The Costumes of Westeros Part IV (House Baratheon, House Tyrell, House Martell) Game of Thones #13

The Costumes of Westeros Part IV (House Baratheon, House Tyrell, House Martell) Game of Thones #13


Welcome to another episode of Costume
Cinematographico. In the fourth and final episode on this series of the
costumes of Westeros I continue my exploration of the continent of Westeros
from the world of Game of Thrones from the HBO series by the same name. If you
haven’t seen episodes 1 through 3 from my series on Westeros, I’ll leave a link
in the description below although you can watch it out of order. There will
be spoilers for everything that’s happened so far in the show but I’ll
also be showing some images from the Game of Thrones Season 7 teasers and
trailers so just so you know you have been warned. Dragonstone is the ancestral
seat of House Targaryen and it was a stronghold and currently extinct cadet
branch of house Baratheon. While I was looking through some of the reddit
discussions and that’s where I get some of my best information actually many of
the armor aficionados on there have stated that Stannis Baratheon
armor is the best in the series so Michelle Clapton says of this, “I don’t
think that Stannis is a sort of Joffrey. He’s not trying to show that he’s King.
He just believes he is. this is His look and what it will always be.” Stannis
wears is the newly-formed House Baratheon of Dragonstone sigil which is
a crowned black stag enclosed within the fiery red heart of the Lord of Light.
That’s riveted on his breastplate. He wears a full coat of mail over his
leather gambeson and that’s covered with purpose in soft areas with metal plate.
His gorget and breastplate protect the neck and chest and the waist plates
protect his vital organs while the plates on his skirt work in the same way
as faulds do in plate armor to protect the legs and hips. His men including Davos
wear variations of Stannis’ uniform and they carry kite shields and banners
with the house sigil. While some of the plates are actually linked into the mail,
the chest piece is an add-on piece with the waist plates fastened to
the breastplate with leather straps. Here’s Stannis with Selyse just standing
behind him. He wears a leather gambeson with what looks like a leather vest top
although after I was looking at it a bit closer I think it’s actually one piece
and it’s got this really amazing crunchy leathery texture to it. I especially
loved his cape with the leather clasps at the shoulder and it looks like a sort of
like a drawn Roman shade if you know what I mean. His belt if you look
closely has a tiny Baratheon stag detail on it.
Stannis’ men all wear this particular style of this visored helmet with cheek
guards it looks similar to this German Burgonet seen on the left and the one
on the right is a German Burgonet from about 1570. George RR Martin loves
female characters with postpartum psychosis, I’ve detected and we can look
no further than Selyse Baratheon to rival Lysa Arryn as one of the nuttiest moms.
So her clothes they look nothing special on camera, her hair being one of the most
unflattering styles in this series, I think. I actually found it surprising
that a woman of her station would dress so unfine but upon closer inspection her
clothes are actually quite beautiful. Her coat here is wool or a low pile fur and
it’s lined and bound in leather and the gown underneath appears to be velvet I
think with a gore in the front just below the waist with a short rabbit
muffler or a little like a little short scarf at the neck. And the best part of
course is this lovely silvery chain belt with the stag in the center to anchor it.
I can’t tell what the links are made from but possibly I thought they might
be stag skulls. Hard to know since Clapton has been mum on the issue and
this is the same outfit except without the rabbit scarf. Selyse comes from the
reach and while her family sigil for House Florent is a red fox on an ermine
background, she wears neither furs in her clothing. So upon closer inspection we
can see that Selyse wears a Baratheon stag ring on her ring finger and here
we see a linen shift underneath. I find this to be very similar to the Starks.
We also get a glimpse of the Baratheon of Dragonstone sigil on her
gown. Here’s a close-up that I found of the embroidered crest and I’ve taken it
from Michelle characters website. Princess Shireen’s monochromatic
clothing appears to be homespun and again not necessarily befitting a
princess but given that she is hidden away, her mother Selyse is devoutly
religious and she doesn’t dote on her in the least. She would most likely be
given something simple and more practical style clothing so her clothing
like the Starks is most likely locally sourced it’s dyed and handcrafted made
from things like cotton linen and wool and here’s a close-up look at the fabric
of her jacket you can see it just got like this really very subtle texture to
it. Shereen wears this woolly capelette with
a little stag closure just before her short life comes to an end. And in Greek
tragedy fashion, her mother Selyse hangs herself offstage. Here is one of Michelle
Clapton’s initial designs for Dany. She kind of looks like her brother Viserys
in the sketch. This costume looks most like the dress that we see in the first
teaser and according to the sketch, Michelle Clapton has original had
originally intended Danny’s cape to be lined in fur or sheep and it also has a
Nehru collar which Clapton only uses on her fourth look as you’ll see a bit
later. Clapton says of her new look for season 7, “She’s this figure head
of her army. I wanted her to be able to stand in front of the unsullied and to
be their leader.” The rigid collar is Cobra shaped – a
throwback to her earlier Meereen costumes in Essos, not dragon per se but reptilian
of none-the-less. Clapton says about Danny’s lack of a
crown in a recent Uproxx interview, “She can’t have a crown,
she hasn’t conquered yet. But I love this idea of this chain of intent. I think
it’s quite interesting that we finally see her embracing her brother’s ambition.
you’re seeing the beginning of something. We’re not at the end yet and I think
it’s very important at this moment that we start seeing who she is.”
Here’s an actual Cobra so that you can see the shape that Michelle Clapton was
going for with the collar in these close-up shots. I’ll admit they’re not the
greatest but I have a better idea of what is going on here. So what initially
looked like a tweed is actually a silvery gray black scaly reptile like
fabric that has been brushed with some red paint. As I mentioned before the
texture of the cape it’s a flat chevron pleat and the skirt is sunburst pleats
