Odd Jackets – Sport Coats – Blazers – Men’s Suit Jacket – Menswear Clothing Terminology

Odd Jackets – Sport Coats – Blazers – Men’s Suit Jacket – Menswear Clothing Terminology


Odd Jackets – Sport Coats – Blazers – Men’s
Suit Jacket – Menswear Clothing Terminology Hi. Iím Antonio Centeno, the founder of Real
Men Real Style. And today I’m going to talking about sports jackets, blazers, odd jackets.
Whatís the difference? Why do we use all these different terminology and how can you
put it to use in your wardrobe? Okay. So we used these words over, I see them
in the industry often used interchangeably. But my understanding and you know, this is
up for debate, you know, depending on, you know, what form youíre on, I guess what side
of the pawn youíre on and you know, what camp youíre in. But Iím going to give you
my view. So take it with a grain of salt but this is based on of my research, my understanding,
my talking with the lot of the experts in the field. Okay. So the odd jacket. The term odd jacket
simply means any jacket that is not made to have a particular pair of trousers to go with
it. So a suit is defined as a jacket in a paired trousers made from the same fabric.
Odd jackets, by the very name, do not have a matching pair of trousers. So any jacket
out there that does not have a matching pair of trousers, whether it be a blazer of sports
jacket, is technically an odd jacket. So thatís an all encompassing word. You donít see it used very much because it
just sounds odd. And therefore, Iím not going to talk about odd jackets. And thatís kind
of like the overarching word. But Iím going to talk about the two subsets of odd jackets.
And thatís the blazer and sport jackets. And these, in my opinion are very different. Oh Iíve seen some writers use them interchangeably
and I think that that ñ I think itís wrong. And the reason ñ because I think the blazer
is a much more structured piece, sports jackets are more general and you can even say, a blazer
is a sports jacket but Iím not going to go down in that path. Iím simply going to say
that a blazer is a blazer. Sports jackets, I think they develop after
blazer. I think like 40 or 50 years later. And so I look at them as their own pieces.
And they were developed primarily for the man of sport, the man who wanted to still
look good but was going to be playing tennis, was going to be going out hunting, and he
still wanted a jacket to wear. So letís talk about blazers. What makes a
blazer unique? Well, one of the first things or youíre going to notice that they are almost
always blue. Now, blazers can come in red, they can come in green, they can come in other
shades of very dark, I think somber colors. But what youíre going to see is primarily,
they are navy blue. And youíre going to see them in a blue worsted thatís considered
by many of the experts, the classic fabric for it to be made from. But youíll see them
in flannel, you go seem them in hopsack, youíll see them in other, just a regular worsted
wool. So blazers besides being navy blue, they also
have oftentimes very unique buttons. So youíll mother of pearl on blazers occasionally. Youíll
see silver. Youíll see gold buttons. Youíll see brass buttons. Youíll see family heirlooms.
So all types of different things used for buttons on blazers. But the key is the blazer
buttons always stand out a bit more. Although there were some modern men who ñ they donít
want to stand out and they particularly choose to go with a very muted button. The other thing about the blazer is its naval
history and its association with, I think anything nautical. So anytime youíre on ñ
you go to Anapolis or you know, out to Monterey, California thatís where a blazer — itís
going to have a great feel to it. Itís going to be something that ñ it just has a very
strong and very deep history and association with bolts, supposedly from the HMS blazers
where it gets its name. You know, thatís up for debate on that story. But in any case,
I would say thatís what categorizes a blazer. One other thing, blazers also can be double-breasted.
You rarely ever see that. In fact, Iíve almost never see it in sports jacket. But blazers
are, I think by definition, a bit more formal than sports jackets. And therefore, youíll
see them as double-breasted. And usually when youíre wearing a blazer, you want to wear
a tie. Now Iím actually wearing a sports jacket
here and you may wonder, you know, a lot of it ñ well this looks like a lot like a blazer
but itís actually a sports jacket. So thatís probably a great transition. What makes a
sports jacket? Well to me a sports jacket is a general term
for pretty much anything that is not a blazer. So sports jackets have the word sport in them.
And thatís because they were developed mostly in the 1920s and 30s, whenever men were starting
to exercise, more get out and play sports and they wanted to be gentlemenís sports.
And they wanted a jacket that was made particularly for the actual sport. So we saw this in tennis,
moved over into hunting — actually I hunting, itís been aroundÖ Öfor a long time. There have been jackets
like the Norfolk. And these jackets were actually developed
with their own unique style. So you know, this jacket doesnít have it, but on the back
of some of the hunting jackets, they would actually have a lot of vents. So the jacket
could open up more so that ñ you know, a shooting jacket. It wouldnít be a restricted
if youíre going be firing a rifle. So these jackets enabled you to look like
a gentleman and behave like a gentleman but at the same time be a ñ you know, a mobile
sportsman and be able to do pretty much what ñ if you think about, what most of us we
use performance gear when weíre out. You know doing these extreme sports or you know
the tri-athletes, these guys are actually wearing tweet suits. And tweet is pretty rough. A lot of people
theyíre very careful with their wool tweet because they spend a lot of money on it. But
when it comes down to it, a lot of these sports jacket fabrics were developed to be able to
do it, you know, take a rough and tumble. Thatís why on sports jacket youíll see pockets
or shoulder ñ Iím sorry ñ elbow patches. Well that is so that you can put the elbow
down on a rougher area and not have to worry about it. You know, another one on shooting
jackets youíll see actually a leather patch up here. You know, all of these actually had
a reason for being in existence. So getting ñ letís get to the modern sports jacket. The modern sports jacket, youíre going to
see a wide range of fabrics. And in fact this is a sports jacket simply because I got a
check pattern in it. Itís actually a glen check here. And another thing with sports jackets is theyíre
going to be a little bit less formal. So youíre going to see ñ I use what is it, a patch
pocket on this. You canít see my bottom but I got, let me see if I can, yeah, it probably
didnít pop out right. But in any case, use it more ñ use all types
of styles on sports jacket. So I love sports jacket simply because theyíre less restrictive
than suits or blazers and you can do — have all types of fun with them. I mean look at
this really unique lapel over here. Itís a little bit of ñ you know, of a sporty look.
I saw this one time in a magazine, you know, from a designer that came up with this years
ago and I was like, ìHey, I want to do this on my sports jacket.î Another thing with sports jackets besides
the wide range of style, the wide range of fabrics, the fact that they were designed
for sport, I think sports jackets theyíre just overall going to be less formal than
blazers or any other type of you know, trying to match a suit jacket with a pair of jeans.
And so they can go with denim. And I really like to wear sports jacket with denim, always
sports jacket looks great a pair of odd trousers like corduroy or gray flannels or something
to that extent. Okay. So hopefully that clarifies things again.
Youíve got odd jackets, youíve got blazers, youíve got sports jackets and thatís how
theyíre all sort of related. Both blazers and sports jackets are odd jackets. Blazers
are not necessarily, you know, some people argue but I think theyíre separate because
they came about a different time periods. Okay. Hopefully, I did not confuse you. If
I did, I guess you can send me an email and Iíll either redo theÖ

