Powder Coat vs. Cerakote | Which Is Better?

Powder Coat vs. Cerakote | Which Is Better?

so there’s a lot of questions out there
about powder-coated seracote which is better how to apply it and where to use
it so I’m gonna take two parts prepare them identically bring you through the
process of each type of coating and then do a redneck durability test using
real-world situations there are some similarities powder coat and seracote
are applied in much the same way but as you can imagine powder coat comes in a
powder form and seracote is in a liquid form and the end result generally powder
coating is three to four times thicker than seracote and that’s a big advantage
of seracote there is not as much prep work involved since most the time you
don’t need to worry about masking out threads or mating surfaces where you
can’t have a thick finish such as the case with powder coat but it’s the end
result that really matters and that’s what we’re gonna test out today all
right I’ve got to the same exact clutch levers here and they’ve got these
plastic plugs on the end I’ll need to pull them out since they’ll get
destroyed in the oven so stay if I were to put these levers use with powder
coating I would want to mask off the surface and plug the hole too since the
powder build up would be too thick for the lever to be usable however a
seracote I would not need to do any masking the first step with the prep
process is to clean these lovers up with degreaser follow it up with an acetone
soak for 30 minutes after the 30-minute soak comes an
abrasive blast with aluminum oxide media now I’m gonna blow the levers off with
the air compressor and from start to finish I’ll be wearing a set of powder
free gloves whenever I’m handling the parts so why soak the parts in acetone
before sandblasting and not the other way around
well I wondered the same thing but that is the exact process recommended by
seracote and many powder coat and seracote suppliers – from what I gather
sandblasting is the best way of cleaning apart provided you have a clean abrasive
and soaking apart acetone does leave a residue so if that in mind I guess it
does make some sense the next step in the process is to hang the parts from
the rack that way I can run them through the oven for a preheat at 300 degrees
for a full hour this will ensure there’s no residue or anything left behind just
pull the levers out of the oven and I’m gonna spray one out with powder first
allright the powder coating gun I’ll be using is a hot coat sold by Eastwood so
it’s pretty simple setup it just plugs into power and then you have compressed
air right here the ground clips onto the part and then the powder container just
screws on right here the powder I’ll be using is a hot coat it looks like it’s a
gloss black show you what this powder looks like dump out a little bit of it
here so it’s pretty much like any powder you would see think of it as paint
without the solvent I’ve got the gun plugged in and all ready to go got power
err just need to clip the ground of the part and I’ll be ready to spray let me
give you a little demonstration of exactly what this looks like so you can
see just powder flowing out of the end of the gun here so I’m gonna have the
clip grounded to the part the part will actually be electrically charged and the
part in the powder will be attracted to each other so the powder will just stick
right to the surface and of course with any powder or painting process you want
to wear a respirator after the powder has been sprayed out
it’s gonna have a really flat or a chalky finish to it now I’m gonna place
the part in the oven at 400 degrees and check it every 5 minutes to see if that
powder has flowed out it’s been a couple minutes I’m gonna take a look at the
lever yep looks like that powder flowed out so now I’m gonna let it cure for
another 20 minutes at the same temperature the 20 minutes is up I’m
just gonna pull the lever out of the oven and let it cool down
it is definitely glassy all right looks pretty good though now what’s on the
sarahx coating the other lever the process for a spray and seracote is
pretty similar except I’ll be using a liquid and a different style gun this
lever I’ll be going with the tungsten color for you guys that saw my last
couple seracote in videos I was using an airbrush but that thing ended up being
hung crap so I picked up this touch-up gun I’ve been playing around with it for
a little bit and it seems to work a lot better let’s put it to the test so to
mix up the seracote i’ve got the color and a catalyst and i’ll be mixing these
at a 12 to 1 ratio in the cylinder here another thing that’s different this time
around is I’ll be using these little eye droppers and I should help get the
correct ratio from color to seracote guns all filled up a seracote plugged in
made a few test runs and now it is time to spray out the lever man I’m not gonna spread out the
seracote so much better really glad I bought it so I’ve had the lever sitting
for a solid 15 minutes after spraying now it is time to toss it in the oven
and cure it at 300 degrees for an hour the lever is all done with the curing
process and as soon as this thing cools off I’ll check back in with you guys
alright both levers are all finished up and as far as the finish goes the powder
coat was a high gloss so of course it’s gonna be smooth and the seracote is a
little bit rougher it’s got some texture to it
so most seracote comes in a semi gloss or satin finish so the thing with powder
coat is there’s definitely a lot more options out there for color and finish
and with seracote most your options are going to be in a black gray white brown
kind of range they don’t really have much for the red blue orange yellow kind
of thing alright let’s see how these finishes hold up to some abuse one more
thing it usually takes about 4 or 5 days for the coating to fully cure so I’m
gonna give it a few days before I start hammering on them I’ll touch base with