which are done by British pleaters Ciment pleating. And finally, the bespoke
silver chain or custom chain there is a hidden loop that holds the cape up.
Michelle Clapton might have commissioned that from Eunice and Eliza, I suspect the
British jewelry designers who created all of Danny’s jewelry from season six.
It’s a head three-headed dragon with a chain perhaps vertebrae or skulls but
it could be teeth so if you want to let me know in the comments below what you
think it is I’d appreciate that. Here’s another outfit I already
addressed in the other video from the HBO promo I mentioned that this
asymmetrical style is asian-inspired and clearly influenced by the series whose
clothing is Targaryen as opposed to Danny’s first look which is a Pentoshi
look. Here’s another image of Viserys: this Targaryen garment is charcoal black
with just a few touches of dark red – it’s almost burgundy red. You can see how
Dany has been influenced by this look. Viewer Paige Lesetemari pointed out to
me that Dany’s new costume reminds her of Mongolian riders and I’d have to say
that I agree with her. So here’s a picture that she provided me the one on
the left of the couple dressed in Mongolian Deel. It’s a traditional
caftan [kaftan] or tunic made from cotton, silk, or wool or sometimes brocade and as
Paige points out the man’s collar and cuffs are trimmed in fur while the ones
we saw of Dany’s are actually lined in fur but you can definitely see how
Michelle Clapton might been influenced by the Mongol people.
The deel on the right shows the sheep sheep wool lining instead so Paige also
says that Dany might have chosen this style of clothing as homage to Drogo
since the Dothraki are based on the Mongolians. I’m going to get more
into the Dothraki in my future video. Dany’s third look is this of it so it’s
an amalgamation of all her outfits. The collar is Targaryen with the
Japanese right over left collar with a cobra shaping. All of her collars are
rigid and and somewhat armor like. The dress itself is a more modest Qartheen
look with no cut outs or bare skin and it’s got the empire waist with two
skirts slit which are inspired by the indian Kurti. The long hanging
sleeves and she’s been wearing those for the last two seasons in case you hadn’t
noticed and she has fitted sleeves now of course because it’s getting colder.
Dany’s Japanese inspired clothing also reminds me of this samurai wearing an
ensemble which is known as a Kamishimo which is a style a
popular that was popular during the Edo period in Japan. His outer garment is
what looks like shoulder pads is called a Katageno which kind of again
reminds me of her Cobra style collar that she wears. Dany wears trousers
and suede boots. They’ve always been slightly darker than
the dress itself and Michelle Clapton has made it this way since the beginning
for a quick getaway but also so Danny can ride those dragons and not getting
chafed. In this close-up you can see that Dany
is wearing her mother’s ring. There is lots of embroidery here.
Michelle Carragher has covered the bodice with a red feather stitch, dragonscale
smocking and these metal fasteners here that kind of look like dragon claws. And
it’s important to note that while the Targaryen colors from their family’s
sigil are black and red, Clapton hasn’t gone full-blown
and I think if she does I suspect that she’ll hold back until we get to the eighth and
final season. If you’re looking for a suitable fabric to create Danny’s recent
look I found this lovely reversible silk double cloth from mood fabrics in New
York City that I think might work nicely and it has textures flubs on the one
side and a plush twill on the other side which could be used after the lining. In
these close-ups you can see that the embroidery wraps around the cape sleeves
and the feather stitch continues down the seam of the fitted sleeves and
spills out onto the on to the cuffs. You can see the Dragonscale smocking applied
to the sleeve in a matching fabric. On the collar are a series of red ruby and
pewter beads that create the dragon scale texture. By the way, costume
embroiderer Michele Carragher has said on her Facebook page that her first port-of-
call for embroidery threads and beads is the London Bead Company in London
England. I’ll leave the link in the description below so that you can also
purchase this very same embroidery floss and Myuki seed beads that she uses on
Dany’s creations, that is if you’ll be in London. Here is a fourth look for
Daenerys, a textured silver Qartheen style gown with a stand-up Nehru style
collar. So the hourglass shaping it comes from these princess seams and you can
really see how small Emilia Clarke is in this dress. The underskirt again is
sunburst pleated and the sleeves have a really nice lacing detail and she’s
wearing her three-headed dragon pin without a chain or it might be a completely
separate piece, I’m not sure exactly. And one final thing I will add is that the
opening has moved away from the arch it – used to be sort of a curved shape and
now it is shaped more hexagonal like the stone floor in the throne room so I’m
not sure if that’s coincidence or if it’s something more symbolic. The Reach
ruled by House Tyrell of Highgarden is one of the constituent regions of the
Seven Kingdoms. It is the most fertile and heavily populated part of Westeros
helping supply other less fertile parts of the seven kingdoms including King’s
Landing. The reach is also one of the richest regions second only to the
Westerland’s ruled by House Lannister. House Tyrell of Highgarden is one of the
great houses of Westeros. The Tyrells rule over the Reach from their castle
seat, Highgarden. I mentioned in another video that while the Lannisters dress in
red like the Capulets in Romeo and Juliet, the Tyrells who wear their rival
family dress in blues and teals mixed with gold. The Tyrells have to show their
wealth and opulence through their clothing wearing exquisite imported
floral fabric brocades, luscious silk velvet and dupioni silk fastened with gold and
bronze cloths and fasteners and decorated with a bronze casting of their
family sigil the Tyrell rose I have a dedicated video to the costumes of
Margaery Tyrell if you want to check that out so I’ll leave a link in the
description below for that maze Tyrell the family patriarch and former head of
house Tyrell a little bit of a buffoon and looking a bit like The Wizard of Oz
I might add dresses in Renaissance style finery silk jacquard Jerkins and doublet
mace wears elephant closures on the right outfit and I’m not sure what the
significance is there although considering their garments are made from