30 Replies to “Odd Jackets – Sport Coats – Blazers – Men’s Suit Jacket – Menswear Clothing Terminology”

  1. Finally! Someone who can explain things in an easy-to-understand, professional and informative manner.

    Thanks!

  2. I have a question. I recently bought a wool-like military style jacket from H&M. It's a men's jacket and it's a mix of black and gray, mostly gray. I've been told by some people that it looks a bit feminine because of the color. I think it's okay. What is your take on it? Thanks!

  3. @AbdurR23 I don't think there's much feminine about gray, no. People may be reacting to some of the military stylings — for a couple years there things like epaulets and other military details were VERY popular in women's jackets. But we had them first 🙂

  4. very informative thatnks for clarifying that with me. I'm looking for a nice sued sport jacket for just running to the store with jeans without putting on my heavy coat.

  5. @Chrono419 Yes! I think we've got some videos on casual dress that might help, and I'm planning to do one on wearing a T-shirt with a blazer specifically, but a dark, fitted T-shirt with dress slacks and a blazer can definitely work. And a dress shirt with a blazer and slacks is always classic casual wear.

  6. I've been enjoying your video series and have learned a great deal. For some topics, such as this one, perhaps having an inset where photos of "other jackets" or when you want to show the lower pockets on your current jacket might help with the explanations a bit. Just a thought. Thank you for making these videos.

  7. We're always trying to expand the visuals in these films — some of these older ones, as you've noticed, were very primitive experiments! I like to think we're making progress, but only time will tell…

  8. If some one can tell me what that style of lapel is called, or if you can list a designer who uses some thing similar, I would very much appreciate it.

  9. Thanks for the info! Your shop is a little out of my budget at the moment, but I have it bookmarked for when I can get away with a custom suit of that caliber.

  10. I had a question, I wanna look good when I go to club and would a navy sports jacket with dark jeans and a dark button up shirt be alright?

  11. I love your videos. I think these sort of subjects would be more helpful with a chart or venn diagram. Besides that I love all of your content (movies, ebook, website, etc). 

  12. I've always heard as a general rule: if it has metal buttons it's a blazer (unless it has matching pants of course). Would you say that's accurate?

  13. I am looking to have a jacked tailored. I want this jacket for after our rugby games where we wear club shirt, club tie, grey trousers and I would like to pair this with a black jacket. Importantly I need to have a patch pocket so I can have the club badge sewn onto the pocket.

    What would you suggest regarding number of buttons on the front/cuffs, vents and lapels? 

  14. I was completely into your videos until this one…  Your other video's were practical and useful to the "every day man".  This particular one seemed to be more about your seemingly useless knowledge of the history of jackets.   I just wanna know simply how to look good and match up various types of clothes.   nevertheless, I'm still grateful for the useful info in your other videos.  I hope this comes across as helpful criticism.

  15. Hello Antonio,
    What do you think of Corduroy sport jackets? Can you wear corduroy jackets with jeans only or can you upgrade it with some slacks?

  16. Antonio, you're doing an amazing job. Although my question has been asked already in some other style fora, I believe many people would appreciate your advice on the following: if a man wears odd jackets on a regular basis (say 3-5 days a week), how many odd jackets should he have in rotation – assuming 1) there are significant seasonal weather differences and 2) suits are worn just 8-10 times a year for special occasions requiring high degree of formality?

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