you guys then while we’re waiting on that powder coat and seracote to fully
cure I’ve got some exciting news for you guys the new hats and shirts I’ve been
working on are now available over on primum XCOM absolutely in love with this
hat fits really good got mesh on the back snapback great all-around hat and
the shirt is top-notch as well fits awesome super soft material you will not
be disappointed one bit so head over to prime MX comm to grab yours they will
not be around for long trust me so it’s a few days later and I’m sure that
coding is plenty cared by now I’m gonna do some durability testing on these
pieces so the first thing we did encounter with a part like this is
reduced and rocks hitting the part so I’m gonna test that out right now there
really is no perfect way to accurately and equally test this and like I said
this is gonna be a little bit redneck so I’ve got a rock in the vise and I’m
going to tap each lever against the rock and see how the coatings hold
I’m gonna start with the powder-coated lever first I whacked the lever pretty
hard against the rock a few times and as you can see we’ve got a few chips in the
powder cutting not too bad though on to the Sarah co2 the lever now I gave this
one a couple saw whacks and ended up with a few chips but it isn’t quite as
bad as the powder coating I would say the seracote held that better in this
situation another situation that could happen with a lever is you tip the bike
over and you scrape up the end of the lever on a rock or something so I’m
gonna test that out right now if I just scraping each lever against the rock obviously that rock is pretty dang rough
it’s like five grit sandpaper but it wore through the powder coating fairly
quick now let’s see how the sarah coded lever handles it I would say they’re
pretty dang equal on that one I tried to rub each lever on the rock for about the
same amount of time alright this test is gonna be somewhat similar to the last
one except I’ll be using a scotch brite wheel on the buffer I’m just gonna hold
each lever to the wheel for two seconds and see how quickly the finish wears
through I kind of figured this to be the outcome
since powdercoat is generally three to four times thicker than seracote next up
is sandblasting and again I’m gonna blast on each part for two seconds now
it was kind of tough to give an equal blasts to each lever but I would give
the slight edge to powder coating simply because it’s a thicker finish the next
one is pretty simple just gonna scrape a razor blade against each lever now this
one was kind of interesting as you can see the powder coat went all the way
through to the aluminum but the seracote still has some coating left over the
final test is kind of pointless unless you want to see how well your bike would
hold up in a fire but I figured it’d be fun to try out regardless actually just one more test looks like powder Cody held up better on
that one and I somehow didn’t kill myself in the process that was kind of
stupid now if I were to do a legit test I would also include corrosion testing
and sunlight exposure but those are just two involved overall I would say the two
finishes are pretty equivalent for durability many times stronger than
spray paint but neither would hold a candle to hard anodizing so on the
debate of powder coat versus air coat it really boils down to what kind of part
your coating and what color you’re gonna go with with powder coating you have so
many options for color and types of finish anything from flat to high-gloss
textured translucent you name it powder coating has it seracote not quite
as much now for the type of part you’re gonna be coating this is what’s gonna
make the biggest difference here if you have a part that has a thickness
tolerance or a lot of areas that need masking off I personally would go with
seracote in most cases for example the triple clamps here are Cera coated and I
didn’t need to mask anything off if I would have powder coated them there
would have been a lip here and I don’t think that would have looked very good
and then coming over to the front wheel here the hub is powder coated with a
translucent red so there is a lip right here where the brake rotor sits I don’t
think it looks very clean and I would have avoided that with seracote but then
again I wouldn’t have been able to achieve this type of finish with Sarah
coating you guys are probably confused as heck right now so personally I would
go seracote in most cases simply because it’s a cleaner look and there’s less
prep work involved but then again it is more expensive than powder coat in the
scenario where I want to use a translucent or a candy type finish then
I would go with powder coating and as far as coating engine covers and frames
anything you put on there is gonna wear through unless it is hard analyzing
which is why I’ve gone away from coating my engine covers especially on a
two-stroke your shifting so much it’s gonna wear through pretty quickly
alright so you want to have some powder coating or Sarah coating done but where
do you go with powder coating it’s so popular it’s pretty easy to find a good
shop locally but with sarah code it’s a little more difficult luckily I know
what got it super good actually within the motorcycle industry
trick engineering is the place to go I’ll link their website down below I’m
gonna wrap up the video right here if you enjoyed it give it a big thumbs up
and if you’re new to the videos don’t be afraid to hit that subscribe button and
one more thing head over to prime em XCOM to grab your hat and t-shirt while
they’re still available thank you for watching you

100 Replies to “Powder Coat vs. Cerakote | Which Is Better?”

  1. You should check Cerakote's website, they have tons of colors. I'm talking just about any color you want. I'm not saying you were lying but maybe just misinformed about the selection of colors.
    Edit- cerakote also comes in gloss and people have great success with candy coating when they mix the color with a clear coat.

