Sewing a Madeira Appliqué Hem on an heirloom garment

Sewing a Madeira Appliqué Hem on an heirloom garment

hey everyone, here I’m going to show you
how to get that madeira applique look to a hem on a garment. I think it looks quite impressive….
although, it is relatively easy. Although I would recommend watching this video all
the way through once to get the whole idea down before applying the technique to your
project since there are a few options you have along the way… Also, this is going
to be much more successful on 100% natural fibers. So to begin, you’ll first need to decide
on the shape you want around your hem. I wanted a little peek if you will in the middle of
the skirt front as well as back and then a consistent curve everywhere else. So I used
my blocking board (on the other side it has the smock bishop layout that I’ve shown
in so many of my videos, I’ll link it below). I used the grid on the board to make the little
peek area and then I did the consistent curve by picking a curve that was printed on the
board and drawing everything with a water soluble maker (I’ll link it below, along
with anything else in this video that you’ll need). Of course, make sure your fabric is
in line with the board before you begin marking the curves so your curve doesn’t go off
at an angle. At the side of the skirts where the curve ends, I put a vertical mark so it’s
obvious to me where the curve stops and my seam allowance begins. More on that later
on… Once you have your curve drawn, then take
it to your machine and stay-stitch around the curve. I used a smaller stitch for this,
say a length of 1.8 or so. On a side note, my stand along tripod broke so in these close-up
shots, I’m using one hand on the machine and filming with the other… bare with me
 Once you are done stay-stitching, then you
can spray that ink away or just run it under some water. I prefer this since the ink has
a nasty ability of reappearing if you simply spray with water. Then I ironed the fabric back out and the
ironing served to dry the fabric, too. Comon, I’m a busy mama and I don’t have time
to let it air-dry. So anywho… Here is an option depending on the look that
you want. I wanted my pink madeira hem fabric to be on the good side of my skirt. So after
ironing my skirt front, I put the wrong side of my white skirt fabric to my good side of
the pink madeira hem fabric. If you wanted a more shadowy look, you could do the opposite
and have your madeira hem fabric behind your skirt fabric. I hope that makes sense… I
may do a separate video on that. So you’ll stitch along the bottom joining
those two fabrics together. This will be the finished bottom of the hem. Then I like to iron that seam to the side
of the skirt that isn’t going to be shown. So since my madeira fabric is going to be
on top of my skirt fabric, I am ironing that seam on my skirt fabric. From there I under stitched. That’s when
you put your seam towards the side that isn’t going to be shown, and stitch very close to
the seam. As you can see, here is my stitching on the wrong side, and here is it on the inside
of my skirt fabric. This under stitching helps to fold the madeira
fabric and have a really crisp definition between it and the skirt fabric. If you skip this under stitching step and
just iron the madeira fabric over on the skirt fabric instead, you can see that it’s a
bit sloppy looking. Some may say that I’m splitting hairs here, but I think it’s worth
the extra step to have a really clean line. So once I understitched, then I ironed the
fabrics together really, really well so I could put pins both above and below the madeira
curve. Some people will say that you have to hand batiste above and below the madeira
curve, and you are welcome to do that if you’d like, but this mama ain’t got time for that
and it’s really not necessary. Then I took the pinned assembly to my machine
and using a very narrow zigzag, like say width of .8 or 1 and a length of 1 or so, stitch
on top of your stay stitching. This will join the madeira curve to both fabrics. When you’re done with that, give it an ironing
and then use some small embroidery scissors to trim just above that zigzag. You want to
trim as close to the zigzag without trimming through those threads. And of course, be careful
not to cut into your skirt fabric. I found it easiest to trim with the skirt on my lap
and kinda pull the madeira fabric away as I cut it… if that makes sense. So if you are doing one continuous piece of
fabric for your skirt, yay you, because you just have to do this next step of joining
the sides together so the curve lines up once. But if you are using two pieces for your skirt,
don’t worry, it’s not that bad. I think it’s easiest to line up a peak than
part of the curve, which is how I set up my madeira design. This is one of the reasons
why I recommended watching this video through once before beginning. You gotta think about
how the sides are going to come together. In my case, I lined up the peaks and started
the first part of the French seam about ¼” away. So you can see here that once the first half
of the French seam was done and trimmed, I’ve got about ¼” or so away from the peak.
So once I do the other half of the French seam, that’ll join the peak together in
a sharp corner, if you will. Something like that… After repeating that process to the other
side, I had a loop of fabric for my skirt. I’ll be gathering the top of the skirt later,
that’s why it’s so wide. So then I took my needle out and chose to
use a wing needle size 100. You basically have two other options – a microtex sharp
needle size 90 or a wing needle size 120. If you’re doing larger children’s garments
or even adult sizes, then the wing needle size 120 is a good choice. Meanwhile the sharp
needle size 90 is so delicate and great for infant garments or handkerchiefs. You’ll also want to use a finer thread so
you don’t have a huge clump of thread filling up each hole. And your thread should be a
natural fiber. I used a 100% cotton thread and dmc 50… which is kinda on the lighter
weight, but there are finer options in the 70 weight or 80 weight even. So to do those gorgeous little holes, you’ll
use a hem stitch. You’ll want to pick a stitch that is bold and has a little ladder
look to it with only one side. The bold means the needle is going into the spots multiple
times. Play around with yours on a test fabric to make sure it’s the correct stitch and
you have the settings as you’d like. I used the default width of 2.5 or something, but
I shortened the length a bit so the probability of ending up on top of a curve increased. You’ll need some stabilizer to keep the
holes crisp. I used some tear away stabilizer since I couldn’t find my stitch in the ditch,
but either will work fine. I know so very little about stabilizer, but I think a dissolvable
one would work, too. I just placed a strip of the stabilizer behind
the madeira area that’ll get the hemstitch. You’ll want to place the stabilizer on the
wrong side of your work. Now if this is your first time doing a hemstitch,
I recommend practicing to get the rhythm down of the pattern. I’m not sure if all machines
have the same pattern, but you can see that my machine will go into the next hole on the
left after it goes to do that side hole on the right. So you’ll see it does the dance
from front to back to front and then side steps to the right, back to the left and then
makes the next hole… this is important to realize when your machine makes the next hole
so you know when to turn your work. And when you turn your work, do it very gradually.
Think of it like connecting straight lines that make a gradual curve. Don’t think of
it like curving all around since you want the needle to maintain its spot in all the
holes that are currently in the pattern. I hope all of that makes sense. If you are off
by one thread when the needle goes into the fabric, then it’ll make that hole look sloppy.
If you get into a tricky area, use the hand crack and go slowly. Now when I get to the peak, I’ll go one
more hole past the peak. Then I’ll turn the work and when I continue stitching, the
next side stitch will go into the previous side stitch… and then the pattern resumes
as normal. So that’s it. Once you’re done with the
hemstitch, you can remove the stabilizer, give everything a good ironing and then you’ll
have this pretty madeira hem. One of my all-time favorite embellishments. This would be a great
treatment for a collar, too. And very easy to apply to baby boy’s clothes as well. If you have any questions, please leave them
in the comments below. As always, I appreciate y’all for watching and I hope to catch ya
next time.

