Should I Powder Coat My Hubs?

Should I Powder Coat My Hubs?


one part that gets a lot of attention on
the dirt bike is the hub on a wheel if you have a good-looking hub that is hard
to top so most stock hubs come in a cast
aluminum form which has a rough kind of textured finish on it and it does not
look very good so I’m gonna bring you through the process I’ve given these
hubs back here a machined or like brushed aluminum look to it using just a
couple of supplies all right I’ve got a set of stock hubs off at cr250 here and
they are pretty rough from the factory got a casting line here and just all the
dimples from the casting process and here are the supplies I’ll be using to
bring these hubs back to life got a file a coarse scotch-brite wheel a finer grit
scotch brite wheel and a few cartridge rules that’ll be mounted on a drill the
first order of business is going to be filing down these bigger chunks got a
casting stamp and a few casting lines one thing you got to be conscious of
when you’re using a flat file especially on a rounded part like this hub as
you’re moving towards the rounded part it’s really easy to dig a groove into
the side of the hub I ended up doing it on this side but I caught myself before
it got too bad and I was able to smooth it out all right that is looking pretty
good for this side got one more casting line over here and then this hub will be
ready for the bench grinder and of course there’s easier ways to go about
this if you have an angle grinder and a good air compressor that would work a
lot quicker than using a file while I’m at it a few of these spoke holes have
some rough edges around them I’m gonna go ahead and file that away as well I’ve got one last caste mark on the rear
hub to remove I’m gonna try something different on this one I’ve got these
little Dremel tools that I’m gonna throw in the drill I really wish I had an air
compressor that was capable of running air tools that would make the job a lot
easier but the drill is gonna have to do for
now all right I’ve got the casting lines and
stamps ground off the hubs and now they’re ready for the next stage which
is gonna be bringing them over to the buffing machine it’s got the chorus
scotch-brite wheel on it right now and this wheel is gonna remove the filing
and grinding marks I made earlier as well as smoothing out that casting
texture that’s on the hub so the scotch-brite wheel seems to be
working fantastic so far doing a really good job at smoothening out these
casting marks and then took care of those filing and grinding marks as well
I definitely learned my lesson on the shock buddy and for clogs though you
really don’t want to hold the part on the wheel in the same spot for an
extended period of time always want to keep the part moving on the wheel as
you’re buffing it if you hold it in one spot obviously it’s gonna make somewhat
of a flat mark and that’ll be pretty visible on something rounded such as
this hub so that is everything I can do on the front hub with the coarse
scotch-brite wheel now I’m going to knock out the rear hub real quick I tell you what guys
these hubs are looking freakin sweet so far the scotch-brite wheel is definitely
working its magic I’ve been super impressed with how smooth and consistent
that finishes already and this is only the first stage and I’ve actually been
using the same exact scotch brite wheel on both the hubs and the shock body and
fork lugs from a few videos back and this thing has hardly worn down at all
these last forever to pick one up for yourself click the first link down in
the description alright so the center of the hubs are looking really good now the
ends are gonna need some work got some corrosion and of course the casting
texture all that will be taken care of with the sandpaper rolls and I’ve got
the mandrel to attach these rolls to a drill or an air tool to make the same
paper rolls lasts a bit longer and cut quicker I’ve got this stick of wax so
you just apply it to you the sandpaper roll and it seems to be helping out
quite a bit so I’ll be starting out with the coarse grit sandpaper and then
moving on to the finer grit to give it that smooth finish and these little
tapered rolls they are super handy to have for getting in those tight areas
well guys let’s get to work this is gonna take some time on these tapered rolls once the first
half of it wears out you can flip it around to get a little bit more use out
of it but you might have to put a screwdriver through poke it at the end
and then put it on to the drill so these sandpaper rolls are rolled a
certain way and they’re not going to last quite as long with them being
flipped around on the mandrel like this so I’m done with the first stage using
the coarse grit sandpaper it’s looking pretty scuffed up but now I’m gonna move
on to the fine grit sandpaper and give this thing a nice finish so the front
hub is finished up but it is definitely a little more rough than I would have
hoped getting in all these tight areas is pretty tough to do but overall the
finish is pretty consistent and there’s no deep gouges in it so I can live with
it with that being said there’s a few different things I want to try with this
rear hub to see if I can get the finish a little bit better one thing I noticed
is the wax I was using which are out pretty quickly and start to build up on
the sandpaper roll so I’m gonna give a liquid lubricant a
shop this is MP PL by máxima pretty much a wd-40 after about 10 minutes of grinding the
rear hub is starting to look pretty good definitely happy with how this is
turning out compared to the front hub so the NPPL
is working a lot better than the wax was I just really wish there was a way to
get the finish on the outside of the hub similar to the inside I just love that
finish right there so the hubs are all done and that was
definitely a learning experience I think if I were to do it again I would do just
the center of the hubs with a scotch-brite wheel and then for the ends
just shine him up with a wire wheel instead of grinding all those casting
marks off I’m really glad I gave the same paper rolls a shot though next time
around will be so much easier but really the end result wasn’t too bad just
wasn’t quite the finish I was going for all right what to do with the hubs so I
could leave them how they are or I could go ahead and powder coat them I’m gonna
leave that one up to you guys so put it down in the comments below whether I
should leave them or powder coat them and whatever you guys decide that’s what
I’m gonna do in my opinion I think they look pretty cool how they are but powder
coating on top of that smooth finish is gonna look pretty sweet too
before I forget I need to go pick the winner for these stickers from the last
video got the youtube comment picker pulled up loading up all the comments
here you guys crushed it on this one left a crap ton of comments there’s
probably two thousand I want to say 1,700 that is unbelievable alright just
gonna pick a complete random comment here all right we’ve got Bret Lancaster 385
and he says PA so I’m guessing Pennsylvania so Bret
Lancaster shoot me a message here on YouTube and I’ll get these stickers over
to you well it was good to see you guys again if you enjoy the video make sure
you drop a like and don’t forget to leave your comment down below whether I
should leave these hubs or powder coat oh and you want to make your hubs look
like this cruise on over to prime em XCOM and pick yourself up a scotch-brite
wheel alright take care everyone I’ll see you later