imports it’s possible that they are a Far East export and one little detail I
love here is that maces cravat is folded are a sort of origami style into a rose
we first meet maces son and heir sir Loras Tyrell
a popular jousting turning knight in Westeros in season one he is commonly
known as the knight of flowers wearing full clean armor elaborately engraved
and embossed the flowers from his family sigil
in reality however there was a great difference between the weight of battle
armor versus justing armor so just to give you an example a complete set
a suit of well tempered steel plain armor would weigh around 15 to 25 kilos
while specialized jousting armor produced in the late 15th to 16th
century could weigh as much as 50 kilo. Loras’s house and shield are both
decorated with his family sigil and you’ll notice the shield has a knot or
mouth cut out of it and this is to accommodate than Lance so that it can
pass through here Loras wears battle armor under the banner of Renly
Baratheon and his plate armor is still decorated with flowers but it’s just a
lot less ornate and shiny he also wears brass a brass mail hauberk and gorget.
Loras has very fine clothing by the way and you might even say that he dresses a
little bit like a Victorian dandy. Many of his shirt sleeves are gathered
with what’s called honeycomb smocking like these two seen here. I haven’t
seen this technique on any other character with the exception of Dany’s
Dragon Scale smocking with this type of detail so unlike his father whose
sleeves are capped with wings, Loras’s are highly textured his highly textured
jerkins have extended shoulders instead and he wears a rose brooch on his jacket
for Margaery’s wedding to Joffrey but I’ve seen him in other scenes wearing it as
well. You can’t see it here but in a behind-the-scenes video featuring the
wedding costumes, actor Finn Jones revealed that his vest is lined with
matching fabric to his shirt which just shows like the amount of detail that
production goes through. Here’s a better look at the detail of one of his shirts.
The fabric is so thin that you can almost see through it. Here’s another
gorgeous look for Loras in this close-up picture on the right is the embroidered
fabric in smocking detail on the upper sleeves and here’s a close-up of the
brass fasteners shaped like little flowers maybe a bit like roses. The widow
Lady Olenna Tyrell, the Tyrell family matriarch is also called the Queen of
Thorns because of her witty barbs and she dresses modestly, befitting a widow
of her age and stature. She wears what looks like a pillbox hat and veil
but taken from the Middle Ages the hat is more accurately called a fillet and
the veil a wimple and on the right you can see the gorgeous beading on the
crown by Michelle Carragher. The Rose from their sigil is also which is also
incorporated often like the applique that we see on her puff sleeves. Olenna
wears a more matronly version of the handmaidens seen on the right opting for
ultimate coverage, choosing gathered full-length sleeves over the crop
sleeves of the young women and shawl collars and her skirts tend to be fully
gathered as well. Unlike Margaery and the handmaidens whose
skirts are all A-lined and notice that the footmen in behind Olenna are dressed
in the same teal blue color Olenna wears. This handcrafted Rose embellishment
attached to her jacket with ribbons, this one is custom made by Steensons jewelers
in Ireland. Pictured here are both Loras’s brooch on the top and Margaery’s
belt on the bottom. Olenna’s is a much more elaborate version of Margaery’s and
according to Steensons’s website it states, “Each individual petal was rolled and
shaped by hand using copper clay. The vine work was formed from brass wire and
a mold was taken from real rosebuds to cast the beautiful silver bud details.”
According to his mother Olenna, Mace Tyrell has never been in battle except,
as Olenna has stated, “All he lays siege to was the banquet table in the command
tent,” so it’s fitting with his oafishness that Mace should wear this highly
decorated and ornamented plate armour. His helm is festooned with large ostrich
plumes and the crown of the helm resembles a rose. It’s not so far-fetched.
In reality, here is the half armor of Phillip I of Castile from the
Royal Armouries Madrid in Spain and according to their website it says, “The
most notable item related to this armor is the unusual helmet which is patterned
after an ecclesiastical beretta or a civilian hat of the period.”
Meanwhile, the Tyrell soldiers wear simple plated armor cuirass and
pauldrons, elbow and wrist guards and I can’t I can’t find any reference to
their shields. They have a sharp angle cut out of them although it might be for
their spears to go through. In this image, the Tyrell soldiers get just a
little protection from their gold hauberks or their shirts over their gambesons
and these kind of weird, goofy knee guards. The chevron construction is
similar to the Knights the Vale breastplates. Horn Hill is the seat of
House Tarly in the Reach. It is located southeast of Highgarden. Its current Lord
is Randyll Tarly, Samwell Tarly’s father. A word of
warning, there will be some snark beyond this point so please enter with caution.
I was out to my recent Q&A what my least-favorite costumes on the Game of
Thrones were and while I said it that it was the Dorne costumes, I have to
actually bump them in favor of the ladies of House Tarly. So the House
Tarly gown seen here on Sam’s mother Lady Melessa and his baby sister Talla
with their short puffed sleeves I think have to be the worst look of the series.
My mouth actually dropped open when I saw them for the first time. With
such care that’s been put into the looks of all the regions by designer Michelle
Clapton I think it’s a shame but these costumes which were designed by season
six replacement April Fairy, look like they’re made from a bedspread or like
vintage curtains or something. So because of the narrow shoulders you
can see that this dress doesn’t sit properly on the actors shoulders and
it’s puckered at the front and I think it’s because of the ridge from her
corset but I’m not actually sure. So Gilly’s dress is just as awful, and
which I’ll grant you might be intentional since the idea is that she’s
borrowed it from Talla so it’s far too tight across the bust and torso and the
sleeves are really short so you know really I actually prefer Gilly’s
tattered Wildling dress. Here is a look at the servants in green and red smock
dresses from the families sigil. Sam’s father Randall Tarly’s costume is
better anything although it looks more like leather armor than a jerkin which i
