribute the fullness depending on the style.

  13. Hello Angela, can you say a few words about the heat you use for pressing the lining? I noticed you don't use a press cloth for that, and I think the lining is polyester or acetate, would't it melt?

    A second question is regarding the stripes of fusible interfacing. I normally buy mine, or use bias cut organza for round edges, but yours is cut on grain and still takes the form of the neckline, how is that? Is it a special kind of interfacing, or would it work for any woven?

    Thank you!

  14. Hello Milena, I have just noticed I haven't answered you!

    Yes, always use a lower temperature for a man-made lining. I try to keep reminding everyone to always test your iron on spare fabric before you do anything.

    I'm using the strips to stabilise the curve and stop it stretching. More of a stay tape. If you cut on the bias it would stretch which we don't want. If you are binding an armhole, that is different. You want to use a bias strip so that it can be moulded around the curve.

  15. Helo, thank you for very good instructions. I have one question, could this way of adding lining to a dress also be used for dress with skirt piece, that has more volume (like circle skirt)?

  16. Thank you for the compliment.

    Yes, you have several choices. You could make the dress and lining up as two items and join them as I have done in this video. You could line the bodice and skirt separately – make the bodice and bodice lining and attach as in the video – make the skirt and lining and baste them together around the waist – sew the skirts to the bodice, leaving the bodice lining free and turn in the bodice lining waist seam and slipstitch over the waist seam. continued …

  17. continued … Ran out of space! You would have to think about the zip. leave a little of the waist seam open at the centre back to insert the zip and slipstitch the lining over the zip above and below the waist – that would be very neat.

    If your skirt is very full you may want an less full lining. On the other hand if you want your skirt to have support you could use net for the skirt lining.

    There are always loads of options. Don't be afraid to try things out.

    Thanks for commenting.

  18. Hi Angela, thank you for this comprehensive video. Speaking of interfacing, what are your recommendation for silk cushion covers? I'm new at sewing and the choices are vast – I'm very confused! 🙁 Thank you!

  19. Hi yinghua, Thanks for commenting on the video.

    I don't think you really need interfacing for cushion covers unless you want to make your silk stiffer. If it is just delicate, perhaps some cheap standard lining material would be good to back it with. Just put them together and stitch as one layer.

    I hope that helps.

  20. Hi Karen, Yes this will be great made with tweed.

    No, I don't do live workshops. Maybe in the future. I did try live online classes with Powhow.com who are great but I found it didn't suit my style.

  21. I would expect to download nto me this pattern, it so happens I have that same fabric at hand intended to make me a coat but your teaching is so professional and well given out to us congratulations and I remain very grateful may I ask a question ? the lining is supposed to be cut bigger measurements than the dress ? thanks in advance for an answer , adina Venezuela

  22. Hello Adina, I'm glad to hear that you are going to make up this dress.

    I'm a little confused regarding your comment about the lining being bigger – where do I say this? I may need to add a correction.

    Thanks for your feed back.

  23. Lovely tutorials. Makes we want to get out the sewing machine. Can you please tell me what kind of table top you are using that you are able to iron directly on it? All the best.

  24. Hello Violet, I use a special surface purely for recording my videos so that I don't have to move to the ironing board.

    It is a large sheet of hard-boad padded with some layers of wadding and covered in white cotton sheeting which I can wash and keep spotless for the camera!

    I wouldn't use it for a lot of pressing but it is ok for the pressing I do during a video. In between I use the ironing board.

    Yes, get out that sewing machine and start sewing!

    Thanks for commenting.

  25. This is such an informative tutorial. I have been making dresses but making a mess of the lining for years. Thank you so much for teaching Angela, I am definitely very thankful and have subscribed to your channel.

  26. Thanks for the video! I'm making a strapless gown and thought this would be the way to attach the outer layer to the lining, and yay I was right! Thanks for the step-by-step instructional!!

  27. Love this tutorial! I learned a number of excellent tips to make this a first class garment! Thank you again, Angela!

  28. hi angela,  please could you tell me what the 'W' stands for on some commercial patterns.   eg. size 28W   Thank you

  29. Hi angela, I am so happy with your classes, I started with a pattern for a long sleeved dress with vent, now having seen your video I am not going to put the sleeves in the dress but do it your way.  So rather than waste the cut sleeves I have  come across a little bolero pattern, so have decided to make the little bolero jacket and add some beautiful trimming to the edges of it and add a little to the centre front waist of dress just to hide the stitching.   The fabric is  silver grey with a tiny white polka dot, the trimming is a mixture of silver grey, black and sparkly silver combo embellishment.  Is there a facility on here to post you a photo when finished?

  30. and its gonna be a size 30 womens fitting – I used a butterick fitting shell pattern, tried the 28, not bad but didn't want it clingy so I did a size 30 (UK)

  31. hi angela, if my dress is a size 30, should I do my little bolero jacket a size 32????  I just want it to be a little dress suit with waist jacket.

  32. I'm going to sound really stupid, but I've never made a dress before, or anything professional for that matter. My question is, do you make the outer dress first, then the whole dress made from lining separately, and then that's where you start by attaching it? Sorry, thank you 😄

  33. After a fruitless search your video is a dream to follow. I am constructing a 3 arm-hole dress from 20% linen/80% silk and looking for advice on sewing in lining using French seams. I do not own a serger. The material is basically a big rectangle with three arm holes, the third arm hole holding it in place. I do not wish to fray the silk, but do not know how to french seam the only lining attachment points: which are the neck, and armholes. Any advice?

  34. Lovely tutorial. I am about attempt to do my first lining of a dress, however mine has a short sleeves. Sorry if it sounds stupid but do I sew the sleeve in along with the lining like making up the dress? Then how do I attach the sleeve lining to the main dress? Thank you 🙂

  35. Best tutorial I have searched high and low thank you so much. Do you have any tutorial where you show how to line a dress with sleeves

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