18 Replies to “Sewing a Madeira Appliqué Hem on an heirloom garment”

  1. Thanks Sarah! This is one of those things I've wanted to learn for ages but it looked so complicated. LOVE your videos.

  2. Love this! So glad to see a new video! I hope that all is well and y'all are settling into your new home fast!

  3. Thank you again for the helpful video! Hey- do you have any help you can show on how to do a perfect Peter Pan collar? And possibly with piping or lace ruffle? My skills in that area are pretty hit or miss.

  4. Thank you Sarah this is so beautiful. Where did you learn all your techniques from? You are a wonderful teacher! xxx

  5. Sara, I've said it before, & I will say it once more, BEAUTIFUL WORK. Clear instruction's, & so patient, we can tell. Thanks again! Beautiful!

  6. ohhh my !!!Sarah I love your work !! you are so talented ! and thank you so much to show every detail of your knowledge.Huge hugs.

  7. Thank you Sara!! My first time watching and I will be watching again (and again!) Your very gentle southern accent just makes the entire video all the more pleasant. Excellent close ups and hints and tricks for this classic heirloom look.

  8. Sarah, love your videos, you are a great inspiration for me to do some beautiful dresses for my granddaughter born ladt Valentine's day. Can you show a picture of the completed Madeira hem dress?

  9. I can see that future overtime will be buying me that pressing board, I hope I can make some of the printed lines work for larger sized doll clothing. I already know i will be adding to the neck/bishop neck sizing to go down to necks for dolls!

  10. Hi Sarah! Years ago I attended a Martha Pullen School of Art Fashion. It was there I was first introduced to heirloom sewing. I had an amazing week there and learned so much! I learned how to do the shadow sewing there. This is a fantastic refresher for me. I am so honored to have found your channel.

  11. Hi again, Sarah. Jane here to let you know how much your detailed videos are appreciated. You are so talented, and it seems there is nothing you can't do, Wonder Woman!! Thanks for all of your hard work and making it appear effortless when it takes time and energy to share your gifts with us. Take care and God bless.

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