think is an odd choice to wear at the dinner table although I suppose it could
be hunting Armour since he was out hunting with Sam’s younger brother
Dickon Tarly. Randyll Tarly wears the Tarly sigil on the armor as you
see at the front. Dickon wears a leather jerkin similar to his father’s. Dorne is
the southernmost part of the continent of Westeros and has a harsh desert
climate. Executive producer Frank Douglas says of the kingdom, “It’s a southern
climate. It’s a very luxurious Kingdom. It’s a world of pleasure-seekers so we
went for things that were very loose and very sensual and were also inspired a
little bit by Indian or Persian outfits. So just looking at some of the fabrics
that Michelle Clapton chose they do speak a world of luxury and sensual
pleasure and again that’s a new element for us.” Sunspear is the seat of House
Martell and the capital of Dorne. Michelle Clapton says, “The introduction
of Dorne is something I’ve been waiting for and I’ve been deliberately holding
back on using their colors, the ochre yellow and the wonderful tans. We wanted
them to have a very distinctive look. It’s incredibly important to have those
immediate visual cues to help you as a viewer. it was great to have these two
characters lead into this next season when we’ll be going to Dorne and
have a chance to really push things creatively.” Like many fans of this series,
I was really disappointed at Dorne, the Dorne storyline and sadly
it has tainted my view of the costumes although I will admit that they have
grown on me as time has passed. Before we ever visit Dorne, we meet Prince Oberyn
Martell, sometimes known as the Red Viper. He is easily one of my favorite
characters and I loved what he wore. Michelle Clapton says that his costume,
“Despite the substantial nature of some of the fabrics and the inclusion of
metal sigils, Oberyn’s costumes were in some ways quite feminine. There is
something about the way that Pedro Pascal wore it. His masculinity, his total
lack of fear of the feminine element that made it so strong and deeply
masculine on him.” Ellaria Sand is Prince Oberyn’s lover and mother of five Sand
Snakes. Here is Clapton’s rendering of Oberyn’s armor and on the right is
Ellaria Sand sand-silk costume with and without her cloak. Clapton says of
Oberyn’s look: “it’s quite an Indian feel like cross overcoat. Pedro just
wore it brilliantly because it’s actually quite a feminine look but he wears it in
a really masculine way: big sashes and belts and the colors. It’s also orange
like burnt oranges and yellows and golds. It’s quite fun just to start a look and
then next year we can sort of go into it but I think it will have a big Indian
influence.” The coat on the left, by the way is made from the same Banaras silk
brocade fabric as Joffrey’s aubergine coat that we see in season four.
Banaras brocade is produced in the city of Varanasi in India known as one of the
finest producers of silk brocades in the world.
Here’s a Turkish tunic from the late 16th century that looks similar to
Oberyn’s under tunic. This one is made from silk and metal from the
Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. Here’s an example of an Iranian
coat with some likeness to Oberyn’s coat also from the Met and it’s made from
silk cotton with metallic fasteners from the 18th to 19th century. This style coat
is called an entari – it’s a garment popular during the Ottoman Empire for
both men and women and the entari, unlike Oberyn’s coat, it used no darts or
additional seems beyond the side seams so all the fullness in the skirt is
created by the addition of gores or triangular panels. Here are two portraits
that I thought I’d show you of Mohammad Shah Kjar, he’s the third Shah of Persia
from that rule between 1834 and 1848 and during the Kjar dynasty and in the
portrait on the left he wears a similarly fitted coat like the entari
which we also see on Oberyn. Michelle Clapton says this of creating Oberyn’s
iconic leather armor: “His armor was one of my favorite of all the armors. The
contrast between the weight of the Mountain’s armor versus the lithe, soft
leather covering during the duel is visually very exciting. Giampaolo Grassi [the armor master] and his assistants stamped all the leather with the design
and hand cut all elements being able to talk about it on the dummy, manipulated
around the shape of the body the changes in the ratio of the symbols. It evolved
in the work room and their input is immense.”
Michelle Clapton goes on to say, “I think being part of the process leads to some
of the most creative work. You can make replicas of Roman armor forever
and it can be beautiful but it’s not the same.” As a side note I thought I’d
mentioned that the helmet seen here in the exhibit was never actually worn in
the trial by combat which a lot of fans were actually kind of disappointed a
and while Oberyn is called the Red Viper, the shoulder piece is especially when
you view them from the back remind me of the armadillo inspired Dracula Horseman
costume that is seen in Bram Stoker’s Dracula. That costume was designed by
Japanese costume designer Eiko Ishioka. She actually won an Oscar for that. In case
you’re wondering how they get that awesome texture on the leather they use
this sort of leather stamping tool like the one seen here and they can come in a
variety of textures and be purchased online. Of Oberyn’s mistress, Clapton says,
“Ellaria Sand’s style is very different from anything we’ve previously seen and so
it’s quite revealing and it’s actually sand-washed silk so it has a lovely flow.
It’s almost like a weightlessness to it. There are a lot of Indian influences
particularly with the fabrics we sourced a lot of the fabric for the Dornish
characters in India. I like the sand-washed silks, the weight of it and the depth of
color.” And like Daenerys, Ellaria has these exaggerated scale like collar
shoulder pieces which are most likely I think inspired by the viper. Of Ellaria’s
costume for Joffrey’s wedding, Michelle Clapton says, “I like the
strength of her outfit, being able to lift the cape away to this very simple
sensual elegance, cut to the navel without revealing too much. It’s a very
assertive piece both in movement and in color. I love to think of what Cersei’s
reacting, is when she sees it. After all her daughter is now in Dorne.
Ellaria has a really lovely sort of chained headpiece which I just thought,
my god is such a great look. It’s this thing of trying to find new areas of how
people should look because we’ve obviously done so much now.” The close-up
shot on the right is the work of embroidery artist Michele Carragher
using an assortment of glass beads and brass jump rings and this brocade
