Prepping and Decontaminating the Surface Before Applying The Last Coat

Prepping and Decontaminating the Surface Before Applying The Last Coat


– Hey, what’s up, everyone? Nick here at The Last Coat. Wanted to do a prep tutorial video on showing how to prep the
surface before applying TLC2. So, right now, I’ve already
prerinsed the surface, which, depending upon
how dirty the surface is, you could either prerinse
or foam the vehicle first. If it’s just light dust,
I’ll just prerinse it, then I’ll go to the foam
spraying at that point. But if it’s really, really dirty, I would suggest just foaming it first, letting the foam penetrate stuff, pressure washing it off then, then go into washing the vehicle, which you can then just go into doing a hand wash with your bucket or foam it again and go from there. But for this video, we’re gonna go right into foaming it now. We got the PF22 with
The Last Soap in here, which is that there. (spraying)
(humming) You could adjust the mixture and everything here on the dial, so we’re just gonna get
this nice and foamy. I’m gonna do one panel. So now I got my wash bucket here. You would normally let this
probably sit for a few minutes, kinda penetrate the surface,
loosen everything up. Then you would go into
taking your wash mitt and start hand washing the surface and removing the debris
and dirt off from here. And always working from the top
down is the best suggestion, so you bring the dirt down here, not bringing it up and down and causing excessive scratching
or anything like that. Okay, so now that we
have the surface washed, we will now go to rinsing it off. (humming)
(spraying) Again, always just, rule of
thumb is go from top down. Just gonna finish those off here. ‘Kay, so we’ve done that, now we’re gonna go into the
decontamination portion, which would be using the clay mitt, which is the Bare Slate Clay
Mitt from The Last Coat. Or if all you have if a clay bar, then feel free to use a clay bar. So, there’s a few ways to
keep the surface lubricated when using a clay bar or a clay mitt. One is just using your wash bucket, use clean, soapy water in here. You’re just gonna get it nice and wet. And you’re gonna take the green side, get the surface lubricated, then you flip to the clay side and you’re going to go up and down and then side to side to
remove the contamination. And you will hear it starting to, it sounds kind of aggressive at first, and then you will hear the smoothness start to come out of it as it’s removing the
contamination from the pores. So just keep working
your way down the panel. If you were to drop this or you get excessive contamination in it, just rinse it off in the wash bucket or take your hose or pressure
washer and rinse it off. Don’t get the pressure
washer right up on it, keep it away, though. You can also do glass with this as well. So, just keep it lubricated. You don’t have to put a
lot of pressure on here with the clay mitt. Just kinda let it float across the surface and do the work for you. ‘Kay, so now we’ve done that. We will rinse the surface off again, removin’ all the soap. And actually, before I do that real quick, I wanted to mention, you can also take The Last Soap when it
gets down to the bottom, you got an ounce left or so,
really not much is comin’ out, you can fill it up with deionized water or distilled water and
make clay lube out of it, so, let me just show you
how that works as well. So, all you would do
is surely just spray it onto the surface, getting
it nice and lubricated. And then you can go
right into the clay side and clay the surface. So, quick little trick and
a way to save some product. ‘Kay, so now we’ll rinse off. (humming)
(spraying) So now we’re just gonna take
our favorite drying towel and dry the surface. And then our next step is going to be, if you were to, now, if you
wanna do a paint correction, you would go into polishing the surface with a compound or a polish. Then, after that, you would go to the step that we’re going to go to right now. Which is what we call an IPA wipe, so 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol, nothing fancy, though it seems
to confuse a lot of people. But all you literally have to do, and you can just stick a, yeah, sprayer head right onto
the actual bottle itself. You’re just really gonna
spray it onto the surface. And even go onto the glass. If you can’t find 70%, 50’ll work. You may just have to go do an extra wipe depending on what kind of
oils are on the surface. Now, this evaporates off
of the paint perfectly fine and will not harm anything. That’s why we’re actually using it. And literally just wipe the surface down. That’s why we call it an IPA wipe. This removes any type of finger oils, oils from the polishing, compounding step, anything that was left over from the soap or whatever you were doing prior. This will get the surface
prepped and ready to be coated. So you’ll actually start
seeing it flashed right here, we have a mixture of water since we’re doing this kinda quickly. But everything will
actually just flash dry up real nice for ya. We’ll give this a second
here to kinda dry up. Then after you’ve done that, you’re gonna go into
applying a TLC or TLC2, or AMP depending on, I guess,
what products you have. So, this is the original formula. And you can also tell the original formula versus the upgraded formula by the color. This one is white, this one is clear, even though they’re the same label. Also a different sprayer head, blue sprayer with the original, black one with the new one. If you also just have AMP, you can do everything that we’ve done here and then go into applying AMP, so, just to clarify. So for this right now,
we’re going to apply TLC2. So we’re gonna take one, two, three, four squirts onto the microfiber. You don’t need a lot with this stuff. We’re going to wipe it
right onto the surface here. What I just sprayed onto
this microfiber towel will do this whole entire door. Depending on how much is
actually left on here, we might even be able to go into that door if we have that door ready to be applied. I always like kinda trying to work it into a hashtag pattern. ‘Cause that kinda puts it
into the pores of the surface ’cause paint has pores just like our skin. So, now I’m going to
grab, we have a wet one. And I’m gonna grab a dry one, and now we’re gonna buff
it off the surface here. I’m not gonna do the edges
because I’m pickin’ up water since we’re tryin’ to rush this here. So now that we’ve done this and we have TLC2 on the surface, and that’s amazing, it’s
so slicker and it’s crazy, I love the way this stuff feels. Now we can let it cure for
about five minutes or so, and then if you have AMP, you can go into applying AMP. Or if you wanted a second layer of TLC2, you could then go into
applying a second layer. You would apply the second layer just the way we applied the first layer. A second layer is always good to do because the first layer will absorb up into the pores of the paint, and then when you put the
second layer on there, it really, really adds
that extra protection and really, really gives a level coating across the surface, just FYI. So that might help some of you guys too. So now that this is cured up, we’re going to go with AMP. And there’s gonna be a real no difference in applying this versus TLC2. You can apply it onto the
microfiber, wipe it on, or you can spray it onto the surface, but a little goes a long way, so if you are gonna spray
it onto the surface, do one area, kinda buff it around, and you’ll feel how far
you can push the product. If you feel like you need
more ’cause it’s not slick, then add more, but don’t
get excessive on there and then try to buff it off. You’ll just make more work for yourself. So that was two squirts
onto this panel here. And you can see it’s
working around real easy. Slickness is really, really picking up. And we even have enough that we’re workin’ up
here across the door. Now I’m going to grab a dry microfiber just like what we did before. And we are going to just
buff it right back on. And AMP can kinda be
used as a drying aid too, so if you spray it onto a area that still has some moisture
and a little bit wet, it will help dry the surface
as you wipe it across, so it kinda like flash dries, so that might help some of you guys too if you’re out there doing
mobile maintenance washing and, you know, you’re customer timed. So, as you can see, this
panel is extremely glossy now, so I hope that helps you all. If you need any other advice, you know, just ask us, we’ll make a video for you or we’ll get on the social
media ways to help you out, so, have a good day, y’all.

2 Replies to “Prepping and Decontaminating the Surface Before Applying The Last Coat”

  1. You can actually VISUALLY SEE the difference between BEFORE and AFTER TLC2. Just look at the reflection on the left side beside the window.

    BEFORE (TLC2) : 5:20
    AFTER (TLC2) : 8:40

    Change is NIGHT AND DAY!!

    EXCELLENT Tutorial 🙂

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