Tying the Pearl Cathy’s Coat Fly Pattern for Pink & Coho Salmon – Ep172 #PiscatorFlies

Tying the Pearl Cathy’s Coat Fly Pattern for Pink & Coho Salmon – Ep172 #PiscatorFlies


Hey ThreadHeads! Darren here welcome back
to another fly-tying tutorial today we’re going to be taking a viewer
suggestion and we’re going to be tying a variation of a pattern that’s popular in
British Columbia specifically on Vancouver Island and this
one’s called Kathy’s Coat Today we’re going to be tying the Pearl version
of this so the original Kathy’s coat was pretty heavy on the pink fly and it’s
primarily for pink salmon and coho salmon and we’re going to be fishing this
late August September October when the runs are coming back in to the
tributaries so there’s a couple different variations we can use or
different substitutions we can use for materials because this one does call for
polar bear and edge bright which are two materials that are a little bit tricky
to find. Don’t forget to leave a comment down below and I’ll get your name
entered into the next draw that I do for some flies fly tting materials and
stickers let’s have a look at the material list and get started all right so let’s get a fresh hook into
the vise so for our hook today I’m going to be using a Mustad S71SNP-DT #4 I’ve seen a couple of these patterns tied on a little bit longer hooks so this hook is
only a 1XL I’ve seen on the 34011 which I believe is a
3XL hook and makes the fly look a little bit nicer so if you do have
access to those or a different manufacturer go ahead and use that we’ve
got some flat wax nylon in a hot pink and we’re just going to tie that on behind
the eye and we’re going to wrap backwards with mostly touching wraps want to try
and minimize any spacing there this is going to make up our body on the fly so for
the tail we’re going to take about three strands of pearl crystal flash if you
want to dress this a little heavier or a little lighter you can just adjust that
so we’re going to take the full strands and we’re going to fold those in half we’re
going to fold it in half once tip to tip and then we’re going to fold that in half
one more time so we’ll end up with 12 strands you know we’ll just cut those
just to make them a little bit easier to handle and when we fold that the second
time that’ll give us our 12 strands and that’s a not too bad for tail density
I’m just going to leave those folded without cutting them for now until we
get them tied in and we’ll just put a loose wrap and or two and we’ll just
adjust the length of the tail there to where we want it and then we’ll go ahead
and we’re going to wrap all that crystal flash down want to try and keep it up on
top of the hook shank and that’ll help keep our body fairly even you can cut
those off near the eye and again you just want to
keep in mind we want to keep a fairly even body as we’re wrapping our thread
here now that we got those secured we’ll go ahead we’ll just cut them all at once next we’re going to tie in our body
material so for this I’ve got some of the baby bug back from FTD (Fly Tyer’s Dungeon) if you have another kind of Scud back go ahead and I think I
mentioned it briefly in the introduction but the original calls for a product
called laser wrap or edge bright if you have that go ahead and use that but so
we’re going to be using scud back because it’s quite a bit easier to find these
days it doesn’t give you quite the same fluorescence that the laser wrap or the
edge bright will give you but it does a fairly good job especially with the hot
pink thread underneath it’s creates a pretty nice end product here so we’ve
just wrapped that on and well again we’re kind of keeping our thread wraps
fairly edge to edge we want to keep that fairly even and we just wrap the scud
back into the back where the tail is now I’m going to switch out threads here if you
don’t want to have a block head you want to keep a pink head don’t worry about
this step we’re just going to wrap on some black 70d UTC and we just want to make
sure that we catch the pink thread underneath before we cut that off and
make sure that you’ve wrapped over top of that pink and that it’s completely
caught in by the black before we start advancing the fly
you want to just be a little bit conscious that you don’t create too big
of a head on the fly and get away from you fairly easily we’re going to go back to
our scut back and we’re just going to start wrapping that forward and we just want
to overlap each wrap slightly and this will give the fly some extra durability
if you want you can add a little but a head cement underneath the wraps
before you put the scud back over and that’ll just kind of give you an extra
layer of durability yeah once you’ve got that secured you can go ahead and give
it a little stretch and trim it off we’ll clean up those tag ends with a few
extra wraps of thread and then we’re going to flip the fly over if you don’t
have a rotary vise just turn it over in your vise jaws but we’ve got a rotary
vise here so we’ll flip that over we’re going to grab another piece of pearl
