Summer Suit Guide – Suits For Hot Weather – Fabrics, Construction & Accessories

Summer Suit Guide – Suits For Hot Weather – Fabrics, Construction & Accessories


Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! Today’s video is all about summer suits. We’ll discuss the details, the fabrics, the
accessories you can wear with them, the construction methods, and everything you need to know to
stay cool in a suit when it’s hot outside. Have you ever wondered how some people can
wear a suit when it’s stifling hot outside? Well, not all suits are created equal and
some have a lot more airflow and a lot cooler than others. Why is that? You may wonder. Actually, there are a number of factors. Most importantly, there’s the fabric and the
interlining. If you have a jacket with a glued interlining,
it will insulate you much more, it will not breathe and as a consequence, you will overheat
much more quickly. Also, the kind of material, the weave, as
well as the weight, all have an impact on how cool or warm it feels. So first up, let’s talk about specific summer
fabrics that you can look for when opting for a summer suit or suit for really hot climates. First, let’s talk about the seersucker. It’s an all-time American classic and it usually
comes in a stripe of white and blue. It’s a very fine stripe and it’s very popular
in the southern United States and it’s made from a twisted yarn. It’s a very fine highly twisted cotton yarn
that creates a puckering effect in the cloth. To learn more about the intricacies of this
material, I suggest you check out our in-depth seersucker guide on our website here. In a nutshell, that crinkle effect is achieved
by tightening certain warped yarns more than others. The crinkle is permanent and can’t be ironed
out but as a consequence, it doesn’t wrinkle otherwise, so it’s very wrinkle resistant
which makes it also a great travel suit, it’s perfect for garden parties, summer weddings
or just hot days when you’re in the southern US. I really enjoy the classic blue and white
seersucker because you can combine it very easily; you can just have the seersucker pants
combined with a blazer or just the seersucker jacket combined with different pants. It enhances your wardrobe, it’s a very lightweight
material. I also like seersuckers in other colors such
as a white and beige stripe which is nice for summers because it’s a very light color
so it reflects the sunlight and doesn’t absorb it. If you’re looking for more of a business suit,
you can also get seersucker that is basically solid Navy which is a very nice alternative. Unfortunately, it’s something you usually
have to get custom-made because it’s often not readily available off the rack unless
maybe you find it at places like Polo Ralph Lauren or other who specialize in summer suits. Even when you don’t wear a suit, you can wear
your seersuckers with a polo shirt or just a dress shirt and it’s overall a very versatile
summer staple. So if you haven’t checked out the guide already
please do so here. The second summer fabric I recommend is a
fresco. It’s a term coined by Minnis which is a British
Weaver and they have them in their lineup. They have many different colors typically
summer colors in lighter weights and heavier weights. Here, you can see me wearing a green suit,
it’s a medium weight, I’d say about 10 to 12 ounces, and it is a mottled fabric, meaning
the color is not just a solid green but it contains many different tones of green and
because of that, it’s easy to combine with things and it’s just a very harmonious look
that works well with summer. At first, it may seem contradictory that wool
can be an ideal fabric for summer but in fact, if the weave is right and with a fresco, you
get a weave that’s also a higher twisted yarn which means it doesn’t wrinkle very easily. Wool doesn’t wrinkle easily to begin with
but it also has a very open weave, because of that, you usually find it in strong colors,
not just solids but mottled colors because they help camouflage the fact that it’s a
very open weave. The more open the weave, the more likely you
are going to feel any kind of breeze and airflow. In fact, when I wear this suit and it gets
slightly too cold, it gets chilly very quickly because I can feel it in my pants, and my
chest, my back, and on my arms. When you hold it against a light source, you
can clearly see through it and you can see the shadow through it and because of that,
it’s very breathable. Because it’s a twisted worsted yarn, it’s
not a soft fabric, it doesn’t have a cashmere-like feel and at first, if you touch it in a cloth
book, you may be turned off by the cloth but don’t be fooled! This is a wonderful fabric for summer suits. Traditionally, fresco fabrics were heavier