100 Replies to “Should I Powder Coat My Hubs?”

  1. I would match the hubs with the rear spring you did. I've been doing this same type of finish on various parts on my bike and I've had good luck with small scotch brite wheels that go on a drill. They're worth a shot, just time consuming.

  2. No polish them, will look way better, google CRF450XINOZ images & you will see some CRF hubs I polished

  3. Powder coat them !! The spring looks pretty awesome, so maybe do the same to get a bit of a theme going ?

  4. I think they look really good just like that man! Maybe clear coat but idk man that is just too factory to paint over!

  5. Either the chrome powder with the red on top like you did the spring OR have the hubs cerakoted bronze like the Works bike come. Either would compliment nicely with all the detail you're putting in.

  6. Magnifique ! Excellent boulot !πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘ŒπŸ˜‰πŸ˜! Pour l entretien tu vas pleurer !!! πŸ‘πŸ‘ŒπŸ˜‰πŸ˜πŸ˜ŽπŸ’¨πŸ’¨πŸ’¨

  7. I expect every one of your videos. I'm so tough to teach you and I'll be happy when the bike is complete thanks to cameron πŸ™‚

  8. Leave 'em bare blasted, or CLEAR powder-coat! The CLASSIC look. When I think of a good looking MX-er, I recall the green 1970 SL100 which I had back in the '90s – bought it in '89 for something like $125 – it was my very first bike. Got a '69 CB100 "for parts" with it, and built a really cool little street digger using both rear rims laced to alternate hubs – using all off-the-shelf parts including spoke-sets. ANYWAY yeah, the best look on a MODERN bike is to emulate the CLASSICS!

  9. I have white powder coated hubs and they are soooo much easier to keep clean and looking new! But be sure to sand blast them before powder coating them, the powder coat will flake off later on if you don’t!

  10. Next time you do this, use paraffin wax(candle wax) it doesn’t load up as bad. Also, take the arbor to and Machinist friend, or myself, and turn the end down to .125” (1/8”) so it fits a dremal sander. It will save you tons of time and achive a better finish. 3M makes scotch bright polish balls too. Use MSC catalog online. Hope this helps, Dean

  11. I love what you're doing to this CR but personally, I could care less about all of these nice bikes. Most of the dudes on here (Including myself) should spend all of the time riding and getting better vs making your dirt bike look pretty. Personally, I could care less about a sexy bike.Does it run well and have parts that work? That's more important to the average rider IMO.

  12. Hey Cameron, love all the work you doing on the cr 250. Why don't you put a fine coarse scotch brite wheel on one end of the bench grinder and a coarse wheel on the other end instead of changing them out all the time?

  13. I've heard that it's bad to powder coat cast surfaces due to the prolonged exposure to the heat of the oven, is there any truth to that?

  14. I used cerakote on my hubs, leaving the casting marks, and it was an excellent finish. Slight metallic look. With the effort you have done, i think it would look great as they are.

  15. Hey man. You have helped me before. I cleaned my carb on my 05 kx250f and now i cant get the cable that goes from the throttle to the carb adjusted right. Ive messed with the idle now and the bike wont run at all now I think its how i have the cable adjusted. Any tips?

  16. Have you got a brother? I think I just stumbled onto his channel and he looks like a gym monkey version of you dude πŸ˜‚

  17. Powder coat them black or just leave them just my opinion tho you do you, I also just rebuilt my 03 cr 250 one of my favorite bikes 🀘

  18. Hey man awesome video. Your the reason i got motivated to start the build on my Cr85. Keep the content up man your beginning to be a successful youtuber. I think you should go with Powder coating them red depending on weather your powder coating your rims as well but if not keep them shiny.

  19. thats the difference with American manufacturing and things made in Asia.. Americans usually have more attention to detail.

  20. If the sand paper is directional than when you flip them around why not put the drill in reverse?

  21. i put mine on lathe and cut them , and look machined polished have,nt broke one yet ,been doing it for years

  22. You could make a sleeve tool to slip on the drill to rotate it opposite the grinding direction to reduce chances of flattening edges.

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