The Paletot Coat

The Paletot Coat


Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette and
today we discuss the paletot double-breasted overcoat that should be part of every man’s
wardrobe. In detail, we discuss what the paletot is,
its history, the characteristics, and how you can wear it well. If you’re a longtime reader of the Gentleman’s
Gazette, you know that we have dedicated articles to overcoats and so we decided to add corresponding
videos. If you want to check out the old series, head
over to our website here. The term paletot is derived from the Roman
word “Palla” which was a Roman great coat. Later, the Spanish invented an overcoat called
palletoque which was similar to a frock coat and had vertical seams. During the 18th century, the French developed
the word paletot as an umbrella term for all kinds of overcoats and top coats. In the 19th century, the paletot was an overcoat
with some form of waist suppression, sometimes more and
sometimes less, but eventually it evolved into a term for any kind of overcoat worn
in town. Generally, it was closer fitting to the body
than many other overcoats which meant it could be worn without a jacket or waistcoat underneath. It was sometimes fastened by a fly and the
buttons could reach all the way down to the hem, that’s definitely not a style you see
anymore today. Generally, a paletot had a flat back that
means no belt, no pleats, no folds or vertical seams. Occasionally, you see a gentleman with a paletot
with a back slit but that was generally quite short. About the turn of the 20th century, the British
considered the paletot to be any kind of fitted waist suppressed overcoat or top coat. The Americans further stipulated that it was
about ankle length and it had a flared skirt or bottom. In 1920s, the Chesterfield overcoat became
more popular and it had a single-breasted fly front, to learn more about that garment,
please check out the guide here. At around that time, it became more popular
to use the word paletot only for double-breasted overcoats so there was a clear distinction
to a Chesterfield which was single-breasted. So when we use the term paletot, we always
mean a double-breasted overcoat with some waist suppression and a peak lapel. So what are hallmarks of a paletot? Typically, you have six buttons and double-breasted
configuration meaning a six two so you have six buttons two closing buttons and the top
ones are typically spaced wider apart. That being said, you can also find paletots
that are in a four one button configuration with just four buttons and one closing buttons
but again, the top row of buttons is spaced further apart. The paletot resembles the look of the old
school frock coat which is not really worn anymore today unless you are really into reenactment. Frock coats, particularly body coats, they
fit much closer to the body than the paletot and they have different seams including vertical
seams and buttons in the back. In the 30s you can sometimes see a paletot
with a waist seam in the front but not in the back. In order to create a fitted silhouette, a
paletot always needs side seams or darts that bring in silhouette on the sides so it’s very
flattering in an hourglass shape. The number of pockets on a paletot can vary
but typically, you see two flap pockets on either side sometimes they’re slightly angled
for a more debonair or avant-garde look. If any of this terminology in terms of pockets,
lapels, buttons, or anything else is new to you, I suggest you check out our guides in
suit lingo which explain all the differences in details. Now in terms of color choices, a paletot typically
comes in darker colors such as Navy or grey but you could also make it in green yellow
or red. Likewise, the length is not set in stone and
typically, everything is considered to be a paletot that is more than knee long and
to about ankle length. That being said, in this day and age, it probably
looks best to have something that just reaches slightly below the knee, otherwise, it looks
more dated. If you decide to go with a bespoke paletot,
you can decide how wide the lapels are, how high the buttoning point is, how big the pockets
are, and anything else that you want to have in your overcoat. That being said, one of my favorite features
is a contrasting velvet collar because it really changes the entire look and feel of
the overcoat. Velvet sparkles differently in the light so
it’s not just the collar that sets it apart but also the texture of the fabric. So why do we think every man should have a
paletot in their wardrobe? Basically, it is a simple overcoat and if
you have it in a dark navy color, you can wear it to any kind of business event, you
can wear it for a funeral, as well as weddings, or black tie or even white tie events. Yes it’s navy and not quite black but in an
evening setting, it works just fine and it’s just one coat that has the widest use case
scenario. So if you don’t have a lot of money for overcoats,
I suggest you invest in a paletot first because you could wear it all the way from your formal
occasions down to more casual occasions. In a plain color, it works with all kinds