more in a 14 to 15 ounce range and the advantage was that they really hung nicely and draped
beautifully. Today, the Huddersfield Weaver Minnis also
offers much lighter options all the way down to eight ounces which are not just lightweight
but also open weave which makes for an ultimate summer suit. Personally, I own a bunch of fresco suits. I have this green one, I have a kind of petrol
one, and I also have a light gray one. Of course, it also comes in shades of navy,
blue, charcoal, and anything else under the sun and it’s mostly a solid although sometimes,
you can also find patterns. For more information, check out the Minnis
fresco book. The third popular material for summer suits
is linen. It is derived from the flax plant and it can
be made stiffer or softer. Typically, Irish linen is a little more stiff
whereas Italian linen is rather soft. It naturally has a very long staple that is
much longer than cotton rather natural fibers and because of that, it’s very resistant to
abrasion. It also has extremely heavier wrinkles, and
they create a very sophisticated unique look. They wrinkle differently than cotton does
but I find that it looks very elegant and classy especially in a summer suit. Let’s say probably the tobacco brown linen
summer suit is a favorite when by many elegant men around the world. It naturally has a fresh and cool feel and
sometimes the weave can be very tight and when it’s heavy, it can be actually quite
insulating. It looks very summery but you can still feel
quite warm. Because of that, I currently do not have a
linen suit in my lineup, maybe I’ll add one in the future but at present, I don’t have
one. The fourth material often used for summer
suits is cotton. Most of the time, it comes in lighter colors
for summer such as khaki. Unfortunately, it often comes in very tight
weaves just as twill or gabardine which doesn’t make it very breathable. It also wrinkles very easily but unlike linen,
it just looks non-ironed whereas linen wrinkles look sophisticated. Because of that, I think cotton alone is best
blended with linen, maybe silk, because that way, it has different properties, it doesn’t
wrinkle as cheaply, it looks better, and most importantly, you can have a more open weave
which is more advantageous to staying cool in the summer The fifth summer suit option you have is a
very lightweight worsted fabric called tropical. The tropical is softer than a fresco but the
weave is not as open. At the same time, it’s very lightweight and
it’s specifically designed for warm weather. Sometimes you can also find it with the addition
of mohair which is a little crisper, it adds more wrinkle resistance, it also adds a tiny
bit of shine but at the same time, it feels cooler when you wear it. Of all the terms mentioned here, Off the rack
suit manufacturers are most likely to go with a lightweight worsted wool because it’s widely
available, it’s relatively inexpensive, and it is mass-market approved. So choosing the right material for a summer
suit is only one part of the equation. You always want to choose the right style
and the right color. Because it’s the summer and everything is
lighter, you can have brighter colors and get away with a green suit that otherwise
you couldn’t wear in the winter. If you want a shade of navy or gray intentionally
opt for something lighter in color which underlines the summery character. Alternatively, you can opt for beiges,
khakis, browns, these are all ideal summer colors. Of course, you can also go with patterns but
instead of a Glen check in black and white, you maybe go with something in gray and white
which just makes everything more lively and summery. If you want the ultimate summer suit, go with
a single-breasted silhouette never double breasted because the dual layers of fabrics
will make you wear much warmer. Stylistically, some people prefer patch pockets
because they’re more casual but keep in mind, it’s an extra layer of fabric which is why
having jetted or flap pockets is just fine. On the inside of your suit, you can go with
a half-lined jacket which means the back is not lined at all thus allowing more air to
flow through and reach your skin. You also want to stay clear of a glued canvas
and instead, go with a sewn interlining. To better understand the intricacies and differences,
please check out this video here where I explain all the differences and why the sewn interlining
or canvas is so much better than the glued one. When I traveled to Naples where it gets quite
hot, I saw tailors creating suit jackets and pants that were completely unlined. Now while that maximizes the airflow especially
