The Costumes of Petyr Baelish Season 1-6 + (Game of Thrones #14)

The Costumes of Petyr Baelish Season 1-6 + (Game of Thrones #14)

Welcome back to another episode of
Costumes Cinematographico. By popular demand I’m going to be
looking at the costumes of Game of Thrones resident weasel and scoundrel,
Lord Petyr Baelish, otherwise known as Littlefinger. Careful for spoilers for
all six seasons of the HBO series Game of Thrones plus a bit from what we’ve
seen so far in season seven. Lord Petyr Baelish is Lord Paramount of the Vale,
Lord of Harrenhal and Head of House Baelish of which he is the only living
member. Littlefinger is betrayed by Irish theatre and film actor Aidan Gillen. The
sigil for House Baelish is a black mockingbird on a yellow field. It’s hard
to believe the costume designer Michelle Clapton has only ten looks in six season
so far for Petyr Baelish. The cut of his costumes is so perfect for the actor
Aidan Gillen who has a naturally lanky physique. In the episode Lord Snow from
season 1, Petyr Baelish wears a chocolate brown brocade coat with a pleated surcoat or tabard on top. Michelle Clapton appropriates from a
variety of historical and cultural sources and Littlefinger’s costumes are
no exception. His full-length coat it’s just just above his ankles so that you
can see his boots. And as for the inspiration of the coat, here are just a
few possible sources. While I thought that the medieval version of Petyr’s coat
might be the cote, it doesn’t exactly nail the silhouette. The cote is a 13th
century garment for both men and women with a loose bodice that can be bloused
over the belt and with dolman sleeves. Here is an example of the cote on both
the man and the woman seen in this 13th century sandstone statue. The 14th
century cotehardie was a more fitted garment but it was much shorter than the
cote and the belt was worn on the hips. Here is an example of the cotehardie as
seen in the foreground of this painting. A more correct silhouette that I found
and it’s actually based upon one of my viewers suggestions is that of the Roman
or French cassock which is a liturgical garment worn
by Catholic priests. And like little fingers coat the cassock is an
ankle-length garment with a fitted torso and sleeves and a centered front opening
with the mandarin collar. Like the modern French cassock pictured on the
right, the skirt of Petyr’s coat has some flair. Littlefinger, however, has no
buttons on any of his costumes and his fasteners for the most part or hidden
the lack of fasteners is an intentional design choice by the show runners and
Michelle Clapton. While not entirely accurate the silhouette is also in
keeping with the Russian Cossack uniforms from World War I. Here is
another garment style that Littlefinger’s coat might have drawn from.
Pictured here is a uniform of the First Regiment of the Sikh irregular cavalry
from 1857 that’s on display at the National Army Museum in London. British
officers of the irregular cavalry wear loose-fitting indian dress rather than
the European style uniforms of the regular cavalry. The purple kurta on the
right was the foundation garment of this beautifully embroidered uniform. In the
19th century, the blending of the Kurta shirt and the Victorian frock coat led
to what is now known as the sherwani, which is a long coat for men worn for
formal events like weddings. The coat may be more accurately called the Achkan
sherwani when the length of the coat falls below the knees. The picture on the
left also features a stole which is a long Indian scarf draped over the
shoulder like the one that Petyr wears in season 2. The surcote style vest is
full length in the front with a boat neck collar at the back, seen in the episode
You Win or You Die. The surcote is an over garment worn in the Middle Ages.
Here’s an example in Allegory of April / Triumph of Venus detail by Italian
Renaissance painter Francesco del Cossa from 1476 and 1484. The surcote would often be belted either around the waist of the garment or only partially to allow a keep to hang at the back.
The gorgeous brocade of the coat has this gorgeous tone-on-tone pattern as
seen in the close-up on the right. In this close-up you can see the deep
pleats of the surcote using the gold dotted stripe of the fabric to edge each
pleat. The waist is seamed to create additional shaping of a garment. In this
close-up you can see the chain belt which Littlefinger uses to hold his
master of coin purse and his dagger and what looks kind of like a Chatelaine of
sorts. Of course no Littlefinger costume would be complete without his silver
mockingbird pin. In the season 1 episode the Wolf and the Lion, Littlefinger
ditches the surcote. We get a peek at this little silver hanging piece here.
The pattern is lined up nicely at the front of his jacket;
it takes more fabric and labor to do this type of costume construction but it
shows the level of quality in the costumes. In the episode, Lord Snow,
Littlefinger wears another tunic under the surcote made from gold and brown
shantung. It’s cut exactly the same way as his other brocade coat. In this
close-up of his coat during the tourney of the hand you can see that the fabric
has lots of natural slubs, a characteristic we see in shantung or
dupioni silk fabric. In this manspreading shot, you can see little fingers trousers
and short suede boots with crossover straps and I’ve noticed that Michele
Clopton likes to use a style of boots on both the men and the women including
Dany. We also get a peek at his steel silk under gown. He has his coat open
here which gives us a better idea of his undergown and you can see the placket
of the coat. In a rare scene, Littlefinger wears just the under gown where on his
own turf he’s able to let his guard down just a little.
This paper silk down is akin to a Japanese undergarment that you would
wear under a kimono. The cut is asymmetrical as determined by the
fashions of the court of King’s Landing. Cersei wears a similar sleeveless version
in the privacy of her bedchamber. In this onset image from season 7, you can see
the Chinese knot button closures made from the same silk as the undergarment.
As a side note, it appears that the hair department had been dyeing the top of