shoulder piece is interchangeable with a stamped leather one.
Here’s another sand-silk gown with the matching cape, this one in a beautiful
midnight blue. However, she shows her power with a
little bit of stamp leather cross armor similar to the one worn by Missandei.
Missandei’s armor, it’s a little bit more Cobra like in keeping with Dany’s
clothing as opposed to Ellaria which is more viper like. Again, here is some
beautiful beading detail by Michele Carragher. Here Ellaria wears a diaphanous
silk organza gown in sort of a light pewter gray color. She wears it in season
5 when she gives Myrcella Baratheon a deadly kiss goodbye. Michele Carragher
and her team created the beautiful metallic and ribbon embroidery for all
the gowns worn by Myrcella and the Sand Snakes. Clapton says of the gowns, “The
dresses were beautifully embroidered by my embroider and Michelle as usual but I
wanted it to look like a little pull of a strap and it would just drop to the
ground there was nothing to them, just clouds.” Here is a backlit shot of Nymeria
and Tyene Sand and their silk organza dresses, the unlined gowns completely
see-through. Nymeria Sand’s rose-colored gown has ribbon embroidery. Tyene Sand
wears cross armor similar to the embossed leather armor worn by her
mother Ellaria. here is a close-up look at it taken from Michele Carragher’s
website. Here’s an example of some silk organza – this one in egg-yolk yellow
from Top Fabric in London. Prince Doran Martell was a ruler of Dorne in the Name
of the King. He wears sumptuous Indian brocades like Oberyn and his son
Prince Trystane Martell is Prince Doran’s youngest child. A 2015
fashionista article says, “Trystane’s outfit has a definite Indian inspiration.
The fabrics actually came from India and the costume design team dyed them the
vibrant colors seen here. The large leather belt and chain come from
Michelle Clapton’s personal collection.” Both Doran and Trystane’s coats look like
a slimmer version of the Indian Choga. The Choga is an Indian men’s over
garment brought to India by the Moghul invasion in the 16th century. This
exquisite Varanasi coat seen here it’s in stellar condition considering it
actually dates back to the late 18th century and this display is from the
woven with silk Rockefeller Asian textiles exhibit. The coat is made
from a gorgeous silk and gold wrap thread brocade. Here is Myrcella
Baratheon’s gold gown on display from Michele Carragher’s website. The bra top
underneath is sweet pink, a common color seen on Myrcella. Myrcella gives one of her
many vacant looks while wearing this baby pink gown. I thought I’d point out
that she’s wearing a Lannister pendant. This gown has a more youthful delicate
soft floral embroidery in keeping with her innocence and in another vacant, ‘Why
am I in this show!?’ look for Marcella as this fabulous wardrobe is wasted on her. I
actually think this looks better on the mannequin than on her. Realizing that her
character doesn’t have much longer to live Myrcella pulls out this teen angst
look all the while wearing this lovely bias-cut golden gown. Here’s another
perspective on the mannequin. This is what Michelle Clapton said to the
reaction to the sand snakes armor: “They’re sexy, it’s hot weather, it’s a
very liberal society. It looks too B-movie but it’s supposed to be this
rather free place. It’s hot and it’s practical to wear light clothing. I just
like the movement again. They wear suede trousers underneath and boots and I just
like the contrast of the very flowy dresses with really tough bits when you
need to fight. You put the tough armor over.” I didn’t really take too much issue
with these costumes. Of the three daughters, I think Nymeria wore it best.
It’s just a simple silk shift with a hammered leather harness and belt over
top. I like the little sand snake sigil plate seen here. Tyene Sand’s costume it
bugs me a little bit more. I think it’s the additional flap of fabric added over
the tummy. I feel like this was a late addition to hide
your stomach or something but it actually just emphasizes it even more.
Also, her leather cross straps they look warped for some reason. I’m not sure
why. This was my least favorite look but it’s probably due to the casting I think
of Keisha Cassel-Hughes as Obera Sand and you know I adored her in Whale Rider she
but here for some reason she looks like she’s got poop under her nose. Okay, so
Clapton did get a lot of flack for this costume in a scandal that was known as
Nipplegate, where fans of the show thought that the bosom of the leather
armor looked too well-defined. I like these looks a bit better. It kind
of reminds me of Dany’s Dothraki bodice. I’m not crazy about the armor of Dorne
either so the story goes that Michelle Clapton she saw some padded velvet armor
in Florence years ago that she loved and it provided the inspiration for this
look saying in an interview, “It’s built on leather and padding and velvet and we
decided each stud would be a sunburst on a leather piece studded through. It was a
nightmare. I just decided it would be a lovely sensual way of wearing armor. They
were very solid actually, they were very protective.” and just to let you know the
team they had to make about twenty five of these in all. Here are some examples
of this type of armour the Clapton used for inspiration.
So on the left is Indian armored clothing made from layers of fabric
faced with velvet and studded just like the way that they did on the
show and on the right is a reproduction from the Disney movie Haunted Mansion.
It’s an Indian coat of a thousand nails as it’s called and the armor is made
from layers of velvet faced fabrics studded with brass nails.
Just as a side note, fabric armour was used in India in case you’re
wondering as metal turned hot in the Sun so it did have an actual practical
purpose. Here is another example an indian armor-plated tunic from the 19th
century. This embroidered and quilted knee length tunic is decorated in brass
forming a lot of repeating medallions. That does it for this episode in my
series on the costumes of Westeros! I hope that you enjoyed it and hopefully
learn something too, I know that I did. And if you missed any of the other
episodes in this series I will leave a link in the description below so that
you can catch up. We’re just days away from the new season I’m so excited
and beginning the week of July 16th I’m going to do a weekly show review for all
seven episodes of season seven. Like always, thank you for all of your awesome
comments, please keep them coming and if you like what you see here please
like and subscribe to my channel so you don’t miss a thing. Thank you so much for
watching!

