WOMD 31 | The Dress Watch Edition Feat. Breguet, A. Lange & Söhne & the Blancpain Half and Half

WOMD 31 | The Dress Watch Edition Feat. Breguet, A. Lange & Söhne & the Blancpain Half and Half


Hello, everyone and welcome to another edition of What’s On My Desk. I was talking to a couple of my viewers via DM’s on Instagram, as well as YouTube and over the phone. Those that know me and they always said to me, “Listen,..” “Your What’s On My Desk, you know, they tend to have themes and so on and so forth.” “What’s up with dress washes?” “It seems like after watching a few episodes, it seems like you’re pretty biased to highly-priced bulky, sporty models.” Well, technically, I’m not. I love all watches and I decided to do this episode and specifically dedicate it to dress watches. And, specifically to those that I would want to wear outside of something big and clunky. Case in point. 😱 I brought the 5327 perpetual from Breguet. I brought a time zone from A. Lange & Söhne. And I brought a half time zone from Blancpain, and I’ll explain that later. I’m gonna start with this Breguet 5327BB, the Perpetual Calendar. Breguet considers this watch as part of their Grande Complication Collection and rightfully so. This is a beautifully executed full perpetual calendar to include the leap year and also a power reserve function. It is an automatic as well. Why do I like this particular watch? Well, for one, I’m kind of biased towards Breguet. To me, Breguet is kind of like the Godfather of watch making. Maybe, because he created the tourbillon 200-some years ago. (In 1795 actually, which is 223 years ago! 👴) But look at the watch. If you look at it, it sort of reminds you of that old-world pocket watch feel. Just the way the dial is designed, just the way the sub dials are placed. And the way everything looks aesthetically it kind of reminds you of again, an old pocket watch. Sort of a vintage look in a modern watch. Second. Look at what they do with their movements. They could have left this movement plain jane. They could have did a plain exhibition back, showed you the movement and we would have been fine with it. But they took it to the next level. Look at the beautifully engraved movements. Look at the rotor. With a signature cut out “B” in a rotor. They didn’t have to do all that but they did anyway, because this is what Breguet does. ⚡ It’s got a deploying buckle. Again, a signature Breguet design. If you look at the watch on the side, you can look at it from afar, you know, it’s a Breguet. It’s unmistakably a Breguet. It’s extremely thin. It’s a 39mm, which is fairly large and extremely comfortable on the wrist, and pretty light for a white gold watch. So when it comes to Breguet, my choice is going to be this particular Perpetual Calendar. Retail price: $70,700. Brand new, expect to pay about 30-35% off retail. On a secondary market you can find this even a little bit cheaper. A couple of reasons: 1. Dress watches are not as hot anymore and 2. It’s a hefty price tag, so the resale value suffers because of that. Next, I’m going to talked about my favorite watch from A. Lange & Söhne. And this is the Lange 1 Time Zone. Now they call it the Time Zone—most manufactures call it The World Time, but this does have the world time functionality along with the second time zone. Your first time zone is on a left at nine o’clock. And your second time zone is at 5 o’clock down on the bottom. AM/PM indicator, world time functionality. This watch is a manual wind and again, look at the beautifully executed movement here. I mean this thing is a hell of a machine. As far as I’m concerned, I talked about this in one of my last episodes, world time function is not exactly the most useful one but at a glance it’s nice to have at least the second time zone there, to quickly remind you what time it is at home or anywhere else you wish to see. It’s got the signature large date at one o’clock, as most Lange’s do. Overall, just a beautifully executed watch. It comes on a Tang buckle and a lot of times I’ve sold these watches, people have actually asked me to put the deploying buckle on. I’m not a fan of deploying buckles. So, I kind of like the fact that it comes on a tang. Now, the button on the left here will change the time zones, and you’ll see that circle sort of going around. Pretty much a very standard way of displaying different time zones around the world, for majority of watchmakers out there. I will say this and again, by no means is this true, it’s just an opinion, but a lot of guys tend to say that A. Lange & Sohne movements are better that off Patek Phillipe— and it’s been an argument that’s been going on forever. I am going to side with those that say the A. Lange & Sohne movements are more impressive than Patek Phillipe and again, that’s just my opinion. Guys, feel free to argue down below in the comments. I like this particular watch for one very reason: It’s size. It’s a 42mm, which is a hefty size for a dress watch yet It’s still a true, true dress watch. Convenience of second time zone, that’s always convenient in any watch not just for this particular one. But most of all, I like this watch aesthetically. I love the way it looks. I like the way it feels on a wrist. I like the way it looks. And I like the fact that I’m wearing something other than a Swiss-made watch. This is the German manufacture. This is one of the few manufacturers out there that are considered to be top-notch outside of Switzerland. Last but not least, I’m going to show you the Blancpain Half Time Half Hunter Case Watch. I call this watch the Half and Half and I’ll show you why in a second. Now, what this is, is a dual time watch, a GMT. It shows dual time zone now. What is a half time zone? Well, it actually allows the wearer to set the time in a different time zone, half hour in advance or behind, in case you are in a time zone, where you are a half hour behind. This watch also shows you the day and night indicator, which you see here. And your main time zone is obviously on the watch itself. And the second time zone is at 12 o’clock. I also mentioned this is a half hunter case now. Now, what is a hunter case? A hunter case is basically a lid. Kind of like a pocket watch. Now, let me open this up and I’ll show you what I’m talking about. So the back of the watch has a lid. It’s exactly it. When you open it, you can see the automatic movement and you can see the machine behind the watch, but that’s what a half hunter case is. A full hunter case would be if you have two lids on the watch. There are certain Breguet’s out there that have the lid on the front, as well as in the back, and that would make it a full hunter case watch. Why do I like this particular watch? Well, the whole half-hour time zone change actually intrigues me as well. And not only that, I just kind of like the name that I came up with on this watch— the Half and Half watch. So, if I ever wear this watch and people ask me, “Hey, what do you have on your wrist?” I say, “Oh, I have the Half and Half Blancpain.” And now that explained why it’s a Half and Half, I’m sure you guys can relay. But again, aesthetically, a pleasing looking dress watch from a major brand. It’s got a deployment buckle on it, that looks like a tang buckle but yet wears like a deploying buckle or a butterfly buckle instead. Actually, I like anything that allows me to play a little more with the watch. Get my hands-on, on it. Whether it’s extra settings or whatever it might be and that’s really why I chose to go with this Half and Half Blancpain. And this is something, I most definitely would wear as well. Well guys, I hope you enjoyed this episode of me quickly running through dress watches that I like and I would definitely wear or would recommend that you guys wear. Last but not least, I’m gonna show you what’s on my wrist and purposely, I decided to put on a clunker sort of to put things in perspective in regards to these dress pieces. And I’m gonna put this watch against these three so you can see what I’m talking about. This is the Hublot Key of Time. I actually spoke about this watch on my last episode. Pretty extraordinary piece. And look at the size difference between the three. If I put—let me just get the biggest one here, which is the time zone and put it next to this guy. Why sometimes I would rather go with a dress watch, just to sort of lighten up the load on the wrist. This Hublot Key of Time weighs more than the three of these watches combined oddly enough. In either case, I want to thank you guys once again for tuning in. I hope you enjoyed this episode. If you liked this episode make sure you hit that like button and subscribe to my channel if you’re already not a subscriber. Last but not least, please share this video with those that you think may enjoy it. The only way my YouTube channel will grow is from viewers such as yourself, that could share the same content with those that you think will enjoy it. I’ll see you guys next time for more watch reviews and other watch videos.