on your shirt sleeve, it will likely catch and the line won’t be as smooth as if you
keep your sleeves lined, maybe the shoulder, you just leave the back unlined. Now, of course, the suit is only one part
of your summer outfit. Ideally, you pair it with a very open weave
or a very lightweight cotton shirt. That way, you don’t overheat so quickly. Some people have issues with sweat stains
on their suit and in that case, you can wear an undershirt underneath your shirt which
doesn’t make you cooler but it absorbs the sweat and keeps you from embarrassing moments,
however, if you want to stay cool, skip the undershirt. Also, make sure you have button cuffs also
known as barrel cuffs and I personally like to wear them unbuttoned because having an
extra airflow under my wrists makes me feel cooler. Because you’re wearing a suit, the overall
outfit is much better with some form of neckwear but instead of wearing a regular necktie that
covers the middle part of your torso, a bow tie wears a lot cooler because it just covers
your neck. If you want to go with a tie, maybe invest
in a lightweight knit tie which has a very open knit and therefore, a better airflow. In terms of shoes, you can underline the summery
character and either get spectators, maybe some perforated shoes that allow more air
flow, or something with woven leather that I’m wearing here right now. Even if you decide not to go with any form
of neckwear, I always suggest to have a pocket square because it immediately upgrades the
overall appearance of your suit. Because it’s summer, it’s also fun to add
a boutonniere lapel flower to your outfit and that could be something like a cornflower,
maybe a poppy, or anything else that you find on the side of the road. The problem is in the summer, those flowers
wilt extremely quickly in your lapel and just look bad. Because of that, I designed my own boutonnieres
that stay fresh all the time and look like the real deal. you can check out our full selection in our
shop here. Another great all-time summer accessory is
the Panama hat and you can learn more about it in our Panama hat guide here. When it comes to socks, a gentleman always
has over the calf socks, however, if that’s too hot for you, you can also try to go with
no-show socks. The problem with most of them is that over
the course of the day, they come off your feet and if you have a leather-lined
shoes, it becomes rather uncomfortable. Either go with over the calf socks that stay
up and make your feet feel comfortable or opt for no-show socks that don’t come off
your feet. At the end of the day, a good summer suit
will only wear ever so slightly hotter than a polo shirt or a t-shirt but it’s a lot more
stylish and elegant. You just have to choose the right one, make
sure they have the right fabric with the proper interlining in a single-breasted silhouette
and you’ll be on your way. if you enjoyed this video make sure to check
out our other guides about summer fabrics and things you can wear in the summer such
as summer accessories seersuckers madras and other things that help you to stay cool in
summer. if you subscribe to our channel, stuff like
this comes right to your inbox and in today’s video I’m wearing a typical summer suit it
has this nice mottled green color in a fresco was custom made by a A Caraceni I picked it
up years ago for under $100 and I’m still wearing it obviously it is a vintage garment
but because of the classic details the lapel width and everything you can’t really date
it it’s very unusual color for suit usually you only see it as sport coats and because
of that I really like it because it makes my outfit unique it’s a wonderful suit for
cocktail parties or anything where you don’t require extremely formal clothing when it’s
hot outside I am combining it with a very lightweight shirt from Siniscalchi it’s so
thin that sometimes my chest hair even pokes through but it’s that lightweight fabric that
makes me feel cooler when it’s hot outside of course I also skipped the cufflinks and
go with a barrel cuffs that I often wear unbuttoned my socks are green and brown shadow stripe
ones from Fort Belvedere that pick up the green color and tie together my cognac Brown
woven leather wing tip shoes which is beautiful for the summer because they provide a lot
of contrast they have a warm tone as well as the casual woven texture the bow tie is
a summery shantung silk with a green stripe that ties your outfit together because it
has green tones as well as brown tones my pocket square is silk printed in England with
a blue and brown Paisley and my boutonniere is a very pastelly light blue corn flower
which is also from Fort Belvedere and you could find it in our shop here

