Sewing a Coat, A Sew Along. Part 8, Stitching the Darts

Sewing a Coat, A Sew Along. Part 8, Stitching the Darts


Making The Classic Roll Collar Coat Part 8 Stitching the Darts First of all the darts in the front I like to pick up my fabric along the dart centre fold line Then pin at the point at right angles Then pin along the stitching line, checking the reverse
to make sure the stitching line is matching up Then I put in a few pins at right angles
to stop the layers moving about when I machine And again with the other side Then both back shoulder darts in the same way Now to stitch all the darts Stitching from the edge towards the point Start a little way in and take a couple of stitches
in reverse to secure the thread I take out my pins that are placed along the
stitching line but machine over the ones at right angles Don’t use glass headed pins the smaller the pin head the better and machine slowly When you get close to the dart point
shorten your stitch slightly and machine straight off the edge In other words, don’t do the usual stitching in reverse
as this spoils the shape of the end of the dart We will knot the thread close to the point
and it will never come undone Now for the pressing
It is so much easier to use a sleeve board or tailor’s ham I’ve knotted the threads at the dart point This time I’m using a dry piece of muslin as a pressing cloth This protects the fabric from the hot iron
and prevents the fabric going shiny Yes, that is a nice finish On to the next dart
A single knot is usually sufficient to secure the threads I use a pin to get the knot as close
to the dart as possible My iron is set on steam Sometimes it is more effective to use a damp cloth
especially with woollen fabrics Darts are usually pressed down or towards the centre I usually give each piece a press at this stage Press as you go to keep pressing
to a minimum at the end Now for the shoulder darts
They are pressed towards the centre That looks nice Coming next, Joining the Front to the Back Sewing Tutorials supported by
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