78 Replies to “The Costumes of Westeros Part IV (House Baratheon, House Tyrell, House Martell) Game of Thones #13”

  1. House Martell. Also known as "How to make a man in an orange silk kimono style coat look amazingly masculine."

  2. Really love your work! These are so detailed and you can really see the time invested in each. I loved the comparison between Dany and her brother, so neat! And I also think there could be a lot of symbolism with her and the Mongol-style outfit, and their conquest of most of Asia and their almost Dothraki-style fighting. I also loved the snark in this video, haha! Glad I wasn't the only one who disliked the Tarly outfits!

  3. thank you for such interesting videos! as a fan of everything GOT, it's getting harder to find original material being discussed. this is whole new take on the show and I appreciate you.

  4. I have the strange feeling you didn't like the actress of Myrcella….:D 😀 awesome video as always can't wait for your weekly reviews 🙂 by the way your background music is really nice 🙂

  5. AMAZING VIDEO! I am so hyped for the next season!
    So your reviews will be about the costumes or the episode itself?

  6. i think they made the tarley gowns so awful just so you could call them awful plus we viewers of game of thrones had to know that we were entering the world sam got out of and that his papa is a jerk lol in one word a CLUMSY world

  7. Between the architecture of Horn Hill and the costumes worn by the Tarly ladies, I felt like Sam and Gilly had accidentally landed in a Romeo and Juliet movie. I half expected the guys to be strutting around in tights.

  8. Agree about the Tarly look. It seems, dare I say, lazy in comparison to other houses. Perhaps it's because they would only be featured for one episode and were therefore a lower priority.

  9. Thanks for putting up such a spectacular video. It's a feast for the eyes as well as a treat for the mind.

  10. I get the impression that the Andals look at the Dornish as a bunch of greasy, oversexed buffoons. The Sandsnakes cornball behavior makes me feel we're looking at them from that angle. lol.

  11. I just discovered your channel and finished binge-watching your GOT videos yesterday and was excited to see this new one pop up!
    In the books, Catelyn notices that Renly has the money to make his sigils and such look gold, whereas Stannis could only afford a cheap yellow. You can kind of catch it in the show.

  12. You are so right about the Tarlys! I didn't mind so much watching the show, but now that I am reading the books and realizing how influential the family really is, I would expect more. "Girly" is good, cheap "curtains"…not so much.

  13. It looks like you didn't link the London Bead Company in the description (or I am very, very blind). Great video!

  14. Hahaha love the cheeky bits about the casting and facial expressions! I agree with you haha! Once again, thanks so much for the upload and hard work!! Truly beautiful work, I always wish we got to see more embroidery and detail of the costumes/character pieces on the show

  15. Dorne is my absolute favorite place in westeros and I love house Martell. I am so in love with their outfits except for some armours abviously. Tristane and Doran look absolutely amazing in their costumes and like all fans I'm super pissed at d&d on how the dornish are portrayed.. Fantastic video btw. keep up the good work!

  16. I've always been interested on the costumes of the brides of Dracula in van helsing do u think u could make a video about them, I would really appreciate it thank you 😊

  17. Actually, Sandsnakes armors aren't practical at all, unless they're looking for sun burns. Same problem with Dothraki costumes, especially on pale-skinned Dany.

  18. Hey! Love the concept of this videos! You should do some of these type for the series The White Queen and/or The White Princess!!!

  19. Horn Hill is really close to Highgarden so you'd expect House Tarly's costumes to at least slightly resemble the graceful and ostentatious costumes of the Tyrell's….

  20. I think the Tarly costumes might have been intentionally awful, in order to emphasize that the head of the house is a domineering, misogynistic jerk. All of his attention is on his son and on manly pursuits, so I think the ladies of the house might have a hard time of getting money from him for proper and nice fabrics befitting of their stations so maybe they have to improvise sometimes (maybe using leftover materials from curtains and bedspreads, because it's either fabric for those or for dresses, but not both), for hiring seamstresses so they have to make their own gowns, and maybe Talla's gown was ill fitting, because she is still growing and she just doesn't have enough clothes to accommodate it (she might make a gown intentionally bigger, so she can wear it for a longer time). Really, you can read so much into this. 🙂

  21. a channel with +20min videos about costumes, heaven is real

    also it's probably no coincidence that they chose the german burgonet as inspiration for the baratheon soldiers, as i read that the stormlands are fashioned after germany – i don't know if it's true though, i got that from a map floating around somewhere that assigns real countries to westeros

  22. I find it extremely disturbing that they 1) use real fur and 2) use so insanely much of it. The costume designer said she "tried" fake fur but it just didn't look right…. I'm sorry, but it's a freaking TV show. It is not worth thousands (yes, apparently 40,000 per season) of animal lives just to make some costumes for a TV show look SLIGHTLY more realistic on some people's HDTVs.