  2. for spraying small parts the air brush is far better than a spray gun, the reason why the air brush you had was shit was due to it being external mix which is the most basic entry level gun you can buy

  3. Cerakote has tons of colors,and if your cerakote has texture you didn't spray it right you most likely got dry spray (didn't put it on heavy enough).

  4. Hey Cameron, would you be able to sell cerakote on your website I live in Vietnam and they don't ship our way, and me and my dad watch your videos thought we could do a bit to our own bikes

  5. last test was pointless. tells you nothing about the paint, only that one lever broke and the other bent. that was also a result of you hitting them in slightly different spots. the black lever was hit next to the break point in the lever and the other was hit pretty much directly on the break point.

  6. Most people don’t know this, but you can apply multiple coats of cerakote. Spray a coat on your project then hit it with a heat gun till it looks dry then spray another coat. I have about 4 coats on the outer (not areas where tolerance is important) parts of some of my guns, and the cerakote is tough as nails there.
    EDIT: you still have to fully cure the piece in the oven afterwards.

  7. My plant is powder coatingon a conveyor system at 12' per min. That is truckloads. It has it's place. Ceracoat is totally different. Cerakote prep can be longer. However I don't prep as the manual instructions. Clean by dipping in hot cleaner for either Al or steel. remove rust with a pickle dip, then Zinc phosphate. I'm rinsing in between each stage. About 5 mins in each, then ready for Cerakote. Have been known to Al oxide blast depending on the part. As an example am doing my BMW wheels that the chrome is coming off in Cerakote.They look amazing, and as durable as it gets with H series or the Elite. Powder coating would not look nearly as good. It will tend to have some orange peel,and it is is much thicker film. Cerakote is less than 1/2 a mil. Powder is on average 5 mils. Powder could never penetrate a wire type rim,and cerakote is spprayed with aHVLP gun that can be applied to any area. Gun pats in powder would result in a non functioning weapon. Cerakote is perfect for this. Ceramic coating if prepped correctly is more durable, and will appear as smooth and perfect as you are able to prep the part. Powder coating can be done at a much lower cost. Both have their place . Hope this helps. Also know your coater before giving anything to them.

  8. I recommend Liquid 2 Powder from powderbythepound.com.… I prefer it to Cerakote when finishing my products. Goes on in much the same way, and in my opinion much more durable.

  9. I'm not sure where the idea came from that Cerakote is only available in a few colors, because they have many, including the blue and red mentioned in the video, and they are coming up with more colors all the time.
    I have a cabinet full of colors and it's only a small representation of what's available from them.

  10. You can do Wet powder coated, you mix a special liquid with your color of powder coat and paint with a brush or use a spray gun to coat item, then bake as normal!!
    Search YouTube videos.

  11. The
    powder is positively charged and the part is grounded, not the way you said. Very important distinction…

  12. As aluminium doesn't rust wouldn't it be best to polish up the parts and laquer the detail and leave the rest bare so that scratches can be just polished out ? It seems that coating stuff is just setting up to fail as it's inevitable that light damage will occur and none coated parts will be more easily corrected when they start to look tired. The colour aspect is the only reason to coat stuff, but its got so many drawbacks imo

  13. Either surface coat might last longer and be tougher if you aggressively etch the part surface. Maybe with shot peening. Maybe with electropolishing on high current. Try bending a flexible piece of material. My bet is on powdercoat.

  14. Try learning about the products before you tell people things like they are fact. You know, like taking 10 seconds to go to the website and find out they have tons of colors.

  15. Cerakote has lots of colors!


  16. So, I've been looking at options for coating parts and pieces that would be durable. 1 reason I've decided to go with cerakote is that it isn't limited to metal parts. It also works on polymers and plastic. The "H series" has quite a few color options… And thanks to it being a liquid, you can mix colors to get the exact tones you want, you can also do some pretty awesome patterns with stencils and airbrush guns. Just some additional thoughts to consider.

  17. Interesting.. u cleaned it, blasted it, blew it off with air and then paint? How did it not have dust residue after the blast? I'm a beginner powdercoater and i use copper slag cause i get it for free from the blast guy here.