actor Aidan Gillen’s hair black creating a stronger contrast with his silvery gray
sides. Kind of reminds me of spider-man’s boss J Jonah Jameson. In season 2
episode 1, the North Remembers, Michelle Clapton denotes a change in Littlefinger, saying, “It’s also interesting to look at Littlefinger’s journey. He started off
very much as the courtier. He was always very organized with his little chain in
his notebook and then suddenly he actually stopped wearing the mantle.” Here
is a closer shot of the geometric motif on the coat. Michele Clapton adds, “He had
just little glimpses of turquoise beneath his costume and the slit was cut
slightly higher. Slowly you realize he ran brothels. His costumes just slowly
becoming a little richer.” In this image from the season 2 episode, the
Night Lands, we get a look at Littlefinger’s turquoise undergarment. In the
episode the Old Gods in the New. Littlefinger wears the same coat except with a burgundy sash similar to the Indian stole that’s fastened at the shoulder
with his Mockingbird brooch. On the left is another brown and bronze brocade coat
although it’s a close likeness to his other one. Here is a close-up of the belt
detail, another thing I noticed is that his tunic sleeves always hang much lower
than his jacket cuffs, slightly covering his hands. I’m sure there is some subtext
to this. His belt looks like it might be made by the same metal Smith as Shaye
and Cersei’s belts. One thing to note is that LIttlefinger’s collar is not a
perfectly round stand-up Mandarin style. All of them come to a bit of a point at
the shoulder – there is also a little dip in the collar at the center back seam.
In season 2 episode 1, Littlefinger tries to influence Sansa in the same look. You
can see his pouch hanging at the side, a perfect adornment for his costume since
at this point he was the Master of Coin on the Small Council. He wears the same
coat again in the Eyrie in the season 4 episode Mockingbird. In the episode
Kissed by FIre, Petyr wears another coat and it’s hard
to tell but this brocade is made up of a small oval pattern. This is the only coat
that Petyr wears with any fasteners. These brass laser-cut fasteners are seen
on many of the noble men in King’s Landing,
including King Robert and Joffrey Baratheon. Littlefinger wears these
identical brass clasps although this set are from King Robert’s Hand of the Tourney
jerkin. In the throne room, Petyr has words with Varys in the season 3 episode
The Climb. This coat is fantastic! The fabric is a purple background with a
slightly raised gold woodgrain motif on top while. I’m not positive, I think that
the pattern was made using gold metallic ink in a silk screening technique after
the coat was made because the irregular pattern matches perfectly at the seams.
If you want to create this coat for cosplay, while not wood grain, I found
this awesome Philip Lim great metallic gold abstract
silk brocade jacquard at Mood Fabric in New York, but I’ve also seen it on Amazon,
so I’ll leave a link in the description below. Here is yet another look from the
season 4 episode the Mountain and the Viper. This coat is made from a brocade
that is much lighter color than we’re used to seeing him in in keeping with
the costume palette of the Vale. Here’s a close-up of the costume so
you get a better idea of the fabric. It’s hard to tell, but there is a tracing of a
heart and in a matching embroidery floss following the outline of the brocade
pattern. Anyone want to theorize as to the meaning? In the episode the Wars to
Come, Littlefinger orders a matching houppelande for Sansa which is a medieval equivalent to his in her towels. In this Flemish painting from 1470 we
see men dressed in a houppelande. A houppelande is a surcote as it is intended as an exterior garment. The cote on the left is lined in fur just like Petyr and
Sansa’s. Here’s another style of surcote as seen in the painting Justice of Emperor [Otto] III by Dieric Bouts from the Museum of Fine Arts in Belgium from
1471 to 1475. We first see Petyr wearing the Houppelande upon his arrival to the
Vale in the season 5 episode, the first of his Name. Of his cloak, Michelle Clapton
says, “He just becomes more opulent it’s his look but it just gets bigger and
grander and he carries himself. Actually, his cloak is incredibly heavy and it’s
sort of gives him this bearing.” The houppelande is the same length as his
undercoat, just skimming his ankles. When the cape sleeves of Littlefinger’s
houppelande fall away in the episode the Wars to Come, you can see his coat
underneath as well. We get a peek at the silk undergarment, this time in gold. I
mentioned this in another video, that while Sansa and Petyr’s houppelandes are
made from different fabrics, they have the same gorgeous gold brocade lining.
it’s actually the same fabric used to make Littlefinger’s season 4 coat.
Here’s a close-up of the black fur trim looking perhaps like rabbit or maybe
black sable. Incidentally, sable, squirrel and ermine furs were popular choices for
wealthy Europeans during the 13th and 14th centuries. Here’s a close-up shot of
the tweed fabric. Petyr wears the cloak again in season 7, in this yet unaired
episode, I think it might be the Queen’s Justice. In season 5 episode 6, upon
Petyr’s return to King’s Landing, he wears this stunning purple and gold woven silk
brocade coat. In this scene in Battle of the Bastards, we see that Petyr wears this coat again underneath his houppelande. Finally, here is Petyr’s new looks for the season 7 debut. I covered this in my top 10 countdown of the most
compelling costume in the episode 1 of season 7. I’ll leave
a link in the description below so that you can check it out. I have hopes for a
particular look for Petyr but I won’t say anything because it might be a bit
spoilery, so we’ll just have to wait and see what happens in the next season. That’s it for this episode. I hope you enjoyed it and if you did please like
the video and share it with your friends! I’m going to be back on Monday with
another Game of Thrones recap video so don’t forget to subscribe
so you don’t miss anything and if you’re on Twitter please find me there I’ll
leave a link in the description below. We always have lots to talk about in
between episodes. So thank you so much again for watching!