of pattern suits such as houndstooth, small checks, as well as pinstripes. On the flipside, if you wear a lot of solid
suits, I suggest you invest in a slightly textured paletot such as this one here, which
contains calls of grey, black, and blue in a very small pattern so from afar, it looks
more like a solid grey overcoat but if you come up closer, you’ll see that it’s slightly
different and it sets off the solid plain texture of your suits. That being said, I could
also wear this on top of a stroller suit, for example, or a morning coat ensemble. One way to even enhance the use case scenario
of your navy paletot is to add a detachable fur collar because that way, it’s even more
evening appropriate and it keeps you a lot warmer even during very cold winters. If you add a fur collar to any overcoat including
a paletot, you really change the look dramatically and it almost looks like an entirely new garment. Because the paletot is double-breasted, you
get two layers in front of your chest which keeps you warmer in the winter. If you wear a lot of classic casual garments
such as cardigans or maybe tweed coats, I suggest to go with a paletot with a textured
fabric because that way, it can be easily worn with any kind of tweed coat. The paletot today still has a plain back which
is ode to the town heritage. Overall , it is a very classic simple and
sophisticated overcoat that will never disappoint. Especially if you’re starting out, I think
it’s a great choice and you can always add coarser tweed overcoats later on but in the
beginning, it makes sense to have one overcoat that works for you in many occasions. For example here I’m pairing a paletot with
a classic pinstripe suit in navy and black Oxfords. Alternatively, I could also wear it with a
grey flannel suit or a Glen check flannel suit. Of course, I could also wear it with a gray
tweed suit, maybe green slacks or chinos. It goes without saying that any type of gray
suit or blue suit would work well with this overcoat as well because it has the colors
of blue black and gray incorporated into the fabric. To keep it muted, you’d wear it with black
gloves such as these ones from Fort Belvedere with contrasting red elements that pick up
the color of my scarf. Alternatively, you could go with grey gloves
or in a lighter gray and lamb nappa or maybe something in peccary or you could maybe opt
for something in burgundy or chamois yellow, it’s just a little bolder. Likewise, I think a pair of green gloves could
also look great with this overcoat. In terms of scarves, the
sky really is the limit here. You could wear it with a herringbone scarf
in either yellow or orange. I picked a double sided scarf with a silk
wool blend that has micro patterns printed on it but it could also work with Paisleys
and because you have this kind of dark background, lighter colors work really well in scarves. Of course, I could also wear a lighter silk
scarf for example and maybe a black fedora or a grey Fedora that picks up the colors
in the overcoat. Back in the day, a snap brim hat wouldn’t
have been quite the right hat for town wear instead people would have worn Homburg hats. Today though, if you wear a hat, you’re already
more formally dressed than 99.9% of the other people out there so it works together. In conclusion, the paletot is a very versatile
overcoat that has stood the test of time and you will be able to wear it many years from
now without any alterations or changes. On top of that, it can be combined with most
everything from formal wear down to casual wear and you will always cut a good figure
in it. Typically made of wool or cashmere or blends
thereof, it usually keeps you warm especially because it has double layers over your chest
area. What do you think of the paletot coat and
what items would you wear with it? Please share with us in the comments below
and if you enjoyed this video please give us a thumbs up subscribe to our Channel and
check out our other series about overcoats in the winter as well as suits and anything
else pertaining to classic men’s wardrobe. in today’s video I am wearing the classic
overcoat shape with a black velvet collar and a thicker wool fabric in black gray and
blue. it was made by Chester Barrie in England and
I found it vintage for about a hundred dollars. all I had to do was to let the sleeves out
because it was originally too short I have had this overcoat for about eight years and
it served me very well here I combined it with a double-breasted pinstripe suit from
Ralph Lauren in Navy and I have black Oxfords with a half broguing cap toe medallion and
my tie is yellow and because of that I picked yellow and navy socks so they tie the shoes
together with the pants as well as the tie my gloves I opted for the black peccary gloves
from Fort Belvedere which are cashmere lined and have red X and stitching and colors in
between the fingers so it works well with my black velvet collar as well as the fabric
and the kind of Burgundy scarf I’m wearing here you can find
the scarf the socks and the gloves in our shop here