  18. Turn your racks around and you won't need to tilt to get past the anti-remove feature of the oven for cooking safety reasons in the home, almost all oven racks will work this way, both of mine do. Good vid and test.

  19. Cerikote, when applied correctly, should feel like glass.
    Overspending/too thick can cause this.
    And H series should be fully curved out of the oven.

  20. Adam, you have not had much experience in industry, which is OK. A Line speed is determined by the system. I did overflow work for the now closed Murray plant that mfg;d lawnmowers. The Jackson, TN plant ran at a speed well over 18' min. Can't remember, but it was quicker than any other line I had seen. The product would actually swing out at the turns because it ran at such a high rate of speed. They did color changes with modules that were on rails that would allow one module color to push in,, and the other color out. This was after the both was cleaned with air, with complete color change in no more than 4 mins. And yes, truckloads are ran at 12'/min. 300' of conveyor in an oven, with 8 automatics allows it to run quicker than that Think about the appliance market when a system is also running that speed 24/7. One plant in OK, alone uses that much product and much more. Comments are fine, but call BS on something you have knowledge of. As far as Powder coating wheels, it has it's place. I prefer Cerakote Elite, but whatever works use it.

  21. try gunkote. its tougher then cerakote. you need the primer for it though, so its 2 sprays but only 1 cook. Very similar prep to cerakote.

  22. You should tape some clear plastic film on the inside of your sandblaster viewing glass window, other wise your viewing glass will begin to fade and it will be hard to see through it.

  23. You're curing powder coating wrong, gotta get the parts temperature to 350-400 and then cure for 10-20minutes.. not the air temp.

  24. The glossier you mix Cerakote, the harder it is. For a better comparison, try a 1:12 ratio. Also, Cerakote comes in MANY vivid colors. The reason for the acetone bath before the sandblast is so you do not contaminate your sand, which would contaminate the surface. Cerakote also takes 5 days for a full cure. I understand this was a ghetto comparison, just laying down some facts.

  25. If i understand well the reason for this test, it is finally to find out how much of your bike is left when it burns down or an excited guy tries to destroy it with an axe. Jokes left beside, thanks for this clear view of what's about. I like powder coating on some parts, but things like levers, engine covers and even rims, look better in Cerakote, but this is a question of taste only. Some like it mat and some like it glossy.

  26. Finally, a "which is better" video that actually has someones opinion on which is better instead of "both are wonderful use whatever works for you!"

  27. Cerakote has tons of colors, and they can be mixed to get custom colors. They can also be sprayed in layers to get patterns and other looks, like battleworn or foliage patterns. Look at what people are doing to guns with Cerakote. There are way more options than powdercoat.

  28. i've got a question: why do you soak the parts in acetone before sandblasting them? wouldn't it be more clever the other way?

  29. A lot of powder appears to be floating right past the part after it exits the gun. Why? Bad electrical connection? Voltage too low? Should that happen? How to avoid?

  30. Where do you order that bootleg cerakote from? That’s not the bottles that come from NIC industries (company that makes cerakote). Cerakote has a ton of color options, and can be mixed or patterned like powder can’t. I apply both for a living. Cerakote also has a C series that can be used on high heat applications (exhaust) a lot better than powder, and it also has better UV protection.

  31. You didn’t apply the cerakote properly to give it a fair test. Yes the color options when it comes to gloss are much better with powder coating always but you couldn’t have applied cerakote with any shittier technique. That’s why they offer training. Shouldn’t feel rough, and for a coating that should be .00005”-0.001” total thickness opposed to powder coat it’s impressive when not applied like a r-tard

  32. I am going to say powder coat. VERY interested to see the answer. Watching video now.
    My WHEELS are powder coated black. They faded a bit in the sun, but it took years. I think I can just clear coat them and be done.

  33. Cerakote comes out matte unless you mix the hardener at a more concentrated ratio. A bright semi gloss I think is about the max. The max ratio is on their website.

  34. I have seen commercial powder coating to be MUCH stronger. My wheels' coating wore like iron. But Thumbs UP for a well done video!

  35. After applying powder could you leave the clip attached until it is placed in the oven to keep any powder from falling off?

  36. I'm probably just ignorant and learned something, because I thought Cerakote was only used for heads for its thermal resistance, I've ever seen it used like this. It looks way better than other hard coats.

  37. Comment on part preparation I've noticed on your videos. I typically degrease parts like this in an ultrasonic cleaner before and after blasting. It shaves 60-90 minutes off preparation time. I like your oven, I need to buy one of those. For small batches of paint and catalyst, I use the eyedropper to measure. For instance, if it is a 12:1 mix, I use 6 eyedropper full of paint and 1/2 eyedropper full of catalyst. For video of the finished part, the high contrast of the white background blacks out the surface appearance of the part. You should either use exposure compensation on the camera or a black background. For corrosion testing, you can expose to hydrochloric acid or muratic acid found at your pool supply at your hardware store.