99 Replies to “Summer Suit Guide – Suits For Hot Weather – Fabrics, Construction & Accessories”

  1. I will need this when I will grow up, because I will work at an IT company.
    I am very grateful to you Raphael.

  2. no matter how much sun there will be, no matter how hot the temperature will be, I shall never remove my bowler hat (semi-cit)
    edit:
    tecnically the term Fresco is the italian word for "fresh" and it was used then for the suit

  3. Thanks for making this video!!
    I find it very helpful, because I live in India and the weather here can get really hot!
    Your advice really helped!! 😀

  4. Great tips I didn't know this was seasonal, this is great too know I can share this with the guys, the gentlemens gazette does it yet again. Thanks👌

  5. I was watching all these videos about dressing well in summer and preparing accordingly. However, I live in Mostar and when temperatures reach 40+ degrees celsius on Mediterranean soil and rock all advices are thrown away in favor of wife beater tank top, shorts and flip flops hahah.

  6. Great timing- was just thinking about summer wardrobe necessities… Thank you!

    Have other season specific videos been made? Winter, fall, spring suit guides?

  7. Worn a linen suit, khaki in color to perform ( I'm ordained) a wedding this past weekend near Houston, late afternoon, was still 90F and I almost died.( The linen did not breathe as expected) I shorted the ceremony and to my surprise everyone was thrilled, they were burning up from the heat. ( It was in the outdoors)

  8. Some of the most common products that use wetlaying non-woven technology include; Tea bag paper, Face cloths, Shingling and Synthetic fibre paper. Some other common types of non-wovens include: Composite, Meltblown, Carded/Carding, Needle punch, Thermal bonded, Chemical bonded and Nanotechnology.

  9. Mr. Raphael if u are to suggest only one fabric for Scorching hot summer like here 45'c/113'F which one would it be?

  10. I always wondered who the tailor of your green Fresco was. Now that I know, I also know why it looks so good (maybe my overall favorite suit of yours). I have to save up some money, I guess.

    I also own a vintage fresco jacket by Brioni and even though the color is navy, it's the coolest garment I own.

  11. Another great presentation. The only thing which disappoints is no mention of hopsack.

    By the way, still have not found a resource to show the difference between fresco and hopsack (trying to identify the weave of a vintage fabric). Maybe a topic on identifying weaves to go along with the vintage finds video?

  12. I love a nice summer suit and the air breezing through it. I moved to the Southern US from the UK and it the only way I don't melt for over half a year.

  13. Today I went to H&M and saw there a linen jacket. But when I decided to inspect it, it turned out that it has a lining, even if on the outside it is 100% linen. I began to wonder: who would like to buy it ? But in only shows that fast fashion stores are not appropriate for dapper gentlemen, even in terms of "basics".

  14. Very helpful video! I have two summer suits made by Ralph Lauren, in two colors navy and light grey. The material is an open weave wool and I must admit that I never sweat when I am wearing them! Again thank you for giving me other options for a summer attire!

  15. Awesome, just simply awesome. So informative. Man, I'm just blown away. SWEN, you really, really, really know how to mix and match these summer combinations! Thank you. NOW I know how to pick out a good summer suit.

  16. Little trick (used by people on tv): to absorb massive sweat during a short period of time (presentation, conference, etc) instead of a t-shirt (which is visible and super unelegant), you can use…. sanitary napkins taped inside the shirt under your arms. There are so many sizes and thinness available that you will certainly find a model fitting your body and needs.

  17. Topic for future video, "To Flower in Lapel or NOT To Flower In Lapel". Is it okay to wear a flower in the lapel on regular, daily occasions or is that to much of an affectation? I'm sure it should be a small flower, that's all I'm sure of.

  18. Thank you, Raphael! I’m going to check out seersucker. It’s just about too hot for me to wear my double-breasted wool suit. Fresco looks great, too!

