Sewing a Coat, A Sew Along. Part 4, Cutting Out the Fabric

Sewing a Coat, A Sew Along. Part 4, Cutting Out the Fabric


Making The Classic Roll Collar Coat Part 4 Cutting Out the Fabric I have 3 metres of this fabric
I’ve decided to make a matching pencil skirt This is a good idea
as the main pieces of the coat will not fit side by side This is a linen and cotton mix
It was not expensive and I like the soft loose weave It is though a fabric that needs to be lined
as it is a little bit sheer If the cut edge is slanted
it’s nice but not essential to straighten it up This is easily done with a loose weave fabric such as this Make a snip in the selvedge and find a thread Pull it up and you will see the line of the straight grain and then you will be able to cut a straight edge across the width a useful to know I’ve pinned out my pattern pieces
making the best use of the fabric width Make sure you place the back on the fold correctly
ignoring the pleat extension, that is for the lining pattern You want all your pieces placed in the same direction
even on a plain fabric Most fabrics look different depending on direction I am utilising the width by cutting out
a pencil skirt pattern at the same time I have added some length to the pencil skirt plus a 2″ hem The skirt pattern is for a 23″ skirt
and I think a longer skirt would look nice with this coat I have also chalked in a 2″ hem for the coat I have left plenty of room between the pieces
for the seam allowance There is the sleeve and the front skirt on the fold line and the skirt hem line Here is the front facing which forms the upper collar If you can’t fit this piece on at an angle
you could place it length wise It’s not a perfect solution as you will have a seam
at the centre of the upper collar There is always wastage
but there are many ways to use up the remnants Here is a snapshot of my layout This fabric is 54” or 137cm wide So to the cutting Measure your seam allowance to start with
if you cannot trust your judgement Always extend the dart line
It can be trimmed later Accurate cutting out is essential to every garment And on to the next job. Transfer the markings Sewing Tutorials supported by
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