87 Replies to “The Paletot Coat”

  1. I’d love to wear one of those but I live in the Philippines where the only seasons are hot and hotter

  2. Looks like my Guy Laroche overcoat is a paletot, then! Solid charcoal grey, blend of wool and cashmere, made in Hungary. It reaches down just below my knees and pairs nicely with my tweed sport coats.
    Thanks for the information, Sven!

  3. Funny, I recently had a coat made I now would consider to be a Paletot. Only cost me about 900 Euros, for a service I would call bespoke!

  4. I was waiting for this video since you first mentioned this overcoat in a more general overcoat video you have made in the past.
    In Greek we have the word "παλτό", pronounced "palto", that describes generally the overcoats.

  5. MOST informative! I’ve wondered what separates these styles, and am beginning to consider something like this. I’m often dressed formally, and recently moved to an area with a real winter. I’ve a few nice fedoras, too, which I love … I appreciate the comment regarding “already dressed more formally than 99%”

  6. It is very difficult to find an overcoat with knee length and all of the characteristics of an overcoat unless you are lucky enough to find vintage or go with bespoke (very expensive).

  7. Mon paletot aussi, devenait idéal :
    J'allais sous le ciel, Muse, et j'étais ton féal ;
    Oh la la ! que d'amours splendides j'ai rêvées !
    A. Rimbaud, Ma Bohème

  8. You asked about accessories that we would pair with this coat, I go back to the one thing I feel is constantly overlooked these days, a walking stick or cane. Even before I truly needed one for mobility, I found it to be an amazing accessory for an number of different outfits and occasions.

  9. Very nice video. I hope ypu would sometime make a video where to find all these items. I have been looking for a plaetot coat just like the gray one you are wearing, but I just can't find one anywhere.

  10. What a great, informative review.
    Could you please identify the hat makers?
    The gray one was awesome.
    Thank you very much.

  11. You didn't mention a paletot in tan or camel which is one of my most gorgeous items of my wardrobe and always complimented

  12. When wearing a double breasted waistcoat with a pocket watch, is appropriate to have a watchhole sewn into the middle of the waistcoat? How would you wear this combination?

  13. Hello, Raphael! I learned a lot from you and I'm still learning. I struggle with the combination of black and brown. I know these two colors don't go well together and I'd like to hear from you if they can be combined. I wonder how and when they can be in the same outfit, if they can. I salute you from Romania! 😁

  14. My main work coat is a navy Paletot, large lapels. Today with a navy pinstripe suit, brown brogues and belt, white Pink shirt and heavy silk Hawes & Curtis tie. Beard also nowadays. Feel like the man walking through town.

  15. tbh…. the red from the gloves doesn't even come close to a good match with the burgundy red…… but the rest of the video is exceptional! oh and I think you need to work on you posture… :/

  16. A fine style of overcoat explained, as always in fantastic and engaging detail, Mr. Schneider! I always find it easier to dress more formally in the winter, and any type of overcoat is a must have for any gentleman. Keep the content coming!

  17. Nice video, very interesting on this coat. I usually wear one of my trenchcoats with the liner or my peacoat for colder days. Paired with a burgundy check scarf and leather gloves.

  18. Love the videos. How about one for what gentlemen might wear to a ball game, I'm thinking baseball in this instance. Some suggestions from the Gentleman's Gazette would be most welcome.

  19. Good quality but why the heck take fashion advise from someone who wears clothes out of fashion. I saw a lot of your videos, you couldnt even show up in an office with your style/suits, …

  20. Could you please do a video on detachable collars. I love your videos they have been very helpfull for me and they have changed my whole life for better. Also i would like to see tour of your closet. If there are any gramar issues in this text then please excuse me i am from the Czech Republic.

  21. $ 100.00 for that beauty? what a good acquisition
    On purpose:
    I find the selection of gloves from Fort Belvedere very tasteful, I love the color combinations.

  22. I have Grey gangster Fedora. Can you tell me which colors are more suitable with Grey Fedora? Brown suit, Blue suit, Grey suit… Etc.

  23. My greatest issue this kind of overcoat is the layering. You maybe get two fabric in front of your belly, but up to the neck where your body most vulnerable you didn't got any protection. You maybe have a scarf, but scarf first function to protect the neck, not your chest. So either dated or not, Frock Coat close much more pratical.

  24. Hallo Sven! Ich hätte kurz eine Frage und zwar, kann man eine Taschenuhr auch außen in die Sakkotasche geben und den T-Sicherungsbügel durch ein Sakkoknopfloch stecken oder muss man die Taschenuhr ins Gilét/Weste geben?

    LG,
    Florian

  25. I have seen almost 20 videos of this man he no insulted her looks super uncanny valley (if you don't know it look it up) I ones heard a quote that goes like people in screens don't have hearts I think this applys to this fella very well

  26. Please consider doing a video on how to love like a gentleman. By the way I love your vidoes you are my favourite thing to watch. Thank you for everything.

  27. Hi Sven,
    I got a paletot coat from thrift store but it come with a belt ( it's as long as a trench coat belt).
    I am not quite sure where this belt fit, it waas seperated from the coat. Is it somekind of another style of coat or the store just mistakenly put it there?

  28. I feel informed & curious as to whether my husband wold be game for a paletot instead of his trench for certain events. Thank you!

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