23 Replies to “WOMD 31 | The Dress Watch Edition Feat. Breguet, A. Lange & Söhne & the Blancpain Half and Half”

  1. Wow I didn't even know that time zones coild be the hour ½ .. that's amazing. The watch on your arm looks like a Bentley to me for some reason – Love it – I've seen that one on some other episode of your program, I think?

  2. That Blancpain is beautiful!! I hope you were able to utilize the Hublot to slow the time down and have more family time!! Still mind bending cool!

  3. Great episode. I was going to ask about dress watches myself. I tend to lean to sporty models but think at least one dressy piece should be in a collection.

  4. GREAT post, Roman. I have owned the Patek 5196 (didn’t like it because of the tiny, undecorated movement) and ALS ‘Richard Lange” (loved it but rarely wore it). My current dress watch is a Jaeger LeCoultre Master Control Date, which is a keeper.

  5. It’s good to see Roman presenting great dress watches and yes, Lange is definitely better than Patek, the Datograph is an end game piece with insane attention to detail and quality of finishing, in 5 years, I will probably trade in all my time pieces for ALS datograph and a beater.

  6. Thank you Roman
    Personally, a dress watch for me with no complications, just a 2 hander in a leather strap with no date!

  7. Hi Roman, i always enjoy your videos…could you do an episode on 5-10k watches without Rolex, Omega etc…so the lesser known brands…thanks and keep up the great videos!👍

  8. Good subject. First time I don't like any of the watches. I mean, GREAT pieces, but felt like all of them were trying bit to hard, to crowded dials, and for some reason I'm not a big fun of an asymmetric distribution of the complications… it like they are all scattered over the dial. Still impressed by your Hublot, thou.. Bu the way Roman, I wonder what is your take on the Ressence watches. I love those and will really like to see you talking about them. Thanks for the video!

  9. Great vid , thanks . Any chance to make one like this with some independent brands ? Like Urwerk , DeBethune, etc etc

  10. Great episode Roman. The Lange 1 timezone your favorite huh? Great minds think alike, it is my first Lange, absolutely adore her. And I do use the world time function, as I have to be in contact daily with people abroad.

  11. ROMAN -> Q&A Tuesday QUESTION: First off you are an inspiration and I am thankful for you videos, keep going I am sure your channel and business will grow. Here is the question that will interest many of us beginning out in wheeling/dealing watches. The one part of the process that kills many up and comers is this: You send someone a watch, they claim it is fake or replace it with a fake and send that back to you while stealing your watch. On pretty much ALL platforms (chrono, ebay, forums etc…) there is really no recourse for the seller. Each facet of the game, procurement, clients, maintenance/repair, authentication poses a challenge but not as much what I mentioned before, to the new watch hustler becuase if this happens to you with a couple of expensive pieces it can put you out of business. Any advice? How did you overcome this hurdle ? Much appreciated, hope to hear from you on this.

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