crystal flash or two and do this one or two strands depending again how thick
you want it I’m just going to use one here and we’re going to double that over see 1 2
3 times and that’ll give us 8 strands on the throat so I like to just double that
over twice and we’ll cut that and then we’ll tie it in and about the halfway
mark we don’t really want that crystal flash protruding past the hook point and
we’ll tie that in with a few wraps make sure that it’s centered on the bottom of
the hook shank and then we’ll pull over the rest and that really makes it secure
so you’re not going to get the individual strands pulling out this way
and we’ll go come in with the scissors and just trim off the other ends and
just as easy as that so one of the last components on this fly is going to be our
wing and for that I’ve got a little bit of polar bear hair here as I said in the
intro if you don’t have polar bear you can use something like bucktail there’s
a fairly good substitute you’re not going to get the same translucent look as
you’re going to get with this polar bear another suggestion would be to use
saltwater yak hair which is really nice it’s got even more translucence than the
polar bear so we’re going to go ahead we’ll cut off a small clump of polar bear hair
and it’s got a lot of nice under fur in here I’m just going to
take that out I’m going to set that aside I’m going to use that for some kind of
dubbing later on so you can add it to an existing dubbing it’s kind of a nice
accent color I’m just going to go through this clump a polar bear hair we’re going to
take anything out that’s really long and just realign it give that hair a little
bit of a wiggle we got some stuff that’s really untamed we’ll just pull it out at
this point I’m going to set that hair right on top of the hook shank and we’re
going to add a couple of wraps a thread just to secure it and once we’ve got
that in place you can go ahead and cut the butt ends of that and I like to put
a lot more pressure near the back of that wing than in the front and that
just kind of helps secure it as well you want to make sure you clean up those
loose butt ends just to make sure that that wing is in there really tightly all
right so one last item that we’re going to add to this flybridge going to add a little
bit of accent to the wing I’m not sure that you completely need this but it
doesn’t hurt so I’m going to take a 1 strand of pearls I’ll flash I’m going to
cut that in half and it just like I tied it in the throat I’m just going to tie this
on top of the hook shank right in the middle of the fly I’m going to match that
with the length of the wing and then we’ll just fold that back after we’ve
used a couple thread wraps and then again you’ve got a really secure piece
of material in there it’s not going to pull out very easily we’ll go ahead and wall
out a whip finish and I like to finish these with either a couple coats of head
cement or in this case we’re going to be using a bit of UV resin we’re going to be
using bone dry and that gives it a nice final appearance
so just grab the bone-dry and make sure we shake that up a little bit before we
apply it and we’ll just put on a thin coat over top of the head of the fly I
just want to be careful you don’t get that into the body and just the heat
generated from the curing process can melt that’s cut back so you just want to
be careful you’re not getting into that we’ll go ahead and we’ll zap that with
the UV light and you can kind of see how nicely the body flores’s under that UV
light it’s kind of a nice contrast between the white wing and the hot pink
body hey fly tyers thanks for stopping by and checking out my flying video if
you enjoyed the video and want to show your support
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to the channel and if you do be sure to hit the bell icon to get notifications
on my latest fly patterns tips and reviews if you have a question or
comment leave a message below you’ll also be entered into the next draw for
some of the Flies I tie and a few stickers until next time this is Darren
saying keep a hook in your vise Cheers

11 Replies to “Tying the Pearl Cathy’s Coat Fly Pattern for Pink & Coho Salmon – Ep172 #PiscatorFlies”

  1. Thanks Gary G for the nudge to tie up this pattern. I don't think I'll be getting to fish out west this year, but I'll tie a few to try out on the Great Lakes this fall. Cheers

  2. Chimo, Nice hair wing, but I feel sorry for Cathy ;o) lol. That reminded of an ad I saw in a magazine. A guy was on an airline and had his tying kit on his lap, he reached over with his scissors to cut some fur from a lady's coat seated in front of him!
    How's the air quality your way? Too bad about that wild fire, it actually made it overcast here last week, I could smell it too. Cheers

  3. Hey I have been watching your different videos for a couple months now and never entered your drawing I hope this is where you do it, I’m not a real good computer geek but here I am

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