  19. Can you do a video about velvet tuxedo's, maybe about how to wear a black velvet tuxedo with velvet pants & a vest?

  20. It's not too bad wearing lighter weights suits in the summer when it's not humid but once rain season hits, it's near impossible to wear a jacket. Perhaps a shorter video on looks without a jacket please Sven? Thanks 🙂

  21. Ironically you mention Minnis of Huddersfield. I'm looking for a summer suit for my stepdaughter's wedding in Huddersfield.

  22. Thanks, I live in a place where we easily get 45ºC in the summer and it's really hard to go out in style when you have such climate conditions.
    I stay with shirts mostly, but will give a try to one of these, the Tropical probably, loved that one.

  23. Wow, nothing screams "I just paid the power bill" like cranking the studio lights up to X-RAY. Every time I see a seersucker suit, I look for a river boat and a banjo.

  24. I don’t know if this is something you’ve done before but could you make a video for college interview outfits but specifically for when it’s hot out because I have one this month and one in July

  25. Quick question, wouldn't it be better (especially if you live in the Southern US) to use Linen as a Spring fabric?

  26. I love all the summer suits you have shown. I am bored watching Spanish men wearing the whole year always with dark blue suits 👏👏👏

  27. I had a vintage Harris tweed jacket that had an half lining and used it almost every day but I sold it so I can get more money for my vintage style black velvet with light blue lining and beautiful buttons and it’s a replica of the frock coat the 12th doctor wore in series 10 in doctor who

  28. Thank god I need this! I’ve been wearing suits for a while, yet still have no idea how to dress during the summer!

  29. Awesome video.. however, i still doubt this fabrics would compensate for tropical countries' temperature. It's simply inhuman having to wear suits in places like Brazil.

  30. Great video. I overheat easily (heart issues) so I forgo suits/jackets/ties completely unless the event calls for it. Instead I stick to a slim fit polo, light colored dres slacks, and loafers. Over the calf socks only please.

  31. I have a sears travelknit suit. It is polyester but the weave is loose so the air enters easily. I can wear it up to 28 c

  32. Fantastic video and very useful. You manage to put together some very impressive looks. I must commend you on your good taste Sir.
    Cheers 🥂

  33. Guys I have a question that has nothing to do with the video, but what do you think about crocodile/caiman/alligator belts? They no doubt look good but do they make you uncomfortable because you feel like they are show off or because the animals killed are more rare than cows? Do you think it’s a good idea to wear such a belt? I’m interested in public opinion of them.

  34. I love your videos, but I just want to say that your studio lighting is super harsh.

    It's a shame because your channel is about style, so seeing it properly in a flattering way is important.

    I'd cut it with some diffusion or bounce it off another surface with a reflector.

  35. Hi GG, lovely video as always however, could you do a "Suit undergarment" guide please ?

    Currently I wear : runners seamless anti-heat/ transpiration, gear underneath my suits but can this be considdered as "Dressing well" ?

  36. I live in the South and it gets HOT, let me tell you. I’ve grown accustomed to wearing polo shirts and light colored (white cream ) slacks. To be honest the main reason you won’t see me in a T-shirt is primarily the pocket! Also I like the fabric even if it is somewhat heavier because I sweat in the heat. Can’t get around it. The heavier cloth doesn’t stick to the skin and it isn’t as obvious that you are sweating. A hankerchief in the summer is also useful. No baseball caps for me either. Don’t like the feel of them plus everybody wears them down here. I like standing out without looking like a complete D-Bag and having just a little care in how I dress makes all the difference. Also, why is it nobody takes off their hats while inside anymore? Is it a conscious choice?

  37. I would call the colour of your suit “ celery”. I passed on one in a chic shop in Hollywood- Fred Seagal. Then I found one in my father’s closet from the 40s. Shoulda kept it. He wore hats.

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