  38. Anywhere in the US that would do my triple tree, hubs, kickstart lever and bar mounts for a reasonable price? Can't find a thing!

  39. what the hell are you talking about with cerakote not having color options? I am a gunsmith and we do cerakote all the time and they have the fucking rainbow as far as color goes.

  40. Ummmm, guess they have never been to cerakotes website. Dozens of stock colors and can be mixed like paints to create thousands of custom colors. Powder coat on the other hand is more difficult to predict the outcome due to the change in appearance during the baking process. You would have to weigh and spray and do sample pieces.

  41. Thanks for video… one thing to point out is that Cerakote has many different variations for the same color! The letter at the beginning and end of the code denotes the type of coat and what its good for! Like more resistant to friction are great for gun slides and high temp coats that you can use on pipes and even piston heads…

  42. I know cerakote is very easy to apply to the object but is hard to clean and I’m an Airsofter that is looking to paint my Umarex glock 17 witch is a fully licensed version of the real g17 ,is cerakote worth the cerakote prep or should I just spray paint it?

  43. What brand powder coat did you use? NIC manufactures both the Cerekote & Prismatic Powders powder coat, I live near NIC and pick up my powder in person, their showroom has lots of Cerekote & powder coated samples.

  44. Most cheapskates will not pay for quality powder coat ….. forget about cerakote (professionally applied). If powder is applied by a professional don’t worry about “edges”.

  45. The tests you performed are pretty useless because cerakote and powder coating isn't designed to resist what you have tested.
    It's more for environmental resistance rather than taking a blow torch to them.

  46. I dont think your powder coated part was cured properly to give accurate results. If 2 seconds of sandblasting took it down that quickly, I can guarantee it wasnt done properly

  47. Cerakote had many more colors now, than it did when you made this video. I'm pretty sure that the color pallet will keep growing.

  48. Well you've convinced me… going to use cerakote on my bike parts from now on. I've had NUMEROUS problems with powder-coating on my bikes flaking off and having a lip or edge that gets in the way and its been more of a pain that I though it should have been.

  49. the powder coated piece does not need any more cure time it is ready for service as soon as it cools , you over cured the powder that is why it is chipping and coming off so easy try cooking at 400 degree's part temp not oven temp for 10 minutes

  50. Acetone is great stuff. The human body produces small amounts so as solvents go it's not horrible, and it's so effective it's the standard for cleaning parts used in high pressure oxygen service! It's cheap at hardware stores so it's all win. I found your video while searching for exhaust coating info (I'm going to use their high temp oven cure on a Thunderheader whose shit coating promptly rusted through). My gunsmithbro Cerakotes all sorts of parts and of course powder coat doesn't survive on hot rifles.

  51. Another thing to keep in mind is each color of cerakote for the regular H series and not the elite series has different properties and durability. All of the colors in the elite series have the same properties since they don't have all the filler material used to achieve the desired colors as done in the H series. The best color to test with in the H series is the graphite black as it's the toughest color in the H series afaik.

  52. What TYPE of Powder coat did you use?

    Epoxy, Polyester, Polyurethane, Fluoropolymer, TGIC, Nylon, Metalic ect. each has different wear / solvent resistance characteristics. There is not just one type of "Powder Coating".

  53. Hanging parts in the oven must be evenly distributed. You cannot have one side of a part facing right at the heater element and the other side turned away from the element. One half of the part facing the heating element will get much hotter much faster than the rest of the part. It's a simple fix. Tear-off a sheet of aluminum foil and lay it in the oven right over the element. The foil reflects direct heat away from the part and helps to keep circulating the heat so the part heats uniformly.

  54. Cerakot does have a much much more colorful choice to pick from. From yellow to pink and everything in between

  55. Not hating or anything but cerakote specifically says not to use a plastic cup on the paint gun, because it can cause a reaction with the chemicals.

  56. I'm working in Powder Coating Factory. So I'll go with Powder Coating but not for everything. There are different products of powder (Steel "Iron" or Aluminum). Also different if the subject will be indoor, outdoor, under water, under ground or sun etc.. With powder coating you should know what to use. For example: Oil pipe, steel for building & window frame are powder coating. Some product with 30 years warranty. For car's body & items can't heat up to 200 C (400 F) will go with liquid paint.
    Powder Coating is durable.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *