Wax print fabrics Savoir-Faire – Dior Cruise 2020 collection

Wax print fabrics Savoir-Faire – Dior Cruise 2020 collection


Our idea is to translate something that is really
part of the Dior heritage, Toile de Jouy,
with the wax technique. That’s the idea.
This is the dream for us. That is Toile de Jouy
tropical garden. With palms
and butterflies. And on the other side,
there is the tarot card. Maybe we can select
some of the little elements – from the book of Anne and see how…
– Yes I asked them… I want something
really bold. Less in the European style. Something traditional, very colourful. For the animals, if you can use this technique. This kind of lion is OK. You can find the parts that work and change the parts that don’t work. I made a mock-up of the Wheel of Fortune. To find fortune,
there are a lot of obstacles to overcome. I’m trying to take the branches
from there to bring them over here. Like that, and now,
I’m going to find the animals. There are tigers, there. Find the tigers,
we did tigers yesterday. The wax technique
is a very, very rich technique, very luxurious and very complex. It takes a lot of steps to
achieve the result obtained here. The drawing is scanned, and reworked. Here, I stylised it
so the colour can go here. Otherwise, if I keep it
like that, it’s blurry. The colour will go in here,
at least we can engrave that there. From this drawing,
we create a negative version. Using this negative,
we can engrave our copper cylinder. The cylinder is covered in wax. The wax will be printed
onto the 100% cotton fabric. I’m going to see
what it’s turned out like I’m going to look at the fabric. That’s what we call
“reserve dyeing”, you create a reserve
with the wax and when you immerse it in a bath of dye, the colour will go
everywhere there isn’t wax. Once the fabric is covered in wax, it is immersed in the indigo dye. The fabric is washed,
so the wax is removed. This wax is recycled
and reused for future printing. The blue is not
a colour, it’s a base dye. Well, it’s a colour,
but we don’t call it a “colour” here. That’s colour there. Once we have our indigo,
we can put colour on it. So, again we have
two cylinders that are engraved and we print classically over the top. This is beautiful. I really love
the red, the blue and the green. Yes. The mix is very beautiful. One yellow… One red and blue. If you mix green…
that’s really beautiful… I love it! When developing the colours, we used the archives
of Maison Uniwax. We scoured the old ranges of fabrics. Waxes are normally treated
with very saturated colours but we returned to earthy shades of khaki, brown and Sienna. It’s so cool!
This print is beautiful! Originally, it was an Indonesian
batik industrialised by Holland, But this batik was changed so much
that the Indonesian market didn’t want it And so it landed in Africa, in a
country that would be later known as Ghana. It was 1890, at the time, the missionaries had introduced
the sewing machine. The Akan people in
this area of West Africa were looking for fine cotton fabrics which were lighter
than the traditional weaves which use cotton
spun and woven by hand. We met Anne Grosfilley. She is an anthropologist
and she explained to us what this textile
means around the world. Wax has always been secular so
you can do what you want with it but it’ll never shock,
it’s never iconoclastic. If you take a traditional fabric
such as kenti, Ashanti from Ghana, Bamileke ndop from Cameroon, these are fabrics which,
originally, have sacred connotations and are reserved for
a particular use, a rite of passage. That is “Wedding Bouquet”,
“Sacred”, “Alphabet”. “If you leave, I leave.”,
“if you leave the cage, I’ll also leave.” The factory’s
designers create a design that is just an ID number,
a series of numbers. And when it comes out on the market,
like here on Rue du Commerce in Abidjan, women see something in the design. And they say to themselves
“that’s going to be Wedding Bouquet” It’s really the support
of the market that makes the design take on an African dimension
and ultimately makes wax much more than a fabric. It’s truly a means of communication, it’s a fabric that
sends messages between women. “Men aren’t grateful.” That is the Swallow, it’s
called “Money, Too, Flies Away”. On some waxes, there are parts that really stand out. Sometimes the wax
splits and the ink comes in to give this slightly cracked effect. That is the charm
of the wax technique. Sometimes there’s a slight shift and that gives
a very textured, very rich effect.

13 Replies to “Wax print fabrics Savoir-Faire – Dior Cruise 2020 collection”

  1. Beautiful and delicate work of art – the craftsmanship is excellent and a unique gift. Truly inspirational; x Stefanie

  2. Dior quoi.. je fan , ma seul prière je veux me retrouvé dans les locaux de Dior un jour pour une formation.

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