  23. My god you do a lot of research. Super impressive. Why were people disappointed about the Dorne story line? I haven't read the books, so maybe I'm missing something?

    Can you put the quotes up on screen by any chance? Sometimes I can't tell when the quote ends and it's your opinion? Otherwise perfection!

  24. I agree with you, I am also disappointed on how the way Dorne is portrayed in the show. They have such an amazing role in the books, and Arianne is a POV character. I guess the show is just biased.

  25. I loved everything Oberyn wore but I was far less fond of Ellaria's costumes. The spiky shoulders just didn't do it for me and I thought that dress she wore for the purple wedding was awful. She's a Sand but she's also the daughter of a Dornish lord. She wouldn't show up so bare-chested like that to a Westeros event. And, why cover the actress' beautiful hair with that Joan of Arc-looking headdress? Meanwhile, I didn't mind the gowns of the Tarly's. I mean, when the ill-fitting aspects are pointed out, I can see them now, but I didn't think anything of them, at the time. I was more impressed with how Sam's mother and sister stayed such warm people when they had to live with the brute that is Sam's father.

  26. Thank you for these super informative costume discussions. I love how we get both lessons in costume design and history!

  27. hi!! love your videos, been watching them all day lol could u please do for the series mad men? Their costume work is impecable and super accurate imo

  28. Does anyone role you you are awesome? I always liked looking at the costumes in GoT, but your vid arę just mesmerising and my view of this little pieces of clothes is totally new. Keep it going! You got yoursef a new subscriber

  29. Wow, Selyse's Baratheon Stag ring would catch on EVERYTHING! Would drive me nuts!!!
    Shireen's Jacket – that you described as having a subtle texture – is, I'm pretty sure, a knitted felt. I think it's a cable-knit, about 6-ply, then lightly felted (maybe medium felt, definitely not a heavy felting, as that would be really stiff).
    Have a look at it close up, I'd be interested in what you think.
    Dany's chain is glorious, to me it looks like tail vertebrae (vertebrae without facet joints). Additionally, the dragon pin that holds it up looks very much like the three-headed dragon pins she wore in the first series (on the 'viewing dress', and the wedding dress).
    Note about Dany's costumes – might be an idea to include 'Targaryen' in the video title…
    Interestingly – what you call 'sunburst' pleating, in Australia, is called 'Sunray pleating'. Also, if anyone in Australia needs pleating, Specialty Pleaters in Melbourne have been around forever and are really good (www.specialtypleaters.com.au)
    Also, what you call 'Dupioni' silk, here, is called 'Dupion' (no 'i' on the end)!
    Oberyn Martell's coat is amazing – although when I first saw it I thought it looked a bit like a silk bathrobe! I am wondering whether the embroidered sigils are hand embroidered or machine? I think they look machine-done, but wondered what you thought?
    The cross-armour on the sand-snakes is interesting – I wonder whether it's worn in lieu of a bra, since wearing a bra in those see-through dresses would be unflattering. I wonder whether Ayine (sp?) and her Mum have the cross-armour because they are bigger-busted than the other girls and need it?
    One thing I noticed with Myrcella, which has annoyed me with other characters before is that the hairdressers seem to brush this incredibly long hair over amazing embroidery!!! There's literally MONTHS of embroidery and they cover it with 'I just undid my plaits' hair!!!! OMG!!!
    The padded leather armour for Dorne would have been so damned hot in the Croatian sun – I don't know how they stood it! Wow, those costumes must have stunk to high heaven by the end of a few days shooting!!!
    That's it for my comments for this vid!! lol

  30. Thank you so much for your videos…I never really noticed all the details on the costumes, especially not the beautiful embroidery. So thank you for opening my eyes, I will definitely pay more attention to details while watching the show 🙂

  31. The rubies on Dany's dress could be in homage to her brother Rhaegar, who's armor was decorated with rubies.

  32. I hate how every time something to do with Dorne comes up, people have to mention how much the Sand Snakes sucked. Its done. Get over it. And Myrcella is a sweet, innocent person who actually had some subtle sass. The vacant look suited her. Pity she is dead.

    My opinion: I didn't like that they didn't get to have Doran make that awesome Targaryen speech. Perhaps they just wanted to piggyback on Oberyn's awesomeness or rush through details, show Dorne made the father and son look a bit like Tommen, which is not Dornish at all. If only they added that little bit there, it would have changed the look of the Dorne plot a whole lot despite the notable absence of Arianne Martell.

    But I liked the Dornish costumes the best in the show, second to Dany's black costumes Season 5 onwards. Perhaps it is because I am Indian or perhaps simply because I can compartmentalize things but I loved the outfits. The only bit that bugged me a bit was the yellow armour in Dornish heat. It seemed alright in King's Landing. I prefer lightweight leathers like Oberyn's much more.

  33. the costumes of ellaria martell with the strong shoulders remind me of burka (caucasus), worn by men in Caucasus (duh). I really had to search the name of it, as I only knew how it looked. What do you think? What could be other historical influences on such structured and sharp shoulders? Or is it a more contemporery fashion influence?