39 Replies to “The Costumes of Petyr Baelish Season 1-6 + (Game of Thrones #14)”

  1. I'm glad you're moving to the men's costumes. So far, it was only Joffrey, so I'm glad you're doing Peter Baylish's.

  2. Actually the sigil of House Baelish is the head of the Titan of Braavos as that is where his family hails from. Little finger uses the Mockingbird as his PERSONAL sigil. I adore your videos, BTW!

  3. I love how you reference similar fabrics for cosplay 🙂 If I was a man I would definitely cosplay Littlefinger. He is such an interesting character and the costumes are incredible!

  4. I'm waiting in the notifications for your uploads. Interesting video as always 😀 you put sooo much effort in your content 💞can you do tyrion and maybe varys too?

  5. loving the game of thrones content( and all of your content to be perfectly honest!)! I was wondering if you've considered looking at the costumes of mirror, mirror? (the Julia Roberts and Lily Collins snow white adaptation movie) I think they are absolutely beautiful and I would love to hear your expert opinion on them!

  6. Petyr Baelish may be the most backstabber character, but he's also one of the best dressed man in Westeros. BTW Are you going to make a video about Lady Olenna? The queen of thorns and comeback

  7. I really like the men's costumes the best. More substantial and richer even in the warmer climates of King's Landings and Dorne. The exception are the women's costumes at Winterfell and the snowy areas since they're dressing warmer. Again, it's hard to tell the detail until you show them closeup. His clothes are wonderful. Wonder if he'd like to wear his wardrobe from the show all the time!

  8. LOVE THEM! Thank you for putting the quotes on there 🙂 Was super helpful like when Michelle says "actually" – that could have sounded like you without the quote on screen but it was super clear! Thank youuuuuu 🙂 awesome work!

  9. i look online and on the subtitles but can't find the name for the coat or jackets that he uses. On the subtiles it says is hoople on , on another part is subtiles as whopalong so im lost was what the name of the garment help!!, in minute 10:50 she says "little finger orders a matching **hoople on*** (that is the word that i want to know how to speel it correctly) for sansa"

  10. unrelated, but an interview with Michele Clapton about dressing the Starks just popped up on my newsfeed. Can't wait for your episode 4 video and other character based videos!

  11. Little Finger's silhouette reminds me of a modern take on something Jafar from Aladdin would wear…a Grand Vizier (which Petyr certainly would identify with) as it were.

  12. Littlefinger's cloths really remind me of Polish/Turkish robes worn by noblemen, but without huge sashes and fancy sleeves. I wonder why they decided to dress him that way, he looks so foreign among Westerosi nobles…

    Turkish nobility:

    Polish noble, 18th century painting:

    Polish kontusz (cloak) with żupan (long shirt, probably related somehow with middle eastern jubba) underneath, 18th century:

    Kontusz, also 18th century:

    Żupan from 17th century:–commonwealth-anonymous.jpg

  13. I would love if you did a costume video on Littlefinger's rival, Varys! His costumes always intrigued me.. they are very Asian/Indian inspired. I know he is from essos (lys) to be exact, so his costumes are meant to look more foreign than those of people in westeros

  14. I like his style. His attire is subdued, yet elegant and sophisticated and always has a bit of an own spin.
    I like the rather simple cut, the elaborate patterns that look monochromatic at a distance and the brighter colours and fancier patterns hidden under his outer garnment.

  15. Bealish' outfits are the best. I heard he has them custom made in an obscure boutique off the street of Sisters. I think it's called Thom Vorde.

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