  34. Very cool! Although I'm really not into costuming at all…you have a great eye! Very keen to spot all of this stuff!

  35. Please PLEASE never say décolletage EVER again!! I know it sounds french but it is not. The correct word, and make my ears BLEED like in crimpson peak. The real french word is décolleté. 🙂 otherwise please continue!! Your videos are very interesting!! The details you give are really amazing, and I love the reference break down, It's so obvious once you say where it comes from, and you explain it so well! thank you !

  36. your videos are just amazing. please make a patreon account so I can support your work! You clearly work very hard on each video

  37. I'm biased , cause a) I'm Indian, b) while reading the books, I always felt that Dorne was more India and less Spain (contrary to what GRRM said) and c) I love Myrcella. I'd definitely steal her wardrobe!

  38. the costumes worn by the tarly women is symbolic that the tarly household is male dominated chauvinist household. Thats why anything which requires dainty hand or craft wisdom is avoided. i dont think sam tarly's father pays much allowance to the tarly women to dress up and visit neighbouring lords and ladies hence such shabby designs

  39. i love oberons costume . I wish Indira vermas costume could be more of traditional and archaic patterns and prints …but its all plain fabrics. The exposure of cleavage and elaborate head dress can be seen in temple sculptures of dancers

  40. When I see the Tarly costumes I also hate them, that weird 19 century silhouettes just dont fit in the Game of Thrones world! But then I started thinking that maybe they wanted to show a "Ahead of Time" feeling like they do in the Bravos costumes or in the renacentist atmosphere of the Citadel, that for economic , religious, or intelectual reasons are a little more "advance" ,just like happened in Euroupe fashion in the protestant countries. What do you think?

  41. Dorne "armor" visually looks more like the battle dress of Persian (Achaemenian) Immortals circa 500 BC, color choice and light design suitable for desert warfare.

  42. While I'm not a fan of the Dornish costumes either, I actually like the metal sigil-embellished velvet of the Dornish armor. It would be amazing on a leather motorcycle jacket.

  43. Hmm yeah the tarly costumes look pretty dumb…
    but actually i think ellaria's dorne coats look really good on her but i guess it might also due to the actress.
    But anyways, thank you for all the great effort you make for your videos! It is so interesting to know more about the designs for game of thrones especially region related. Amazing designs and amazing videos on your part. Greetings 😉

  44. That work of research you do about costumes is amazing! I definitely should pay more attention to the tiny details everywhere on the costumes. Maybe Selyse's messy hair is meant to make her look neglected and half-demented. She was indeed a very damaged woman, just like Lysa Arryn. Why the seven hells don't you have more subscribers? You do a tremendously good work.

  45. I’m not sure how invested in video games you are but that would be awesome! I would love to hear your knowledge and opinions from things like final fantasy or definitely Skyrim or other TES games armor and costumes.

  46. My opinion; Olenna tyrell also has a persian noble woman look to her with how she is dressed up and down.

  47. For a character that didn't get a lot of time I loved Myrcella's Dorne costumes, such a shame her character was wasted on the ludicrous Sand Snake arch

  48. I loved what you said about Oberyns attire. Sometimes, you can wear an attire and it makes you feel like very different person. This is particularly true for uniforms, be it military or civil. It works on a subconscious level to the point that e.g. extras aggregate to similarly dressed ones even without knowing each other.
    Then there are attires that make you feel really awkward and that feeling is often asymmetric:
    Men have much more issues donning more feminine attires, even if those are period pieces that are 100% historically accurate (more dress like, colourful…). Women on the other hand rarely have issues dressing up like men. Similarly, we expect foreigners to dress like us, but would feel terribly awkward in their attire, even if we lived there for an extended period of time….
    Then there are attires that represent a lifestyle, thus dressing up as a rocker, punk or goth may look terribly off on you, if you don't ressonate with it.
    PS: I was so annoyed about modern raincoats that I searched long and hard to get myself a 1920s attire of gaiters, long, water-resistant coat and feodora. It works so much better and feels very different, but it took me quite some time to get used of standing out… Similarly, my mother once visited me, but didn't expect such cold weather and she had nothing to wear on her head and thus I improvised a turban for her, which was really funny, especially considering that she's not too fond of muslims…

  49. It's funny to see this kimono style everywhere:
    Kontusz (Poland, Cumans, Tatars)
    Entari (Iran, India)
    ? China
    ? Korea
    Kimono, Gi, … (Japan)

  50. I don't care what anyone says, I think Mace Tyrell's armor looks great. It not as awesome as Loras' armor, but still very impressive.

  51. Of all the captivating videos you created, this is my favorite to date!
    You are doing a fantastic job of illustrating, capturing and sharing the look, quality and amazing work involved in these creations.

  52. Geez! You all should have seen Jaime's reaction when he saw Mace Tyrell coming in on the horse in that affected solemn manner and that flowery armour. I laughed my ass off!!! Olenna was so right about her son Mace. He was only fit to lay a siege to the banquet table. I think he wore that same armour even when he attacked the food on the banquet table.

  53. I thought the dresses worn by the women of House Tarley were intentionally made to look unattractive and ill-fitting, as if to denote the character of the household. If not, I amazed they were approved for the scenes.

  54. Olenna's fancy hats and jackets always reminded me of what the old ladies wear at an old-fashioned church I used to go to. Her personality would probably leave a lot of their jaws on the floor though. I hope to be that sassy when I'm her age.

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